Gain extra benefits by becoming a Supporting Member Click here find out how!

Classic Performance Products Nu-Relics Power Windows
American Auto Wire Hellwig Products IncPerformance Rod & Custom
Danchuk Catalog



Username Post: Rear drum clean up        (Topic#376218)
Adelaide65SS 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 80
Adelaide65SS
Loc: South Australia
Reg: 06-20-11
01-10-25 10:15 PM - Post#2876959    

Thanks in advance.
Just cleaning up the rear drums on my resto and wondering the best course of action.
They have light surface rust on the outer which I want to deal with.
What are the thoughts re wire brushing as best as possible then applying a rust converter and a very light spray with high temp black paint.
Or should I get them blasted and then just light coat of paint. Not sure if the residual converter coating is likely to burn off?
Thanks



 


toro455 
"9th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1514
toro455
Loc: Western NY
Reg: 06-15-02
01-11-25 07:20 AM - Post#2876966    
    In response to Adelaide65SS

When I did a set, which were similar, I lightly blasted them and then I coated with a couple of coats of RustBullet Silver. That is a paint over rust paint but for a paint not specifically targeted as as high temp it has great high temp properties. I mean it lists a pretty high temp and then there's an excursion temp. It's been great on those rear drums I did and the color looks good on drums. I would not use RustBullet black but if you want black you can coat 2x with silver and there's a top coat window where you could spray high temp black after 1.5 to 2hrs after your last coat.



 
japete92 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 2358
japete92
Loc: No. Virginia
Reg: 01-18-13
01-11-25 07:28 AM - Post#2876967    
    In response to Adelaide65SS

  • Adelaide65SS Said:
Thanks in advance.
Just cleaning up the rear drums on my resto and wondering the best course of action.
They have light surface rust on the outer which I want to deal with.
What are the thoughts re wire brushing as best as possible then applying a rust converter and a very light spray with high temp black paint.
Or should I get them blasted and then just light coat of paint. Not sure if the residual converter coating is likely to burn off?
Thanks



I had a '63 convertible I bought in '68. Its drums had a slight coat of surface rust. The one I bought in 2012 did too. I never did anything and was happy with that choice.

Because any remaining rust will rust through any paint, I would wire brush them until as clean as possible (mainly to remove any oil/grease) and put them back on the car.

IF I felt that I had to do something, I'd paint them a gray or a rust color. Then touch them up every year, or so.

Just my opinion.

Pete




 
bobb 
Super Senior Member
Posts: 6916

Loc: paradise
Reg: 09-05-03
01-11-25 09:06 AM - Post#2876971    
    In response to Adelaide65SS

ospho? muratic acid? i like the cast color or black. maybe header or engine primer/paint.

70 L camino, grampa engine, g-force 5 spd, road rage suspension. Pray first before all else fails.


 
toro455 
"9th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1514
toro455
Loc: Western NY
Reg: 06-15-02
01-11-25 12:03 PM - Post#2876977    
    In response to bobb

Phosphoric acid would turn the rust into a gray/black Iron Phosphate. The only issue with dipping them is the inside swept surfaces would be treated as well. The ones on the car I did have lasted many years now, as a summer only car, and nothing has come through the RustBullet silver. If that's painted with a top coat you could paint it any color you wish. Maybe VHT cast iron grey would look nice if you wanted it to look like OE original bare cast material.



 
Adelaide65SS 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 80
Adelaide65SS
Loc: South Australia
Reg: 06-20-11
01-11-25 01:19 PM - Post#2876982    
    In response to toro455

Thanks for your inputs.
Did not realise the factory colour is grey, just assumed (incorrectly) black.
Thanks



 
japete92 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 2358
japete92
Loc: No. Virginia
Reg: 01-18-13
01-11-25 06:11 PM - Post#2876995    
    In response to Adelaide65SS

They were not painted gray, or any color. They were a 'natural' casting (steel gray); like the exhaust manifolds.

Did not stay 'natural' very long and became a 'rusty' red rather quickly; as did the exhaust manifolds.

Folks paint them (and the exhaust manifolds); but GM didn't.

Just a clarification.

Pete



 
DHMelton 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 448
DHMelton
Loc: Central Arizona
Reg: 04-10-22
01-12-25 07:03 AM - Post#2877000    
    In response to japete92

If you want original raw cast look, something I think called "Cast Blast", or similar is a high temp paint used for cast iron exh manifolds.

Just search for high temp natural look cast iron exhuast manifold paint.

I use gloss Rustoleun Appliance epoxy black on the drums, but about any black will work, it won't burn off.

Never had a problem with rust bleed thru, either.

You can always use POR 15, it paints right over rust and seeps thru the rust to the metal under neath. Don't get it on your skin though, as it doesn't come off, it will stay visible on your skin for about 3 weeks.

Doug



 
toro455 
"9th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1514
toro455
Loc: Western NY
Reg: 06-15-02
01-12-25 08:19 AM - Post#2877002    
    In response to DHMelton

Doug,
Just be aware that not all POR15 branded paints are paints meant to actually paint over rust. The ones which are offer nothing special with respect to temperature. IMO RustBullet Silver is a better choice for that type of solution. Temperature capability is better and, if top coated in within the optimum window, other paints can be used to top coat in any color you like.

VHT cast iron high temp is so close to a cast iron look that it's difficult to see where you've painted if you were coating over actual cast iron. Putting RustBullet silver down first would provide the durability and prevent rust bleed through.

I still like some of the POR15 paints, like their engine paints, but their name is deceiving. They as well don't publish any data. If you dig a bit you can find data on Rust Bullet. There was a Bridge Authority which compared it to their traditional solution. Preparation for POR15, the actual paint over rust version, is more intense, if you follow the letter of their instructions, and once done POR15, the paint over rust version, offers almost no UV protection. Drums don't get a lot of exposure to UV but you can typically see some part of the drum on a lot of wheels.

Scott



 
Adelaide65SS 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 80
Adelaide65SS
Loc: South Australia
Reg: 06-20-11
01-13-25 12:19 AM - Post#2877023    
    In response to toro455

Thanks again for your inputs.
Not sure if we have the same brands such as RustBullet here in Australia but we do have VHT so might look at the 'cast' colour.
Following on from this question I would like to clean and tidy up the internal components, springs, rods, adjuster etc before reassembly.
I was thinking a simple degrease and clean up with steel wool would suffice. Would you agree?
Thanks



 
DHMelton 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 448
DHMelton
Loc: Central Arizona
Reg: 04-10-22
01-13-25 06:47 AM - Post#2877029    
    In response to Adelaide65SS

I clean all my springs,and retainers in the solvent tank (using a brush) and repainted all of them, using silver, black, blue and red rattle can paint whenever i do a brake job.
Paint inside of backing plate semi-gloss black (after steel wool), and cylinder a grey color.

Does anyone ever see it? No, but i know it was done.

Doug



 
japete92 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 2358
japete92
Loc: No. Virginia
Reg: 01-18-13
01-13-25 10:31 AM - Post#2877044    
    In response to Adelaide65SS

  • Adelaide65SS Said:
Thanks again for your inputs.
Not sure if we have the same brands such as RustBullet here in Australia but we do have VHT so might look at the 'cast' colour.
Following on from this question I would like to clean and tidy up the internal components, springs, rods, adjuster etc before reassembly.
I was thinking a simple degrease and clean up with steel wool would suffice. Would you agree?
Thanks




Here's an old post about exhaust manifolds; but it has some nice pics of the 'cast' color:

https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showpost.php?po...

You are best judge of the condition of your brake parts. Me? If I had any parts that I thought needed more than what you propose, I'd replace with new.

Just my opinions.

Pete




 
Adelaide65SS 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 80
Adelaide65SS
Loc: South Australia
Reg: 06-20-11
01-13-25 10:33 PM - Post#2877064    
    In response to DHMelton

Thank you Doug that sounds like the way to go but I was just a bit reticent about painting too much given the drums (and internal components I assume) can get hot ?



 
DHMelton 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 448
DHMelton
Loc: Central Arizona
Reg: 04-10-22
01-14-25 06:38 AM - Post#2877072    
    In response to Adelaide65SS

I've never had paint burn off drums or springs etc, and that is even on cars with heavy brake use.

Doug



 


Icon Legend Permissions Topic Options
Report Post

Quote Post

Quick Reply

Print Topic

Email Topic

1837 Views
FusionBB
FusionBB™ Version 2.1
©2003-2006 InteractivePHP, Inc.
Execution time: 1.109 seconds.   Total Queries: 16   Zlib Compression is on.
All times are (GMT -0800) Pacific. Current time is 09:31 PM
Top