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Username Post: Cleaning/Blasting Options/Methods/Material        (Topic#364804)
58apachhe 
Newbie
Posts: 7

Loc: Eastern Canada
Reg: 03-12-21
04-02-21 04:38 AM - Post#2817321    

Good Morning All, as I collect items, tools and materials to start the restoration of my 58 Apache, I am looking for advice on what might be the best approach when it comes to cleaning the various parts of the truck(frame, leaf springs, shock mounts, bumpers, sheet metal parts etc) and the best way to prevent rusting/oxidation while the rebuilding process takes place. Is there any books/videos that you guys have found to be helpful, any and all suggestions, past experience would help this newby, thanks and Happy Easter to everyone.



 


monty56 
"16th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1487
monty56
Loc: Chandler(it's a dry heat)...
Reg: 04-26-04
04-02-21 08:34 AM - Post#2817336    
    In response to 58apachhe

Some media blasters will also epoxy prime after, check your local blaster shop.

Monty
'56 3100 Short Stepside Someday
2001 Chevy Suburban 2500
2009 Saturn Vue w/20's

Member: Desert Classic Chevy's Inc.
Monty's 56 Truck
Avatar is my Truck


 
51 AD 3100 
Contributor
Posts: 161

Age: 53
Loc: Grant, AL
Reg: 08-30-20
04-04-21 04:21 AM - Post#2817417    
    In response to 58apachhe

for smaller rusted items ,like hinges, hood springs, etc . i built an electrolysis dunk tank. easy to build . get one of the heavy duty black plastic storage tubs that have the yellow top . 4 pieces of large (3/4")rebar cut to about 12 inches each .stand those up in each corner so about 1 inch sticks out the top and secure with some mechanic wire wrapped around the tops and through 2 small holes through the plastic tub near the top edge. take some heavy copper wire and link the rebar together at the top . almost everyone who messes with vehicles much owns a 12v battery charger with the spring clip ends. get a box of washing soda at 1/4 cup per gallon of water , fill the tub with the mixture enough to submerge the parts. if you cant submerge it totally thats ok , you can turn the part at some point in the process...put your part in .make sure the part doesnt touch the rebar or the rebars copper wire. attach another copper wire to your part to be de-rusted. now clip the negative charger clip to the part via that last piece of copper wire. and the positive clip to the rebar . turn on the charger. DO NOT TOUCH any part of this while its going through the process. Also, DO NOT DO THIS IN A CLOSED AREA, it builds up gases that are explosive.so i do mine under my carport next to my shop. in just a few seconds you'll see bubbles coming from the rebar . within a 12- 48 hr period you'll see rust transferred and built up on the rebar and your part will now be black and mostly rust free. turn off the system and wire brush off any remaining chunks of rust and if its down to solid metal , its done ,if it was a large part ,turn the part to dunk the rest of the rusty surfaces and re-start the process for as long as it takes or allow it to dry and do whatever repairs necessary then paint it . the washing soda and the rebar will be rust colored. if you get to a point the rust doesnt seem to come off much , the rebar has to be derusted. its just a crusty surface and you can wire brush it off or just buy new and start over.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ACLXEzLonbU


Life's more fun, in a '51


Edited by 51 AD 3100 on 04-04-21 04:29 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
58apachhe 
Newbie
Posts: 7

Loc: Eastern Canada
Reg: 03-12-21
04-04-21 06:23 AM - Post#2817423    
    In response to 51 AD 3100

Good morning, thanks for the info, I will be using this method for small parts. Once the process is complete and the part has been cleaned/rinsed off and dried, is t ready to be primed/painted or should it be wire brushed or sanded first?



 
BigDogSS 
"12th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 4903
BigDogSS
Loc: SoCal
Reg: 12-21-01
04-07-21 06:06 PM - Post#2817681    
    In response to 58apachhe

Get yourself a blast cabinet. I've owned this one for almost 20 years:
BarrelBblaster.com

I also had a bunch of parts powder-coated. They blast and clean the part before they applied the powder-coating.



    1967 Chevrolet Impala SS convertible 327 - Ermine White C1 - VCCA Senior Award
    1967 Chevrolet Impala SS Sport Coupe 396 - Marina Blue FF - personal "barn-find" lol



Edited by BigDogSS on 04-07-21 06:09 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
51 AD 3100 
Contributor
Posts: 161

Age: 53
Loc: Grant, AL
Reg: 08-30-20
04-08-21 01:46 AM - Post#2817685    
    In response to 58apachhe

i would still run some sort of surface finishing over it, depending on what the part is. if its flat , sure, sandpaper should be fine. wire brush the rest. i'd use a primer with high build if theres any uneven spots.you could also spray on some rust converter just in case you can't reach in the nooks and crannys, that stuff leaves a "paintable " surface. sand it smooth , recoat, then whatever color coat you want. what sort of parts are you working on?

Life's more fun, in a '51


 
AdamAmp 
Newbie
Posts: 9

Reg: 03-16-21
04-10-21 01:25 PM - Post#2817813    
    In response to 51 AD 3100

The method will very depending on what needs removed. I don't like any kind of chemical for a bunch of reasons. Except degreaser and gasoline.
Light or medium rust or paint, in order:
1. Sand/media blast
2. Wire wheel, ceramic disc wheel
3. D/A

Hard grease/dirt/grime
1. Air Needler
2. Air chisel on very low PSI, dull edge
3. Hand work

Gummy grease:
1. Degreaser and then pressure wash
Then Gasoline and scrapper/stiff brush

Thick/rotting rust
1. Patch repair

Protection:
Prime and paint or just paint black stuff with rattle can.(frame, brackets, certain components)
Other items requiring later automotive paint may not adhere to rattle can paint.
I don't like powder coat. Can't touch up. Not DIY friendly. Color change difficult.

If you live in a salt road area, use undercoat where applicable.

Leaf springs are difficult. Hard to clean or paint anything except edge and some of the surfaces without taking apart which I never do. The paint comes off of them when they flex and separate during driving. After cleaning rust, there are some oil mixtures you can spray on them to leave them "natural".



 


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