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Username Post: Powerglide Fluid Change        (Topic#6339)
glenn61 
Member
Posts: 81
glenn61
Loc: georgia
Reg: 03-15-02
04-03-02 05:29 PM - Post#45220    

When changing the transmission fluid in a '55 powerglide do you have to drain the torque converter housing seperately? or just drain the body? I purchased type A fluid, but found a quart of dexron in the trunk.The prior owner must have used it. Will dexron have a negative effect on the transmissions friction material?



 




tdsoup 
Senior Member
Posts: 555
tdsoup
Loc: Petaluma, CA
Reg: 03-24-01
Re: Powerglide Fluid Change
04-03-02 06:21 PM - Post#45221    
    In response to glenn61

When i changed my PG in my 6 cyl I just drain the case. I understand that there is an opening in the case, more like a 5/8" threaded hole that you can line up with the drain plug for the torque convertor. I haven't done that though. I rely on my "burping" PG to accoount for a gradual change of oil over time.

Not sure of the oil to use. I thought it was Dexron III

[This message has been edited by tdsoup (edited 04-04-2002).]

56 Bel Air Hard Top with 2x4 carb 55 Nomad to be restored :-)


 
Anonymous 

Re: Powerglide Fluid Change
04-03-02 06:58 PM - Post#45222    
    In response to tdsoup

Dexron III and Type A are compatible.

Sorry I can't answer your converter question.



 
bills56 
Senior Member
Posts: 203
bills56
Loc: Burlington, CT
Reg: 02-24-02
Re: Powerglide Fluid Change
04-04-02 01:37 AM - Post#45223    
    In response to

FYI....I very recently installed my 56 PGlide, and checked out the converter and found no drain plug at all!! It is an origional, rebuildable unit, Not sure if all were the same, but I can not drain mine that I know of....

56 Sport Coupe


 
Anonymous 

Re: Powerglide Fluid Change
04-04-02 02:44 AM - Post#45224    
    In response to bills56

There are some converters (bolted type) that did not get the drain plug. Later service replacements were of welded construction, much like the later type Turbo transmissions.

The Type A fluid is compatible with Dexron or Dexron III.

If you wish to flush the fluid and can't access the converter drain port, you can perform the flush procedures.

Drain the fluid and refill to the correct level. Start the engine and let it run for 15 minutes. Repeat this procedure 3 times.

Hope that helps....

------------------
Oliver J. Giorgi
Chevytalk.com Moderator



 
red_57 
Senior Member
Posts: 239
red_57
Loc: ft.worth,tx
Reg: 11-07-01
Re: Powerglide Fluid Change
04-04-02 05:27 AM - Post#45225    
    In response to

Hey Ollie what about using the new flushing procedure that connects to the cooling lines and flushes the entire system while the engine is running? Iv'e used this method on my newer cars seems to work well on later trans. will it be ok on the old cast iron glides? don't want to damage any thing.

------------------
matador red & india ivory 57 bel air 2dr.hardtop - turq & ivory 56 bel air 2dr.post - red 57 austin healey - 69 winkelmann f.f.

matador red & india ivory 57 bel air 2dr.hardtop - turq & ivory 56 bel air 2dr.post - red 57 austin healey


 
brad_bb 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 4260
brad_bb
Loc: Joliet, IL.
Reg: 07-13-01
Re: Powerglide Fluid Change
04-04-02 01:15 PM - Post#45226    
    In response to red_57

I read a CCCI tip half a dozen years ago that was recommending using Type FA in original PG's. Not sure if I still have the article. I put Type FA in my glide but haven't driven it since the rebuild yet.

If someone else can design it, I sure as heck can figure out how to fix it!


 
Coley 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3976

Age: 75
Loc: Milledgeville, IL. 61051
Reg: 11-23-00
Re: Powerglide Fluid Change
04-04-02 07:07 PM - Post#45227    
    In response to brad_bb

Hi, as I remember only pglides before 1955 had any drain plugs in the convertor. Dexron II is fine for them.....

Any man that thinks he is too old to learn new things, probably always was....


 
Anonymous 

Re: Powerglide Fluid Change
04-05-02 02:11 AM - Post#45228    
    In response to Coley

This is a reply to Brad and Red,

Red - using the trans oil pump to flush the trans fluid can be dangerous. Although I have never seen pumps damaged from this procedure, I have heard of it taking place.

The pump output is larger than the input - so you may cavitate it. For this reason, I can't recommend the procedure.

Brad - yes, you could use Type F. The Ford fluid (how'd I get away with saying that around here?) has a different type of "shift shock reducer". It's a well known trick at the Drag strips to use Type F in any of the GM boxes to tighten up the shift. Since you brought this fact up - here is the level of shift shock reducers...

Honda
Chrysler
GM
Ford

Starting with the Honda fluid - it is the "slipperiest". The Ford fluid is the hardest shifting.

Ahhhh, would I use in a Cast Iron Powerglide? Well, considering that she's 40+ years old, I am not sure if the "net gain is worth the short term pain". We know how "loose" these old transmissions are what would we truly benefit from? I am running Mobil 1 synthetic ATF. Other than the occasional "burp" - the transmissions are holding up fine.

------------------
Oliver J. Giorgi
Chevytalk.com Moderator



 
57tim 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3028
57tim
Loc: Cameron, Wi, USA
Reg: 11-09-01
Re: Powerglide Fluid Change
04-05-02 03:36 AM - Post#45229    
    In response to

The power tranny flush is a bad ideal. You are stiring up 45 years of dirt and pushing it out of all the hiding places back into the valve body. I have seem more then one tranny go bad because of this. I'd drain as much out as you can the old manual way and call it good.

------------------
57 Bel Air 2dr Ht
2000 Dakota Quad Cab 4x4

57 Bel Air 2dr Ht
327 700r4
http://www.picturetrail.com/tmneid


 
glenn61 
Member
Posts: 81
glenn61
Loc: georgia
Reg: 03-15-02
Re: Powerglide Fluid Change
04-06-02 05:09 PM - Post#45230    
    In response to 57tim

Thanks for all the help. Didn't think it would get so complicated



 
Robert_May 
Old as Dirt Member
Posts: 6939
Robert_May
Loc: San Marcos, CA USA
Reg: 01-03-02
Re: Powerglide Fluid Change
04-06-02 06:40 PM - Post#45231    
    In response to glenn61

As a hesterical note, the old bolted together converters don't handle the high rpms that a SBC can attain. If you have one, I'd change to a new welded one as anything over 5K rpm can pop them.

Robert May Fat? Eat less and you will get thinner!


 
Mcloud 
Poster
Posts: 61

Age: 65
Loc: NY
Reg: 12-02-14
07-10-18 06:04 PM - Post#2739615    
    In response to glenn61

Can an early, cast iron PG be replaced with a aluminum (1962+) one, and is it a direct bolt-in?

1950 Styleline Special, 216, 3-On-Tree, stock. 1955 Bel Air, stock V8.


 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 27764
raycow
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
07-11-18 02:19 AM - Post#2739655    
    In response to Mcloud

  • Mcloud Said:
Can an early, cast iron PG be replaced with a aluminum (1962+) one, and is it a direct bolt-in?


This is a total change of topic and really needs a different thread. Please start a new thread with the proper subject line, and I promise to answer.

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.


 
56sedandelivery 
Dedicated Member
Posts: 5440
56sedandelivery
Age: 67
Loc: Everett, Wa.
Reg: 02-26-08
07-11-18 09:56 PM - Post#2739755    
    In response to Robert_May

  • Robert_May Said:
As a hesterical note, the old bolted together converters don't handle the high rpms that a SBC can attain. If you have one, I'd change to a new welded one as anything over 5K rpm can pop them.


Yes, but there are some things that will need to be addressed. If the engine does't have a provision for a block mounted starter motor, then you'll need an adapter (about $120.00) for the old bellhousing mount starter, and you'll need a 168 tooth flexplate. If the engine is a 57 and later, then use the block mounted starter and whatever flexplate goes with your starter. But, why an aluminum Powerglide? There are better 3 speed and several overdrive automatic transmissions. My neighbor has his Father's 56, 210, 4 door sedan, with a 327 and a TH-350; stock front engine mounts, the aftermarket bellhousing mount kit, and that's it, no crossmember, the trans just hangs out there like a stock Powerglide or manual trans would. As long as you use a 28 inch long aluminum automatic, the driveshaft won't have to be shortened; you may need to swap slip yokes. Your dash shift display will be different, but there are aftermarket ones made. P-N-D-L-R is the stock detent display until 58, then it changed to P-N-R-D-L, and stayed that way to include the aluminum Powerglide. What engine do you have?
I am Butch/56sedandelivery.




 




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