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Username Post: Need help with electrical        (Topic#365100)
OldsCool398 
Newbie
Posts: 13

Loc: Oklahoma
Reg: 04-30-14
05-03-21 07:55 PM - Post#2819233    

Today I was looking at something after work and noticed the ignition in run position, turned it back off but I don't have power to any lights and no start, but the fuel gauge does go back up, drops down to E after returning to off position. The ignition can be turned without key so probably not a factory switch, or needs to be replaced anyway.

Did I burn up my ignition switch? I tried taking it out to check it out but for the life of me, after 2 hours, I swear there is no brass retaining ball in mine or it won't depress anymore. I switched from the paperclip to heavier binder clip wire and still nothing to get lock cylinder out.

Update: yesterday 5/5 I drilled out the hole that is suppose to have the brass stop (in my vice as this switch is out of the truck now), ended up with a V notch cut off top and I still saw no stop to press down! thought that was odd

1966 Chevrolet C10 350 4spd
1986 Chevrolet C20 crew cab 350 TH400


Edited by OldsCool398 on 05-06-21 07:47 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 


jktucker92 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 470
jktucker92
Loc: West Richland, WA
Reg: 02-05-17
05-04-21 06:40 AM - Post#2819254    
    In response to OldsCool398

It's common for the factory lock to wear out and allow a screwdriver to start it. Both my brother's truck ('63) and mine ('65) could be started with a screwdriver when we purchased them in the 90's.
For the power problems, it's unlikely you burned up the switch to cause no power to anything just from leaving it on. In fact, the lights aren't affected by the ignition switch, so there's something else wrong. Troubleshooting steps I'd take are:
1) Make sure battery is fully charged.
2) Check grounds: specifically engine to body, engine to chassis, and main ground wire at the battery to the body.
3) Check for any bad fuses in the fuse block.
4) Use the factory wiring diagram to trace wires to each circuit and use a volt meter to measure voltage at key locations.

As far as removing the ignition lock, it sounds like you've researched how to do it, and it's just not coming out. You start with it in the accessory position, which should allow the lock and the button to line up. Press in the button, and then turn the lock past accessory and it should come out. You should feel the little brass button depressing when you put the paperclip in. You should feel it contact, then a little more pressure to get it to release. It's possible that after ~60 years the button is stuck. Removing it at that point probably requires destroying it in order to get it out.



 
AdamAmp 
Newbie
Posts: 15

Reg: 03-16-21
05-04-21 02:05 PM - Post#2819271    
    In response to OldsCool398

Good comments from JKtrucker. Here are mine. This is VERY difficult without knowing if your switch is original type. Without a picture of it's terminals:
So I will proceed assuming original type.
Hold off on taking tumbler out. That's not how you test a switch.
You didn't give us any information as to if you have checked the battery for 12.6V. It's possible you just drained the battery or (burnt coil or points or maybe the switch). But first things first.

After charging battery. Try starting.

If no start:
1. By examination of ignition wires and switch, you should be able to determine which wires are run (to coil) and which are start (to solenoid) and which are battery (hot wire from battery)
2. Take off switch wires or it's connector. Attach or jump batt wire to run wire, touch start wire to those two (be prepared for motor to turn over and maybe start). Disconnect all the test connections. Switch is separated and not used for this test.
3. Report what happens.
4. Don't know your experience or available equipment so did not mention meter testing yet.



 
OldsCool398 
Newbie
Posts: 13

Loc: Oklahoma
Reg: 04-30-14
05-04-21 06:21 PM - Post#2819280    
    In response to AdamAmp

Yes I gave little info in that post! I spent 2 hours before I posted this thread with the voltmeter and checked continuity of all grounds from battery to tail lights. I've been needing to do that anyway and grounds are in great condition, none of them corroded just dusty/dirt all over. However, I may have used it wrong to determine battery charge as it showed what I thought was 14.2V last night but this morning I hooked the genie up, it was flashing 25%!

Sorry folks, it was indeed a dead battery.

As for the ignition switch, I cut it out and put in a new one that now does not turn with key out, and can be removed with a paperclip as usual.

I also replaced the headlight switch that arrived with the ignition

I apologize for my hasty thread, I thought I did something terribly wrong leaving that ignition switch on run.

1966 Chevrolet C10 350 4spd
1986 Chevrolet C20 crew cab 350 TH400


Edited by OldsCool398 on 05-06-21 06:59 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
badbob85037 
Poster
Posts: 81

Loc: Arizona
Reg: 03-13-09
05-05-21 06:36 PM - Post#2819359    
    In response to jktucker92

I don't know if this will help or not. For 30 years Ihave bypassed my neutral safety switching my 74 First I turn on the key. My voltage meter comes alive then I start it with a push button. But I would charge that battery first cause 99% it's drained.



 
OldsCool398 
Newbie
Posts: 13

Loc: Oklahoma
Reg: 04-30-14
05-06-21 06:34 PM - Post#2819408    
    In response to badbob85037

Yeah I definitely have battery issues, it is a 2018 Autozone Valuecraft. I have a new question, I may have a battery drain? I have replaced the horn relay and headlight switch before the ignition switch replacement and all parts I buy are original/reproduction of original for simplicity at this point.

Is this a drain at the new horn relay? Key is in off position and shows 12.3V on black wire terminal on new horn relay, wiring diagram shows black wire goes to steering column.

[image]https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipOyikJ4PHJ Vnk1hKxgm3dD2k3AYXQXBtnIn _ZUi[/image] Is there no image here?

I'm going to get real detailed here: the ignition switch is a Standard Motor Products US26 off amazon I just bought. If I turn it to left it won't let me remove key (accessory mode maybe?) and 0 amps draw. I turn it from there right once and it lets me remove key (Off?) 0A draw. If I put key back in and turn it right again, no power to fuel gauge or turn signals, but I can remove key (2 positions now the key is removable) and still 0A draw. I turn it right again, fuel gauge goes back up, blinkers work, tail lights work, headlights work and I can remove key, 3.12 Amps draw with nothing switched on.. turn it to right again against spring and starter spins, releasing stops starter (I did not have Amp meter hooked up for that test). So this did not fix my original concern that key can be removed, but did fix that I can't turn the ignition (turn truck on) without key if I remove key from 2nd position. I imagine that is really confusing and I tried my best to explain that with a keyboard vs a video lol.

So assuming ignition is in off position (2nd to right from as far left it will go, far left will not let me remove key) is the horn relay in these trucks suppose to be always drawing a voltage from the battery through the black wire into the wiring harness that goes into cab? I have read that the horn button grounds that power source when pressed to activate the horn but I'm not sure how that works and if it is draining, but there is indeed 0 amps from battery with key off..


Secondly: the headlight switch. I replaced the dome light with a full assembly that had wires and fished them through the back wall down next to the gas tank and soldered/heat shrinked those wires to the existing orange and white wires. The dome lamp was stock replacement with orange and white wires as well. When I turn new switch for dome lamp it is not lighting up and 0 amp draw (didn't light up with old switch or old switch with new dome lamp, so figured switch was to blame). What am I missing on the dome lamp if headlights are on?

Also I think this motor has the Internally Regulated alternator conversion if that makes a difference, it has a red wire from battery and a plug with blue and black wire.


Thanks for the help.

1966 Chevrolet C10 350 4spd
1986 Chevrolet C20 crew cab 350 TH400


Edited by OldsCool398 on 05-06-21 07:39 PM. Reason for edit: I've never been able to figure out URL pictures...

 
raven 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1053
raven
Age: 71
Loc: Athens, GA US
Reg: 04-12-01
05-07-21 05:12 AM - Post#2819434    
    In response to OldsCool398

I had battery drain in my 66 and it was a problem with a shorting wire in the fuse block.

My Photos


 


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