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Username Post: Has anyone solved this type of door alignment problem?        (Topic#362972)
56_Kruiser 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2912
56_Kruiser
Loc: St. Augustine, Fl
Reg: 09-23-05
10-19-20 11:18 AM - Post#2805777    

Both doors on my bubble top will not close in as tight as they need to to align right. The passenger door is worse than the driver, but in both cases, they stick out a little. I can push them in where they align nicely but of course can't get them to hold there.

The door striker needs to move inward towards the interior further in order to pull that door back. However I see no way to make that happen as the nuts that they bolt into are in a cage on the inside of the door jamb. So the holes in the body as well as moving those nuts would need to happen to accommodate that, which doesn't seem very feasible to me.

I did a little looking, not expecting to find anything, to see if there might be some door strikers that are different from original that solves this problem, and of course I found nothing.

Anyone know of a solution for this?

1956 Chevy
Vid of 61
61 Chevy


 


Verne_Frantz 
Member #574 "61-64 Subject Matter Expert"
Posts: 5881
Verne_Frantz
Loc: Hightstown,NJ USA
Reg: 08-22-00
10-19-20 11:27 AM - Post#2805780    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

I haven't cut a quarter panel apart to see exactly what's in there but I believe the "nuts" as you call them are really threaded holes in one plate that has a waffle surface to it to make it grip the inside of the door jam. The plate just may be stuck in place.
Try loosening the 3 screws a bit and tapping them (maybe use a brass drift). That should free up the inside plate and allow it to move.

Verne



 
msp177 
Contributor
Posts: 752

Reg: 02-16-10
10-19-20 02:30 PM - Post#2805782    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

Hinges could be bent?



 
junky 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3630

Loc: Northeast CT
Reg: 06-27-10
10-19-20 05:45 PM - Post#2805791    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

Verne is correct in his assessment of the situation. I would loosen the screws one at a time, and then just tighten it slightly. From memory, there are 3 screws you will need to do this with. Also, check behind the striker, since sometimes there is a shim behind the striker that might be hung up on the paint. With the 3 screws just barely tightened, place a block of 2x4 on the edge of the striker, and give it a nudge inward. If your doors have new rubber, this will make it more difficult to close the door, until the rubber "relaxes" somewhat. Just make sure when you are finished, that the striker meets the door latch properly, and that the striker isn't too high and causing it to lift the door. I like to make these type of adjustments with no door rubber installed, so there is no resistance to closing. Once all the alignment is done, then install the rubber gasket.

Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level, then beat you with experience.


 
56_Kruiser 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2912
56_Kruiser
Loc: St. Augustine, Fl
Reg: 09-23-05
11-04-20 02:06 PM - Post#2806987    
    In response to junky

Thanks for the suggestions.

On the backside of the door, uh, now sure what it's called. But the backside of the body where the striker mounts is what I would call a cage, inside of which is a plate with holes in it that slides out or in to allow the alignment of how tight the door is closed. When all the way in, the door still needs more adjustment in.

It looks to me that it would require mods to the cage and the holes in the body that the screws pass through. That would be a painful mood on a painted car.

I was hoping there might be some after market strikers that may provide the capability to close the door closer, but I suspect it's not a commonly seen problem.

1956 Chevy
Vid of 61
61 Chevy


 
RambosRide 
Newbie
Posts: 44
RambosRide
Reg: 10-01-20
11-04-20 06:47 PM - Post#2807002    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

  • 56_Kruiser Said:
Thanks for the suggestions.

On the backside of the door, uh, now sure what it's called. But the backside of the body where the striker mounts is what I would call a cage, inside of which is a plate with holes in it that slides out or in to allow the alignment of how tight the door is closed. When all the way in, the door still needs more adjustment in.

It looks to me that it would require mods to the cage and the holes in the body that the screws pass through. That would be a painful mood on a painted car.

I was hoping there might be some after market strikers that may provide the capability to close the door closer, but I suspect it's not a commonly seen problem.



Did you also install new door seals?



 
56_Kruiser 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2912
56_Kruiser
Loc: St. Augustine, Fl
Reg: 09-23-05
11-08-20 01:28 PM - Post#2807277    
    In response to RambosRide

Yes. But it was sonic same thing before. The door can be pushed to an alignment, but the striker can't be adjusted in as far as needed.



1956 Chevy
Vid of 61
61 Chevy


 
Blrpost 
Newbie
Posts: 1

Loc: Amery WI.
Reg: 11-07-20
11-08-20 04:15 PM - Post#2807290    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

I would start with oiling the hinges and the latch, then I would look at the body line at the top of the door where it meets the quarter and slowly latch the door watching to see if the door moves up or down as it latches to see if the striker is at the right height, if that’s good take the two rubber stoppers off the door and see if the door closes all the way. The striker can be a little sticky, the factory used a flexible caulk on the cage nuts which can make the difficult to move. If you need to move the striker loosen the screws and re snug them a little, I use a plastic hammer holding it on the striker and tapping it with another hammer watching to see if it moves, gently try the top and bottom of the striker.



 
64ss409 
Senior Member
Posts: 956

Loc: Montana
Reg: 12-04-02
11-08-20 06:03 PM - Post#2807299    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

Is it possible that the striker is in too far and the latch cannot go into final lock position? Just wondering.
Ron

1964 SS 409/340 4 spd, bought new Oct '63 from Ken Boggs Chevrolet, Geraldine, Montana
1962 SS convertible, 327/250 4 spd
1956 IH pickup, 327


 
56_Kruiser 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2912
56_Kruiser
Loc: St. Augustine, Fl
Reg: 09-23-05
11-16-20 02:44 PM - Post#2807887    
    In response to 64ss409

I've been down the path of checking all suggestions.

Today, though, I think I have discovered the problem. Maybe the video below will show it. I'm thinking I need a new door latch, not striker. Let me know what you think:

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1956 Chevy
Vid of 61
61 Chevy


 
55Brodie 
Contributor
Posts: 334
55Brodie
Age: 68
Loc: Little River, SC
Reg: 12-26-15
11-16-20 03:11 PM - Post#2807891    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

I think you're on the right track.



 
56_Kruiser 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2912
56_Kruiser
Loc: St. Augustine, Fl
Reg: 09-23-05
11-17-20 02:09 PM - Post#2807952    
    In response to 55Brodie

I believe you are right. I have one on order.


1956 Chevy
Vid of 61
61 Chevy


 
56_Kruiser 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2912
56_Kruiser
Loc: St. Augustine, Fl
Reg: 09-23-05
11-18-20 04:17 PM - Post#2808039    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

Wellll... Crap.

Installed a new door lock mechanism. It did help but did not fix the problem.

I have a buddy that thinks I should replace the striker. I may end up doing that but I really do not think it will help.

I don't know what part the plastic piece with the spring plays, but when comparing it to the one that works great on the left side, I can't see any difference, and when sliding the plastic piece against the spring tension it doesn't seem any different from the one on the left side.



1956 Chevy
Vid of 61
61 Chevy


 
turbo38s10 
"9th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1843
turbo38s10
Loc: Agawam,MA
Reg: 09-17-09
11-18-20 04:32 PM - Post#2808040    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

Has it been this way since you did the restore on the car?



 
pvs409 
"8th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 3049
pvs409
Loc: Sergeant Bluff, Iowa
Reg: 01-10-05
11-18-20 08:21 PM - Post#2808047    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

So did you use a reproduction door latch or a original latch with 4 philips mounting screws?

57 BelairHT 283/270hp 4 spd
62 ImpHT 327/300 4 spd
62 Imp CV SS 327/300HP 700R4 (sold)
62 Imp HT SS 409/482 stroker 4 spd
62 Imp SS 409 - 5 spd Convertible
http://paulstensland.com


 
56_Kruiser 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2912
56_Kruiser
Loc: St. Augustine, Fl
Reg: 09-23-05
11-19-20 06:29 AM - Post#2808072    
    In response to turbo38s10

  • turbo38s10 Said:
Has it been this way since you did the restore on the car?



Yes, it has. I have just revived the fight.

  • pvs409 Said:
So did you use a reproduction door latch or a original latch with 4 philips mounting screws?



I'm sure it is a reproduction latch. Purchased it from Ecklers. It also used the 4 phillips screws.

I searched on eBay, and only found used ones. I examined this one in comparison to the original, and it looks identical, for whatever that is worth.

Given thel problem, I feared a used one wouldn't be any better than the one I have.



1956 Chevy
Vid of 61
61 Chevy


 
turbo38s10 
"9th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1843
turbo38s10
Loc: Agawam,MA
Reg: 09-17-09
11-19-20 08:09 AM - Post#2808082    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

Here is a new right hand one:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1961-1962-CHEVY-I MPALA-2-...

There is also this one but says not for sport coupe
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1961-1962-CHEVY-I MPALA-2-...

Here is a used LH:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1961-1962-IMPALA- BELAIR-B...



Edited by turbo38s10 on 11-19-20 08:17 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
pvs409 
"8th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 3049
pvs409
Loc: Sergeant Bluff, Iowa
Reg: 01-10-05
11-19-20 12:07 PM - Post#2808093    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

I have used original GM restored door latches(both sides), silver color zinc plated like the originals were when new.

Paul



57 BelairHT 283/270hp 4 spd
62 ImpHT 327/300 4 spd
62 Imp CV SS 327/300HP 700R4 (sold)
62 Imp HT SS 409/482 stroker 4 spd
62 Imp SS 409 - 5 spd Convertible
http://paulstensland.com


 
56_Kruiser 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2912
56_Kruiser
Loc: St. Augustine, Fl
Reg: 09-23-05
11-19-20 02:22 PM - Post#2808104    
    In response to pvs409

@turbo38s10... That new one looks used to me. Looks like work paint on it.

Do I correctly understand that everyone still thinks this is problem?

1956 Chevy
Vid of 61
61 Chevy


 
56_Kruiser 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2912
56_Kruiser
Loc: St. Augustine, Fl
Reg: 09-23-05
11-19-20 02:24 PM - Post#2808105    
    In response to pvs409

@PVS409... Do you know of a place to get restored originals?

Have you ever heard of or seen a problem like this?

1956 Chevy
Vid of 61
61 Chevy


 
junky 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3630

Loc: Northeast CT
Reg: 06-27-10
11-20-20 05:03 AM - Post#2808138    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

  • 56_Kruiser Said:
@turbo38s10... That new one looks used to me. Looks like work paint on it.

Do I correctly understand that everyone still thinks this is problem?



What you are seeing on the NOS one is hardened and yellowed lithium grease. I found those on ebay a few days ago, and posted them to someone that I thought was looking for a latch on another forum. If I owned a 2 door car, even if I didn't need them at the time, I would buy them both, since reproductions are rarely as good as NOS. My experience is that latches either work or they don't. I would also replace the striker plate, since they do wear out.


Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level, then beat you with experience.


 
RambosRide 
Newbie
Posts: 44
RambosRide
Reg: 10-01-20
11-20-20 02:44 PM - Post#2808172    
    In response to 64ss409

  • 64ss409 Said:
Is it possible that the striker is in too far and the latch cannot go into final lock position? Just wondering.
Ron



Ron - does the impala use a 2 position catch? If so you could be correct..if the latch is too far in the 2nd position wouldn't latch... I know I had this happen on my Hudson once.



 
56_Kruiser 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2912
56_Kruiser
Loc: St. Augustine, Fl
Reg: 09-23-05
11-20-20 08:25 PM - Post#2808199    
    In response to 64ss409

  • 64ss409 Said:
Is it possible that the striker is in too far and the latch cannot go into final lock position? Just wondering.
Ron




I think I missed this post from earlier.

I am certain that it is going into both clicks. That was the first thing I checked

1956 Chevy
Vid of 61
61 Chevy


 
56_Kruiser 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2912
56_Kruiser
Loc: St. Augustine, Fl
Reg: 09-23-05
11-20-20 08:40 PM - Post#2808201    
    In response to turbo38s10

  • turbo38s10 Said:


Thanks for those links. I just ordered the NOS right one.

On the striker plate I don't find an original at this time. However I do see these refurbished ones Link

Anyone know anything one about this company?

1956 Chevy
Vid of 61
61 Chevy


 
Tri5man 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3951
Tri5man
Loc: Possums Crotch, KY
Reg: 06-26-07
11-21-20 08:45 AM - Post#2808235    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

For $24.97 what do you have to lose?



 
pvs409 
"8th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 3049
pvs409
Loc: Sergeant Bluff, Iowa
Reg: 01-10-05
11-21-20 09:17 AM - Post#2808240    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

Southeast Chevy is owned by Danny Howell. Danny Howell is the founder of the Classic Chevy Club ( 55-57 Chevy ) and the Late Great Chevy (58-64) Club. Both clubs sold parts and restored parts and were started in 1970’s or 1980’s. They had lots of paid members and put on numerous national 1000 point and driver shows every year using the help of local club chapters in different areas of the country.
I have 5 -1000 point awards( 987 to 993 points) from their 1000 point shows that used 3 judges for each class - for my restored 62’s.

Danny sold both companies to Ecklers Corvette about 10/15 years ago. Danny worked with 2 others on those clubs. Ecklers still publishes the club magazine and has separate parts books for those two sets of years.

Danny’s company and his staff ( his son is staff also) is extremely qualified to restore parts and sell quality parts because of the long term history and experience.

I have purchased a number of restored parts from them. Look over their web site lots of information & history listed.

Paul

57 BelairHT 283/270hp 4 spd
62 ImpHT 327/300 4 spd
62 Imp CV SS 327/300HP 700R4 (sold)
62 Imp HT SS 409/482 stroker 4 spd
62 Imp SS 409 - 5 spd Convertible
http://paulstensland.com


 
56_Kruiser 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2912
56_Kruiser
Loc: St. Augustine, Fl
Reg: 09-23-05
11-21-20 01:55 PM - Post#2808272    
    In response to pvs409

Thanks Paul. I appreciate the input.

I'll order the part from them.

1956 Chevy
Vid of 61
61 Chevy


 
56_Kruiser 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2912
56_Kruiser
Loc: St. Augustine, Fl
Reg: 09-23-05
11-21-20 01:59 PM - Post#2808273    
    In response to Tri5man

Just 24.97 + handling, shipping, and time. But then I've already lost $100 on the repo door mechanism from Ecklers. I decided to check them out first.

Paul had provided me info that makes me comfortable so I'll order the striker plate there.


1956 Chevy
Vid of 61
61 Chevy


Edited by 56_Kruiser on 11-21-20 02:00 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
junky 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3630

Loc: Northeast CT
Reg: 06-27-10
11-22-20 04:06 AM - Post#2808308    
    In response to 56_Kruiser

If the part from Echlers doesn't work properly, then send it back. The only way that these companies will improve the poor quality of parts, is when they get the return.

Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level, then beat you with experience.


 
56_Kruiser 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2912
56_Kruiser
Loc: St. Augustine, Fl
Reg: 09-23-05
11-22-20 01:41 PM - Post#2808348    
    In response to junky

I can't. I had to modify the opening mechanism to work with the Kindigit door handles.

One thing I noticed today: I closed the door and pushed it in slowly to see where the door is in relation to where it needs to be when I hear the second click. It is out... So it's not slipping back out once closed. It absolutely seems like my first thoughts were correct: I need to get that striker plate to mount further back in the door jam, which is not going to happen.

I was thinking about taking the striker plate to a machine shop and see if they can make a new gear for the bottom, placing the gear hooks further back.

I do have the replacement for both coming. I'm going to be surprised if that actually fixes the problem by replacing them.

1956 Chevy
Vid of 61
61 Chevy


 


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