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Username Post: 2 dr hardtop full floor replacement        (Topic#364816)
Brushwolf 
Newbie
Posts: 20

Reg: 12-05-18
04-03-21 08:34 PM - Post#2817409    

I have seen videos of floor replacement in 4 door cars, but I just got a 2 door hardtop.

Looking for guidance or suggestions from those who have done full floors previously.

Rockers are pretty much gone under rocker covers someone else stuck on there 30 years ago. I left remains of originals for the time being. Big sections of front floors were patched also. Almost to tunnel at drivers feet, less on passenger side.

My worry is that the original body mounts have shrunk so much that the cowl and rear of car are sitting lower on frame than they should be.

Just getting started, but so far it looks like all braces and mounts from floor front to front of back seat floor upright side-to-side interior brace are gone or marginal. Same with rear trunk brace. My trunk floor looks pretty good so far surprisingly. Have not removed gas tank yet, though.

Anyway, should know more tomorrow. Thought I would start this now so I can accumulate some feedback by the time the parts arrive and I have a better idea what braces are intact (or not) on body rear.

I ordered the full floor with braces, new poly body mounts and bolts, inner rockers, long rear trunk brace. I have lots of welding experience and patching floors, putting in partial pans, etc.

Did not order outer rockers yet, figuring on working from the inside out. Plus if I missed anything on prior order can add that also.

Anyway, my plan so far is to get the rear of the body firmed up with new poly body mounts and braces wherever needed.

Then use my pretty straight doors with renewed hinges (sloppy hinge pins right now) to line up quarter to the cowl which could lift a little with new poly mounts installed at the front, but maybe not cuz my tunnel is intact and some of rear floor is still there.. IDK..

But I should probably only be tacking the new full floor to anything until the door rears align with quarters?

I am not sure welding a lot of braces in now is a good idea cuz the rubber original body mounts on the cowl arepretty far gone and I suspect could have moved a little already. Bottom of door post seems to move a tad if I lift on door, at least on driver side.

The doors (even when lifted to remove pin slop) seem to be leaning down at the quarter and along window-to-top clearance too.

Which to me says either the cowl is higher or rear of body is lower than it should be already. So welding in a ton of bracing will lock them out of position.

I figure install all new mounts and braces where needed on rear of body rear and cowl to get body and cowl height re-established, then door rears to quarter before any bracing is welded in.

Then cut out tunnel and remaining floor to install the new floor that has braces on it already. New mounts on that also. Then just solid tacks initially. Then inner rockers, check and re-check door gaps, and worry about outer rockers when the alignment issues are satisfactory.

Right, wrong or somewhere in between? Will check back tomorrow with more info assuming no rain.


Thanks, Mike



 


acardon 
Ultra Senior Member
Posts: 11472

Loc: DFW TEXAS
Reg: 03-25-05
04-04-21 11:39 AM - Post#2817442    
    In response to Brushwolf

I haven't done a full floor yet, but am thinking about it. I plan on welding the doors to the body, with proper gaps, with flat iron bars, on the inside, front and back, so they could be cut loose without the welds showing. Cross brace the B pillar on a hardtop. Lift the body off the frame, cut the old floor out. Then mount the new floor to the frame with new mounts and no shims. Then set the body on full floor and weld. Add outer rockers if needed.
That way you don't worry about door gaps and the new outer rockers can be aligned to the doors.

Don
66 Corvair (driving)
57 2dr HT (driving)
56 2dr HT (waiting to be restored)


Edited by acardon on 04-04-21 11:41 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
craig32 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1362

Age: 59
Loc: PA
Reg: 08-05-07
04-04-21 03:45 PM - Post#2817470    
    In response to Brushwolf

  • Brushwolf Said:
So welding in a ton of bracing will lock them out of position.
Thanks, Mike


Realizing this, you are way ahead of the game already. People were telling me I had to do that when I did mine (11 years ago) and I did what you are suggesting anyway. You need some flex when you set the body back down on the new floor. I used self tapping sheet metal screws to start, and when you get everything set right, start welding. I left my doors on when I did mine, I ran a brace from the wheel wells in the back to the foot braces in the front, and a cross brace in between. I raised it with two cherry pickers just high enough to get the floor in and bolt it down, then eased the body back down. ALL my floors and rockers were completely shot, only the tunnel was relatively good.
Side note: a full floor with braces should have inner rockers on it, and the full trunk floor I used had the tail pan brace on it, too.

66 Impala (almost done!)
56 Stepside shortbed
55 Bel Air sedan
81 Corvette
02 Monte Carlo (bought new)


 
Brushwolf 
Newbie
Posts: 20

Reg: 12-05-18
04-04-21 11:09 PM - Post#2817494    
    In response to acardon

That is a really good idea. Flat bars welded on inside of doors. Could crossbrace to those too.

Thanks



 
Brushwolf 
Newbie
Posts: 20

Reg: 12-05-18
04-04-21 11:57 PM - Post#2817496    
    In response to craig32

I just happen to have two cherry pickers too. Initially I thought maybe the full pan was short enough to go thru window opening on a hardtop. Now I am not so sure.

Will be pulling the stuck motor and transmission shortly. Front clip is just sitting on it now.

On a YouTube video I watched, they left rear mounts loosely attached and raised just the front high enough to get the floor in from the front. But, I have no rear mounts with enough left to do it that way. Trunk rear crossmember is too far gone.

Looks like I will have to fix that before floor. Perhaps stick new poly mounts temporarily in those 3 rows ahead of axle to get the rear brace aligned with remains of existing floor first before cutting it out.

Pulled the gas tank today. My trunk floor still looks surprisingly good, but maybe after I run a stripper disk or 3 over it more deterioration will be revealed.

Looking from the rear underneath, the three braces inside frame on both sides starting at axle going forward appear to be mostly intact, but the rubber is so far gone the floor is sitting on the frame at rear axle frame peak.

Inside the trunk, it looks pretty decent considering it is original. But, the rear mounts and about 4-6 inches of trunk floor (including area below valance under trunk extending outward) are sketchy, pitted, holes, fiberglass mesh on tail valance or what is left of it.

So unless I find the trunk floor is actually worse than it looks so far, I will just get the rear repair piece in and put the new rear crossmember in the existing trunk.

Could you elaborate on exactly why the flex was needed on your installation. I am thinking the doors welded on inside is the way to go to straighten out the body lines.

I think this car may have been hit on the driver side, evidenced by some funky body work at left trunk to quarter joint, plus I suspect the left door post might be out of whack and cowl has some bondo on top of left side to raise it up. Top of left fin over to trunk has some on it too.

If it was hit in the door post it would tend to pull the cowl top down a bit. The passenger side of cowl has no filler and post looks good, so will figure out the driver side based on that.

Cannot get close to lining up doors either side though, so maybe the whole cowl has sunk on top of the left door post being out of whack. Maybe I will even have to detach the post and re-position it. Hopefully a hinge rebuild will do it though.

I will be talking to the people I got the car from Tuesday, so I will see if they have any idea if left side was ever hit. Suspecting that may be why less rust on the left side than right.

Those panels were perhaps replaced after an accident. Front of wheel left quarter, not any rust holes. Right side has holes and bondo on front of quarter, plus wheelhouse inside is rusted thru and left side looks solid still. Can see the tire from back seat area on right side.

I have mostly done body work on old Fords. The rear wheel houses on this Chev are really odd compared to the Fords. I will do the wheel house when lower quarter is cut off on left side too, I guess.

Yes, some floors with braces have inner rockers. I put in an inquiry to the vendor about that to see if they are included.

Thanks





Edited by Brushwolf on 04-05-21 12:12 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
craig32 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1362

Age: 59
Loc: PA
Reg: 08-05-07
04-05-21 01:22 AM - Post#2817498    
    In response to Brushwolf

  • Brushwolf Said:


Could you elaborate on exactly why the flex was needed on your installation.



As you stated earlier, if the body has shifted due to wear on mounts, welding it solid would keep it that way. You may need a little adjustment.

66 Impala (almost done!)
56 Stepside shortbed
55 Bel Air sedan
81 Corvette
02 Monte Carlo (bought new)


 


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