Gain extra benefits by becoming a Supporting Member Click here find out how!

Classic Performance Products Nu-Relics Power Windows
American Auto Wire Hellwig Products IncPerformance Rod & Custom
Danchuk Catalog



Username Post: oil pan gasket replacement        (Topic#375301)
brasii 
Contributor
Posts: 193

Loc: FRANCE
Reg: 11-09-07
07-07-24 11:29 AM - Post#2871556    

Hi all ! I need your opinion for oil pan gasket replacement( for my 283 , manuel transmission ) . In the chassis manual ,I read : "disconnect and remove starter". I don' t understand why it' s necessary , because if I raise the engine ( to insert wood block under engine mounts), all engine and transmission will be up , isn'it ?
Surely , ,I 'm not the first here having to do this job , so thank you for your help

impala 66 convertible


 


ss3964spd 
"6th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 4672
ss3964spd
Loc: Fairfax, Va
Reg: 12-21-00
07-07-24 12:07 PM - Post#2871559    
    In response to brasii

Pretty sure you need to remove the starter to be able to get to all the oil pan bolts.

Dan

If I recall correctly my memory is excellent. My ability to access it is not.


 
brasii 
Contributor
Posts: 193

Loc: FRANCE
Reg: 11-09-07
07-07-24 01:17 PM - Post#2871560    
    In response to ss3964spd

OK !

impala 66 convertible


 
brasii 
Contributor
Posts: 193

Loc: FRANCE
Reg: 11-09-07
07-09-24 10:49 AM - Post#2871611    
    In response to brasii

And now it's a pain for disconnecting steering rod ( pitman rod) at idler arm :I tried with big hammer ( little afraid of damaging something ) , tool remover ( no place to put it ) nothing works .. I want to heat it : no problem ?

impala 66 convertible


 
ss3964spd 
"6th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 4672
ss3964spd
Loc: Fairfax, Va
Reg: 12-21-00
07-09-24 12:07 PM - Post#2871615    
    In response to brasii

I would avoid heating it, you'll likely damage the rubber grease boot.

There are some special tools you can use to separate the joints. Google "tie rod end separator". The most common tool is the 2 finger "fork".

Dan

If I recall correctly my memory is excellent. My ability to access it is not.


 
brasii 
Contributor
Posts: 193

Loc: FRANCE
Reg: 11-09-07
07-09-24 02:26 PM - Post#2871619    
    In response to ss3964spd

OK , I 'll try it

impala 66 convertible


 
toro455 
"9th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1312
toro455
Loc: Western NY
Reg: 06-15-02
07-09-24 07:17 PM - Post#2871629    
    In response to brasii

I'm trying to remember exactly what that connection looks like on the Impala (I've been under too many cars and they blend together).

If it's like a tie rod end connection IMO there's nothing better than the tool they sell at HF. It was the best $11 I ever spent. It looks like a pair of pliers but where one jaw is a fork and the other "handle" end has a jack screw. Operate it by hand and get it tight. Once I do that I sometimes walk away and within about 10-15minutes I've heard "TUNK" as it pops the taper out. You end-up getting a feel for how much torque is needed. Sometimes tapping even lightly on the side of the part the conical taper is going through, which under the load of the tool, will also pop it.

I cannot recall exactly which connection it was but I couldn't use that tool so I used a pointed attachment on an air chisel. Hold it firmly against the end and of the stud and you can drive the taper out.

Edit: Added photo

Scott

Attachment: HF_TieRodEndTool.JPG (19.9 KB) 10 View(s)


HF Tie rod end separator




Edited by toro455 on 07-09-24 07:21 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
65_Impala 
Very Senior Member
Posts: 5026

Reg: 12-29-02
07-10-24 04:20 AM - Post#2871630    
    In response to brasii

For tapered joints the best luck I've had using hammering is using 2 big hammers and hitting both sides at the same time. I've found I can smack away on one side without it coming apart but almost every time hitting it with both hammers gets it done in a couple of smacks.



 
DHMelton 
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 361
DHMelton
Loc: Central Arizona
Reg: 04-10-22
07-10-24 08:14 AM - Post#2871632    
    In response to 65_Impala

I have small and larger pitman arm puller.

The small one fits the tie rod ends and they come off real easy, no hammering, no dust seal damage.

Doug



 
brasii 
Contributor
Posts: 193

Loc: FRANCE
Reg: 11-09-07
07-10-24 10:48 AM - Post#2871638    
    In response to toro455

Thanks for all these ideas ; I' ve the tool you show , but it can't work because there isn't enough space to insert the fork. First , I' ll try tomorrow the 2 big hammers, after that if necessary , a correctly sized (approx 35 mms) pickle fork

impala 66 convertible


 
toro455 
"9th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1312
toro455
Loc: Western NY
Reg: 06-15-02
07-10-24 11:22 AM - Post#2871640    
    In response to brasii

The air chisel idea is what I've used if that tool won't fit. Loosen the nut but don't remove it, regardless of whether you use a hammer or air chisel, because if threads are damaged at all threading the nut off will help straighten them.

I prefer the air chisel because you can directly hold it against the center of the stud and it impacts so rapidly and so concentrated you don't need a coordinated hit from both sides. I don't recall if I held the center link or not. I did have one where my compact air chisel wasn't enough but the larger (standard size) Ingersoll Rand knocked it out in a heartbeat.

Edit: And the counterpoint to not removing the nut completely is there's nothing to grab to stop the stud from twisting if the threads are damaged. So you take some risk either way. The air chisel IMO is more precise and very effective.

Good luck,
Scott



Edited by toro455 on 07-10-24 11:25 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
65_Impala 
Very Senior Member
Posts: 5026

Reg: 12-29-02
07-10-24 01:52 PM - Post#2871646    
    In response to toro455

That's taking a real chance of damaging the stud by air chiseling on the end of it. Pushing it back into the hole and using an impact to remove the nut after might be the best bet, just take care you don't spin it in the hole too much.

Using a pickle fork can easily damage the boot.

There is no one easy solution that works for every joint. Sometimes, the special tools don't work. Sometimes, there isn't any space to hammer them.



 
toro455 
"9th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1312
toro455
Loc: Western NY
Reg: 06-15-02
07-10-24 02:29 PM - Post#2871647    
    In response to 65_Impala

65,
If you are holding the air chisel against the end of the stud, before you press the trigger, it's a quick tap and release. There aren't perfect options for some situations but to me it's the most controlled option I've tried. The HF tool is really the best but there are situations, like the OP mentioned, there's no place to slip the fork.

Edit: To be clear I'm not using the actual chisel shaped bit, but instead the one which looks like a dull tipped cone.

Scott



Edited by toro455 on 07-10-24 02:30 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Roauto 
Newbie
Posts: 3

Age: 65
Loc: NY
Reg: 04-05-24
07-16-24 03:17 PM - Post#2871840    
    In response to brasii

Can you unbolt the idler arm from the frame? should be held on with two bolts



 


Icon Legend Permissions Topic Options
Report Post

Quote Post

Quick Reply

Print Topic

Email Topic

1002 Views
FusionBB
FusionBB™ Version 2.1
©2003-2006 InteractivePHP, Inc.
Execution time: 0.347 seconds.   Total Queries: 18   Zlib Compression is on.
All times are (GMT -0800) Pacific. Current time is 04:00 PM
Top