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Username Post: e been hanging around here or years        (Topic#365472)
Fortec Five 
Posts: 26

Reg: 03-20-09
06-08-21 03:51 PM - Post#2821366    

I've been hanging around here for many years, only to read all the post some have made with their problems.
So, here is my turn to post my crazy problem. My 1996 Chev. Tahoe with the 5.7 Vortex V-8 is running fine with it's 12,889 miles and still have the original gas fuel pump in the tank. The past three weeks,or about the Tahoe wouldn't start with turn of the key. It would make a few starter turns and nothing else...not even a cranking sound. The battery is a year old and it has 12.6 volts each time I go to start it. There is no problem after I hook the battery charger to the battery. If the Tahoe sets for a couple days, and I try to start, it does the same...just a couple turns of the starter Bendix and no lights, and clock goes to 2:am.
I can drive the Tahoe to the grocery store...about 2 miles and it starts fine. It's that couple days setting in garage that kills it.
I've removed the battery and put it on a bench without any load on it and it still shows 12.6 volts. Install the battery in Tahoe and go to start the Tahoe and no start. Connect the battery charger to battery and get in Tahoe and turn the key and it will start without any charging being done.
What gets me is the clock goes to 2:am and not to 12:00 am as it would normally do.
Anyone have a guess what causes this problem?

"14th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1400
Loc: Pasadena, Texas
Reg: 04-29-04
06-08-21 06:36 PM - Post#2821380    
    In response to Fortec Five

a volt meter set up to measure current draw would really help you looking for this parasitic battery drain.
You can measure current draw at the battery and remove each fuse/relay one at a time until you find it.
What I found was the glove box light stayed on even when it was closed,
the positive wire from the alternator was corroded under the rubber boot never really charged the battery fully.
just some ideas,
like to know what you find

VC56S 2 door Sedan, 40 Years

[image] v-3564-1354211547.jpg[/image]

Mel Foye 
*VIP* Original Founding Member Group
Posts: 5212
Mel Foye
Reg: 09-29-00
06-08-21 10:26 PM - Post#2821384    
    In response to Fortec Five

I have had 2 batteries that showed 12.6/12.7 even a green eye. Maybe a click or a half turn but no start. My best friend/mechanic for 60 years told me about a surface charge which shows 12.6, try to start and the voltage drops way down.
Clean the battery/cable connections, still no start then take it like NAPA to load test it. Heck I might luck out and be right.

"6th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1023
Age: 63
Loc: New Westminster BC
Reg: 09-25-13
06-09-21 05:50 AM - Post#2821400    
    In response to Fortec Five

Put your volt meter on it and have someone else try and start it and see how far the voltage drops. My guess is it will probably drop to about 4-5 volts indicating bad cells.
Lots of batteries will show 12 'something' volts until you put a load on them.

Steve Duncan
66 Impala 2dr Coupe
Not sure of color yet
work in progress

Fortec Five 
Posts: 26

Reg: 03-20-09
06-09-21 03:11 PM - Post#2821418    
    In response to steve65

I have a load tester and set it up on the work bench and did the test. Couldn't get any drop in voltage. I check the glove box light, it goes out when I close the glove box. Made sure the light went out doing this. I think I have a slight short somewhere in the electrical system. It might be in the BLM box. Like I've said, with 128 thousand miles, it never has been in a shop for anything. I do my own work on my cars...l]oil and filter changes, and automatic transmission fluid and filters also. Also, new brake pads as needed.

Senior Moderator
Posts: 29435
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
06-10-21 07:59 AM - Post#2821439    
    In response to Fortec Five

I had typed out a long message that once I read it back, and re-read your original post, made no sense so I zapped it.

At such low mileage I'm going to guess you probably still have the original battery cables? If so, and the rubbery plastic covering is still on the terminal ends of the cables where they attach to the battery, your problem may be hiding inside. The original setup has a lead spacer between the two positive cables at the battery. Over the years, corrosion sets in and you can't see it because the covering hides it. Lots of starting/charging problems were caused by this setup but by now most of these trucks have long since suffered through this and been repaired.

The quick route is to cut the covering away from the terminal ends so they can be cleaned up, throw the spacer in the trash, and dig up a bolt that is the correct length to hold the terminals to the battery tightly without bottoming out inside the battery and damaging the terminal.

Lots of cleanup to neutralize the corrosion will go a long way towards a lasting repair. It is also possible the positive cables will need to be replaced if the corrosion has wicked down into the cable strands.


06 Silverado ISS / 06 Silverado SS / 06 300C SRT8

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