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Username Post: 1951 12 volt voltage regulator        (Topic#370152)
bobt 
Contributor
Posts: 337

Loc: colonial heights va
Reg: 06-28-14
11-23-22 03:03 AM - Post#2850376    

Hello. I have a 1951 Chevrolet Fleetline with a 1953 235 six cylinder engine. It's been converted to a 12 volt system with a 12 volt GENERATOR. I need to replace my firewall mounted voltage regulator. My question is-- Will a A/C Delco regulator #D618 work? Yes,I have used the cheaper "Standard" brand in the past but I only get a couple of years out of them so I would like to try an A/C Delco. Thanks, bobt



 


drtyler 
"7th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 686

Loc: Georgia
Reg: 05-06-10
11-23-22 06:02 AM - Post#2850377    
    In response to bobt

Thats what I would try.

Do you know which generator is on your car? Maybe it is more amps than the Standard regulators have been rated for?

Standard VR20 is rated to 30A, and VR22 is rated for 40A.

For 10 years, I’ve been using a Napa regulator. I asked them for one for a 55 Bel Air with 235. Its been working ok. If I can find something with the part number on it, I will follow up this post.



 
bobt 
Contributor
Posts: 337

Loc: colonial heights va
Reg: 06-28-14
11-23-22 02:58 PM - Post#2850398    
    In response to drtyler

THANK'S! bobt



 
rrausch 
"17th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 14896
rrausch
Loc: L.A, Cal. & St. Louis...
Reg: 04-07-03
11-24-22 07:35 AM - Post#2850421    
    In response to bobt

In the 1990's I used to go to the local Pick Yer Parts. At that time they were still crushing '49 to '54 Chevy pickups. But I pulled a lot of Delco voltage regulators off then, because I needed one. I didn't have a shop manual, and there was no Internet, so I was guessing at the adjustments. I never did get one right. I finally put a 10si on my '54 truck and never looked back.

1953 210 Convertible, 261 with dual Carter YF 966S carbs, P.S., Remote Bendix P.B. Booster... shade-tree restoration about done.




 
bobb 
Super Senior Member
Posts: 6189

Loc: paradise
Reg: 09-05-03
11-24-22 02:02 PM - Post#2850449    
    In response to drtyler

napa ECH VR126 w/ac

70 L camino, grampa engine, g-force 5 spd, road rage suspension. Pray first before all else fails.


 
FishFry 
Newbie
Posts: 45
FishFry
Loc: Augsburg - Germany
Reg: 11-01-22
11-24-22 10:11 PM - Post#2850464    
    In response to rrausch

  • rrausch Said:
I finally put a 10si on my '54 truck and never looked back.



Yeah, I'm not missing that regulator ether since I got the 10si, but still kept it on the firewall for looks. I'm hiding a modern electronic module and 2 relays in there, since they are not compatible with my engine bay Feng-Shui

Frank



 
bobt 
Contributor
Posts: 337

Loc: colonial heights va
Reg: 06-28-14
11-25-22 03:06 AM - Post#2850468    
    In response to rrausch

I thought about that but I understand that your stock charge gauge won't work? Is that true?



 
FishFry 
Newbie
Posts: 45
FishFry
Loc: Augsburg - Germany
Reg: 11-01-22
11-25-22 03:53 AM - Post#2850470    
    In response to bobt

I think I found a way to make it happen.

The 10 gauge wire to the starter acts as a shunt.





 
bobt 
Contributor
Posts: 337

Loc: colonial heights va
Reg: 06-28-14
11-25-22 05:52 AM - Post#2850472    
    In response to bobt

Ok---I'm assuming the yellow wire is the 10 gauge---What's a shunt? bobt



 
rrausch 
"17th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 14896
rrausch
Loc: L.A, Cal. & St. Louis...
Reg: 04-07-03
11-25-22 03:27 PM - Post#2850503    
    In response to bobt

I had to use a small exciter light when using the 10si. Also, the damm Chinese are making 10si clones. When I wanted a real Delco 10si, I went to NAPA and looked through their rebuilt alternators until I found a rebuilt Delco. Most were Chinese.

1953 210 Convertible, 261 with dual Carter YF 966S carbs, P.S., Remote Bendix P.B. Booster... shade-tree restoration about done.




 
FishFry 
Newbie
Posts: 45
FishFry
Loc: Augsburg - Germany
Reg: 11-01-22
11-26-22 05:01 AM - Post#2850525    
    In response to bobt

  • bobt Said:
Ok---I'm assuming the yellow wire is the 10 gauge---What's a shunt? bobt



No the red wire is the 10 gauge and it does the heavy lifting.

A shunt is a device that creates a low-resistance path for electric current, to allow it to pass around another point in the circuit. The origin of the term is in the verb 'to shunt' meaning to turn away or follow a different path.

In a nut shell - a big fat wire that is a super highway for your electric current from the alternator, so most of it will go there, and only a little takes the detour over the ammeter.

Frank





 


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