Gain extra benefits by becoming a Supporting Member Click here find out how!
Classic Performance Products Classic Parts
Ciadella InteriorsAmerican Auto Wire Classic Industries
Chevs of the 40sDanchuk Catalog
Hellwig Products IncPerformance Rod & CustomEcklers AutoMotive
Nu-Relics Power WindowsRain Gear Wiper Systems
Impala Bob's Bob's Chevy Trucks Bob's Chevelle Parts Bob's Classic Chevy



 Page 9 of 10 « First<78910
Username Post: Please test your parking brake.        (Topic#37711)
chevynut 
Ultra Senior Member
Posts: 11073
chevynut
Loc: Ft. Collins, CO .....
Reg: 09-22-01
Re: Please test your parking brake.
01-04-07 08:06 AM - Post#253550    
    In response to Auburn2

Quote:

Why do you not think you should pay to have your parking brake adjusted? Do you think GM should be responsible for realigning your car when your alignment is out? Should they be responsible when your fuel injectors clog or when your tires get worn bald and blow out? Parking or emergency brakes or whatever you want to call them have required periodic maintenence since they were invented. GM tries to help out by designing something that needs minimal adjustment and now they should pay for it to work forever.




Something that isn't used shouldn't wear out. If it wears and needs adjustment when it's not even used, the design is crap. GM should do something about it. I have not used my parking brake since I owned the vehicle. Several others have had the problem the first time they tried theirs on a NEW vehicle. Why do you defend a crappy, faulty design?

'56 Nomad, C4 Vette F&R suspension, Ramjet 502, Viper T56 6 speed See My Nomad Build
'56 BelAir 2DR Sedan in waiting
'01 Porsche Boxster S
'03 Chevy Silverado 2500HD 4x4 Duramax


 
Fixitfox33 
Senior Member
Posts: 1094
Fixitfox33
Loc: North Texas...Denison
Reg: 11-06-04
Re: Please test your parking brake.
01-04-07 08:36 AM - Post#253551    
    In response to chevynut

Quote:

Quote:

Why do you not think you should pay to have your parking brake adjusted? Do you think GM should be responsible for realigning your car when your alignment is out? Should they be responsible when your fuel injectors clog or when your tires get worn bald and blow out? Parking or emergency brakes or whatever you want to call them have required periodic maintenence since they were invented. GM tries to help out by designing something that needs minimal adjustment and now they should pay for it to work forever.




Something that isn't used shouldn't wear out. If it wears and needs adjustment when it's not even used, the design is crap. GM should do something about it. I have not used my parking brake since I owned the vehicle. Several others have had the problem the first time they tried theirs on a NEW vehicle. Why do you defend a crappy, faulty design?




I'm gonna have to agree with Chevynut here.
The vehicle should have had a good working parking brake in the first place, and then, if never used, it should still be a good working parking brake.

I know it is possible to have rear disc brakes with good working parking brakes, that don't wear out when not used.
I have a fleet of vehicles I maintain. My fleet does not consist entirely of GM products.
I have seen some very derogatory comments about other manufacturers vehicles, but for the sake of this argument, I must tell you, Ford has been using rear disc brakes on some vehicles since 95 that I am sure of.
I had three Explorers, each with over 100,000 tough law enforcement miles on them, and I NEVER even replaced a set of parking brake shoes on any of them. All were used regularly, and all would still hold like new when the vehicles were sold.
Crown Vics, F150's, F250's, F350's, and 450's...all the same.
The technology exists. It CAN be done.

GM just missed it on this item, and yes...I think they should compensate owners, or correct the problem.

When Ford had the shift levers jumping out of Park into Reverse, and injuring people, they fixed it.

Why shouldn't a manufacturer that made a mistake, stand by their name, and get it right?

Don't fix it if it ain't broke,
But if it's broke...I can Fixit.


"Van" (It's actually Richard....but everyone calls me Van.)


 
VintageCarryall 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2631

Loc: Arizona
Reg: 10-08-06
02-25-07 07:09 AM - Post#1104742    
    In response to Fixitfox33

Yet the 8 lug GMT800 trucks as well as those 6 luggers (Suburban, Tahoe and friends) with dual piston rear calipers seem to have quite long lived parking brakes.

1994 Dodge Caravan SWB 3.3L V6
1962 Studebaker Lark 4 door 350 Chevy/TH350



 
AKA-KWIK 
Member
Posts: 79
AKA-KWIK
Loc: Hampton Roads
Reg: 07-09-04
03-28-07 03:26 PM - Post#1130543    
    In response to VintageCarryall

Park brake is the ONLY failure we have experienced in 100K on our 02 Sierra. Only time it is ever used is on our slight grade driveway when I work under it or jack it. The pad on one side got out of alignment or sagged and eat the rotor. Really poor design. It is a wonderful truck. After 100K miles we had an alignment done...well they checked it, and it was still dead nuts on. Barely have to rotate tires the GM geometry is so good, but the park brake is a sad, sad design, that GM should regret. Just one mans opinion...

'97 Hendricks Camaro SS
'03 50th A/E 'vette
'02 Sierra


 
AKA-KWIK 
Member
Posts: 79
AKA-KWIK
Loc: Hampton Roads
Reg: 07-09-04
03-28-07 03:30 PM - Post#1130547    
    In response to AKA-KWIK

Oh one more thing. It still has the original front pads...but I had to replace the e-brake??? come on now! Rear pads got replaced because the E brake failed and ate the rotor.

'97 Hendricks Camaro SS
'03 50th A/E 'vette
'02 Sierra


 
Auburn2 
Member
Posts: 31

Reg: 01-21-04
04-01-07 07:33 AM - Post#1133084    
    In response to chevynut

  • chevynut Said:
</font><blockquo te><font class="small">Quote:&l t;/font><hr /><br /> Why do you not think you should pay to have your parking brake adjusted? Do you think GM should be responsible for realigning your car when your alignment is out? Should they be responsible when your fuel injectors clog or when your tires get worn bald and blow out? Parking or emergency brakes or whatever you want to call them have required periodic maintenence since they were invented. GM tries to help out by designing something that needs minimal adjustment and now they should pay for it to work forever. <br /><br /><hr /></blockquote>& lt;font class="post"><br /><br />Something that isn't used shouldn't wear out. If it wears and needs adjustment when it's not even used, the design is crap. GM should do something about it. I have not used my parking brake since I owned the vehicle. Several others have had the problem the first time they tried theirs on a NEW vehicle. Why do you defend a crappy, faulty design?



If that were true there would not be a time limit on warrantys. Your tires will dry rot if not used, unless maintenence is performed so will all your seals. Paint will fade and chip.




 
Coyote 
Member
Posts: 21
Coyote
Loc: West Texas
Reg: 08-12-03
04-16-07 10:54 AM - Post#1144243    
    In response to Auburn2

2001 Chevy 1500 Silverado
5.3 L
108,000 miles

Well...this weekend, I dug into this task. The brake shoes have never had to be replaced. I think the hardest part of this job was getting the 18mm bolts off that hold the brake mounting bracket. Those suckers are covered in LocTite.


I replaced the driver side parking brake shoe and clip. It looked terrible. The self-adjustment screw looked like it had never moved. The old clip allows the shoe to rotate under torque and that ground down the shoe, in one area, to the bare metal and 1/8" into the drum area of the rotor.
The new shoe and clip went on, only after having to grind down the drum surface back to flush.

The passenger side was fine, but I went ahead and adjusted the adjustment screw and replaced the clip on that side.

It all works great now, but this was a piss poor design by GM and they should acknowledge that fact.

We'll see how long it keeps working.

Raider Power


Edited by Coyote on 04-16-07 10:58 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Mr B 
Member
Posts: 7

Loc: Northern California
Reg: 08-03-05
06-07-07 04:28 PM - Post#1181344    
    In response to jefro

Well, here I thought I was the only one with the prob.
I have an 01 Suburban 1500 and had to have the dealer adjust the park Break 2 times while under warranty. It only lasted less than a month both times. My E-Brake as we call it has not worked since. In the dirve way, in park, E-brake pedal on the floor, the truck rolls forward until it clunks on the pawl.
I tow a Bass Boat every weekend and it scares the hell out of me everytime I put it in park on the steep ramp and get out to launch my boat by myself.
The dealer never said my E-brake pads are worn. They just adjusted the cable for my temporary 2-3 week fix. Very poor design.
These folks that say "just adjust the cable yourself" that wouldnt be a problem if you did not have to do it every month.
Yes, I believe I should be able to get out of my vehicle on an incline, in neutral with the E-Brake on and have it hold my vehicle in place.



 
Anonymous 

06-13-07 08:50 AM - Post#1184967    
    In response to Mr B

I logged on to find out about replacement disc shields for my 00 Blazer and found this, got to add my story. Bought fm dealer,used with 20k,also warranty(aftermkt) to 50k. Later at 40K when backing heard horrific screech from rear wheels. I always use parking brake. When I pulled rear disc (combo hat) I found the adjustment srew had broken in half (the notched rim) and wedged in between the shoe and lining. I thought this unusual until I removed the pass side and found the same! Scored drums required repl and dealer refused so I had to pay deductible on this obvious engineering error. Now 80K mi later I'm replacing the drums again for severe rust. Disc shield (inboard) is rusted out. Any idea on replacing? If these parts are so vulnerable to rust, why not paint exposed areas?



Edited by BlazeMark on 06-13-07 08:52 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Bad Bowtie 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 4785
Bad Bowtie
Age: 46
Loc: TX
Reg: 07-04-03
06-13-07 12:16 PM - Post#1185113    
    In response to BlazeMark

That's a good question...

GMC. We are Professional Grade.

http://www.cardomain.com/id/2004VHO


 
72Sprint454 
Member
Posts: 29

Loc: NC
Reg: 04-13-04
07-21-07 04:21 PM - Post#1213616    
    In response to Bad Bowtie

Am posting anothe rproblem but this one caught my eye and i felt i would post about my trucks.

I had a 2001 2500HD Chevy, no parking brake.
I now have a 2000 GMC Sonoma, no parking brake.
I am in the process of trading and have driven a coule of full sized trucks in the past week. None have had working parking brakes. I figured there was a problem so it's the first thing I check now.

72 GMC Sprint 468 BB w/N2O 54 BelAir under construction


 
coastaloutfitters 
Member
Posts: 14

Loc: SW Houston TX
Reg: 10-02-07
10-08-07 01:12 PM - Post#1269943    
    In response to 72Sprint454

i inherited a 99 z71 silverado 1500, at 59,000 mi the pk brake was taco'd inside rear discs and pads, mechanic said this was very common, i called gm, no recalls for my model yr ??????

i have never used the brake and ck lever often....


54 3100 truck
74 vette conv.
99 Tahoe
99 Z71 4X4


 
chevyjim 
Member
Posts: 33

Loc: Florida, USA
Reg: 10-20-04
11-27-07 05:21 AM - Post#1305412    
    In response to jefro

You can add me to the list. Tried to use my 04 Sub brake to park on a medium sloped driveway and nothing. I haven't had a chance to see what the exact problem is, but will this weekend.

Jim,
Merritt Island, FL
2004 Suburban
2000 Blazer


 
DenaliXL 
Contributor
Posts: 148

Reg: 02-25-07
12-07-07 12:27 PM - Post#1313082    
    In response to chevyjim

Me too. Just failed NJ inspection for one thing... parking brake.

I only use it when I'm jacking the truck or when parking on a hill with a trailer. Changed rear pads & rotors at 40K and parking brakes looked okay but don't recall testing them. 64K now. No grinding, ust won't hold the truck from rolling on a mild grade from a stop. I'm hoping its just a cable adjustment.

If its barely used and nothing rusted in place, it should still work.



 
onebad60biscayne 
Member
Posts: 241

Loc: Peculiar MO
Reg: 04-10-05
12-18-07 09:26 PM - Post#1321947    
    In response to DenaliXL

2001 Suburban and add me to the list. E-Brake to the floor. I don't think you will get anywhere with a law suit until the defect starts getting people maimed or worse killed.

I love working on old cars. It feels good to bring a car back to life that someone has given up for dead. Cars owned: 60 Chevy Belair 2dr, 69 Chevelle SS, 68 Mustang, (2) 59 Fords, 2001 Suburban, 2006 Harley Softail


 
gearshuck 
Member
Posts: 4

Reg: 01-10-08
01-10-08 12:06 PM - Post#1339593    
    In response to onebad60biscayne

One more in the list!
In response to the people who ask if GM should replace or repair stuff that wears, I say yes if it wears due to a bad design. If my headlights went out as often as the "Non"-parking brake, Yes, I would expect someone to fix the problem. If my tires wore out due to a defective design, yes. And so on. This is not "NORMAL" to any sane person.
In reading all the 9 pages of posts, I theorize that the adjustment cables are out of threads is due to the dealers trying to get the bad design to work and this may be the reason for the premature wear. Sounds like those that have backed off the adjustment have had better service from the "brake". Maybe they are adjusting it all the way to try to get some pedal resistance and this is not the correct setting.
Just a thought.
It is our own fault (the American public) for wanting everything new every year. Look at the bug. They kept making it virtually the same year after year and it worked and the parts of one 10 years old will work on a newer one. I have owned Fords that a part from the same year model wouldn't fit another same vehicle. They have a better idea you know. Make is so you can't fix it so you can sell another one or lots of new parts.
As a side note, I love the front wheel bearings on my 99 sil. You can't just by a $10 bearing, you have to buy a $180 hub with the bearing installed.
Sorry for the rant, but you shouldn't have gotten me started.
Best wishes,
We might as well let the Chinese start making all our cars and trucks for us. ha ha
Wonder why all we get is junk?



 
wings59 
"9th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2318
wings59
Loc: Bakersfield Ca
Reg: 01-30-05
01-10-08 05:38 PM - Post#1339780    
    In response to gearshuck

Mine failed also..03 Tahoe

Larry

59 Impala Sport Coupe

36 Dodge Street rod..........owned 27 years






 
Chevy3133 
Newbie
Posts: 9

Reg: 01-01-08
02-25-08 02:35 PM - Post#1374385    
    In response to wings59

Ive got a 00 1500 Silverado and my parking brake cable on the driver side rusted so bad that when i engaged the parking brake it would not release. I didnt find this out until i did the brakes, but by that time the parking brake pad was all but gone. So unless i get a whole new parking brake on the driver side i cannot even use my parking brake.



 
Court93Z71 
Member
Posts: 9

Loc: Eagle River, AK
Reg: 01-09-05
03-10-08 02:49 PM - Post#1384721    
    In response to tibbitts

I have an 03 Z71 that has no parking brake as well. Very disappointing having been a Chevy fan my whole life.

I know GM has the technology to make a working parking brake with rear rotors. I am a mechanic in the Army and our HMMWV's (Hum-Vee's) have 4 wheel disc brakes and a VERY functional parking brake. For the military Hummers the parking brake has to work because the transmission has NO "park" position to hold the vehicle. I am really surprised GM didn't use the same setup on our vehicles. The Army started using the Hummers around 1985, so it's not "new" technology.

'03 Chevy Z71 5.3 '93 Suzuki GSXF 600


 
jefro 
Very Senior Member
Posts: 1121
jefro
Loc: Texas
Reg: 06-18-03
04-28-08 09:47 AM - Post#1421999    
    In response to Court93Z71

gearshuck said,
"It is our own fault (the American public) for wanting everything new every year."

I disagree with that. My father and grandfather were UAW tool and die makers. In the 1960's my father described what is wrong with American auto production (plenty and it hasn't changed). The real mechanics that know about machines know why something will fail. As Americans we don't respect the knowledge of the worker. In Japan and Germany the common worker has a say in the production process. In fact senior workers are sought out and selected for their wisdom.

A parking brake is not a new item. How many common people on this forum know that the design stinks? Plenty. Do they have a degree? No, did they see a working product before in their life that worked just fine? Yes.



Edited by jefro on 04-28-08 09:50 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Brunzcuda 
Member
Posts: 10

Loc: CA
Reg: 03-31-06
04-28-08 10:39 PM - Post#1422587    
    In response to Brunzcuda

Hi, The pick up now has 10K miles(like new), and the brake still works. The trick, as I see it, is to pump the normal brake pedal, while the park brake is on. Or, trade off, between the two pedals, on flat ground, and you will see the park pedal grab sooner, or higher; once every 1000 mi., or if you are not getting the tightness it is capable of. I tow a car hauler, and it holds it good when loading the Cudas. So, I am working with it, so far, I have replaced the shocks with RSX rancho's and the bouncing has stopped, I recommend them, also I have found no fault with the steering column links.



 
JeffsJeep04 
Newbie
Posts: 1

Reg: 05-07-08
05-07-08 07:36 AM - Post#1427955    
    In response to Brunzcuda

01 silverado RCSB 5.3, absolutely no parking brake. This is the first automatic I've driven in a while, and have gotten used to setting the parking brake. Nothing. On flat ground, it makes no difference in takeoff in gear with it on or off. This weekend I will likely be taking the brakes apart to get a closer look.

This wouldn't be so bad if the shoes weren't so expensive and the updated parts would fix the issue for sure. I'd love to get a retrofit kit to update to the dual shoe system like the HD trucks have.

I'm an ex-mechanic, so it's no issue for me to do this work, but I feel for those folks that don't have the time or ability to do this and are getting socked by the dealers for this obvious defect.



Edited by JeffsJeep04 on 05-07-08 07:37 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
SilveradoDave 
Newbie
Posts: 7

Reg: 09-03-08
09-29-08 06:39 PM - Post#1531951    
    In response to tibbitts

Here's my 2002 silverado:
less than 60k mile on my very first new vehicle of my 47yrs of life and 8 previous vehicles owned.

-My badly knocking 5.3L is not normal...Chevy says carbon causing valves to stick! $3000 not normal...
-My ticking lifters is not normal...
- Stearing "coupling" replaced 3 times until Chevy finally made a new part that worked...!st on warranty last 2 on me... not normal
-The constant vibration at highway speeds is not normal...
- clunking noises every time I go over a bump not normal...
- Speakers breaking off their mounts not normal...
- parking brake? had the truck in reverse(error), parking brake on and it started climbing up! my driveway.

Chevy is loosing it along with a lot of customers. Going back to Toyota. Sorry USA I tried to bad you don't. I work to hard for my money to put up with this.

Chevy mechanic/talk folks; I must say thanks for all your input though. I get more useful info from here than my dealer. Tough spot to be in sometimes. Don't let our frustration stop you.

p.s it is very easy to take off with the brake on and not notice since it doesn't do much. At least they gave us a beep to let us know it's on.

my ramblings....




 
occupant 
Member
Posts: 104
occupant
Loc: Columbus, OH
Reg: 07-11-03
10-16-08 08:21 PM - Post#1543965    
    In response to jgrimmy

  • jgrimmy Said:
</font><blockquo te><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr /><br /> This is the Chevy service talk(BS) from so called pro's that [censored]'s me off. Maybe you "Old Wheezers" ought to get out to actual work room floor and ask the real pro's.<br /><br />The Parking Brake MUST by state law hold the vehicle. It must hold if you have an AT or Standard tranny. It is a safety part. <br /><br /> <br /><br /><hr /></blockquote>& lt;font class="post"> <br /><br />Where have you found this law? I know of no federal law regarding this. Please post your source.<br /><br />The last bastion of a scoundrel is personal attacks! Calling the people who have resonded to this post "Old Wheezers" is ridiculous! I am on the service floor every day of the week, and I know others who have responded are also.<br /><br />Good luck in court, I hope your not embarassed easily.<br /><br />John<br /><br />



Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard 105 in a nutshell:

"Parking brakes must hold a vehicle in forward and reverse directions on a 30% grade for five minutes."

Actual text: http://edocket.access.gpo.gov/cfr_2003/octqtr/49cf...

I don't know if someone has posted this link in the past 5 YEARS on this thread, but I thought I might add something relevant. My mother-in-law drives a 2001 1500 ECSB 5.3, and her parking brake gets new shoes every time she has a brake job done. She claims the parking brake has never worked properly and she keeps wheel chocks under the back seat for this purpose. She'll park up against a curb if available, too.

Alan Moore - TOAD Towing - Columbus, OH

14 Altima 2.5S, storm blue, 2.5L/CVT, 29K
00 Suburban LS 4x2, white, 5.3L/auto, 250K


 
Smitty_Chevy 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1091

Age: 68
Loc: Hampton, GA
Reg: 10-29-08
02-21-09 06:32 PM - Post#1635528    
    In response to aservicemanager

  • aservicemanager Said:
...Be honest, how many of you have actually read the owner's manual ?



I'd say most of us here have read our owners manual. I know that's the first thing I do on a new vehicle. People that hang out here are not you're typical run to the dealer with their hair on fire types every time something doesn't work right. That's just my observation of the post I read here. Most people seem to be more of the do it yourself type here which means they know a little about what's going on under the hood.


The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time by the blood of patriots and tyrants - Thomas Jefferson


 
ZUL8TR 
Contributor
Posts: 105
ZUL8TR
Reg: 08-31-07
05-13-09 05:22 AM - Post#1696778    
    In response to Smitty_Chevy

One more to the list. Took her to the tranny shop cause I thought my rear end was going to gernade because of the clanking sound from the rear end. They replaced the whole parking brake set up. And guess what? It still does it now and again but not near as bad. I'm going to take it back at the end of the work week and see whats up. 01' half ton LT extended cab with the 5.3 4x4 Wonder why it still does it. Is the pedel suppose to go to the floor easly? I remeber someone saying it's an easy push peddle?

01' Extended cab 1\2 ton with the 5.3 4X4
K&N intake
Cat back duals
Wait4me Tune
Edlebrock shocks
250AMP alternator
Nice stereo
Amsoil everywhere, the stuff is amazing!!!
Sea-Foam believer
ScanGaugeII (is slick as all hell)
Others


 
Bad Bowtie 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 4785
Bad Bowtie
Age: 46
Loc: TX
Reg: 07-04-03
05-13-09 06:19 AM - Post#1696802    
    In response to ZUL8TR

Yes, the e-brake pedal goes "down easy".

GMC. We are Professional Grade.

http://www.cardomain.com/id/2004VHO


 
redroc86 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 1

Reg: 06-26-09
06-26-09 01:25 PM - Post#1723906    
    In response to Bad Bowtie

Glad this thread still is running. I had posted my problem (Parking Assist Brake Problem) on another forum, pickuptrucks.com a number of years ago when I started having this frustrating problem.

First, I want to say that I have a 2002 2500HD Silverado and my Parking Brake does not work any longer. It did for about the first 20 months but has no worked since.


This history of taking it into the dealer is long and I don't know that listing every excruciating detail would serve a purpose here. I will summarize.

I probably did not notice that the parking brake pedal slowly started getting closer and closer to the floor until it was on the floor and not holding. I was living with the parents at the time. Their driveway is exactly 15 degrees. The street is nearly as steep. We live in south western Pennsylvania, very hilly. I always apply the parking brake out of habit due to the hills even when on a flat area. The correct procedure taught to my brother and myself by dad. All Automatic Transmission vehicles in the family. Shift into neutral, apply parking brake until you believe it will hold, slowly let of service brake (main hydraulic brake) to test that vehicle is holding in place, press parking brake pedal further if not. When holding with no service brake, shift into park and turn vehicle off. This was don't to keep the weight of the vehicle off the parking pawl int eh transmission so that the weight of the vehicle did not keep you from being able to shift into gear when you start up and are heading out.

BTW, after a statement by the dealer, I verified in the service manual that it is referred to as a Parking Assist Brake. Not Emergency Brake, not even a Parking Brake which would insinuate that it could hold the vehicle without the transmission.

I believe that a vehicle should have a backup brake system in case of a hydraulic failure, despite the dual hydraulic system. Not being able to get your vehicle to run/move is too bad. Not being able to get it to stop, that is another story. Some of the GM techs on this forum have stated keeping service brakes properly maintained should not necessitate having a separate backup system to stop the vehicle.

Everyone had heard of Murphy and his law. When I take my truck to the dealer for any kind of brake work, I doubt they check every single part of the system and in particular don't inspect the brake lines. Road hazards can cause problem that just can't be taken into consideration.

So here are my highlights.

In for inspection, ask them to adjust so it will hold. They adjust, no better. Have it in two or three more times, no better. Right rear cable replaced as some point here. Still not holding.

After one trip down, and when I say trip I mean 30 minutes each way to head to a dealer further outside Pittsburgh where I bought the truck from because I heard the service was better and have had problems with my local dealer in the past, I take it to my parents (moved out by this time) and it still would not hold.

I take it home, pull the left side, nothing notable. Then pull the right side. Something on shoes and in drum part of the disc. Call the old man, he comes over and says they are contaminated. Looks like the rear seal leaking (I noticed a number of other on this thread reporting this). I take it back, they replace the seal. Less than a week later, seal fails catastrophically, had to have it flat-bedded the 30 minutes to dealer. They inform me that the axel housing is 0.018 out of round and they have no idea how their mechanic had just gotten a replacement seal in there. They keep the truck for one and half weeks while a new housing is shipped and they swap all the parts over onto it.

Got new shoes, rotors and pads out of the deal. Still does not hold.

Back a few more times. They replace pedal assembly and play around. There is a little hill behind their dealership where they park some of their inventory and they were testing it there.

Service manager was actually doing the testing. I noticed when I was going in the forms for service when from white to yellow. Don't know what that was about but I think they were expecting problems. I had tried to speak to GM district rep who they talked to and even had him look at the truck when he was on a local visit. Never got to talk to him myself.

Filed a complaint with the NHTSA.

Some on this board have mentioned adjustments of the cable with the thread under the driver side in front of rear wheel. That is on an equalizer setup which I wish I had. That cable with thread would come from cable on end of pedal assembly and go through a bracket. Cables from each drum actuating lever would go to either side of this bracket allowing the tension to each cable to equalize as the bracket would distribute the tension equally to each of the rear cables.

I wish I had this. I don't The cable from the pedal cable coupler goes all the way back to the left rear wheel. There is an adapter in roughly the location the Y equalizer would be that allows the right rear cable to attach. Problem is that this does not an equalization of tension across both drum/shoes on the left and right.

If the left start week in the drum assembly is adjusted so the shoe contacts the drum sooner and harder than the right, then there is no friction or at least not nearly the same applied to the right side. Holding power is cut in half. If the right star wheel is adjusted so that shoe contacts right drum sooner/hard then left doesn't get the same friction force.

Dealer (Service Manager) agreed and we stood there while mechanics (two of them) applied parking brake pedal so shoes just started engaging and we rotated tires and adjusted star wheels until we thought there was equal amount of drag/friction.

Seemed a little better but pedal still to the floor and not holding.

Eventually I gave up and filed that complaint.

I also found the recall on the same exact model but with the manual transmission.

So if you don't have an AT with parking pawl, GM does not feel that it is worth recalling due to the expense but will recall the manual transmissions due to roll-away incidents. NHTSA complaints state that roll-away incidents in AT versions of the vehicle are statistically the same as in peer vehicles (apparently GM, Ford and Dodge trucks with Automatic transmissions all have roll-away incidents). I hope no children are in front of these acceptable number of roll-away incidents.

I have considered trying to swap out the cable system for one that has the equalizer but there are brackets welded to the frame that are different for these setups than what is on my 2500HD.

The local mechanic that I now take my vehicle to says this is why he traded in his Silverado for a newer one to get rear drum brakes.

I'm very happy with my truck otherwise and shelled out a pretty penny for lots of upgrades. I planned to drive it into the ground. Trucks hold their value. When it is no longer convenient as a grocery getter, I'm sure I will keep it in running order to take advantage of the 3/4 ton for hauling.

And yes, as a number of posters have mentioned, the trucks don't hold when empty let alone when launching their boats or hauling something.

I think 3/4 ton pickup rated to actually hold 1.5 tons should have a parking "assist" brake that actually holds the truck independent of the transmission parking pawl.

My parking brake cable broke just before memorial day. The cable running from left rear to pedal cable coupler. Duct taped the ends up. Been gently easing of the service brake to rest on that parking pawl. Hoping I would have a problem shifting into gear when I later go to pull out.

One other thing I'd like to mention is that I gave up on the GM rotors. I put Cragar Cryogenic discs and new pads up front last summer and then got the drum in a disc version for the rear this past December prior to inspection. Had the local mechanic do that since it was a bit messy out this past December in Pittsburgh. They replaced disc/rotor and put new shoes and pads on. I supplied all parts. Nice of them since they usually make a little off the parts they sell. they adjust but still not holding.

I repeat, brand new shoes and rotor (drum in disc) so no wear issue like with the reported driving away with brake still engaged. Still not holding.

Perhaps the pedal slowly moving to the floor is the clue that the cables might be stretching.

All cables have been replaced except the one that just broke.

Cables are probably made of the same cheap crap that the tailgate cables were necessitating a recall.

That only happened because people got hurt climbing into, standing/sitting on or loading things on the tailgate and had it collapse on them.

If GM doesn't want to recall and you get a bunch of BS from dealers until you are out of warranty that is fine but how about giving me a lifetime warranty on tranny work when that parking pawl goes. Also, how about paying for all damage cause by my truck rolling away. Then I'll be OK except if someone gets injured by it.

BTW, GM, don't expect my insurance company to sit by and pay for that damage. Remember, I filed my complaint to the NHTSA and have that as well as copies of all the service work (including the yellow sheets). I may not sue, there may be no class action lawsuit, and you may not care right now with your financial problems but don't be surprised if one day the shoe drops on you.

I guess I'll have to follow my little brother's example and buy a rice burning Tundra next time I go shopping.

sorry this post was so long but it could easily have been worse.

One last thing, if we all have this problem and surely others do and don't realize or have been putting up with, why doesn't someone look at this as an economic opportunity and design and aftermarket product to replace this sloppy system on my precious.

I would definitely pony up a few pennies for a dependable system. I'm not sure that I would even trust GM with something this important since they would try to come out with the cheapest fix they could for a recall that would cost them money.

As far as I'm concerned that is part of the problem on my truck since it does not have the equalizer setup but instead this adapter thing that doesn't make sense to me.







 
Legbat 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 1

Reg: 09-05-09
09-05-09 10:16 AM - Post#1766843    
    In response to redroc86

I've read SO much on this subject that my head's spinning and it's quite possible that I missed what the resolution actually is. At this point I don't expect anything to be covered under warranty being that mine is a 2000 model. I just want to know what to buy so I can correct the problem myself. Is this something that has to be purchased at the dealership or could I pick up what I need at the local parts store? Thanks.



 
Cardinal24 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 89
Cardinal24
Loc: Traverse City, Michigan
Reg: 01-22-10
01-23-10 03:17 PM - Post#1847946    
    In response to Legbat

I have a 2004 Chevy pickup and I too have a bad parking break system. I fish most of the summer and I have a 6000 lb boat so I would use my parking break every time I would launch and retrieve my boat.

Well after one year the parking break started acting up, it would not fully release. So the truck would squeal and feel sluggish for several feet after disengaging the parking break. The sluggishness would go away but the squeal would last for days so I quit using the break.

When I took it in last year to have the breaks done at an independent break shop. I asked the tech to repair the parking breaks and he told me to not to do that on this truck. He said they where a poor design and that it would just start causing problems again soon.

Now when a guy who fixes breaks for a living tells you this then tells you to save your money, you tend to believe he is correct. So I did not have them repaired.



Steve H.
Traverse City, Michigan

2004 2500HD Crew Cab


 
 Page 9 of 10 « First<78910
Icon Legend Permissions Topic Options
Report Post

Quote Post

Quick Reply

Print Topic

Email Topic

129935 Views
FusionBB
FusionBB™ Version 2.1
©2003-2006 InteractivePHP, Inc.
Execution time: 0.332 seconds.   Total Queries: 13   Zlib Compression is on.
All times are (GMT -0800) Pacific. Current time is 02:59 PM
Top