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Username Post: Upgrade to H.O. Alternator Advice        (Topic#367338)
scrambldcj8 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2684
scrambldcj8
Loc: Belchertown, MA
Reg: 04-06-03
01-02-22 08:43 AM - Post#2833667    

Hey all, looking to upgrade my 1994 K1500 100A alt to a higher amp output. I think I kill batteries because I use the truck for plowing my driveway and then I park the truck till the next snow....never driving the truck of any distance to replenish the battery. When using the plows controls, the headlights go very dim. Engine RPM is never very high, even though I almost always plow in 4 Low, RPM is in short bursts.
I have a higher amp alt and I am wanting to upgrade the Alt wire to the battery to a 4AWG. Looking at it today the OEM wire that runs from the alt to the batt has what "appears" to be a fuse/fusible link near the batt end of the wire. At the battery the + batt cable is a molded unit to include the +battery cable/wire from the alt/wire down to starter (which also has a fuse/fusible link(?).
I was going to just cut the original wire from the alt to the battery and replace it with the 4AWG wire w/out a fuse/fusible link. Good idea/bad idea? Or, can I leave the OEM arrangement intact and just run a sister 4AWG wire from the alt to the battery?
I welcome any and all suggestions. The replacement alt is claimed to be a 200A alt... to build the battery up faster during heavy use, I understand there are many variables to an alts actual output, so an actual 200A may or may not be obtained.
Thanks in advance.

PS: Or can I just run the H.O. alt with the factory wiring? Not sure if that smaller alt to battery lead will be ok, or allow the alt to function correctly?



 
Lowersidecustoms 
Newbie
Posts: 1

Reg: 01-03-22
01-03-22 02:34 PM - Post#2833745    
    In response to scrambldcj8

Never a bad idea to fuse a hot wire, though not necessary I did. I did a 200a powermaster with 2 optima batteries for audio and extended battery with engine off. I fused from the alternator to main battery, then another fuse from main battery to isolator to secondary battery. I also did the big 3 upgrade on all the wires in the charging system and grounds with 0/0ga, my voltage doesn’t with all my accessories on and stereo turned up



 
scrambldcj8 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2684
scrambldcj8
Loc: Belchertown, MA
Reg: 04-06-03
01-04-22 08:03 AM - Post#2833773    
    In response to Lowersidecustoms

Yeah, may try and sister to original harness...what's the worst that can gappen...????????
Now, just thought about this...what's the original fuse/fusible link rated for....if that's actually what it is? Hmm



 
65_Impala 
Very Senior Member
Posts: 4850

Reg: 12-29-02
01-12-22 09:04 AM - Post#2834420    
    In response to scrambldcj8


The fusible link is likely a piece of 10 gauge.

You only need to protect the battery end of a new wire, because shorting the battery will cause the melted wires and fires. Shorting the alternator just kills the alternator.





 
someotherguy 
Senior Moderator
Posts: 29523
someotherguy
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
01-12-22 10:13 AM - Post#2834421    
    In response to 65_Impala

  • 65_Impala Said:

The fusible link is likely a piece of 10 gauge.

You only need to protect the battery end of a new wire, because shorting the battery will cause the melted wires and fires. Shorting the alternator just kills the alternator.




And my suggestion, please correct me if I'm in error here - it's best to fuse it as close as possible to the battery. I've seen a couple of "installations" where a large gauge positive feed off the battery got damaged and caught fire. One of those I witnessed going up in smoke and popped the hood to pull the other end of the wire from the terminal before it got worse. This was a car at an impound lot, could have easily gone up and taken a number of other cars with it.

Richard

06 Silverado ISS / 06 Silverado SS / 06 300C SRT8


 
scrambldcj8 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2684
scrambldcj8
Loc: Belchertown, MA
Reg: 04-06-03
01-12-22 06:54 PM - Post#2834459    
    In response to someotherguy

OK, haven't done anything to it yet. Looks like I'll fuse the battery end of the alt lead.
Thxs all for the input!!



 
65_Impala 
Very Senior Member
Posts: 4850

Reg: 12-29-02
01-15-22 07:57 AM - Post#2834570    
    In response to someotherguy

  • someotherguy Said:
  • 65_Impala Said:

The fusible link is likely a piece of 10 gauge.

You only need to protect the battery end of a new wire, because shorting the battery will cause the melted wires and fires. Shorting the alternator just kills the alternator.




And my suggestion, please correct me if I'm in error here - it's best to fuse it as close as possible to the battery. I've seen a couple of "installations" where a large gauge positive feed off the battery got damaged and caught fire. One of those I witnessed going up in smoke and popped the hood to pull the other end of the wire from the terminal before it got worse. This was a car at an impound lot, could have easily gone up and taken a number of other cars with it.

Richard



That's what I posted. Protect the battery end of the wire.



 
scrambldcj8 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2684
scrambldcj8
Loc: Belchertown, MA
Reg: 04-06-03
01-15-22 05:14 PM - Post#2834602    
    In response to 65_Impala





 
someotherguy 
Senior Moderator
Posts: 29523
someotherguy
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
01-16-22 07:14 AM - Post#2834629    
    In response to 65_Impala

  • 65_Impala Said:
  • someotherguy Said:
  • 65_Impala Said:

The fusible link is likely a piece of 10 gauge.

You only need to protect the battery end of a new wire, because shorting the battery will cause the melted wires and fires. Shorting the alternator just kills the alternator.




And my suggestion, please correct me if I'm in error here - it's best to fuse it as close as possible to the battery. I've seen a couple of "installations" where a large gauge positive feed off the battery got damaged and caught fire. One of those I witnessed going up in smoke and popped the hood to pull the other end of the wire from the terminal before it got worse. This was a car at an impound lot, could have easily gone up and taken a number of other cars with it.

Richard



That's what I posted. Protect the battery end of the wire.


Absolutely! My point was that the fuse should be right up at the battery though, because even 1' downstream, if the cable or fuse holder should get damaged, that 1' of cable to the battery is now a handy hot wire flopping around under hood looking for a surface to ground to.

Richard

06 Silverado ISS / 06 Silverado SS / 06 300C SRT8


 
65_Impala 
Very Senior Member
Posts: 4850

Reg: 12-29-02
01-18-22 10:07 AM - Post#2834781    
    In response to someotherguy

  • someotherguy Said:
  • 65_Impala Said:
  • someotherguy Said:
  • 65_Impala Said:

The fusible link is likely a piece of 10 gauge.

You only need to protect the battery end of a new wire, because shorting the battery will cause the melted wires and fires. Shorting the alternator just kills the alternator.




And my suggestion, please correct me if I'm in error here - it's best to fuse it as close as possible to the battery. I've seen a couple of "installations" where a large gauge positive feed off the battery got damaged and caught fire. One of those I witnessed going up in smoke and popped the hood to pull the other end of the wire from the terminal before it got worse. This was a car at an impound lot, could have easily gone up and taken a number of other cars with it.

Richard



That's what I posted. Protect the battery end of the wire.


Absolutely! My point was that the fuse should be right up at the battery though, because even 1' downstream, if the cable or fuse holder should get damaged, that 1' of cable to the battery is now a handy hot wire flopping around under hood looking for a surface to ground to.

Richard




Yes, that's a good point. Any wire connected to the battery before the protection can cause a fire if it shorts out, so keep it short and ensure it's protected against shorting by a sleeve, good fasteners and good routing. Also, inspect it regularly to ensure it's not degrading.




 
scrambldcj8 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2684
scrambldcj8
Loc: Belchertown, MA
Reg: 04-06-03
01-19-22 03:59 AM - Post#2834835    
    In response to 65_Impala

I can't get any shorter than this. :laugh :

Will mount my alt. to batt cable with this and the appropriate fuse:
https://www.bluesea.com/products/5191/MRBF_Te rmina...

It's a fuse block that mounts directly to the battery and then is fused with a variety of fuses (differing fuses can be used up to 300A).



 
someotherguy 
Senior Moderator
Posts: 29523
someotherguy
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
01-19-22 09:20 AM - Post#2834853    
    In response to scrambldcj8

  • scrambldcj8 Said:
I can't get any shorter than this. :laugh :

Will mount my alt. to batt cable with this and the appropriate fuse:
https://www.bluesea.com/products/5191/MRBF_Te rmina...

It's a fuse block that mounts directly to the battery and then is fused with a variety of fuses (differing fuses can be used up to 300A).


Yep! I've seen similar setups on modern OEM applications. Big fuse right there on the terminal. No hot "whip" waiting to come loose and start welding.

Richard


06 Silverado ISS / 06 Silverado SS / 06 300C SRT8


 
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