S10mk
Poster
Posts: 57
Reg: 01-03-19
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04-19-23 06:54 AM - Post#2857021
Hi everyone, I’m refreshing the front end in my 67 biscayne, and I would like to replace the lower control arm bushings. When I compress and remove the coil spring, should I leave it under tension until I reassemble the lower control arm? Or should I relax the spring tension and wind it back up when I’m ready to reinstall the spring? Any other helpful tips for me?
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 Magnetocheck
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 254
Age: 68
Loc: Charlotte, NC, USA
Reg: 09-05-22
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04-19-23 09:48 AM - Post#2857026
In response to S10mk
Interesting question, never thought about it before.
Depends on how long it takes you to switch out the bushings, I guess. They can be a pain.
I would not want to leave a compressed spring lying around the garage any longer than necessary - they are potential bombs and if the compressor fails you could get some flying shrapnel.
How old are the springs? If original, you may want to consider replacing them while you have stuff torn apart.
Bob
'65 Impala SS 396 Convertible |
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S10mk
Poster
Posts: 57
Reg: 01-03-19
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04-19-23 10:02 AM - Post#2857027
In response to Magnetocheck
Interesting question, never thought about it before.
Depends on how long it takes you to switch out the bushings, I guess. They can be a pain.
I would not want to leave a compressed spring lying around the garage any longer than necessary - they are potential bombs and if the compressor fails you could get some flying shrapnel.
How old are the springs? If original, you may want to consider replacing them while you have stuff torn apart.
My guess is about two hours per control arm to change out the bushings, I’m pretty good at that work. I have a shop press and torches, and they usually make short work out of bushings.
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 toro455
"8th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1085
Loc: Western NY
Reg: 06-15-02
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04-19-23 12:02 PM - Post#2857035
In response to S10mk
If you are putting the same springs back in you may want to add some sort of indexing mark easily visible and easily aligned. The ends of the springs need to be indexed correctly, at the top inside the frame, and it's not easy to see as they are being installed. I'm thinking something like a tire marking grease pencil down the center of the coils facing directly outboard might save you a headache.
We changed my springs to Global West. Those are really hard to compress and one tip is make certain you lube the threads on the compressing tool. Also turn by hand. I'm certain it's more important with the GW as they are a higher spring constant but we literally stretched the threads on the compressing tool during the job. When we noticed it we backed-off and had to buy a new tool.
For removal we were working on a second Impala frame but on a couple of other cars, 71 Chevelle and 2003 GMC Sonoma, I didn't need to compress the springs to remove them. You can have the car supported by the frame with jack stands and you can lower the control arm with a floor jack slowly until they are fully unloaded. The GW springs are shorter so they're easier to start but more difficult to compress enough to install.
Scott
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S10mk
Poster
Posts: 57
Reg: 01-03-19
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04-19-23 12:15 PM - Post#2857036
In response to toro455
We changed my springs to Global West. Those are really hard to compress and one tip is make certain you lube the threads on the compressing tool. Also turn by hand. I'm certain it's more important with the GW as they are a higher spring constant but we literally stretched the threads on the compressing tool during the job. When we noticed it we backed-off and had to buy a new tool.
Good idea on indexing the springs, I’ll have to grab a paint pen or something like that to mark my springs.
I’ve watched a few videos and saw several people using impact guns to compress their springs, I’m not comfortable with that at all. I’ll take my time and use a breaker bar to work my spring compressor.
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Jynx
Poster
Posts: 96
Loc: Australia
Reg: 03-01-11
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04-19-23 06:38 PM - Post#2857057
In response to S10mk
Yep, agree with Toro, you'll only need to compress the springs on re-assembly. It's a scary job with those spring compressors, take your time & be very careful.
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S10mk
Poster
Posts: 57
Reg: 01-03-19
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04-20-23 06:31 AM - Post#2857069
In response to Jynx
Thanks for the input everyone, disassembly went pretty smooth and I got the new bushing pressed into the LCA. I did end up decompressing the spring, the compressed spring and a hook on the spring compressor got caught on a frame lip. That was with the LCA out of the way. So i decompressed the spring and I removed the spring compressor. At that point the spring just fell out
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hemiguy
Newbie
Posts: 8
Reg: 09-11-18
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06-29-23 07:35 AM - Post#2859724
In response to toro455
Hi.
On a 68 there is a hole in the upper tower where the spring sits. You are supposed to put the spring in so you can see the edge of the top most coil through the hole.That locates it correctly.
Interesting note, those springs compress more on one side than the other when installed, it is kind of difficult to get them back in, at least it was for me. I sandblasted and used the originals, I don't see anything wrong with them.
Good luck!
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STSCowboy
Newbie
Posts: 11
Reg: 09-18-23
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09-18-23 02:42 PM - Post#2862647
In response to hemiguy
What is the proper spring orientation? I believe I’ve read the open spring is up and the closed coil is down.
On my Kingswood, someone heated the coils to lower the front end and when I went to remove the spindles to install McCaughey’s 2” drop spindles both ends appeared to be closed coils. The passenger side is broken so I’m not sure I’ll be able to tell once I tackle that side!
I temporarily installed the drivers side and I’ve now got quite a bit of camber so I’m waiting for new control arm bushings to install.
I’ve never seen coil springs ever placed in such an arch when installed. The only way I could get it installed was to seat the upper coil into the upper pocket and then screw the spring onto the edge of the pocket to lock it into the upper coil seat. Then I used a ratchet strap and pry bar to seat the spring into the lower control arm pocket before jacking up the lower control arm! Crazy stupid design!
Where are you guys sourcing your spring seats and upper/lower control arm bushings?
Thoughts on aftermarket upper/lower control arms?
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 docjns1
"3rd Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 361
Loc: upstate NY
Reg: 11-12-19
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09-18-23 04:40 PM - Post#2862650
In response to STSCowboy
What is the proper spring orientation? I believe I’ve read the open spring is up and the closed coil is down.
On my Kingswood, someone heated the coils to lower the front end and when I went to remove the spindles to install McCaughey’s 2” drop spindles both ends appeared to be closed coils. The passenger side is broken so I’m not sure I’ll be able to tell once I tackle that side!
I temporarily installed the drivers side and I’ve now got quite a bit of camber so I’m waiting for new control arm bushings to install.
I’ve never seen coil springs ever placed in such an arch when installed. The only way I could get it installed was to seat the upper coil into the upper pocket and then screw the spring onto the edge of the pocket to lock it into the upper coil seat. Then I used a ratchet strap and pry bar to seat the spring into the lower control arm pocket before jacking up the lower control arm! Crazy stupid design!
Where are you guys sourcing your spring seats and upper/lower control arm bushings?
Thoughts on aftermarket upper/lower control arms?
Quick note/question on your process...are you lowering and/or jacking the arm from outer (ball joint) end? Repair manual process is to lower from inner bushing end and remove or install spring from there. If I remember it can be done without removing the arm if you're just replacing springs. I found it went together rather easily in this manner, once spring was compressed and oriented I was able to 'stand' a small piece (4" square)of 2X4 on the jack under the bushing to jack the inner end of the arms into place. Another tip when replacing the bushings...best to tack the bushing flange to the arm to prevent them from 'walking' out...happened to me, after the fact I noticed the arm had shifted fwd and was rubbing the xmember.
Steve
*********
'65 Impala SS, Crocus Yellow/blk
327 / 300 L74
M11 3 on the tree
12 bolt 3.31 open dif |
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STSCowboy
Newbie
Posts: 11
Reg: 09-18-23
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09-18-23 07:36 PM - Post#2862654
In response to docjns1
I was jacking from the ball joint end as I wasn’t expecting the issues I encountered.
I can definitely see the advantages of doing it from the bushing end.
Thanks,
Joe
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