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Username Post: Turn signal issue.... Running out of hair to pull out        (Topic#366936)
LD-Ordie 
Newbie
Posts: 9

Age: 66
Loc: Upper Mojave Desert in Ka...
Reg: 10-31-21
11-13-21 03:24 PM - Post#2830758    

I have a new to me 67 Chevelle SS, trying to work the bugs out of it. So left turn is fine, right signal appears to have a ground problem? Power going to the switch is 12 volts, stays that way for left but goes super dim for right. Not enough to activate the flasher, Everywhere I check in the circuit is weak. If it is left on while driving, it starts to works sometimes.........so something is loose somewhere. I installed a new switch by plugging into the harness outside the column, same results. Grasping at straws here, is there an area someone can suggest I look? Wiring in general looks clean and un-molested, no weird mods, rust, etc Wiring is not my strongest area Thanks in advance

Proud current owner of a 67 Chevelle SS 396, 55 Chevy 3100, 327 4spd, 39 Ford P-Cup, 327 350 Turbo, 52 Chevy, Styline Deluxe, 235, 59 Triumph TR3, 64 Land Rover Series IIA, 55 Ford, Sedan Delivery, 292 5 spd. I spend a lot of time in the shop


 


space66 
Contributor
Posts: 723
space66
Loc: Montreal,Qc
Reg: 06-01-16
11-13-21 05:06 PM - Post#2830764    
    In response to LD-Ordie

are all your parking lights, brake lights working front and rear ? bulbs are good , the flasher is good ?
power is coming from your switch , check the
harness connectors ...
check the light sockets, they're the ones grounded to the body , ...

My first car: 1970 Olds, 442,455
My last car : 1966 Chev. Impala convertible,396
current car: Can't afford them anymore ...


 
LD-Ordie 
Newbie
Posts: 9

Age: 66
Loc: Upper Mojave Desert in Ka...
Reg: 10-31-21
11-13-21 05:30 PM - Post#2830765    
    In response to space66

Should have mentioned parking lights, flashers, brakes all work

Proud current owner of a 67 Chevelle SS 396, 55 Chevy 3100, 327 4spd, 39 Ford P-Cup, 327 350 Turbo, 52 Chevy, Styline Deluxe, 235, 59 Triumph TR3, 64 Land Rover Series IIA, 55 Ford, Sedan Delivery, 292 5 spd. I spend a lot of time in the shop


 
space66 
Contributor
Posts: 723
space66
Loc: Montreal,Qc
Reg: 06-01-16
11-13-21 05:58 PM - Post#2830767    
    In response to LD-Ordie

when you say the right signal , it's front (dark blue) and back (green) turn signals ? you have the wiring diagram ? follow the wires from the bulbs to switch to see where it could miss , test 12v to it to see ? if all is working, i would assume the problem lays at the harness connector to switch , but dont want to make an A$$ of U and ME...lol

My first car: 1970 Olds, 442,455
My last car : 1966 Chev. Impala convertible,396
current car: Can't afford them anymore ...


 
Mercedes 
Contributor
Posts: 467

Reg: 07-09-18
11-13-21 07:44 PM - Post#2830776    
    In response to LD-Ordie

This will all be about powers and grounds. My guess would be that you have a partial short to ground where the voltage is being drawn off.

You are going to have to check the wiring with a volt meter at every connection until you find the section of wire that is compromised.

All that that circuit does is complete a circuit and the flasher interrupts the circuit.

If you jumper out the flasher, does it get bright or does it blow the fuse?



 
LD-Ordie 
Newbie
Posts: 9

Age: 66
Loc: Upper Mojave Desert in Ka...
Reg: 10-31-21
11-13-21 08:04 PM - Post#2830779    
    In response to Mercedes

Have not tried that yet, so tomorrow is a new day, will try then, thanks for the new insight

Proud current owner of a 67 Chevelle SS 396, 55 Chevy 3100, 327 4spd, 39 Ford P-Cup, 327 350 Turbo, 52 Chevy, Styline Deluxe, 235, 59 Triumph TR3, 64 Land Rover Series IIA, 55 Ford, Sedan Delivery, 292 5 spd. I spend a lot of time in the shop


 
space66 
Contributor
Posts: 723
space66
Loc: Montreal,Qc
Reg: 06-01-16
11-14-21 01:40 PM - Post#2830828    
    In response to LD-Ordie

  • LD-Ordie Said:
If it is left on while driving,
it starts to works sometimes.........so something is loose somewhere.



it's not a random wire short, same side signal front and back

try moving slightly the lever position, or the steering wheel, might be a bad position contact with in the switch .. even new switches can be defective as you said you tried one.

test the 2 signal wires at the harness to switch connectors from either side, to see at what side the short is if any . some times the pins pull out at the plug , but the probability that only those 2 is pretty low.



My first car: 1970 Olds, 442,455
My last car : 1966 Chev. Impala convertible,396
current car: Can't afford them anymore ...


Edited by space66 on 11-14-21 04:11 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
LD-Ordie 
Newbie
Posts: 9

Age: 66
Loc: Upper Mojave Desert in Ka...
Reg: 10-31-21
11-15-21 05:08 AM - Post#2830867    
    In response to space66

Figured it out! Pulled the last couple of feet of wiring from the front dead signal and noticed a section of tape that was newer. removing revealed a repair using a connector with a weak crimp, the ground side, thus the intermittent working especially at hi speed and vibration. Some of these crimpers that kinda smash the connectors are worthless in my opinion. Just hoping the same dude performed minimal repairs. I did go ahead and installed a new switch, nice that the canceling is now working. Thanks to those who responded to my cries for help. Cheers!!

Proud current owner of a 67 Chevelle SS 396, 55 Chevy 3100, 327 4spd, 39 Ford P-Cup, 327 350 Turbo, 52 Chevy, Styline Deluxe, 235, 59 Triumph TR3, 64 Land Rover Series IIA, 55 Ford, Sedan Delivery, 292 5 spd. I spend a lot of time in the shop


 
space66 
Contributor
Posts: 723
space66
Loc: Montreal,Qc
Reg: 06-01-16
11-15-21 07:02 AM - Post#2830875    
    In response to LD-Ordie



My first car: 1970 Olds, 442,455
My last car : 1966 Chev. Impala convertible,396
current car: Can't afford them anymore ...


 
Mercedes 
Contributor
Posts: 467

Reg: 07-09-18
11-15-21 06:04 PM - Post#2830909    
    In response to LD-Ordie

Interesting how many times those crimp connectors fail. They are fine for a year or two after you do them, then weather sets in and corrosion starts. Heat and vibration take their toll then poof, they fail.

Soldering is the way to go but takes more time.



 
LD-Ordie 
Newbie
Posts: 9

Age: 66
Loc: Upper Mojave Desert in Ka...
Reg: 10-31-21
11-20-21 08:11 AM - Post#2831162    
    In response to Mercedes

Cannot argue that soldering with shrink tubing is better, and some applications, I take the extra time. But I have also had great long time results with crimp type connectors when using my Klien crimpers. They do don't rely on squishing the connector, but instead, put's a deep divot in the connector. Nearly impossible to come loose.

Proud current owner of a 67 Chevelle SS 396, 55 Chevy 3100, 327 4spd, 39 Ford P-Cup, 327 350 Turbo, 52 Chevy, Styline Deluxe, 235, 59 Triumph TR3, 64 Land Rover Series IIA, 55 Ford, Sedan Delivery, 292 5 spd. I spend a lot of time in the shop


 


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