 rawaag
"17th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 513
Loc: Williamsburg Virginia
Reg: 06-12-09
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01-16-25 01:33 PM - Post#2877129
Since I changed out a 235 in my 52 Chevy it takes forever to run without dying. I had a 235 rebuilt by a local shop and added a few modifications, before installing it a year ago. I have only driven it less than a grand since the rebuild. In this cool/cold weather it takes forever to warm up enough to drive it without dying. We've tried everything so it would run without dying. The dual carbs have an auto choke, but it still dies. We've messed with the timing but that gave us spark knock or a problem with acceleration. It takes 3 or 4 minutes keeping it running before I can take it out on the road. One of the reasons I don't take it out until warm weather arrives. Any suggestions?
Ralph  |
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 Kyle G.
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 162
Age: 29
Loc: Delanco, New Jersey
Reg: 11-29-15
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01-16-25 04:47 PM - Post#2877140
In response to rawaag
Does it still die if you hold your foot on the gas to keep the rpms up? If it doesn't, do you still have a throttle cable?
1950 Chevy Styleline Deluxe w/ '60 235 engine and '58 torque tube 3-speed overdrive with 3:55 gears in the back
1946 Willys CJ-2A |
Edited by Kyle G. on 01-16-25 04:48 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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drew1987
"12th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3944
Age: 37
Loc: Western NY
Reg: 02-23-14
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01-16-25 06:46 PM - Post#2877143
In response to Kyle G.
The original manifolds had a heat riser with a thermostatic spring, do you still have that? If so and it works, i'd be looking at the carbs - all comes down to just fuel, air, timing, and compression. When it's cold, it needs a richer mix. Meaning more fuel. If it isnt getting it, it will absolutely struggle to run, just like the choke is not on
Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)
1950 Chevy Styleline Deluxe
1954 Chevy 3100
Various other "modern classics" |
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 Dave in VA
"5th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 622
Age: 74
Loc: SW Virginia, USA
Reg: 03-11-18
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01-17-25 07:23 AM - Post#2877159
In response to drew1987
My 216 has a split original manifold, with no heat riser. It's a little cold natured, but it doesn't stall out. The Carter W1 has throttle advance when using the choke, and I just up the RPM's...
"Knowledge is Good" -- Emil Faber
U S Navy MM2 1970-75 USS Canisteo AO-99, USS Miller DE-1091 (The Champagne of Ships)
1950 Styleline Deluxe 2dr, mostly stock, driver quality...new to me 3/18
2017 Silverado LTZ 6.2
2020 Blazer Premier
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Edited by Dave in VA on 01-17-25 07:28 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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52_Belair
Senior Member
Posts: 311
Loc: Canby, Oregon
Reg: 03-25-03
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01-17-25 09:40 AM - Post#2877162
In response to rawaag
Three or four minutes of warm up doesn't seem long for an older model car. IIRC the owners manual for my '52 splash and dip says to let it warm up long enough for the oil pressure to start to drop so I always let it idle longer than any modern car.
And as already mentioned do you have a working heat riser on the exhaust manifold?
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 RAM_51
"8th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 6800
Loc: Yakima, WA. USA
Reg: 12-28-02
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01-18-25 09:46 AM - Post#2877182
In response to 52_Belair
owners manual for my '52 splash and dip says to let it warm up long enough for the oil pressure to start to drop
In the colder winters on this side of the Cascades, the OIL needle would go completely out of the window on my Business Coupe. I'd almost always wait until it got at least a little closer to the center "dot" before moving. Condensation would also just about always form on the glass in that area...warm oil...cold glass!
1951 Fleetline Preservation
'51 Fleetline DeLuxe, POWERglide 2-DR (Fathom Green)
'51 Styleline Special BUSINESS COUPE (Shadow Gray)
'53 6500 Dump Bed (Faded Red)
'50 Styleline DeLuxe 4-DR (Mist Green) |
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52_Belair
Senior Member
Posts: 311
Loc: Canby, Oregon
Reg: 03-25-03
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01-18-25 10:40 AM - Post#2877185
In response to rawaag
"The dual carbs have an auto choke, but it still dies."
Have you tried to enrichen the choke settings?
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rawaag
"17th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 513
Loc: Williamsburg Virginia
Reg: 06-12-09
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01-24-25 07:34 AM - Post#2877345
In response to Kyle G.
It will die 3 or 4 times, even when I hold the accelerator part way down. I'm thinking of doing away with the auto choke and adding a manual choke. I was thinking the engine was still very tight since the rebuild.
| Ralph |
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rawaag
"17th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 513
Loc: Williamsburg Virginia
Reg: 06-12-09
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01-24-25 07:38 AM - Post#2877346
In response to drew1987
It doesn't have the heat riser any longer. However, the carbs are the ones I had on the previous engine without any problem. Once it gets warm it runs fine.
| Ralph |
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52_Belair
Senior Member
Posts: 311
Loc: Canby, Oregon
Reg: 03-25-03
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01-24-25 10:41 AM - Post#2877350
In response to rawaag
Have you tried enrichening the auto choke settings?
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drew1987
"12th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3944
Age: 37
Loc: Western NY
Reg: 02-23-14
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01-24-25 04:40 PM - Post#2877355
In response to 52_Belair
Any progress? If you have compression, then it's fuel, spark, or air... we can probably eliminate air... hope it smooths out soon =)
or it could be timing too....
Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)
1950 Chevy Styleline Deluxe
1954 Chevy 3100
Various other "modern classics" |
Edited by drew1987 on 01-24-25 04:40 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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