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Username Post: 700r4 Transmission Wiring        (Topic#363969)
hdcolo 
Newbie
Posts: 24

Loc: Colorado
Reg: 08-04-17
01-13-21 08:57 PM - Post#2812036    

. . Hello again, , Getting the new 700r4 ready to install. . Question is how to wire for power. . Some I talked to say add an on/off switch. . Talked with one guy who wired his to the hot side on the ignition switch. . That sounds like easier operation. .
. . Any thoughts? ?



 


jayoldschool 
Poster
Posts: 55

Reg: 09-03-18
01-14-21 08:50 AM - Post#2812056    
    In response to hdcolo

Everything you need in one place.

http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/catalog/catalog_in...

Jason

65 Impala convertible 327/250 Maderia Maroon/black California black plate car


 
Impalas4ever 
Newbie
Posts: 36

Reg: 09-24-20
01-14-21 11:09 PM - Post#2812113    
    In response to jayoldschool


The kit is fine for someone with limited knowledge and parts. The converter solenoid is already in your trans, so that is not needed. The relay and associated wires are not needed unless you want to lockup in 2&3. I personally don't see why someone would want to lock up in 2 or 3rd, however I am open to ideas. In any case, locking up in tow modes is asking for trouble. So what do you need from this kit? The pressure switch, side connector if you don't have one, and dual brake switch and if you don't want to make a small harness the wire that goes from the side case connector, to the pressure switch and then to the solenoid. Seems like a lot for $129, however, again, if you don't have the stuff or want to make the harness, it is probably worth it.



 
hdcolo 
Newbie
Posts: 24

Loc: Colorado
Reg: 08-04-17
01-15-21 04:35 PM - Post#2812169    
    In response to Impalas4ever

. . Thanks. . The transmission is already wired for a single lead conversion. . Already have the double brake light switch. . Just thinking about where I want the power sourced. .



 
65_Impala 
Very Senior Member
Posts: 4666

Reg: 12-29-02
01-15-21 08:24 PM - Post#2812181    
    In response to hdcolo

You need ignition power. Fuse block ignition terminal or ignition switch would both work.

I know lots of people say it works great, but I absolutely hated the 700R4 I ran for a short time which was setup to get power and lockup when it shifted to 4th. It was a huge drop and the kickdown was a big jump up. At the least put a easy to reach toggle. You'll like it much better if you drop out the TCC if you need a little extra or are climbing a small hill instead of having to kick it down to get it out of lockup.



 
Impalas4ever 
Newbie
Posts: 36

Reg: 09-24-20
01-16-21 11:14 AM - Post#2812207    
    In response to hdcolo

Power comes from the break light switch. That's why when you tap the brakes it comes out of lockup like the factory. The power to the solenoid is in series through the pressure switch. The dual switch has one power point on, one power point off.



 
hdcolo 
Newbie
Posts: 24

Loc: Colorado
Reg: 08-04-17
01-17-21 01:42 PM - Post#2812272    
    In response to 65_Impala

. . Thank you. . You mentioned something that everyone else failed to mention. . Forth and lockup at the same time causing a big drop. .
. . I think the best idea is a lighted rocker switch, but where? ? Don't want to cut any holes in the console or cover. . Maybe inside the ash tray hole? ?



 
Impalas4ever 
Newbie
Posts: 36

Reg: 09-24-20
01-17-21 03:31 PM - Post#2812280    
    In response to hdcolo

Fourth and lockup do not happen at the same time unless you have the wrong pressure switch. Lockup changes the RPM about 2-300 rpm only. The trans goes in fourth, builds enough pressure to activate the pressure switch then goes into lockup. If you are concerned about lockup you can intercept the switch and do it when you want it, or put in a higher pressure switch. Also keep in mind that part of the cooling of that trans goes through the convertor goes through the TCC solenoid. Also if you are very concerned about gear ratios you might want to consider some changes in the trans that have nothing to do with lockup.



 
65_Impala 
Very Senior Member
Posts: 4666

Reg: 12-29-02
01-18-21 06:42 AM - Post#2812312    
    In response to Impalas4ever

I think you're talking about a governor pressure switch, which can be had in different pressures which would change the speed the switch closes. IF you're going to use one of those you need to have both the 4th gear pressure switch and the governor pressure switch wired in series.



 
Impalas4ever 
Newbie
Posts: 36

Reg: 09-24-20
01-18-21 02:39 PM - Post#2812348    
    In response to 65_Impala

I am only speaking of slightly changing when the lockup occurs. The pressure switch used on the throttle body. The last one I did ( on my current 65 ) 1 power wire from the brake light switch to the side case connector. Then to the pressure switch on the valve body, the other side of the pressure switch goes to the TCC solenoid. Two things control my lockup. Pressure, and voltage. If I change the pressure switch operating range it will either delay or activate earlier. The voltage comes from full time positive 12 volts from the dual brake light switch under the dash. Yes we can talk about modifying shift points within the trans through several means, however when the pressure switch is placed in the 4th gear of the valve body, it will only perform lockup when pressure is present there, and that is ultimately controlled by the pressure switch in series with the the TCC solenoid. The drop in 4th gear that people speak of is because of gearing differences, not lockup. I kinda think you have to expect a drop going into overdrive unless you either re-gear, or stay with a close ratio setup. I guess there is a many ways of doing this. I chose a 1 wire simple setup that would not need anything fancy. It basically mimicks the factory setup. If someone wants to go really simple, they can hook a 1 wire 12 volt switch directly to the TCC solenoid and lockup anytime they want ( which I don't recommend )



 
65_Impala 
Very Senior Member
Posts: 4666

Reg: 12-29-02
01-18-21 05:52 PM - Post#2812367    
    In response to Impalas4ever

Using a vacuum switch like the non-EFI GM stuff did is likely the best way, it will unlock as soon as you get into the throttle.




 


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