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Username Post: Many questions        (Topic#364344)
Coupe50 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 162
Coupe50
Loc: Sweden
Reg: 04-27-14
02-15-21 10:59 AM - Post#2814285    

Hello. I have a few question that i hope someone can help me with.
1. I have a newer power generator. (the one that`s look like an old one). Can i use the original amp. meter? Or do i have to have a newer one somewhere on the dashboard?
2. I have just renovated the front crossmember and suspension (thank`s DZ AUTO for the info) and i just wonder wich is best to start adjusting? The steering rod or the drag link?
3. I have the original heater control with 3 wires and their is one wire i`m not so sure where it`s supposed to be. It`s the longest one and i think it should go to the air intake on the right side but what do i do with the wire that`s allready thir? Do i just take it away?
4. I`m found a Powerglide rearend that i`m going to put on but is their someway that i can see if their is a new bushing or a oakie bushing in the front?
5. I took of the doors and the hinges and the some of the washers for the bolts that hold the hinges to the body was in pieces. Can i buy new ones or can i use some regular washes?
6. With the new rearend their is also the Bendix brakes. Wich parts do i have to buy so i can use my original parking brake on my -50 Chevy?
7. Final question. I have a 235 -62 years model with Langdons carburator and HEI ignition parts and the engine renovated whit a kit from Patrick`s antique. (bought it before the company was gone) What should i think of,check etc etc before i start it up?
Lot`s of question but i hope i can get some help.




 


eplantage 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 2413

Loc: Southern MN
Reg: 03-15-04
02-15-21 11:42 AM - Post#2814290    
    In response to Coupe50

I can't respond to all your questions but your emergency brake cables will fit the Powerglide rear axle with no problems or special parts. I have a 51 PG rear axle under my 50 sedan delivery and I didn't have any problems.

Age: 67 at the moment
1950 Chevrolet Sedan Delivery
1953 BelAir Convertible Project
2002 Heritage Springer FLSTSI
1930 Model A Standard Coupe


 
RAM_51 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 5938
RAM_51
Loc: Yakima, WA. USA
Reg: 12-28-02
02-15-21 11:48 AM - Post#2814291    
    In response to Coupe50

  • Coupe50 Said:

3. I have the original heater control with 3 wires and their is one wire i'm not so sure where it's supposed to be. It's the longest one and i think it should go to the air intake on the right side


I'm not sure of the lengths of the cables, but these two diagrams from the 1949 Accessory Installation Manual should help in the which cables go where. The second diagram indicates that the AIR VALVE CABLE is the longest and the DEFROSTER CABLE to be the shortest.


Attachment: 1949-50_Air-Flow_Heater_Control.jpeg (218.94 KB) 3 View(s)




Attachment: 1949-50_Air-Flow_Heater_Cable_Routing.jpeg (382.27 KB) 5 View(s)




1951 Fleetline Preservation
'51 Fleetline DeLuxe 2 DOOR SEDAN (Fathom Green)
'51 Styleline Special BUSINESS COUPE (Shadow Gray)
'53 6500 Dump Bed (Oxidized Red)
'50 Styleline DeLuxe 4 DOOR SEDAN (Mist Green)


 
drtyler 
"6th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 582

Loc: Georgia
Reg: 05-06-10
02-15-21 12:02 PM - Post#2814293    
    In response to RAM_51

Is the newer power generator a generator or an alternator?




 
Coupe50 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 162
Coupe50
Loc: Sweden
Reg: 04-27-14
02-15-21 01:40 PM - Post#2814302    
    In response to drtyler

It's a generator. That's why i wonder if i can use the original gauges. I think i have read somewhere that it works but i'm not sure if it's true.



 
Coupe50 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 162
Coupe50
Loc: Sweden
Reg: 04-27-14
02-15-21 01:41 PM - Post#2814303    
    In response to eplantage

Thank's. Then i don't have to worry about that.



 
Coupe50 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 162
Coupe50
Loc: Sweden
Reg: 04-27-14
02-15-21 01:44 PM - Post#2814304    
    In response to RAM_51

Thank's. Now i know where i should put it.



 
dsacton 
"4th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1336
dsacton
Loc: Boulder, CO
Reg: 11-01-11
02-15-21 02:37 PM - Post#2814313    
    In response to Coupe50

5. I took of the doors and the hinges and the some of the washers for the bolts that hold the hinges to the body was in pieces. Can i buy new ones or can i use some regular washes?

On my 54 2-door, I replaced some of the washers (and screws) with no difficulty.

Scott Acton
1954 Chevy Bel Air 2-door
http://www.my54chevy.com


 
Keith_Knox 
Member #189 Moderator and "19th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 6620
Keith_Knox
Age: 79
Loc: Napa, Ca USA
Reg: 04-02-00
02-15-21 07:29 PM - Post#2814344    
    In response to Coupe50

This talks about the original bushing wear.

https://oldchevytrucks.com/blog/index.php/tag/okie...

29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1946 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup, stock. Purchased 11/18/17. Sold 9/16/20
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crew


 
drtyler 
"6th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 582

Loc: Georgia
Reg: 05-06-10
02-15-21 07:33 PM - Post#2814345    
    In response to dsacton

Did you upgrade the 6V system to 12V? I would assume that is necessary for the HEI system.

If your car is 12V now, you will need a resistor for the fuel gauge and clock. Or you can find a later fuel gauge (from 12V car) and adapt to fit.

I don't care for the ammeter myself, but I see no reason why it won't work with 12V.





 
rrausch 
"16th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 14491
rrausch
Loc: L.A, Cal. & St. Louis...
Reg: 04-07-03
02-15-21 09:39 PM - Post#2814357    
    In response to drtyler

Yes, your gauges will all work, but if your system is 12 volts, you must do as drtyler says. The proper resistor is called a Runtz resistor, and they are readily available through the Internet.

I am not sure how to tell if an aftermarket Oakie bushing has been installed in the torque tube or not.

I have also replaced the door hinge screws/bolts with no problems.

Before you start your '62, 235, power up the oil pump and make sure the rockers are getting oil. To do that, you'll have to pull the distributor out first. Some guys use a cut off screw driver chucked into an electric drill to power up the oil pump. I took an old 235 distributor, stripped it down, and removed the gear at the bottom and I use an electric drill to drive it and thereby power up the oil pump.



1953 210 Convertible, 261 with dual Carter YF 966S carbs, P.S., Remote Bendix P.B. Booster... shade-tree restoration about done.




 
56sedandelivery 
Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 5888
56sedandelivery
Age: 69
Loc: Everett, Wa.
Reg: 02-26-08
02-16-21 12:37 AM - Post#2814360    
    In response to Coupe50

As far as the Bendix VS the original Huck brakes, why not just leave the brakes as original? Just swap out the enclosed drive-line, and "third member", keeping your original housing, axles, brakes, etc. A lot easier swap to do. Now, if you're going to, or already have, updated the front brakes to Bendix or disc brakes, then swapping out the entire enclosed drive-line/third member/housing/axles, etc, might be easier than doing all the work just to update your stock, Huck brakes. Boy, is't this hobby FUN? Especially in Sweden where parts for these cars has got to be way more difficult than here in the States. Anyway, good luck with getting all your questions answered.
I am Butch/56sedandelivery.




 
Coupe50 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 162
Coupe50
Loc: Sweden
Reg: 04-27-14
02-21-21 01:54 PM - Post#2814813    
    In response to 56sedandelivery

Thank you all for the answers. I have 12 volt and have the parts for that. I was just a little worried that the gauge would be destroyed. It is a little adventure to have an old car here in Sweden but a lot of people have bought parts and cars from the US since the seventees so here is pretty much.



 
RAM_51 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 5938
RAM_51
Loc: Yakima, WA. USA
Reg: 12-28-02
02-21-21 07:07 PM - Post#2814836    
    In response to Coupe50

I wouldn't know where to begin if I were restoring a 1950 Saab here in the U.S.

Attachment: 1950_Saab.jpg (746.74 KB) 3 View(s)




1951 Fleetline Preservation
'51 Fleetline DeLuxe 2 DOOR SEDAN (Fathom Green)
'51 Styleline Special BUSINESS COUPE (Shadow Gray)
'53 6500 Dump Bed (Oxidized Red)
'50 Styleline DeLuxe 4 DOOR SEDAN (Mist Green)


 
johnwd98 
Contributor
Posts: 517
johnwd98
Age: 71
Loc: Little Falls, MN
Reg: 09-05-10
02-22-21 06:26 AM - Post#2814857    
    In response to RAM_51

I don't think I can ever remember seeing a 1950 Saab in person.


1950 Fleetline, 355 TBI, mild cam, 700R4, 3.73 posi rear Blazer axle, MII front. Remote door and trunk locks, GM cruise control, A/C,


 
Coupe50 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 162
Coupe50
Loc: Sweden
Reg: 04-27-14
02-22-21 07:07 AM - Post#2814861    
    In response to RAM_51

There are some Saab fanatics in US but it must be hard to find parts. Saab and Volvo was more common on the east coast in the 70-80:s so there are a lot of people that have bought back cars to Sweden. But i don't think the early Saab was sold in US. I guess they starting to sell those 2-strokes in the 60:s.



 
2ndtime50guy 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1837
2ndtime50guy
Loc: Midwestern U.S.A.
Reg: 04-06-12
02-22-21 11:50 AM - Post#2814881    
    In response to 56sedandelivery

I have two full sets of Hucks breaks if you need parts!

1950 Two Door Styleline Deluxe

>> My Build Thread <<


 
Coupe50 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 162
Coupe50
Loc: Sweden
Reg: 04-27-14
02-22-21 09:38 PM - Post#2814916    
    In response to 2ndtime50guy

Thank's for the info but i have disc in front and will change to bendix on the rearaxle.



 


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