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Username Post: Fuse on right side is melting down and not blowing        (Topic#366450)
VanLife 
Contributor
Posts: 889

Reg: 03-20-18
09-19-21 10:37 AM - Post#2827397    

I have the 1 wire in fan that is on a 20amp fuse.

the issue started with meltdown of the connector on the back of the switch control.

I replaced that and I put a new resistance modulo in and replaced that connector as well.

but in less than 2 weeks 2 20 amp fuses have melted down on the right side. where could smell the plastic casing strongly.

So what I am wondering is if the problem is the fuse box or somewhere else along the circuit.

I am hoping its the fuse box because then I can just bypass it with s inline fuse directly to the battery.

But I don't want to do that till i know where in the circuit is causing this fuse melt down problem.

Any ideas?

the fuses are not blowing in the middle. the right tong is getting too hot leading to meltdown.

as far as I can tell its tight enough not to be issue. I could be wrong though .

when asking Questions its related to van I own: 1987 GMC 3/4 ton G2500 vandura, V6, No AC, standard length. 3speed trans(no overdrive).


Edited by VanLife on 09-19-21 10:39 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
gchemist 
Member #271 Senior Chevytalk Moderator
Posts: 25563
gchemist
Loc: Austin, TX 78748
Reg: 05-09-00
09-19-21 01:31 PM - Post#2827416    
    In response to VanLife

The blower motor can be eating too many amps. Or it's not grounded properly. Add another ground to the motor. Or a larger ground.

'83 Silverardo XST - ZZ4 powered
'95 Jimmy SLT (Bought @131,814)
'96 GMC Jimmy LS Ret. @236651 miles
'08 GMC Acadia 3.6L SLE


 
VanLife 
Contributor
Posts: 889

Reg: 03-20-18
09-19-21 03:18 PM - Post#2827426    
    In response to gchemist

its a one wire motor and it relies on the screws holding it to the metal air box. I don't dare scrape the paint off between the motor mount and the fan box for better contact.

It also has to be flush so I can't run star washers between it and box.

That is assuming that the mount-plate is acting as the ground wire.
I honestly think this is a bad design rather than using an actual grounding wire.

maybe run the star washer on the back side right under the screw and mount the wire from there to the headlight ground on the side wall?

also could a loose fuse flange pinches in fuse box cause a meltdown like that?

when asking Questions its related to van I own: 1987 GMC 3/4 ton G2500 vandura, V6, No AC, standard length. 3speed trans(no overdrive).


Edited by VanLife on 09-19-21 03:23 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
kingkreeton 
"8th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1575
kingkreeton
Loc: Nashville TN
Reg: 04-15-11
09-19-21 04:33 PM - Post#2827441    
    In response to VanLife

That sounds like a fire waiting to happen. I would scrap that setup and go with something more reliable.

Shane
64 Impala SS:
Chevy Performance 350HO
4 Speed Muncie


 
gchemist 
Member #271 Senior Chevytalk Moderator
Posts: 25563
gchemist
Loc: Austin, TX 78748
Reg: 05-09-00
09-20-21 02:55 AM - Post#2827462    
    In response to kingkreeton

I would ditch the switch connection. Wire it up with a relay activation instead. Use the switch as a trigger. Full battery power plus big ground is safer.

'83 Silverardo XST - ZZ4 powered
'95 Jimmy SLT (Bought @131,814)
'96 GMC Jimmy LS Ret. @236651 miles
'08 GMC Acadia 3.6L SLE


 
VanLife 
Contributor
Posts: 889

Reg: 03-20-18
09-20-21 08:59 AM - Post#2827482    
    In response to gchemist

That is what I am trying to do is scrap the fusebox out of the system. by bypassing it and going directly to the battery for full power. BUT I need the fan control levers because if i go full speed with fan it cools the core too much that I get no heat or defrost. medium fan speed and low speed I need to be able to use based on how cold it is outside. Full speed is only used during the summer for air exchange to remove heat from cab.

BUT I am NOT sure how to ground it better without a ground wire. there is NO ground wire on the fan motor. AND if I do my own wiring rig need to know what fuse to use. right now that is limited to 20amps

This happened over 2 different motors. SO I know its not a motor issue. the one that is in there now isn't even a year old. I was getting the whine of failing barrings had to replace it.

Any ideas how to ground a single wire motor better?? where NO ground wire exists??.

using relays is way too expensive for my budget. and the van is a totaled title I don't care about using the factory wiring setup OTHER than to a control I can control the seed of the fan I already have resistors for that in place.

Could the motor be trying to draw too much power due to poor grounding?? or is it the opposite where it won't draw power due to lack of grounding??

I am NOT so sure relays would work with a single wire motor. Doesn't it need a return ground wire to the relay to work to begin with?

I only need 3 speeds out of my fan. I already have the resistors its a little plate with 3 resistors
and a and 4 plug heads. one of the 4 is the one that takes the power from one of the 3 transistors and goes to the motor.

I know that is NOT the source of my problem because i replaced the old one and the lever meltdown happened on the old one. the fuse meltdown happened on the new one.

IF I had to make a guess the problem is on the motor end or the fuse box itself. Because there is corrosion damage to the fuse box as a result of previous owner NOT fixing a windshield leak. but that area of the fuse box there is NO visible signs of corrosion. doesn't mean its not there on the back side.

I had to pull the warning buzzer for door and headlights completely rusted through. from said windshield leak. but that was at the very bottom of the box where water would pool.

I had pulled all the fuses to check their condition and the rest looked fine no signs of rust or corrosion. after I sealed the windshield leak.

when asking Questions its related to van I own: 1987 GMC 3/4 ton G2500 vandura, V6, No AC, standard length. 3speed trans(no overdrive).


Edited by VanLife on 09-20-21 09:21 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
VanLife 
Contributor
Posts: 889

Reg: 03-20-18
09-20-21 09:31 AM - Post#2827486    
    In response to kingkreeton

I know it is that was why I am seeking help to resolve it problem is I am extremely budget limited to fixed disability insurance. and homeless. so I need to be economical in how I fix this by using what I have. and making it work in a manual way.

I can't afford to replace the entire fan system. I don't even think they make a 2 wire motor for this van. To allow for a completely different setup that is more reliable.

I believe I am stuck with the 3 resistor setup. and lever control. and need to make that work right

when asking Questions its related to van I own: 1987 GMC 3/4 ton G2500 vandura, V6, No AC, standard length. 3speed trans(no overdrive).


 
bobb 
Super Senior Member
Posts: 5899

Loc: paradise
Reg: 09-05-03
09-21-21 07:39 AM - Post#2827594    
    In response to VanLife

loose connections will cause heat. small wires cause heat. high amp draw causes heat. i normaly see heat damage at a spade connector. a schematic of what you have may help. pics of the motor will also help. i like relays.

70 L camino, grampa engine, g-force 5 spd, road rage suspension. Pray first before all else fails.


 
VanLife 
Contributor
Posts: 889

Reg: 03-20-18
09-21-21 12:21 PM - Post#2827615    
    In response to bobb

its at the spade connector of the fuse where the heat damage is. currently.

everything else is tight or new. the connector and switch lever was replaced together

And I know its not my work to it that is doing it.

I think am going to try the fuse connector as the potential source of problem is loose wire can cause heat.

After all the leaked on for who knows how long. that components have rusted through.

It may look fine but maybe it isn't so fine inside and on back.

Going to run a thick auto wire to the secondary fuse box I have and attach the lever power line to there

I would of said spade connector was where fuse melted, but didn't know the correct wording thanks for that.

there really isn't any way to tighten those grips for the fuse spade connector.

I don't dare clean it out of fear of weakening the connectors grip. these are spring loaded pinch style ALSO the secondary fuse box is in easy reach while driving so I can monitor it by feel for excess heat.
am I correct in assuming that when everything is working there should be no heat anywhere along the circuit? for the blower motor?

I couldn't do that with the firewall box monitor the heat.

when asking Questions its related to van I own: 1987 GMC 3/4 ton G2500 vandura, V6, No AC, standard length. 3speed trans(no overdrive).


Edited by VanLife on 09-21-21 12:24 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
VanLife 
Contributor
Posts: 889

Reg: 03-20-18
09-28-21 08:23 AM - Post#2828168    
    In response to VanLife

fuse box was the culprit. if your getting water on the fuse box especially one that was acquired used assume the fuse box was declared in need of replacement and that is why you are now proud owner of a vehicle with electrical problems.

I bypassed the van harness electrical system. and used secondary fuse terminal I added. the fan works like the van was new. low and medium now work as they are suppose too. before you could hardly tell air was moving on low.

I do NOT know why that angled bar was added to the firewall. but that is the source of the problem when the windshield starts leaking. it redirect the leak no matter where it is to the sides and directly onto the fuse box.

they should of angled it in a way that redirected leaks away from sensitive electronics. NOT towards them

when asking Questions its related to van I own: 1987 GMC 3/4 ton G2500 vandura, V6, No AC, standard length. 3speed trans(no overdrive).


 
bobb 
Super Senior Member
Posts: 5899

Loc: paradise
Reg: 09-05-03
09-29-21 07:02 AM - Post#2828250    
    In response to VanLife

you could get a maxi fuse and drill holes in the spades so you can use screw on terminals. this will eliminate a poor spade connection.

70 L camino, grampa engine, g-force 5 spd, road rage suspension. Pray first before all else fails.


 
VanLife 
Contributor
Posts: 889

Reg: 03-20-18
09-29-21 12:06 PM - Post#2828263    
    In response to bobb

bob issue was resolved was sharing the culprit so if others find leaks in the same place, from used vehicle they bought, on their floor driver and passenger floors to assume the fuse box is shot and needs replacing. Its a costly repair for these old vehicles and a major reason people trade them in instead of fixing them. They don't want to pay 800-1000 or more. rather take the $1000 trade in while not telling the dealer windshield leaks and the fuse box is shot.

Maliciously passing the problem onto the next unsuspecting owner.

dealt with this problem for 2 years. before pinpointing the cause. all intent and purpose the fuse box looks fine when you look at it except the very bottom.

when asking Questions its related to van I own: 1987 GMC 3/4 ton G2500 vandura, V6, No AC, standard length. 3speed trans(no overdrive).


Edited by VanLife on 09-29-21 12:09 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
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