Gain extra benefits by becoming a Supporting Member Click here find out how!

Classic Performance Products Nu-Relics Power Windows
American Auto Wire Hellwig Products IncPerformance Rod & Custom
Danchuk Catalog



Username Post: Over Heating        (Topic#368608)
kgraham8050 
Newbie
Posts: 2

Reg: 06-04-22
06-04-22 03:59 PM - Post#2842310    

Sorry I'm new to this forum. I'm 75 years old. non-mechanical. I have a 1964 Chevy Elcamino with a Crate GM350 (3000 Miles) with The FAST Injection System, Dual Fans, New Thermosates Twice, Dual Magna Flow Exhaust and power everything. It runs hot to the extreme.



 


rcr3 
Site Ambassador -"18th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3749
rcr3
Age: 71
Loc: MANHEIM PA. U.S.A.
Reg: 11-24-02
06-05-22 04:25 AM - Post#2842334    
    In response to kgraham8050

I'd post this in the performance forum.

'67 Camaro survivor
'06 Z71 Sierra Ex Cab
'37 Chevy cp.SOLD!!6/7/14
'00 S10 Ex Cab BUILT FOR EVERYDAY,NOT JUST THE HOLIDAYS
'73 Nova pro-street project
'17 Chevy Trax LT







 
Tony1963 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1788

Loc: Orlando Florida
Reg: 07-09-18
06-05-22 06:50 AM - Post#2842342    
    In response to kgraham8050

Overheating, without sounding overly-simple, is either:

1.) generating more heat than the system can
accommodate, or

2.) the system is compromised that it cannot move
the heat

You have to determine which path you need to go down.

What kind of condition is the radiator and are you sure that it is big enough?

People fear change because it threatens what they know, or what they claim to know.


 
grumpyvette 
Senior Chevytalk Moderator -- Performance Subject Matter Expert --
Posts: 17774
grumpyvette
Age: 74
Loc: farmersville texas USA
Reg: 03-16-01
06-05-22 09:13 AM - Post#2842346    
    In response to Tony1963

Tony1963 is correct chances are good you need a larger or at least newer and less clogged up radiator
and a fan shroud and clutch fan, if your over heating your system is not effectively transferring heat from coolant to air
the heat transfer rate and the efficiency your engine runs at is determined BOTH by the efficiency of the vehicles cooling system and the t-stat opening temp
the t-stat is limiting flow below its rated temp, the cooling system efficiency, the rate the cooling system can transfer heat to the outside air flow, the outside air temp,
will determine the upper or running temp above the t-stat opening temp.
keep in mind a t-stat does not limit the cooler coolant entering the engine, its function is to keep the coolant flow through the engine minimized,
until its absorbed enough heat to reach the t-stats opening temp that allows the coolant to flow out of the engine.
Id also verify your not dealing with a stuck or defective t-stat,
a leaking head gasket,
incorrect ignition timing issues,
an intake manifold vacuum/air leak
a leaking cooling system,
low oil or coolant levels
and maybe a defective electric fan or sensors,
or a partially blocked radiator, on some cars like most corvettes
you can suck up trash like plastic bags, or grass clippings or leaves that block air flow,
through the radiator

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?thr...

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?thr...

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?thr...

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?thr...

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?thr...

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?thr...
















IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!


Edited by grumpyvette on 06-05-22 11:11 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
bobb 
Super Senior Member
Posts: 6189

Loc: paradise
Reg: 09-05-03
06-05-22 09:48 AM - Post#2842349    
    In response to kgraham8050

and it was ok before?

70 L camino, grampa engine, g-force 5 spd, road rage suspension. Pray first before all else fails.


 
IgnitionMan 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 4020

Reg: 04-15-05
06-05-22 11:51 AM - Post#2842356    
    In response to kgraham8050

I am 73 years old, welcome to the boards and sport.

When I see this sort of post, I always see two things,

Tune is incorrect, as in timing curves, use of advances, other tuning issues. Even with EFI, timing and injector "squirt" time is critical.

MOST IMPORTANT, people take the stock Air Conditioning fan clutch, multi blade belt driven fan, fan shroud, proper thermostat, and stock pulleys off, replacing them with "hot rod, racing" electric fans, other 230 def/F. EMISSIONS parts that just do not work well in earlier 180 deg/F. systems.

More info on both the cooling system, and tuning issues, EFI timing curves, injector dwell times is needed, if possible.



 
Mel Foye 
*VIP* Original Founding Member Group
Posts: 5597
Mel Foye
Reg: 09-29-00
06-05-22 01:59 PM - Post#2842377    
    In response to kgraham8050

Hot to the extreme is not carrying the same message to all others. 81 next month and over 160 was the start of a PROBLEM in old days.
Does it overflow? What are the actual degrees?
Thanks. Mel



It Was On Fire When I Laid Down.


 
Tony1963 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1788

Loc: Orlando Florida
Reg: 07-09-18
06-05-22 03:06 PM - Post#2842386    
    In response to Mel Foye

Today overheating on modern engines is 226 or higher. Lots of systems out there will run that hot in hot weather.

Of course, the systems are built to handle that additional heat.

People fear change because it threatens what they know, or what they claim to know.


 
IgnitionMan 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 4020

Reg: 04-15-05
06-06-22 03:33 PM - Post#2842476    
    In response to Tony1963

Yes, that hot, 225/230 deg/F. today is just fine, FOR AN ENGINE DESIGNED TO DO SO.

They are referred to as EMISSIONS engines. Most also utilize aluminum heads, which dissipate combustion chamber operating temps far faster than cast iron heads do.

When combustion chamber temps lower to a point they become inefficient, chamber temp bleeds power and efficiency away as well.

There is a fellow on the Chevelles site, 427 cast iron block big block, aluminum L88 series heads, tri-power. It was running its usual 180 degrees, cooling system worked as it should, t'stat was 180.

Didn't really run the way it should have.

Remember, cast iron block, aluminum heads, intake manifold. We went through all sorts of specs, the timing curves/settings I built into his distributor, this, that, here, there, and it never really perked up. Ran OK, but you felt it should have..... MORE.

Finally, he told me the heads were aluminum.

I asked him to go get a Mr. Gasket "Pressure Balanced" t'stat, 195 degrees, took him two weeks to bring himself to do so.

He finally gets back to me, says the engine is running at a constant 193 deg/F. and feels like it picked up 50 horsepower in the Seat of the Pants dyno.

SAME can happen when engines are not designed to run at those temps, too clod, or, too hot.

Cast iron block/cast iron heads, 180 deg/F.
Cast iron block/aluminum heads, 195 deg/F.
Aluminum block/aluminum heads, 200 deg/F.

Electric fans, slow water pump pulley, no shroud, other mumbo-jumbo super duper cooling disasters, too hot, enjoy the loss of power.



 


Icon Legend Permissions Topic Options
Report Post

Quote Post

Quick Reply

Print Topic

Email Topic

1066 Views
FusionBB
FusionBB™ Version 2.1
©2003-2006 InteractivePHP, Inc.
Execution time: 0.118 seconds.   Total Queries: 15   Zlib Compression is on.
All times are (GMT -0800) Pacific. Current time is 11:11 PM
Top