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Username Post: 60 rear quarter panel wheel arch repair        (Topic#364356)
Eth727 
Contributor
Posts: 339
Eth727
Loc: San Diego
Reg: 04-17-19
02-15-21 10:22 PM - Post#2814358    

Does anyone have tips of how properly form the lip edge on rear quarter panel wheel arch?
Thanks



 


Techhead 
Senior Member
Posts: 960
Techhead
Loc: Etobicoke, Canada
Reg: 10-25-05
02-16-21 04:47 PM - Post#2814420    
    In response to Eth727

Fender Roller would be your best bet

https://www.eastwood.com/ew-fender-roller-w-in stru...



I'll be Frank, this hobby isn't getting any easier.
58 Delray in disaray


 
gcrkfrd 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 217
gcrkfrd
Age: 74
Loc: Neosho, MO.
Reg: 04-01-18
02-16-21 05:48 PM - Post#2814422    
    In response to Techhead

Riddle me how this tool would work for what he needs-----------He might use a BEAD ROLLER, if he can find the right wheels.

52 Styleline Fourdoor 62 235 PG
There is no substitute, for CUBIC MONEY


 
steve65 
"6th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 954
steve65
Age: 62
Loc: New Westminster BC
Reg: 09-25-13
02-17-21 08:20 AM - Post#2814448    
    In response to gcrkfrd

Possibly the fender forming pliers would be more useful for his need? (same webpage at the bottom) And for $40.00 I might just get a pair for my garage, could have used something like that when Lorne and I redid a portion of my 65's wheel well.
Steve

Steve Duncan
66 Impala 2dr Coupe
Not sure of color yet
work in progress



 
Eth727 
Contributor
Posts: 339
Eth727
Loc: San Diego
Reg: 04-17-19
02-22-21 11:00 PM - Post#2814918    
    In response to steve65

Those tools are for modifying fenders with wheels that rub. I'm forming a stock lip with stock tires. I'm not making the fenders larger or wider.



 
Brushwolf 
Newbie
Posts: 10

Reg: 12-05-18
02-23-21 02:34 AM - Post#2814921    
    In response to Eth727

Not sure if you are doing a complete wheel lip or just partial, but I have seen wheel lips made by forming them between strong plywood forms in a vise, one of which has been cut to the lip shape required and gradually hammered over.

If it is a large part of the wheel lip, I would just see if I could find a patch panel and cut it down to the size of the area needing replacement.

I have seen some good patch panel fabrication youtube videos done by a Canadian fella, but his name escapes me at the moment. He does door skins, cab corners, fender sections, various compound shapes all using basic metal working tools and gets very good results.





 
PLS 
"9th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1605
PLS
Loc: Smyrna, Georgia
Reg: 06-07-12
02-23-21 06:25 AM - Post#2814933    
    In response to Eth727

Pictures are worth a thousand words in some cases, when it comes to getting an answer to our questions or trying to answer a question as well. Just saying. ???? Lamar

Lamar

My ’60 Chevy history video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kuLdKs2Gp5k


 
Brushwolf 
Newbie
Posts: 10

Reg: 12-05-18
02-23-21 07:21 PM - Post#2814972    
    In response to PLS

https://youtu.be/mU46MpCXD3g

https://youtu.be/FZRuaT2obb4

Yes, visuals are handy... love the color of the 60 Impala. I enjoyed that video as I also have a 60 hardtop.

Fitzee Fabrications videos above at top. This guy can do wonders with basic metal tools. First one is a wheel lip section repair. Not fast, but good...



 
Eth727 
Contributor
Posts: 339
Eth727
Loc: San Diego
Reg: 04-17-19
02-23-21 09:47 PM - Post#2814974    
    In response to Brushwolf

Yeah I found out I need to buy a shrinker & stretcher tool $160 @harbor freight. I'm sure there are other ways to make compounds curves but having the right tool for the job makes a difference. I also bought a whole quarter panel on the right side. I'll attempt to make my own patch panels for the left with a stretcher/shrinker tool.



 
Brushwolf 
Newbie
Posts: 10

Reg: 12-05-18
02-23-21 10:56 PM - Post#2814975    
    In response to Eth727

Yes, I have Eastwoods version of shrinker stretcher and used some scrap metal to make a foot-operated stand.

A lot easier to work it with both hands free and I can alternate between the 2 tools without messing with mounting them to anything. Added casters so I can roll it around even.

I just made some inner wheelhouse lips for a 57 Ford using mine. First time using mine, but I found
there is an awful lot of running back and forth cuz every shrink or stretch is basically a guesstimate.

So, over a short section on an L shaped piece of steel they work pretty good, but over a long section it is trickier.

Being I was doing an inner lip and will be undercoated, it did not need to be as nice as an outer lip needs to be. The jaws also leave teeth marks in the steel, so it may be a little more difficult than you anticipate at this point if they are very long pieces.

Is the Impala a simple L-shaped bend like the Ford lip is? I am in Florida and my cars are in MN so I can't go look at mine. But, I looked at an old pic of my 60 and it looks like a rounded profile to the lip, rather than a basic L shape that the shrinker/stretcher is more suitable for.

While I do like having the option of using the shrinker/stretcher for window channel and inner fender repairs, as those are just L shaped straight metal put into a compound curve form, I am curious to how they would work on what appears to be a rolled lip on one side of the L.

But, I think if I have to do a longer outside lip that is a simple L shape, but a compound curve I would make it out of 2 pieces to get a stronger and more profile-accurate piece as Fitzee does.

Or else use the simple plywood pattern and just tweak it as needed with the shrinker/stretcher instead of starting with a straight L shape, as is usually done with those tools.

Let us know how it goes.



 
beagrizzly 
"12th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 2181
beagrizzly
Age: 70
Loc: south texas
Reg: 08-04-12
02-24-21 10:38 AM - Post#2815007    
    In response to Eth727

Eth727,
I'm going to give you some advice that you did NOT ask for, so it's only worth what you paid for it. At least it comes with a money-back guarantee.

The way they form panels for our old cars (my theory!) is they fill an original with concrete, then stamp the new sheet metal over the top of the original.

When you get it, lay it on top of where it is going. You will find that it fits OVER the original sheet metal.

Just keep that in mind when you start welding. You will have to cut it somewhere to "shrink" it to fit the ends, and also the wheel arch lip. At least it gives you new metal to work with instead of trying to weld patches where you cut the rust out.

Good luck.
My two pennies.

Griff

if you're gonna be a bear..................

1960 Biscayne (the 6T)
2005 Yukon XL
2007 GMC Sierra Classic 8.1
2009 Silverado
2011 Escalade ESV


 


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