 scrambldcj8
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2753
Loc: Belchertown, MA
Reg: 04-06-03
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04-07-21 04:18 AM - Post#2817633
Any thoughts of rust repair on a 1994 K Blazers rusted tailgate hinge panel? The hinges have pulled away from the body (due to rust). I have not had luck finding a replacement panel for this purpose. I realize I have a few things to remove to get a good look and access to the area.
I suppose I could post this in "paint and body". I just thought I'd get more specifics for this vehicle here as I've found replacement panels for the previous generation but not this gen...I believe. Thanks.
Edited by scrambldcj8 on 12-01-21 05:18 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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beagrizzly
Frequent Contributor
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Age: 74
Loc: south texas
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04-07-21 07:29 AM - Post#2817639
In response to scrambldcj8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4YCyB8-Z4Js
this is a url to Fitzee's Fabrications on youtube.
Absolutely the most informative sheet metal craftsman there is on youtube.
Griff
if you're gonna be a bear..................
1960 Biscayne (the 6T)
2005 Yukon XL
2007 GMC Sierra Classic 8.1
2009 Silverado
2011 Escalade ESV |
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scrambldcj8
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2753
Loc: Belchertown, MA
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04-07-21 04:27 PM - Post#2817674
In response to beagrizzly
Thanks for that link! I'm going to watch that a few times when I get the time.
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 wagonman100
Site Ambassador
Posts: 15802
Loc: Baltimore, MD
Reg: 11-27-04
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04-07-21 04:32 PM - Post#2817675
In response to beagrizzly
Even if you found an OE panel, replacement would be extremely difficult. The panel is wider than the opening that is formed by the quarter panels. To get the panel in you have to have the body raised up over the frame. The bottoms of the quarters would have to be above the frame by the height of the panel, or at least high enough to slip the panel in rotated 1/4 turn and then flipped up in place. I replaced one on a Suburban about 22 years ago and had to cut the panel in half and slide the pieces in place and butt weld them back together. It decreases the width of the panel by the width of the kerf of the blade used to cut it, but there was enough adjustment in the hinges to make it still doable.
Jay
Friends don’t let friends drive Fords.
1999 Silverado Z71 4X4 extra-cab short bed
1983 Malibu Fauxmad - tubbed
1978 El Camino Kustomized
1972 Monte Carlo
1957 210 handyman wagon
1957 Nomad sport wagon
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scrambldcj8
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2753
Loc: Belchertown, MA
Reg: 04-06-03
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04-11-21 05:01 AM - Post#2817839
In response to wagonman100
Wagonman, I agree I wouldn't go to that extent. I would access/remove/prep best I can and get something in there. Busy past few days and plan to get in there and see how extensive the issue is sometime soon. I don't need the vehicle very often and can take my time..a functioning tailgate is 100% needed on a Blazer vs say a P/U where it matters less :laugh :
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Bill K.b
Senior Member
Posts: 4529
Loc: upstate NY
Reg: 10-24-05
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04-15-21 04:44 AM - Post#2818064
In response to scrambldcj8
Southern/western donor cut to fit so you can weld it in might do it.
My old 89 Suburban had that problem, when I accidentally broke the back window (still not sure how I did that) the tailgate fell off as there was nothing holding it on. I replaced it with barn doors, but that's probably not an option on a Blazer.
Those who can, do. Those who can't, criticize it on the internet.
Driving 2002 Express 2500
2002 Express 2500 extended
1988 G20 conversion
1993 GMC 3500 dually
Plus cars for swap and sale
& yes, I once tried a frame swap on a 51 Chevy. |
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scrambldcj8
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2753
Loc: Belchertown, MA
Reg: 04-06-03
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04-16-21 01:19 PM - Post#2818172
In response to Bill K.b
I've actually kinda wondered if a change to barn does was a possibility as it was available on later GMT400 Blazers (96+ IIRC?)....actually Tahoe after 1994. It makes getting things out of the back easier as you don't have to reach over a tailgate with heavy items....but long objects would require a strap to keep the doors together. Hmm, got me thinking now.....
Edited by scrambldcj8 on 04-24-21 06:55 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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Bill K.b
Senior Member
Posts: 4529
Loc: upstate NY
Reg: 10-24-05
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04-22-21 10:35 PM - Post#2818593
In response to scrambldcj8
I found on the 89 the body was built intended to be one way or the other, where the hinges go had three layers of metal but only one had the holes for the hinge bolts and I had to reinforce it a bit since the plate they go into wasn't present.
My guess is on yours it will be the same issue, it was built intended to be a tailgate and you'll have to rework it with donor parts to mount barn door hinges in it.
Those who can, do. Those who can't, criticize it on the internet.
Driving 2002 Express 2500
2002 Express 2500 extended
1988 G20 conversion
1993 GMC 3500 dually
Plus cars for swap and sale
& yes, I once tried a frame swap on a 51 Chevy. |
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scrambldcj8
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2753
Loc: Belchertown, MA
Reg: 04-06-03
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04-24-21 07:04 PM - Post#2818705
In response to Bill K.b
Thanks for the input. Yes, most likely more work than its worth at this point. Mine as well put that effort into a split tailgate (hinges on the sides) and retain the lift glass...lol joking kind of.
I'll look at it and see what needs to be cut out and replaced. The southern rust free donor option sounds good. Anyone want to cut up their good GMT400 Blazer or got one with heavy front end damage?
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Bill K.b
Senior Member
Posts: 4529
Loc: upstate NY
Reg: 10-24-05
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04-25-21 12:03 AM - Post#2818710
In response to scrambldcj8
You might actually be better off finding a southern truck that needs a motor and putting yours in it. If I hadn't run into the clean van I just got I had ideas of buying something down there because even if you had to redo every mechanical bit on it you're way ahead over hours and hours of rust repair body work.
Those who can, do. Those who can't, criticize it on the internet.
Driving 2002 Express 2500
2002 Express 2500 extended
1988 G20 conversion
1993 GMC 3500 dually
Plus cars for swap and sale
& yes, I once tried a frame swap on a 51 Chevy. |
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scrambldcj8
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2753
Loc: Belchertown, MA
Reg: 04-06-03
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04-25-21 04:32 AM - Post#2818715
In response to Bill K.b
For others in the situation that may find this thread in the future....that is a very valid point and the most effective and efficient path to take.
This is more a yard truck/go getter/plow truck of just my driveway. It is very road worthy still but does have its fair share of rust, the frame is now lighter than when it left the factory, mostly aft of the rear axle/ gas tank. I've dreamed of finding its southern twin....a 1994 Blazer 5.7L/4L60, black with gray interior, w/Z71 "Sport" Silverado package. I see southern truck pics of other members here and I am jealous....then I drive into NY, NH, or VT and see newer vehicles more rotted out by (liquid) road salt than mine....ahhh!
Edited by scrambldcj8 on 12-01-21 05:02 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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scrambldcj8
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2753
Loc: Belchertown, MA
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12-01-21 05:17 AM - Post#2831669
In response to scrambldcj8
Just a bit of an update, Ran into a snag, more on that in a bit.
Got into it and I see where a "patch panel" probably wouldn't work out easily as there are many contours, it's boxed in, and it rolls under and includes the rear most body mounts.
So I used 14g sheet metal and made some pieces to bridge over to more solid metal and it's rolled over the top where the existing metal was very solid. As luck would have it, one hinge was still attached (not well though/matter of time) so I could use that as a guide and measure of that to locate the position of the other hinge (span and height). Got everything in and tacked a few welds. Closed the tailgate and lift glass to verify alignment for closure, it all lined up well.
But...BUT, I should've tried the key in the lockset 1st!!! Since I unplugged the electric release harness for the liftglass to remove the tailgate, I now can't get the key to turn the tumbler. As the lockset was rarely ever used, it was either my keyless remote or the electric release....NOTE to self: "self, try key 1st".
Sooo, anyone have suggestions to get the tumbler to turn with the key? I've been hitting it with WD40, PB Blaster, and letting it soak. Tried a hairdryer to give it some heat and a propane torch w/gentle flame (good thing back then things were "metal") without any luck. Time for a locksmith I think?
Edit: Another thought is the lock linkage is seized (if different from the electric actuator, which I believe it is) and preventing me from being able to turn the key in the lockset. I am set to cut an opening through the interior carpeted/plastic trim panel to gain access to the harness on sat. Unfortunately, I have not seen replacement panels so I will try and be neat about it and repair and replace carpet later on.
Edited by scrambldcj8 on 12-01-21 05:11 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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stumppuller
"13th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 964
Loc: Canada
Reg: 11-01-04
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12-02-21 01:16 PM - Post#2831744
In response to scrambldcj8
You should post some pictures of your repairs.
No advice on how to fix the lock, at least nothing you haven't already tried. As to repairing it after accessing the lock, Rivet Nuts might be useful. This way you could make a nice oversized access panel that is removable, if it works in you situation. Just be sure to use stainless ones.
Here's what they look like if you are not familiar,
-91 Sierra C2500, now K2500
-81 Chev K20 |
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scrambldcj8
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2753
Loc: Belchertown, MA
Reg: 04-06-03
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12-02-21 07:02 PM - Post#2831776
In response to stumppuller
Stump,
Good advice on the rivnuts. Yes, I know what they are, funny just picked up quite a few in assorted sizes to use on some blind panels on my CJ crawler.
I could reattach my "cutout panel" panel using those....I like it!
I'll update with pics when its all set. I do plan to drill a few holes that I can cap after. I'd like to spray some NHoil undercoat or the likes in there, it's rusty but if I could only slow the rust creep that'd be OK too.
The rust is inside that blind hinge area, essentially the "roll pan" if you will. The insides of the tailgate itself is pretty pristine, although dusty and it has some foam sound deadening material (just behind the carpeted interior panel) that pretty much disintegrated into a sticky black mess.
Edited by scrambldcj8 on 12-02-21 07:07 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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scrambldcj8
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2753
Loc: Belchertown, MA
Reg: 04-06-03
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01-29-22 06:16 PM - Post#2835404
In response to scrambldcj8
I am not proficient at welding, but so far so good.
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scrambldcj8
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2753
Loc: Belchertown, MA
Reg: 04-06-03
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01-29-22 06:18 PM - Post#2835405
In response to scrambldcj8
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stumppuller
"13th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 964
Loc: Canada
Reg: 11-01-04
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01-30-22 02:28 PM - Post#2835447
In response to scrambldcj8
I am not proficient at welding, but so far so good.
Doesn't have to be pretty, it just has to work  .
Nicely done. Just be sure to paint/coat the backside of the patch with something or it will rot fast. Used oil, Rustcheck, Fluidfilm, whatever your preference is.
-91 Sierra C2500, now K2500
-81 Chev K20 |
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scrambldcj8
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2753
Loc: Belchertown, MA
Reg: 04-06-03
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01-31-22 06:36 AM - Post#2835474
In response to stumppuller
I used a weld thru primer where the patch was placed over another metal (always a big concern when plating steel...rust formation between "plies"). I do plan to spray into that cavity with something like Fluidfilm/NHOil or the likes.
I truly envy vehicles from the dry south.....
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