 Adam63impala
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 815
Loc: From Memphis to Florida
Reg: 12-01-15
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01-12-21 04:44 PM - Post#2811946
was driving home tonight, car seemed to be shaking a little more than normal . went to grocery store . pulled out and as I go to accelerate I hear a loud clunk sound and my car starts shaking very bad . I couldn't even go above 15 or the shaking was very bad . any ideas ? checked the tranny fluid and it appears full .
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69_BOWTIE
Senior Member
Posts: 1107
Loc: WYOMING,USA
Reg: 02-27-02
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01-12-21 04:50 PM - Post#2811947
In response to Adam63impala
Center carrier bearing does it do it only while moving??
2001 Silverado 4X4
2005 FXDWGI
69 CHEVY Short Step
63 IMPALA 2/DR HRDTOP 327 |
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 turbo38s10
"10th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1877
Loc: Agawam,MA
Reg: 09-17-09
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01-12-21 04:54 PM - Post#2811948
In response to 69_BOWTIE
dito on the driveshaft.
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Adam63impala
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 815
Loc: From Memphis to Florida
Reg: 12-01-15
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01-12-21 05:06 PM - Post#2811949
In response to 69_BOWTIE
yes only while moving and vibrated worse the faster I went . I was only going about 15 mph bc it was so bad . would the air ride suspension have maybe caused this bearing to go bad ?
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Adam63impala
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 815
Loc: From Memphis to Florida
Reg: 12-01-15
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01-12-21 05:16 PM - Post#2811951
In response to Adam63impala
also, is it supposed to make a clunking sound every time I put it in drive or reverse ? bc its done that for as long as I can remember...
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RambosRide
Poster
Posts: 53
Reg: 10-01-20
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01-12-21 06:50 PM - Post#2811965
In response to Adam63impala
Center carrier bearing or losing a u-joint...better crawl underneath and take a look!
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Adam63impala
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 815
Loc: From Memphis to Florida
Reg: 12-01-15
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01-12-21 07:15 PM - Post#2811967
In response to RambosRide
should I get a slip joint drive shaft since running air ride and riding low ?
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rrausch
"16th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 14493
Loc: L.A, Cal. & St. Louis...
Reg: 04-07-03
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01-12-21 10:16 PM - Post#2811981
In response to Adam63impala
Check your fan first. Old fans do break and send a fan blade flying. The resulting vibration is hard to believe. Been there, had that happen.
1953 210 Convertible, 261 with dual Carter YF 966S carbs, P.S., Remote Bendix P.B. Booster... shade-tree restoration about done.
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Nitroholic
"16th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 324
Loc: Out West In SoCal
Reg: 05-08-03
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01-13-21 09:00 AM - Post#2811999
In response to rrausch
The worn out u-joint or bearing that you have been listening to go clunk ever time you put the car in gear for as long as you can remember has probably now given up the ghost entirely.
Remove the driveshaft and renew all of the consumable parts.
'66 C-10 Short Fleetside Big Window
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Edited by Nitroholic on 01-13-21 09:04 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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 japete92
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1592
Loc: No. Virginia
Reg: 01-18-13
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01-13-21 09:09 AM - Post#2812002
In response to Adam63impala
should I get a slip joint drive shaft since running air ride and riding low ?
A few suggestions prior to 'guessing' and throwing money at the problem:
Look under the car for obvious problems.
Sitting still, in neutral; rev the engine. Hear your noise? If so, the problem is NOT in the drive train, nor the suspension.
When driving and making the 'noise', does putting the car in neutral (and coasting) make it stop? If so, it's likely in the drive train; not suspension.
Allow the car to roll down a hill (in neutral, engine running or not) and get up to the speed the 'noise' typically appears. Hear 'noise'? If yes, it's not torque related, it's speed related (suspension).
Another 'test' for 'speed' vs 'torque' causation; as the car is allowed to coast 'faster', does the 'noise' increase in frequency? If so, suspension needs a thorough inspection.
The proper drive train angles, and how to measure them, are in the 61 Shop Manual. Check 'should be' vs what you have. If you are significantly 'off', you are putting more stress on the drive train parts.
All 'free' inspections/tests.
In summary, find the problem THEN correct it.
Pete
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 DonSSDD
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 7483
Loc: Nova Scotia, Canada
Reg: 08-21-01
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01-13-21 12:44 PM - Post#2812017
In response to japete92
While coasting in neutral with engine running or not, the driveshaft is turning and if it’s a bad center bearing, it will likely be banging.
63 Pontiac Parisienne Sport Coupe(CDN Chev mechanically (409, 4 speed),62 Bel Air SC (sold), 59 El Camino (sold), 62 Bel Air SC(sold), 63 SWC Vette (sold),
Member #2194
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japete92
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1592
Loc: No. Virginia
Reg: 01-18-13
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01-13-21 01:23 PM - Post#2812019
In response to DonSSDD
While coasting in neutral with engine running or not, the driveshaft is turning and if it’s a bad center bearing, it will likely be banging.
You're right. The rear gears will rotate it as the wheels rotate. I know that. My bad.
Pete
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USCGMK1
Contributor
Posts: 191
Loc: Vicksburg, Mississippi
Reg: 07-24-15
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01-13-21 02:30 PM - Post#2812020
In response to Adam63impala
I’d check carrier bearing and U-Joint. I’d get the HD carrier bearing and slip yoke.
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ragtp66
Contributor
Posts: 958
Reg: 12-09-07
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01-13-21 07:39 PM - Post#2812032
In response to Adam63impala
Yes and YES best deal will be from show-cars.com You can buy just the rear half with slip yoke and the billet/poly carrier bearing
Toys:
1958 Impala 2dr Hardtop Under Construction
1966 Chevelle Malibu Convert M20/350 Aztec Bronze
1987 Sea Ray Pachanga 22
2002 Cadillac Escalade EXT Parts chaser
2007 Trailblazer SS -gone and missed |
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Adam63impala
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 815
Loc: From Memphis to Florida
Reg: 12-01-15
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01-14-21 07:43 AM - Post#2812051
In response to ragtp66
okay cool thank you . I'm headed to work and will have to check them out tonight . unless you don't mind telling how much they charge for that and if they are in stock? I hope this is an easy job for me to do in my garage
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Adam63impala
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 815
Loc: From Memphis to Florida
Reg: 12-01-15
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01-16-21 11:09 AM - Post#2812205
In response to ragtp66
little confused on that website .. what exactly do I need ? is a telescoping drive shaft the same thing as a split yoke ?
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DonSSDD
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 7483
Loc: Nova Scotia, Canada
Reg: 08-21-01
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01-16-21 12:13 PM - Post#2812212
In response to Adam63impala
Did you figure out what was broken?
63 Pontiac Parisienne Sport Coupe(CDN Chev mechanically (409, 4 speed),62 Bel Air SC (sold), 59 El Camino (sold), 62 Bel Air SC(sold), 63 SWC Vette (sold),
Member #2194
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Adam63impala
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 815
Loc: From Memphis to Florida
Reg: 12-01-15
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01-16-21 01:39 PM - Post#2812215
In response to DonSSDD
not yet. but from what I'm reading and being told it sounds like the drive shaft / carrier bearing . its never been replaced as far as I know, and I've had the car 20 years now . but I will do the tests people on here have mentioned doing tomorrow or Monday. I keep my car in my parents garage an hour away so I can't really get to it during the week . someone said pull on the drive shaft back and forth and see if there's alot of play ?
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Adam63impala
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 815
Loc: From Memphis to Florida
Reg: 12-01-15
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01-16-21 01:42 PM - Post#2812216
In response to Nitroholic
for some reason your post just now showed up . for me at least. so since I have the money would I be better off to just get a slip yoke shaft with a polly carrier bearing? do i need a whole drive shaft or just the rear section?
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dcairns
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 2208
Loc: Orange CA
Reg: 11-07-03
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01-16-21 04:24 PM - Post#2812224
In response to Adam63impala
Since I was changing to a 700r4, I had my driveshaft shortened and the slip joint added by a drive shaft shop. They were smart and insisted on having one of their guys come out and take measurements. I bet that saves a lot of grief all around.
Anyways, this is what is looks like:
- Dave
1964 Impala 4-door sedan
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turbo38s10
"10th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1877
Loc: Agawam,MA
Reg: 09-17-09
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01-17-21 05:42 AM - Post#2812245
In response to Adam63impala
Since you had no issues until now just pull the drive shaft and have a shop replace the u joints and carrier bearing and balance it and put it back in.
You don't need a slip joint shaft if you havent had any other issues.
Edited by turbo38s10 on 01-17-21 05:42 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.
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Adam63impala
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 815
Loc: From Memphis to Florida
Reg: 12-01-15
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01-17-21 06:51 AM - Post#2812248
In response to turbo38s10
copy that. do you know of a video that shows how to remove it? or is it simply just removing a few bolts and it slides out ?
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junky
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3662
Loc: Northeast CT
Reg: 06-27-10
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01-17-21 09:41 AM - Post#2812258
In response to Adam63impala
Take the 4 nuts off of the drive shaft universal U bolts, unbolt the carrier bearing, push the driveshaft forward a little bit, and lower it. Then pull it out from under the car. Put a drain pan under the end of the transmission to catch the oil or gear lube. Should take you more than a half hour to remove it. If you can get a plastic plug from a transmission shop, you can plug the end of the transmission to stop the loss of the oil. Takes a second person to do this.. one pulls the driveshaft forward, and the other one quickly puts the plug into the tail shaft.
While this isn't specifically for your car, it will give you needed guidance to do the job successfully.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rTyKrKosWvk
Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level, then beat you with experience.
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Adam63impala
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 815
Loc: From Memphis to Florida
Reg: 12-01-15
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01-17-21 11:49 AM - Post#2812265
In response to junky
thank you sir ! does more gear lube need to be put back in?
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Adam63impala
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 815
Loc: From Memphis to Florida
Reg: 12-01-15
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01-17-21 12:30 PM - Post#2812267
In response to junky
hmmm well, I dont have a big press. maybe be easier for me to just buy a slip yoke with new carrier bearing already on ?
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turbo38s10
"10th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1877
Loc: Agawam,MA
Reg: 09-17-09
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01-17-21 12:38 PM - Post#2812268
In response to Adam63impala
Once out take it to a local drive shaft shop. They are equipped to do it right.
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USCGMK1
Contributor
Posts: 191
Loc: Vicksburg, Mississippi
Reg: 07-24-15
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01-17-21 04:07 PM - Post#2812281
In response to Adam63impala
I bought my slip yoke from Inland Drive Line and I think the HD bearing too. I did all my driveline in my garage with C-Clamps. If you got bags I’d get a slip yoke and if your frame isn’t all painted and pretty you could trim the center of the frame some where the driveline comes out to help prevent binding if you have a higher lock up.
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Adam63impala
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 815
Loc: From Memphis to Florida
Reg: 12-01-15
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01-18-21 11:01 AM - Post#2812332
In response to USCGMK1
since its making the clunking sound when putting into drive or reverse do i need to replace the u joints at the part of the shaft that goes into the transmission? or would a slip yoke shaft/new carrier bearing take care of everything?
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DonSSDD
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 7483
Loc: Nova Scotia, Canada
Reg: 08-21-01
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01-18-21 02:57 PM - Post#2812349
In response to Adam63impala
since its making the clunking sound when putting into drive or reverse do i need to replace the u joints at the part of the shaft that goes into the transmission? or would a slip yoke shaft/new carrier bearing take care of everything?
You’d have to pull it out to find out what’s wrong, could just be the center bearing is shot and when you put it in gear, the “load” on the driveshaft torques it sideways. Other than the leaking transmission fluid is a pain/mess potentially, if you jack the car up and put it on 4 stands, it pulls out real easy. 2 nuts on the back end, 2 bolts on the bottom of the x frame that screw into the base of the center bearing. Then just push it hard forward until the driveshaft drops out of the rear pinion. Pull hard backwards and out it comes. It’s max a 30 minute job and not complicated at all. 9/16 bolts in the center and 7/16 or 1/2 on the rear at the pinion.
63 Pontiac Parisienne Sport Coupe(CDN Chev mechanically (409, 4 speed),62 Bel Air SC (sold), 59 El Camino (sold), 62 Bel Air SC(sold), 63 SWC Vette (sold),
Member #2194
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DonSSDD
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 7483
Loc: Nova Scotia, Canada
Reg: 08-21-01
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01-18-21 03:00 PM - Post#2812351
In response to DonSSDD
I wouldn’t bother with the rear shaft upgrade or the poly center bearing, unless you are a low rider or have 400-500 hp and go drag racing. Keep it simple.
63 Pontiac Parisienne Sport Coupe(CDN Chev mechanically (409, 4 speed),62 Bel Air SC (sold), 59 El Camino (sold), 62 Bel Air SC(sold), 63 SWC Vette (sold),
Member #2194
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