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Username Post: Hot rear drums on 1964 Impala        (Topic#365573)
USCGMK1 
Contributor
Posts: 208

Loc: Vicksburg, Mississippi
Reg: 07-24-15
06-21-21 08:26 AM - Post#2821892    

What is the proper way to adjust the emergency brake? I looked at both the 61 and 64 manuals and they seem different as far as the adjustment goes. I put new equipment on, shoes, cylinder, springs etc and adjusted the pads and e-brake to what I thought felt right to me and using the manual. I took the car out for a test drive about 10 miles round trip. Brakes felt good the entire time. I get it back in the garage and checking around and had a burning smell coming from the rear. I could feel the heat coming off the rear drum and dumb ol’ me put my finger on the drum and got burnt. Both rears were hot as it turns out, the front was fine ( front disc). I read that new pads can give a smell breaking and brakes get hot, but it seemed a little too much for me. I’m thinking the e brakes are dragging, the release lever is out/off I checked it before I left the house. I wasn’t too comfortable adjusting the e brakes as that’s the first time I’ve ever done it, so I feel that’s where the problem may lay. Any ideas?



 


Joeyd59 
Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 74
Joeyd59
Age: 62
Loc: New Jersey
Reg: 02-11-12
06-21-21 12:18 PM - Post#2821908    
    In response to USCGMK1

My suggestion would be to loosen the parking brake adjuster.Remove the rear wheels and and recheck to make sure you have everything installed correctly.You mentioned Disc Brakes on the front.Did you also install a correct proportioning valve?You'd be surprised the cars that come on in here that have still original brake parts after doing a disc brake upgrade with especially the rear brake hose still on the car.Drum brake shoes have a primary and secondary shoe.The shoes with the smaller amount of lining is the primary which faces the front and the shoe with the larger amount of lining is the secondary which faces the rear.Reinstall the drums and push the brake pedal a few times to center the shoes.Then you can use the adjuster for a slight drag on the rear drums as you turn them and can slide them off and on fairly easy.Then go to the parking brake adjuster and tighten to until you take the slack out of the cable.Operate the parking brake and the brakes should lock about 1/3-1/2 way travel.Adjust as needed.Release the parking brake then recheck the shoe drag at the drums,if the drums got tight,you have a binding cable as there are three cables used.Cables as rule should be replaced anyway due to age or at least checked, cleaned and lubricated to ensure they don't bind.I'ved save many originals here with good success.Even the mechanism inside needs attention too.Pretty every moving part in the system.Hope this helps you out!



 
USCGMK1 
Contributor
Posts: 208

Loc: Vicksburg, Mississippi
Reg: 07-24-15
06-22-21 07:03 AM - Post#2821935    
    In response to Joeyd59

Thanks for the suggestions. It has a disc/drum MC, proportioning valve, and a 10 psi residual valve for the drums. It has two separate lines for front and rear.

I did forget to mention it has the self adjustable drum set up in the rear, not sure if this can affect anything for this situation.

I looked at the pictures I took of the old drum set up and all the springs and hardware appear to be in the correct position.

I loosened up the e brake, and went to adjusting the shoes again. Got done with those then on to the e brakes, I adjusted them to the 61 manual, checked the cables for binding and the two roller wheels everything appeared in good order.

Got it all back together last night and took it for a 6 mile spin this morning. Did the back up method for the self adjusting setup. Everything appeared to be working fine, e brake worked.

Checked the drums at the gas station I turn around at for my test drives and the drums were hot but no burning smell, I did have a creaking sound when I came to a complete stop but only on the way there. Headed back to the house, on the way back to the house at the stop signs I noticed no more creaking sounds. Back in the driveway drums still hot and but no burning smell, then grabbed my temp gun and the temps of the drums were 106 and 109. Those temps seem fine to me but they feel hotter than that.

I checked the axle and it wasn’t hot, backing plates were warm but I could put my hand on them and keep them there.

So I’m guessing and really hoping it was my poor attempt at adjusting the E brake and had it too tight.

The other thing I did not mess with was the proportioning valve adjustment it is set at whatever the factory that built them has it set at. It came from Speedway Motors, I believe it’s their house brand.

I’m going to Memphis for work but plan on taking it to a car show this weekend and report back Sunday if anything changes.



 
Joeyd59 
Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 74
Joeyd59
Age: 62
Loc: New Jersey
Reg: 02-11-12
06-22-21 11:39 AM - Post#2821951    
    In response to USCGMK1

I'm not a big fan of adjustable valves.I feel they are not needed for a standard brake upgrade like yours.Good for all out custom builds but not needed in a situation like yours.All you need is a correct Disc/Drum combo valve and you're good to go.Keep it simple.P.S.A correct Disc/Drum master cylinder should have 2 different size fluid chambers,NOT the same size.Usually would have the same size fluid chambers with either 4 wheel Drum or 4 wheel Disc Brakes.Be careful with master cylinders,they may look alike in some cases but are very different.Same thing can happen with Proportioning valves.You have 4 Wheel Drum,Front Disc/Rear Drum/and 4 Wheel Disc,ALL are different and DO NOT interchange.Keep this in mind.Stay Safe!



 
USCGMK1 
Contributor
Posts: 208

Loc: Vicksburg, Mississippi
Reg: 07-24-15
06-27-21 04:26 PM - Post#2822202    
    In response to Joeyd59

Thanks for the heads up on the M/C sizes I'll check them out. I did two days worth of cruising around at a car show a few hours away. I had no problems with it. I guess I just adjusted the e-brakes incorrectly.



 


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