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Username Post: Ball and spindle sized in steering knuckle        (Topic#362955)
mauryfrench 
“2nd Year” Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 40
mauryfrench
Loc: Wylie, TX
Reg: 12-26-19
10-18-20 11:03 AM - Post#2805692    

Good day everyone.

I had a lower ball joint come apart on the passenger side, dropping the control arm down. I got it towed to my driveway. After removing the control arm, I find the castle nut and ball seem to be seized in the steering knuckle.

And as you can probably figure, I cannot get a lot of leverage on the nut because a) the knuckle/wheel hub are moving all around with the lower control arm disconnected, and b) there is not a lot of room to work on top of that.

Any ideas? Those of you who remember any of my posts may remember I am not a mechanic and learn a lot of this stuff as I go.

I have been blasting the nut with penetrating oil but who knows if that is helping or not.

Once I get past this issue, I will likely be asking how to get that damn coil spring back in. But, one thing at a time.

Maury French
Wylie, TX
1998 Chevy ECLB 5.7 Vortec


Edited by mauryfrench on 10-18-20 11:05 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
someotherguy 
Senior Moderator
Posts: 29280
someotherguy
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
10-18-20 11:09 AM - Post#2805695    
    In response to mauryfrench

You can probably get a tie rod puller tool or similar tool in there to pop the broken ball joint loose. This is a fairly common failure on high-mileage trucks but I've never had to battle it myself so the perfect tool for the job isn't in my memory.

Richard

06 Silverado ISS / 06 Silverado SS / 06 300C SRT8


 
wagonman100 
Site Ambassador
Posts: 14763

Loc: Baltimore, MD
Reg: 11-27-04
10-18-20 11:43 AM - Post#2805700    
    In response to someotherguy

I would just grind or cut the nut off and then use a ball joint tool to push out the remains.

Jay
Friends don’t let friends drive Fords.

1999 Silverado Z71 4X4 extra-cab short bed
1983 Malibu Fauxmad - tubbed
1978 El Camino Kustomized
1972 Monte Carlo
1957 210 handyman wagon
1957 Nomad sport wagon
1957 Cameo Carrier


 
mauryfrench 
“2nd Year” Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 40
mauryfrench
Loc: Wylie, TX
Reg: 12-26-19
10-18-20 12:58 PM - Post#2805704    
    In response to wagonman100

I wondered about cutting the ball off with a sawzall and metal blade, but now that I really look at the taper of the spindle, I see that won't work. I may have to look at grinders.


Maury French
Wylie, TX
1998 Chevy ECLB 5.7 Vortec


 
mauryfrench 
“2nd Year” Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 40
mauryfrench
Loc: Wylie, TX
Reg: 12-26-19
10-18-20 01:00 PM - Post#2805706    
    In response to someotherguy

It won't go thru until the castle nut is off, and that is my problem. I did look up the tie rod puller though; that looks greats for forcing the spindle out after I get the nut off.


Maury French
Wylie, TX
1998 Chevy ECLB 5.7 Vortec


 
mauryfrench 
“2nd Year” Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 40
mauryfrench
Loc: Wylie, TX
Reg: 12-26-19
10-18-20 02:57 PM - Post#2805713    
    In response to mauryfrench

Follow-up everyone; I looked at it one more time and from one more angle, and managed to get the nut to pop right loose. So easy I don't know why I had such difficulty yesterday.

Thanks all for the help.


Maury French
Wylie, TX
1998 Chevy ECLB 5.7 Vortec


 
someotherguy 
Senior Moderator
Posts: 29280
someotherguy
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
10-20-20 08:03 AM - Post#2805816    
    In response to mauryfrench

  • mauryfrench Said:
Follow-up everyone; I looked at it one more time and from one more angle, and managed to get the nut to pop right loose. So easy I don't know why I had such difficulty yesterday.

Thanks all for the help.



Good job! Sometimes that's all it takes, just digging in and refusing to fail.

Richard

06 Silverado ISS / 06 Silverado SS / 06 300C SRT8


 
thx1138v2 
Contributor
Posts: 223

Reg: 05-01-14
10-22-20 04:20 AM - Post#2805948    
    In response to mauryfrench

It probably took the penetrating oil overnight to work. I just recently did my front end and that's the first thing I did was spray all the threads with penetrating oil - PB Blaster - and let it sit overnight.

I had a similar problem with A/C fittings and solved it the same way.

It's to the point where that's the first thing I do any more.



 
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