jtaoj0
Newbie
Posts: 14
Reg: 12-28-23
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12-31-24 09:02 PM - Post#2876697
Hi all, I need to pull my three speed floor shift transmission to either regasket or just replace. Near as I can tell, it might be easier to pull the engine and trans together. The front sheet metal is off at this point. Alternatively, it sounds like I need to lift it from inside the car. First question...what would those with experience recommend? Pull the motor and trans or just the trans.
Second question, regardless of what I do to pull the trans, how do I pull the shifter out of the transmission?
Thanks in advance. Jeff
Edited by jtaoj0 on 01-01-25 12:54 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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1971BB427
Contributor
Posts: 622
Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
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01-02-25 09:48 AM - Post#2876741
In response to jtaoj0
I've never pulled one of those trans, but usually the top plate with shifter unbolts together to get the shifter out. Might be able to remove the pin for the shifter, but that's usually easier on a bench than in the car.
I'd probably consider moving the axle back vs. pulling engine/trans to get the trans out. I know Joe DiOrio at Old Car Parts told me he can change a clutch out without moving the enclosed driveline and can somehow slide the trans back enough to swap clutch and pressure plate out. But I've never watched him do it, so not sure how he does it without moving rear axle or engine? He did it this summer on a friend's car and my friend said he got it in a few hours.
1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350
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jtaoj0
Newbie
Posts: 14
Reg: 12-28-23
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01-03-25 05:59 PM - Post#2876778
In response to 1971BB427
Thanks 1971.
I took a stab at it today and it was scary easy to pull the shifter. I need to pull it to get the trans out for the most part. Four bolts on the top plate and it fell over lol. That removes the top plate with the shifter attached. If the shifter only was to be removed, there are four bolts as well, but just around the shifter base. That has a spring inside...the base...under some serious pressure. I read through the service manual and it sounded way more complicated than that.
On the motor...I did a compression test as it has some pretty good blow by and smokes. The compression test was coming in around 90 to 100, so quite a bit lower than it should be. They were all within that 90 to 100. I was hoping to not pull the motor to rebuild, but I just can't leave like that. It runs well, but seems tired given the smoke and blow by.
Anyway, I really appreciate your response and thought I would loop back to the forum to say..four bolts and don't let the shifter hit you in the head 
Anywone have an excellent 54+ 235 or 261 for sale? I am in Utah... I know, I know...I should put it in the "Wanted" section, but who knows, maybe luck will smile?
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1971BB427
Contributor
Posts: 622
Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
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01-04-25 09:37 AM - Post#2876792
In response to jtaoj0
Compression tests are important, but wont tell you the condition of the oil rings. They just tell you how much compression your cylinders build. I've done compression tests on motors and gotten 125-150 lbs. and they still smoked. Usually because the engines sat too long and lower oil wiper rings had stuck and let oil past. Sometimes putting lightweight oil in the cylinders through the spark plug holes will free the rings and stop smoking, or reduce it. Might even raise compression if those rings are also stuck?
But likely only a re-ring, and cylinder honing, or boring will fix it. And your idea of going to a later 235 is better as the oiling system is much improved!
1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350
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sidworks
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3550
Loc: Saturna Island, B.C.
Reg: 12-03-05
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01-08-25 10:29 PM - Post#2876910
In response to jtaoj0
To remove the shifter there is a round domed piece at the top of shifter tower. If i can remember one pushes down on it and it twists off . The shifter should lift out (it has been 60 years). There is a bell at the back of the trans where driveshaft connects. Undo the 4 bolts, at the back end of that bell sleeve is a threaded collar, undue that ( it serves a felt seal retainer) and slide it back. You may have to give that bell and sleeve a little smack and it should slide back to reveal and undo the joint. One shouldn’t have to pull the rear end back. The d/shaft should be able to go up or down to be able to pull the trans back. Remove speedo cable and pan under clutch,trans bolts 2 top bolts outside top and 2 bolts inside b/housing bottom
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