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Username Post: Starter question        (Topic#78144)
Gambitt 
Member
Posts: 158
Gambitt
Loc: Crofton, Kentucky
Reg: 05-09-04
10-16-04 03:38 PM - Post#532284    

I just put a new mini hi-torque starter on my truck. Now the question...how do I wire this? It only has 2 leads...does the purple and yellow wire go on the same post...and the black wire just get left off? Thanks.



 
Gambitt 
Member
Posts: 158
Gambitt
Loc: Crofton, Kentucky
Reg: 05-09-04
Re: Starter question
10-17-04 03:52 AM - Post#532285    
    In response to Gambitt

Maybe I should add that I am using a Petronix unit in my distributor. I searched the forum and found some info on wiring, but not exactly what I have...a new style starter with the pertronix kit. Any ideas?



 
OL'GRUNT 
Senior Member
Posts: 1098
OL'GRUNT
Loc: Camarillo, California, US...
Reg: 01-29-02
Re: Starter question
10-17-04 05:04 AM - Post#532286    
    In response to Gambitt

You really need Hilandr or Vaughn, but I can say this, if the Pertronix needs a straight 12 volt lead, then you won't need any "extra" wires to the starter. (old "run" terminal) Just the 12 volt wire that goes between the "start" term of switch and the "start" term of the starter....

Semper Fi... '87 Corvette '66 Long Fleet


 
Gambitt 
Member
Posts: 158
Gambitt
Loc: Crofton, Kentucky
Reg: 05-09-04
Re: Starter question
10-18-04 11:24 AM - Post#532287    
    In response to OL'GRUNT

One other thing...I am only getting 9.5 volts at my coil when I go to crank the engine...shouldn't I be reading 12 volts there? Thanks.



 
Vaughn 
Member #455 "15th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 18770
Vaughn
Loc: Colorado Springs, CO
Reg: 08-08-04
10-18-04 02:53 PM - Post#532288    
    In response to Gambitt

First the coil question. For a truck with a stock points ignition, the voltage is reduced through a ballast resistor to keep points from burning out so quickly. The capacitor (condensor) is also there to help keep points from burning up too quickly. Now, if you have an electronic ignition you MAY not need to have that ballast resistor in there. The coil will then get full voltage, thus making a hotter spark.

Ok, now the starter. The orginal wiring for our trucks ran the power for the coil down to the starter, then back up to the coil. Part of the reason for that was to eliminate run on after the key was switched off (I think - I don't have a wiring diagram in front of me to be sure). You only need to hook up the wire that is active when the key is in the start position - to the small solenoid terminal. The other wires can be eliminated IF you have already replaced the wiring to the starter/coil with a switched 12v source. If you have already done this, I would suggest you put a diode in the circuit to the coil to prevent possible run-on. If you want to eliminate the wires down to the starter and back to the coil, you just need to find a switched 12v supply (has 12v only when the ignition switch is on) or use the coil/starter wire but remove the ballast resistor.

I'd check with pertronix before removing the ballast resistor to make sure that it is compatible with using a full 12v. Hopefully this explanation wasn't too confusing. If you are still having trouble send me a PM and I'll try to help.



 
Gambitt 
Member
Posts: 158
Gambitt
Loc: Crofton, Kentucky
Reg: 05-09-04
Re: Starter question
10-19-04 01:59 AM - Post#532289    
    In response to Vaughn

Not confusing at all, and I appreciate the help. My truck seemed to be doing just about everything correctly, but I could never get it to start, it would crank over, hit a lick and die...I have been told to replace my plugs as they might have become fouled. Again, thanks for all the help guys.



 
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