rachki
Newbie
Posts: 37
Age: 28
Loc: North Carolina
Reg: 08-13-16
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01-26-23 09:58 PM - Post#2853800
Hi all,
My '94 K1500 has been sitting in one of my barns for the past 3 years. Got her fired up and driving and am in the process of replacing old pieces of the driver side door and part of the passenger side door.
I noticed that my passenger side door switches for the window and for the locks do not work. There appears to be no power at all.
From the driver's side I can operate the passenger window and lock without problem. I took the switches from the driver's side and hooked them up to the passenger side to troubleshoot and still got nothing, which tells me the problem is not the passenger side switches.
Any suggestions on things to check? Is there a fuse that only controls the passenger side window and locks?
Blue Collar Farmer and Computer Programmer
-Way back in a Holler in Southern Appalachia |
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 CowboyTrukr
"11th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 4850
Loc: Salt Lake City
Reg: 06-20-09
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01-27-23 01:12 AM - Post#2853803
In response to rachki
The 1994 window and lock circuits run from the driver door to the passenger door.
Check for a broken wire (even under the insulation) in the boot in the passenger door jamb.
Greg
‘01 Silverado 2500HD 8.1/Allison 1000 Xcab/LB
'00 Explorer XLT 4.0 SOHC V6 Auto
'95 K1500 Z71 EC Short Step 5.7L+0.040/NV3500 SOLD
"The only thing necessary for evil to triumph is for good men to do nothing" Sir Edmund Burke |
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rachki
Newbie
Posts: 37
Age: 28
Loc: North Carolina
Reg: 08-13-16
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01-28-23 05:52 PM - Post#2853852
In response to rachki
Update: Driver side is dead too. Checking for wire breaks.
I've not messed with circuit breakers in vehicles, only in the house. Do I need to reset the window breaker after I find the broken wire? Or does it auto-reset?
Blue Collar Farmer and Computer Programmer
-Way back in a Holler in Southern Appalachia |
Edited by rachki on 01-28-23 06:03 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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CowboyTrukr
"11th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 4850
Loc: Salt Lake City
Reg: 06-20-09
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01-29-23 01:20 PM - Post#2853885
In response to rachki
There aren’t any breakers for the window/door circuits. Only fuses
Greg
‘01 Silverado 2500HD 8.1/Allison 1000 Xcab/LB
'00 Explorer XLT 4.0 SOHC V6 Auto
'95 K1500 Z71 EC Short Step 5.7L+0.040/NV3500 SOLD
"The only thing necessary for evil to triumph is for good men to do nothing" Sir Edmund Burke |
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Chevytech
Subject Matter Expert - Senior Member
Posts: 4041
Loc: Twin Cities, Minnesota, U...
Reg: 04-25-04
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01-29-23 03:13 PM - Post#2853889
In response to rachki
I have a 1993 manual to look at, and it should be close enough, so this is what it shows.
The power windows get power through the 30 amp “ACC - IGN” circuit breaker located on the right hand side of the fuse panel. These circuit breakers self reset.
Power goes to the window switches through a pink wire.
A broken wire, which is a common failure, in either door jam could cause the passenger window to not work.
The power needs all wiring in working order to make it to ground going through the switches in BOTH doors.
A failure of either switch could also cause the problem. The older S10 trucks had a high failure rate on the switches but the full size trucks held up well.
I suggest checking the wires in the drivers door jam first.
For those of you that are wondering why you are not getting replies to your thread:
Did you give the model, year, engine, fuel system type, and transmission information?
If your vehicle has been altered from stock, let us know about that too. |
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rachki
Newbie
Posts: 37
Age: 28
Loc: North Carolina
Reg: 08-13-16
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01-31-23 07:33 PM - Post#2853969
In response to Chevytech
Y'all both were right. Since I've got most of the driver's door disassembled anyway while I'm doing the rods and window motor, etc, I just took the whole door off and disconnected the driver's side wiring harness.
EDIT: I don't know why it gives an adult content warning. Perhaps my farmer hands are provacative haha?
Check out these pics:
https://imgur.com/a/JDY9ZSf
The Pink wire may be salvageable with electrical tape and the break in the elbow at the window wire may be too. However the orange wire actually has some copper strands cut and no longer has the full amount of copper threads. Will probably need to replace that length otherwise the remaining threads may not be able to handle the circuit load.
I'm going to check to see how much a new/used harness is. If it's not too much I may just replace the whole harness.
Blue Collar Farmer and Computer Programmer
-Way back in a Holler in Southern Appalachia |
Edited by rachki on 01-31-23 07:52 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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rachki
Newbie
Posts: 37
Age: 28
Loc: North Carolina
Reg: 08-13-16
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01-31-23 08:32 PM - Post#2853978
In response to rachki
Update:
Found a single wiring harness for sale on Ebay for $90.
That was far too expensive for me so I grabbed some heat shrink tubing from my shop, my wife's hairdryer and some electrical tape and patched up the trouble areas.
Reconnected the wires and I now have power on both windows and locks.
Thanks all!
Blue Collar Farmer and Computer Programmer
-Way back in a Holler in Southern Appalachia |
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Chevytech
Subject Matter Expert - Senior Member
Posts: 4041
Loc: Twin Cities, Minnesota, U...
Reg: 04-25-04
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02-01-23 07:12 PM - Post#2854032
In response to rachki
You're welcome.
I'm glad you got the windows working.
If there is any damage to the wire in the door jam area if I am not replacing the harness I always splice in a piece of new wire extending into the door several inches as well as under the dash several inches. Any wire with as much as a crack in the insulation, I replace it.
For those of you that are wondering why you are not getting replies to your thread:
Did you give the model, year, engine, fuel system type, and transmission information?
If your vehicle has been altered from stock, let us know about that too. |
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