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Username Post: Wheel won't turn with hub torqued to spec        (Topic#364427)
dtreat 
Newbie
Posts: 10

Loc: Virginia
Reg: 10-25-20
02-22-21 03:54 PM - Post#2814899    

Finally got the brake system replaced on my '50 Fleetline, was so happy to have one step done towards getting this thing running. Following the manual, I repacked the bearings and torqued the hubs to 33lbs on both front wheels. Driver side wheel won't turn, right side does. Drum will turn before torqueing, so I am sure it isn't the brakes. Bearings and Races look good. Bearings turn by hand when not in the hub. Both sides put together the same. Any thoughts? What could I have done wrong? Would it be OK to not tighten so tight?



 


drtyler 
"6th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 583

Loc: Georgia
Reg: 05-06-10
02-22-21 04:08 PM - Post#2814901    
    In response to dtreat

Ball bearings or tapered roller bearings?



 
tommy49 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3040
tommy49
Loc: Kaleva, Michigan
Reg: 09-28-12
02-22-21 04:47 PM - Post#2814905    
    In response to dtreat

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1949_53/...

Tommy

49 Deluxe Sport Coupe, 4.8/4L60E swap in progress, MII IFS, Blazer rear axle, 4 wheel power disc brakes, power steering, air conditioning.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/tommyfortynine /album...




 
dtreat 
Newbie
Posts: 10

Loc: Virginia
Reg: 10-25-20
02-22-21 05:24 PM - Post#2814907    
    In response to drtyler

ball bearings.



 
RAM_51 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 5944
RAM_51
Loc: Yakima, WA. USA
Reg: 12-28-02
02-22-21 08:36 PM - Post#2814915    
    In response to dtreat

The nut is supposed to be backed off a certain distance after torquing...according to shop manual.

1951 Fleetline Preservation
'51 Fleetline DeLuxe 2 DOOR SEDAN (Fathom Green)
'51 Styleline Special BUSINESS COUPE (Shadow Gray)
'53 6500 Dump Bed (Oxidized Red)
'50 Styleline DeLuxe 4 DOOR SEDAN (Mist Green)


 
bobt 
Contributor
Posts: 276

Loc: colonial heights va
Reg: 06-28-14
02-23-21 03:16 AM - Post#2814922    
    In response to RAM_51

Are you using a cheap Chinese torque wrench? If yes, borrow a different one.



 
beagrizzly 
"12th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 2197
beagrizzly
Age: 70
Loc: south texas
Reg: 08-04-12
02-23-21 06:34 AM - Post#2814934    
    In response to RAM_51

According to the shop manual linked above, the proper torque, then back off 1/4 turn.

If you leave it too tight, it will grind your bearings to nothing pretty quick. Too loose, same result. Ball bearings aren't very forgiving.

My dad always taught me to tighten the nut until it wouldn't turn. This seats new races in the bore, and sets bearings on the shaft. Then back it off until it turns. This usually happened to be about 1/4 turn. Funny how the shop manual seems to be right on these things. lol.

Griff

if you're gonna be a bear..................

1960 Biscayne (the 6T)
2005 Yukon XL
2007 GMC Sierra Classic 8.1
2009 Silverado
2011 Escalade ESV


 
dtreat 
Newbie
Posts: 10

Loc: Virginia
Reg: 10-25-20
02-23-21 04:53 PM - Post#2814963    
    In response to beagrizzly

A little more troubleshooting. If I put on the hub and just push it all the way on, it won't turn. Don't even need to put the nut on. So, getting stuck on something. Brakes all the way in, same thing. Brake pads off the car (I didn't want to have to put that spring back on again), same thing. New wheel cylinders... hmmm. Turns out the little nib on the top that the adjustment spring/holder is attached to is rubbing on the hub when all the way on. I am 99% sure that is what it is. I used some chalk on it, put hub on and it rubs the chalk off. Repeated on other side, does not do the same thing.
I'm thinking of filing down that nub a tiny bit and seeing what happens. Will probably unbolt and rebolt the cylinder first.
Anyone else seen this problem?




 
lobucrod 
Contributor
Posts: 677

Age: 69
Loc: Slaton, TX
Reg: 10-01-07
02-24-21 04:45 AM - Post#2814984    
    In response to dtreat

Have the drums been turned? If you have new shoes and unturned drums maybe the new shoes are dragging on a lip in the drum.

'38 Chevy Coupe Gasser 409 powered
'50 Sedan Delivery 401 Nailhead powered
'62 Buick Electra original survivor


 
dtreat 
Newbie
Posts: 10

Loc: Virginia
Reg: 10-25-20
02-25-21 05:26 PM - Post#2815091    
    In response to lobucrod

Thanks all.
It was indeed the new wheel cylinder. Had to file down the very top of it. Now the hub spins like a top when torqued 33 and packed off as the manual says.




 
rrausch 
"16th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 14495
rrausch
Loc: L.A, Cal. & St. Louis...
Reg: 04-07-03
02-25-21 08:05 PM - Post#2815103    
    In response to dtreat

Just out of curiosity, what brand are the wheel cylinders?

1953 210 Convertible, 261 with dual Carter YF 966S carbs, P.S., Remote Bendix P.B. Booster... shade-tree restoration about done.




 
dtreat 
Newbie
Posts: 10

Loc: Virginia
Reg: 10-25-20
02-26-21 05:25 AM - Post#2815113    
    In response to rrausch

assuming from China. I already threw out the boxed they came in. Got them here:
https://www.chevsofthe40s.com/detail/8094/Chevrole...




 


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