 toro455
"9th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1319
Loc: Western NY
Reg: 06-15-02
|
04-25-24 04:50 PM - Post#2869174
I think I've been making some topics a little too specific. I'm following up on the arm rest backing options topic because I'm cleaning up the original panels and doing some dash related things. Here's the arm rest backing plate topic:
https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?t...
Arm rest backing clips: The factory retaining clips, for the OE backing plates, seem to be designed to go on once and lock-in for good. I did finally remove them without destroying the plastic blades molded into the original backing plates but it made me think these are not a part you want to test fit (one and done without a risk of breaking).
I removed them with an angled pick but I had to tip one side of the clip over the edge of the blade and they rock it until it came off. I'm adding a photo for those who don't know what they look like.
Door panel carpet: I've started to clean the door panels. I need to dye the lower carpets. I bought some dye by "Rit" but it's more of a clothing dye, directions are for a washing machine, so I was wondering if anyone has had success using something like that. I don't like the idea of some of the sprays which are more like a paint than dye (concerned about flaking or dusting off long term with a paint).
Door panel silver line trim: The lower portion of the "L" shaped lines are also good but the lower ~1" has some "chatter". I started thinking of clearing it to protect it from getting worse. I realized I would need something to carefully brush on and I thought maybe clear nail polish. I then found some chrome-like nail polish which is called soft-gel and cures under UV light. I think that allows it to wet-out without brush lines. It would be difficult to do a large part but the instructions call for an initial coat of black or white and that sounds very similar to the "spray chrome" which seems to look quite good if done properly.
Scott
Edit: Added heading to different sections.
Edited by toro455 on 04-25-24 06:37 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
|
|
toro455
"9th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1319
Loc: Western NY
Reg: 06-15-02
|
04-25-24 07:07 PM - Post#2869181
In response to toro455
Package tray area: I have a very nice looking piece of pre-cut jute; made in the USA. It seems over sized. I expected it to basically be cut to the size of the flat area. Should it be pushed up towards the back window edge? It's also a little wider than I would naturally think. Does it get trimmed or pushed up about an inch into the sail panel area?
Should adhesive be applied to the back so it doesn't shift? I have both the Factory Assembly Manual and the Fisher Guide Manual for 1968 and neither seems to show anything regarding the package tray area.
What are the raised areas, with 2 holes in a plateau, between the speaker cutouts and the sail panel area, used for?
Speaker Mounting:
Rear: I made some nice tweeter mounts for the oval cutouts in the sail panels. My replacement sail panels are Velcro style and so I don't think the oval cutouts are used. I will post photos.
Front: I'm working on a replacement bracket with gasket to hug the dash like the 4x10" mount did but for 3.5" speakers. I'm adding a rear support for the extra weight. I'm thinking of having the rear support basically follow the dash and then have a foot which sits above the radio where the AC cars normally have the outlet duct. So that extra bracket would likely only work for the non AC dash.
Scott
|
impalaman1
Member
Posts: 206
Loc: East Bay, Ca
Reg: 10-02-02
|
04-26-24 10:48 AM - Post#2869199
In response to toro455
Scott. The Rit is good. you can do it straight or mix with water in a spray bottle and spray it on. I mask the rest of the panel off pretty good. It does dry stiff but isn't like paint. you can control how wet it gets with the spray bottle so it doesn't warp the panel. I have used it on the carpet as well for any sun faded parts.
| 1968 impala with lots of custom stuff |
|
toro455
"9th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1319
Loc: Western NY
Reg: 06-15-02
|
04-26-24 01:19 PM - Post#2869201
In response to impalaman1
Scott. The Rit is good. you can do it straight or mix with water in a spray bottle and spray it on. I mask the rest of the panel off pretty good. It does dry stiff but isn't like paint. you can control how wet it gets with the spray bottle so it doesn't warp the panel. I have used it on the carpet as well for any sun faded parts.
Perfect, thanks for the tips! I was thinking of either a spray bottle or dabbing with a sponge. That lower carpet just looks sun faded as you mentioned so I will make certain I mask around that area.
In the instructions they mention, for some fabrics like cotton or rayon, using some salt and others, such as nylon, using some vinegar. I think the looped carpet was nylon but cannot recall. I don't want the car to smell like vinegar but I was wondering if a very small amount might somehow help the dye to take.
I also bought some of their color fast product.
Thanks again!
Scott
|
toro455
"9th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1319
Loc: Western NY
Reg: 06-15-02
|
04-26-24 05:14 PM - Post#2869213
In response to toro455
Armed with the above post I grabbed a spray bottle, a 1" sponge brush and a blue kitchen sponge. As well a bottle of hot water and some vinegar.
At first I tried to get fancy and I mixed the Rit, some colorstay, hot water, about a 1/4 tspn of white vinegar. I tried dabbing and it didn't seem to be as dramatic as I thought it should (too diluted). I put straight Rit in the spray bottle...I guess I should have verified it was a working spray bottle..
I moved to the 1" foam brush, not bad... I went to the kitchen sponge. I think that was best to use for the first course. You can kind of rub it in in circles with the kitchen sponge. I followed by working it in with the 1" brush. At times I applied directly to the foam or the sponge and I also poured some directly on the carpet but quickly spread it out with the sponge or foam brush.
I think it went well. I didn't mask but I had a paper towel and wiped anything off the which ended-up on the vinyl. I used the spray bottle mix on the sponge to start which was everything except the vinegar and a heavier dose of Rit. I also used all of that initial mix with the foam brush as a second application.
Here's a photo of before and after.
Scott
|
toro455
"9th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1319
Loc: Western NY
Reg: 06-15-02
|
04-26-24 05:22 PM - Post#2869214
In response to toro455
Door panel window felts: I still need to change the window felts on the door panels. I just watched a video by Steele Rubber Products and they say at the end the staples can be replaced by window installation urethane adhesive?!
I never would have thought that would be a reliable long term solution. Has anyone else tried it?
Here's their video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Asm9v40zeg
Here's a Classic Industries video replacing factory staples with staples on the door panel. If you just want to see that part start at 6min 51 seconds:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jvn4bA9c0-Q
Edit: Added Classic Industries 70-81 Camaro video which also used staples.
Edited by toro455 on 04-26-24 05:32 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
|
toro455
"9th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1319
Loc: Western NY
Reg: 06-15-02
|
04-27-24 05:32 AM - Post#2869228
In response to toro455
Door panel window felt staples: Does anyone know where to buy replacement staples? I think I might try that based on the Classic Industries video. I will try to measure the originals. I still need to find the new felts I bought.
Door panel vapor barrier: Mine are not ripped but have some "waves". I was thinking of trying to iron them but I guess the OE shield had some sort of wax.
I wanted to find a roll of the material and just cut some out. I thought I'd found it before but cannot figure where or how I found it. In searching the MOPAR guys are using 6mil plastic. I'm wondering if that might not be a better idea. It's certainly easier to find. That said I do like to use the OE type material if there was nothing wrong with it. Any ideas?
Scott
|
toro455
"9th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1319
Loc: Western NY
Reg: 06-15-02
|
04-28-24 12:11 PM - Post#2869265
In response to toro455
Door panel window felt staple removal:
The original staples were difficult to remove. I finally came-up with a way to remove the staples which worked well.. after initially trying to unbend, pick and pry without a lot of luck.
I thought I could slice the staple in half and then pry each side up. That would allow removal without needing to unfold the rolled over area in the back significantly. That didn't work well because slicing in half left too little to leverage the cut halves.
Instead I sliced directly over one leg. I could then poke the leg with the slice out with the point of a pick directly over the round cross section of the leg. The long cross-piece, still connected to the opposite leg, was then long enough to bend up slightly with a screwdriver. Once it's bent up it can be grabbed with a needle-nose plier to straight and it can be then pushed with the pliers through the hole.
I took some photos. Any other way requires a lot of force and the staples are so tightly stapled they aren't easy to pick or pry before slicing.
Scott
|
toro455
"9th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1319
Loc: Western NY
Reg: 06-15-02
|
04-28-24 12:31 PM - Post#2869267
In response to toro455
Radio bezel boss repair:
My original bezel was ground before I got the car to allow an aftermarket radio to sit flush but it damaged what was otherwise in very good shape.
I have a replacement but I see a mark in the heater control surround and the thin lower edge is a little distorted so I thought about trying to repairing the ground bosses around the knobs.
I modeled the profile of the bezel and created a piece to essentially insert and bond.
I 3D printed some test fit parts. I think this should work and should be almost invisible if finished well.
Scott
|
 Magnetocheck
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 481
Age: 69
Loc: Charlotte, NC, USA
Reg: 09-05-22
|
 04-28-24 12:43 PM - Post#2869268
In response to toro455
Pretty cool! Let us know how it looks when finished!
Bob
'65 Impala SS 396 Convertible
Member, National Impala Association |
|
toro455
"9th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1319
Loc: Western NY
Reg: 06-15-02
|
04-28-24 12:54 PM - Post#2869270
In response to Magnetocheck
Certainly Bob,
Fingers crossed I think it has promise. I don't know how common having one ground like this is but it looks like the same part might work on 67 and 68.
Scott
|
impalaman1
Member
Posts: 206
Loc: East Bay, Ca
Reg: 10-02-02
|
05-01-24 06:33 AM - Post#2869351
In response to toro455
nice work.
| 1968 impala with lots of custom stuff |
|
toro455
"9th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1319
Loc: Western NY
Reg: 06-15-02
|
05-03-24 08:58 PM - Post#2869463
In response to impalaman1
Thanks!
I had something called Gardz by Zinsser left over from treating a wall where the prior owner didn't bother to size prior to wallpapering. Gardz is used to essentially make drywall, which the outer layer has torn exposing the brown cardboard, water resistant.
My door panels aren't in bad shape but I thought I would treat them. I hope they will never need additional water resistance but I think it worked very well. I thought I would document it here in case someone else is looking for something like that. As you can see by the can the used product seems to adhere the lid like glue.
|
toro455
"9th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1319
Loc: Western NY
Reg: 06-15-02
|
05-07-24 06:03 PM - Post#2869649
In response to toro455
Here's one of the arm rests with the urethane version of the arm rest pad (original was vinyl over a foam).
I also started designing a speaker bracket for 2x 3.5" speakers in the dash. The photo is the surround gasket. I made it a little taller than the OE design to be certain the top of the speaker wouldn't touch the underside of the dash.
The radio bezel repairs from the professional 3D print place came today. I had them dyed in black. Provided they bond well they look quite good. After I paint the the mounting plate I will try to add the silver edge.
The photos of the speaker surround and arm rest were taken on top of the door panel where the Gardz was used.
Scott
|
Magnetocheck
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 481
Age: 69
Loc: Charlotte, NC, USA
Reg: 09-05-22
|
05-08-24 03:00 AM - Post#2869657
In response to toro455
 Looking good!
Bob
'65 Impala SS 396 Convertible
Member, National Impala Association |
|
Rick Dorion
"9th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 416
Loc: Accord, NY
Reg: 09-21-12
|
05-08-24 03:09 AM - Post#2869659
In response to Magnetocheck
Great job!
| 1967 Belair - LM7 5.3, Autogear M23Z, Global West, C5 brakes and rims. |
|
toro455
"9th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1319
Loc: Western NY
Reg: 06-15-02
|
05-11-24 01:48 PM - Post#2869749
In response to Rick Dorion
Thanks Rick and Bob,
Window felts - interior door panels: I ordered rivets from Jay-Cee Sales & Rivets
https://www.rivetsonline.com/
After discussing some alternatives I went with 1/8" painted black stainless rivets which they recommend a #30 drill for. Having now done the fronts those worked very well. The exact PN was PR43FFPB which is designed for 0.126 to -0.187". I measured the required thickness as 0.156" which fell essentially perfectly in the middle of the range.
I learned a few things while doing the job and lightly clamping/supporting was one of the most important items. I used 3 hand ratchet clamps. That worked perfectly once I realized that you could clamp lightly and the clamp would not easily slip off if you let the bar of the clamp lay against the back of the door panel. At first I naturally wanted to clamp with the clamps sitting roughly 45 degrees to the panel but they occasionally slipped off. Once I changed the orientation everything was very stable.
I recommend clamping along the entire edge because once you add a couple of rivets you won't be able to change the orientation. I started at one end and worked across the length.
For the first panel I did I used the replacement part pre-drilled staple locations as my guide, but there were only 6 locations whereas the OE panel had 10. I think 6 is enough but the final location could have been closer to the door lock ferule in my opinion. I thought about adding one more but it would have been about 1.5 inches away from the final position.
One the second panel I started on the door lock end and I placed where I thought was appropriate while roughly feeling underneath for the old OE staple holes and also keeping in mind the replacement part positions. I ended-up with 7 rivets.
Watch out for cutouts, and bump-outs, in the door edge steel because they're not obvious from the side you will be working on. I also looked at the door to see if there was anywhere a rivet might interfere with something. The only obvious potential thing to avoid was something about 3.5 to 4 inches from the front edge of the doors having to do with the vent windows. Likely there would be no issue but I spaced the rivets to miss that area.
I used a cobalt M42 #30 drill bit. It didn't slip and it drilled well through the stainless core and the steel of the door panel top. I will go back and paint around the back of the rivets. Steel is technically sacrificial to stainless nut there was no perfect material given you need to go through both stainless and plain steel.
I also shifted the rivet so that the edge would fall completely in a flat section of the replacement felt and as well in an area where it wouldn't be blocked by the tight corner of the upper door panel steel.
I once had an issue with rivet mandrels breaking from another source and that's why I mentioned Jay-Cee by name. I've never had any issues with their rivets and their technical advisors are good.
Scott
Edited by toro455 on 05-11-24 01:56 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
|
Magnetocheck
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 481
Age: 69
Loc: Charlotte, NC, USA
Reg: 09-05-22
|
05-11-24 02:24 PM - Post#2869750
In response to toro455
Looks really nice, Rick. I did basically the same clampy thing with mine but drilled for SS staples. This post and your photos should definitely help others with the same chore.
Bob
'65 Impala SS 396 Convertible
Member, National Impala Association |
|
toro455
"9th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1319
Loc: Western NY
Reg: 06-15-02
|
05-14-24 06:10 PM - Post#2869864
In response to Magnetocheck
Arm rest screws: They were all present before the car was painted. Now I can find 3 total. I thought ok no problem they're long but they look like a common screw. It doesn't seem so.
I looked on eBay and there are listings but when I count the threads everything listed is about half the length. It is hard to believe they need to be almost 2 inches long because the head stops relatively close to the arm rest base but I certainly don't want something too short.
This isn't my only car which isn't supported by the aftermarket but something which seems this simple is frustrating to the point of near tears. I just cannot believe it and I cannot believe literally nobody listing on eBay lists the dimensions for what they're offering.
Scott
Edit: I found a Mopar listing for a screw which actually has the dimensions listed as 1/4" x 1 3/4" and when I count the threads it seems to be the same pitch. That's the closest I've found so far. Unreal.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/335064599779
The description by "Firestone Collectibles" MOPAR Arm Rest Screws Set of 4 67-76 A B C BODY NEW
"Brand new screws for arm rest pads. 1-3/4" x 1/4" Pan Phillips. The applications listed are just kind of a guide line. Should fit at least 67-70 B, 67-71 C, and 67-76 A bodies. May fit others."
Edited by Tony on 05-16-24 06:32 AM. Reason for edit: As an eBay Partner, ChevyTalk may be compensated if you make a purchase
|
Magnetocheck
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 481
Age: 69
Loc: Charlotte, NC, USA
Reg: 09-05-22
|
05-15-24 05:35 AM - Post#2869875
In response to toro455
Hubbard's has them:
Arm Rest Screws
Bob
'65 Impala SS 396 Convertible
Member, National Impala Association |
|
toro455
"9th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1319
Loc: Western NY
Reg: 06-15-02
|
05-15-24 07:07 PM - Post#2869906
In response to Magnetocheck
Bob,
I counted the threads and I think those are the 1.75" variety. There was one seller on eBay who also wrote back and his are 1.75 inches. He also said they are #14 which, according to the chart I found, have a slightly smaller major diameter. If they actually should be nr 14 I was able to find them on Bolt Depot. I was reluctant to try them because of the measurement I made on the OE screw.
The Mopar part is listed as 1/4". Once they arrive I will measure the major diameter to see. If they're nr 14 then I guess "everyone" is selling the same part.
Scott
|
|
Gain extra benefits by becoming a Supporting Member 
Attachment: 
