 motthollow
"12th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 291
Loc: South Carolina
Reg: 01-27-10
|
08-31-23 06:54 PM - Post#2862159
Not sure, but I think the steering column in my modified ’56 chevy may be from a mid-70s GM product that used an external ignition key on the dashboard. After I bought the car I removed the column to upgrade the gauges and install new wiring and found a rat’s nest of tangled and bare wires. I should be able to deal with that but I do have some questions about the column:
1. The directional signals worked, but the hollow turn lever won’t stay attached to the short splined shaft in the column. Epoxy or other suggestions?
2. Besides the action of the turn signal lever what is (was?) the twisting feature of the splined shaft used for?
3. The wire coming from the base of the hollow turn lever connects to a button on the end of the lever. What is (was) the button used for?
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
My '56 is on Tony's Lets See Your Ride post on 55-57 Modified forum p.3
"None of my cars will ever be finished... just that some are further along than others."
'56 Sedan Delivery, '55 2nd series pickup, '38 Chevy project |
|
|
55MAS
Senior Member
Posts: 1674
Loc: North Coast, USA
Reg: 12-19-01
|
09-01-23 05:48 AM - Post#2862167
In response to motthollow
1. The directional signals worked, but the hollow turn lever won’t stay attached to the short splined shaft in the column. Epoxy or other suggestions?
need a new lever but the splines look ruined - see last comment
2. Besides the action of the turn signal lever what is (was?) the twisting feature of the splined shaft used for?
Wipers
3. The wire coming from the base of the hollow turn lever connects to a button on the end of the lever. What is (was) the button used for?
WS washer spray or possibly cruise
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
That column is a mess both mechanically and electrically and it would be best to replace it with a quality aftermarket unit.
BTW - no idea of what that column came out of as it looks way too short compared to products made/sold for direct installation in a trifive. Post some pictures of the column as installed from under the hood and inside, should help to identify what you have.
|
motthollow
"12th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 291
Loc: South Carolina
Reg: 01-27-10
|
09-01-23 06:42 AM - Post#2862171
In response to 55MAS
Thanks for the quick (and accurate) reply. The under-dash two-speed wiper motor in my '56 is already controlled by a dashboard switch. Don't need or want window washer or cruise control. The column may look outdated and needing paint, but it has a Lecarra spoke wheel, the horn works, tilts, and connects to a CPP 605 power steering box. As for photos, the column is already out. For hundreds of dollars for a new column plus hardware and aggrevation, unless there is another quick fix, I think I'll first try some epoxy. But thanks for the information you supplied 
My '56 is on Tony's Lets See Your Ride post on 55-57 Modified forum p.3
"None of my cars will ever be finished... just that some are further along than others."
'56 Sedan Delivery, '55 2nd series pickup, '38 Chevy project |
|
55MAS
Senior Member
Posts: 1674
Loc: North Coast, USA
Reg: 12-19-01
|
09-01-23 11:16 AM - Post#2862183
In response to motthollow
Thanks for the quick (and accurate) reply. The under-dash two-speed wiper motor in my '56 is already controlled by a dashboard switch. Don't need or want window washer or cruise control. The column may look outdated and needing paint, but it has a Lecarra spoke wheel, the horn works, tilts, and connects to a CPP 605 power steering box. As for photos, the column is already out. For hundreds of dollars for a new column plus hardware and aggrevation, unless there is another quick fix, I think I'll first try some epoxy. But thanks for the information you supplied
The broken lever may also control the bright switch for the headlights, by pulling it toward the steering wheel, or do you have a floor switch?
If you don't have a floor switch that could lessen use on the signal lever.
You need to find out what that column is out of for possible future issues.
I think that a replacement lever would be better than epoxy. You may have additional trouble down the road.
|
motthollow
"12th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 291
Loc: South Carolina
Reg: 01-27-10
|
09-02-23 07:18 PM - Post#2862219
In response to 55MAS
I have 3 GM columns from the 60's or 70's in my garage but none use a splined lever. I've used JB Weld in the past and it has never failed me. My first attempt will clean out the shaft with a sharp file and use a little vaseline as a releasing agent to try and reform the spline on the lever. Yes it has a foot controlled high beam switch so whatever the wire was there for is irrelevant (the only reason I'll leave the wire there is if the lever did fall out it won't fall on the floor).
My '56 is on Tony's Lets See Your Ride post on 55-57 Modified forum p.3
"None of my cars will ever be finished... just that some are further along than others."
'56 Sedan Delivery, '55 2nd series pickup, '38 Chevy project |
|
4dr 57
"10th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 4827
Loc: Texas Hill Country
Reg: 11-10-04
|
09-10-23 07:40 AM - Post#2862440
In response to motthollow
I have 3 GM columns from the 60's or 70's in my garage but none use a splined lever. I've used JB Weld in the past and it has never failed me. My first attempt will clean out the shaft with a sharp file and use a little vaseline as a releasing agent to try and reform the spline on the lever. Yes it has a foot controlled high beam switch so whatever the wire was there for is irrelevant (the only reason I'll leave the wire there is if the lever did fall out it won't fall on the floor).
Looks like a pretty cool hook up but for some added options that you don't want but need to keep. Why not entertain an R&R? You will probably discovery along the way to what this is for and that went where.
|
bobb
Super Senior Member
Posts: 6414
Loc: paradise
Reg: 09-05-03
|
09-17-23 10:21 AM - Post#2862615
In response to motthollow
i just recently replaced my column and brazed the lever together after taking it apart. no glue will last very long. the button can be used for many things depending if its a momentary or on-off switch. run it to a relay and it does whatever you want it to.
| 70 L camino, grampa engine, g-force 5 spd, road rage suspension. Pray first before all else fails. |
|
Algoma56
Contributor
Posts: 759
Loc: Sault Ste. Marie, ON, Can...
Reg: 03-14-05
|
09-20-23 11:00 PM - Post#2862706
In response to motthollow
Do you have enough "meat" to drill and tap lever for a small set screw that will tighten up against the splined stub?
Edited by Algoma56 on 09-20-23 11:01 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
|
motthollow
"12th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 291
Loc: South Carolina
Reg: 01-27-10
|
09-22-23 06:53 PM - Post#2862768
In response to 4dr 57
Trying to figure out what R&R means.
????
My '56 is on Tony's Lets See Your Ride post on 55-57 Modified forum p.3
"None of my cars will ever be finished... just that some are further along than others."
'56 Sedan Delivery, '55 2nd series pickup, '38 Chevy project |
|
motthollow
"12th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 291
Loc: South Carolina
Reg: 01-27-10
|
09-22-23 06:57 PM - Post#2862769
In response to Algoma56
Wouldn't be enough room to insert or tighten the set screw. Time will tell if the epoxy will hold. "Nobody will die."
My '56 is on Tony's Lets See Your Ride post on 55-57 Modified forum p.3
"None of my cars will ever be finished... just that some are further along than others."
'56 Sedan Delivery, '55 2nd series pickup, '38 Chevy project |
|
4dr 57
"10th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 4827
Loc: Texas Hill Country
Reg: 11-10-04
|
09-24-23 08:41 AM - Post#2862792
In response to motthollow
Trying to figure out what R&R means.
????
Some form of Remove and Repair..IDK exactly having missed the experience you are confronted with however..
It almost looks like there was a snap ring of some sort at the bottom of the splined shaft? That's not goinng to help repair the stripped female part but it may help stablize it once you get around to removing the tube, then replace it with, "a fix" of some sort.
Perhapse you can meazure the i.d and o.d of the two pieces, and use a piece of brass sheet to act as a press fit, allowing a tad xtra in thickness to take in the splines. That is if the female tube is the same thickness (wall wise) throughout as pictured, and not just at the end, or made of pot metal.
An insert made of tough plastic may work as well providing you can heat it just before fitting it up.
|
|
Gain extra benefits by becoming a Supporting Member 
Attachment: 
