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Username Post: Electric Pusher Fan Wiring        (Topic#375234)
elvis 
"10th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 944
elvis
Loc: Ontario
Reg: 11-10-05
06-22-24 11:12 AM - Post#2871121    

Hi everyone,
A couple years ago, we installed a Vintage Air "Super Flow Auxiliary Fan". V.A. part # 32007-VUF. We wired the rad fan into the 5 amp CB radio connector of the accessory harness of the American Auto Wire fuse panel. Ever since we installed the fan, it would automatically start when the engine temperature reached 180 to 185 degrees. That's good! The fan would bring the temperature below 180 degrees. That's good! Once the fan started running, it wouldn't shut-off. That's strange. We didn't install a manual override switch (yet).

Last summer, we noticed, once the fan was running and we lifted the hood, the fan would occasionally shut-off when we closed the hood. I spoke with Don Bock at AAW and he suggested, we could have a faulty relay or loose connection. Good advice! Don remains an invaluable resource at AAW.

We finally installed the replacement, 30 amp relay and started the car today. When the engine warmed-up and climbed past 185 degrees, the rad fan didn't turn-on. Strange. Once the engine temperature climbed to about 205 degrees, we shut-off the engine and placed a floor fan in front of the rad to help cool the temperature. By fluke, we turned the ignition key to accessory and the fan turned-on. Strange. We re-started the engine and the fan didn't turn-on. Strange.

Is it possible the 5 amp circuit is causing an issue?
Should we wire the rad fan through a 30 amp circuit?
Any other ideas?
We definitely want to install a manual on-off switch.

Thanks

Pouring money between the wheels.


Edited by elvis on 06-22-24 11:18 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 


GreatNorthWoods 
"9th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1599
GreatNorthWoods
Age: 82
Loc: Littleton, New Hampshire,...
Reg: 03-31-02
06-23-24 02:43 AM - Post#2871132    
    In response to elvis

I'm not a wiring guru, but it sounds like you may have wired the new relay into the accessory side of the ignition switch.

Vern

1953 Chevy Belair Sport Coupe - 355 Chevy V8, 700-R4, 4-wheel disc brakes, Ididit column, cruise/tilt,'59 Vette Steering Wheel, A/C

1930 DeSoto CK Business Coupe- 350 Chevy Crate V8, 4-wheel disc brakes, TH400, S-10 Rear, Heidt's IFS, A/C


 
bobb 
Super Senior Member
Posts: 6676

Loc: paradise
Reg: 09-05-03
06-23-24 11:29 AM - Post#2871146    
    In response to elvis

i dont understand how you wired it but.
i like these relays BOSCH 0332002168 Normal Open Power Relay - Pins, 12 V, 75 A - Single.
i would run paralell 20 amp fuses or a single 40 amp maxi fuse or circuit breakers. the 40 fuse holder is huge so the twin 20s are easier to fit. 10 or 12 gauge wire depending on how long. signal hot to the sensor can be the cb wire. yes it is overkill but its better than overheat. the manual switch should only be used to override the system. if you have a big enough switch you can over ride the relay but thats some big wiring.

70 L camino, grampa engine, g-force 5 spd, road rage suspension. Pray first before all else fails.


Edited by bobb on 06-23-24 11:31 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
acardon 
Ultra Senior Member
Posts: 11492

Loc: DFW TEXAS
Reg: 03-25-05
06-29-24 03:30 PM - Post#2871342    
    In response to elvis

  • elvis Said:

Is it possible the 5 amp circuit is causing an issue?
Should we wire the rad fan through a 30 amp circuit?
Any other ideas?

Thanks



I suspect that you pushed a terminal out of the relay socket when you put the new relay in. It was probably loose all the time.
The 5 amp circuit is OK for the relay coil circuit. The power to the relay needs to be on at least a 30 or 40 amp circuit as suggested and it probably is, if it was wired like suggested on page 8 of the fan install instructions. https://store-xovjmui41g.mybigcommerce.com/content...

Don
66 Corvair (driving)
57 2dr HT (driving)
56 2dr HT (waiting to be restored)


 
elvis 
"10th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 944
elvis
Loc: Ontario
Reg: 11-10-05
07-02-24 05:49 PM - Post#2871412    
    In response to acardon

First, thanks to everyone for chiming-in.

We again tried the original relay and started the engine. The fan turned-on automatically when the engine temperature reached 185 degrees. The fan brought the temperature down to approximately 170 degrees. That works. We're still not certain what temperature needs to register for the fan to shut-off. At this point, we were happy the fan started running when the engine temperature climbed though.

I started nosing around the wiring harness, looking for loose connections. The relay connections appear intact. We found the powered wire from the fan had a wear mark through the insulation to the wire. This was located where the wire was touching a metal frame. Oh wow. Can you say short circuit?

We disconnected the wires from the fan and added extensions to the allow for better positioning. We also added wire loom protection in the same area where the powered wire issue was discovered. We re-started the car, the fan kicked-in at 185 degrees and the temperature dropped to 170 degrees. We're happy this worked. We still want to install a fail-safe switch though.

Pouring money between the wheels.


Edited by elvis on 07-02-24 05:53 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
elvis 
"10th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 944
elvis
Loc: Ontario
Reg: 11-10-05
07-07-24 04:06 PM - Post#2871567    
    In response to elvis

Happy Independence Day weekend to everyone in the USA.
Well, today we fired-up the car and the fan clicked on at about 180 degrees. That's good!
After allowing the car to idle for about 10 minutes, we pulled the car into reverse and rolled the car outside. The rpm's of the fan dropped-off and rev'd back to normal before clicking off. When the temperature of the motor climbed to 195 degrees, we shut-off the car and put a floor fan in front of the engine to provide cooling. We turned the ignition key to "accessory" to determine if the fan would engage. It wouldn't. We then grounded the temp sender in the intake manifold to an oil filler tube (mounted in the intake manifold) and the fan turned-on. We changed the temp sender and the same thing happened.
AAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR RGGGGGH!
I'm going to phone the crew at Vintage Air on Monday morning.

Pouring money between the wheels.


 
acardon 
Ultra Senior Member
Posts: 11492

Loc: DFW TEXAS
Reg: 03-25-05
07-08-24 10:14 AM - Post#2871587    
    In response to elvis

That's a pretty simple circuit to trouble shoot. Pull the relay out and jumper terminal 30 to 87 and see if it ever turns off. It won't hurt the fan to run continously for an extended time, so give it a good test. If it doesn't shut off, you know the power circuit is good.
Then ground the sensor for a while with relay in and see if it stays running. If not, then ground terminal 86.
Then jumper 12 volts straight to terminal 85. This should tell you which leg of the circuit has a bad connection.

Don
66 Corvair (driving)
57 2dr HT (driving)
56 2dr HT (waiting to be restored)


 
elvis 
"10th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 944
elvis
Loc: Ontario
Reg: 11-10-05
07-12-24 03:39 PM - Post#2871703    
    In response to acardon

Thanks Don.
I am embarrassed. We had the white "temperature sender" wire (from the relay) connected to the same temp. sender in the intake manifold as the Classic Instruments temp. gauge is connected.
Well, sheesh.

Today we ordered a single wire, electric fan temperature sender switch and 1/2" pipe thread adapter from Vintage Air. The rating is 192 on & 182 off. Overall, It would be a good idea for V.A. to include this in their fan & wiring kit. We are keeping the "now spare" relay that we ordered from V.A. while troubleshooting.

We'll plug this temp. sender switch into the head at the front of the engine on the driver side. We're still running a 180 degree stat. The dash gauge temp. sender is located next to the water neck/stat. Since the head will be approximately 10 degrees hotter than the gauge reading from the intake manifold, we expect the fan will engage when the temperature reads approximately 180 to 185 degrees on the dash gauge.

The good news? The electric fan works. We engaged the fan by touching the wire from the relay to the engine block. I will be happier when the temp. sender switch arrives from V.A. and we can properly complete this installation.

Thanks also to XVETTE for making time to trouble shoot this with me over the phone.

Pouring money between the wheels.


Edited by elvis on 07-12-24 03:53 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 


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