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Username Post: Front and Rear Disc Brakes        (Topic#362936)
Stickdude 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 50
Stickdude
Loc: Wyoming
Reg: 07-29-17
10-16-20 08:35 AM - Post#2805587    

I'm getting mixed info on whether or not I need (or should have) a vacuum brake booster for front and rear disc brakes. As a side note I want to keep the pedals through the floor so I am trying to figure out how to get a booster under there. I will be upgrading to a dual master cylinder. I am looking at kits and fabricating my own. Any help will be appreciated.



 


KoraB 
Poster
Posts: 99

Age: 64
Loc: Salt Lake City, Utah
Reg: 06-21-19
10-17-20 06:19 AM - Post#2805633    
    In response to Stickdude

Stickguy , KoraB here Im chiming in on this post first for encouragement, There are many posts on brakes, take time to read All Posts, on topic and not, its all good knowledge. Build relationships w/posters You feel that are knowledgeable, most are, great tech from factory and new info can be found. Ebay use will augment your build for parts, also the reg. source supply companies. As for brakes , with disks F/R you will find vac, assisted brakes work best . Your choice on which . There are 7 inch vac pods for frame mount w/pedal through the floor. W/change comes some form of fab, on your part or sub it out. Up grades bring change know that . Purists need parts and a good base to procure them, all parts wear. Skys the limit. Wish i had your rotisory for my car But, its getting done differently. Welcome to the forum, KoraB...

MB in SLC, UT.


Edited by KoraB on 10-17-20 06:22 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
51chevcoupe 
Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 139
51chevcoupe
Age: 58
Loc: Washington state
Reg: 08-14-09
10-17-20 08:00 AM - Post#2805638    
    In response to KoraB

It's not totally required to have a booster for disc brakes but it IS necessary to make sure that your dual pot master cylinder is for disc/disc. The booster just makes for less pedal effort. I have 4 wheel disc on my '41 Chevy and I put in a disc/drum master cyl. by mistake after an accident. Brakes were next to impossible to get dialed in between front and rear; drove me nuts. Finally figured out that the parts house had sold me a mis-packaged M/C. Swapped it out for the right one and I have excellent brakes again.
Oh and if you go with a under-floor booster set-up, make darn sure you protect it with a skid plate!

Ed
1941 Master Deluxe 2 door sedan- 283/TH350
1950 Fleetline 2 Door project
1950 Styleline 4 Door sedan
1951 Ford Deluxe 4 door sedan- 302/AOD



Still confused after all these years!


 
Stickdude 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 50
Stickdude
Loc: Wyoming
Reg: 07-29-17
10-17-20 09:55 AM - Post#2805647    
    In response to KoraB

I've read post after post and am learning a lot. That's part of the reason I don't post much, I read and read until I figure out what I need to know. Sometimes when I read and read I come away more confused, lol. Like when some people think a booster is necessary and some don't. I also have called a couple of the tech support folks at brake suppliers (and read their tech tips and such) and get different responses. I'm still doing different searches and finding more brake threads. Thanks for your reply, good advice.



 
Stickdude 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 50
Stickdude
Loc: Wyoming
Reg: 07-29-17
10-17-20 10:00 AM - Post#2805648    
    In response to 51chevcoupe

Thanks, right now I am leaning toward no booster but that may change. I will definitely put skid plate under what ever I do with the under floor MC. I'm in rural Wyoming so have to deal with gravel roads, mud, snow, running over small critters and such.



 
2D51STYDLX 
"10th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1146
2D51STYDLX
Loc: So. Prairie Washington
Reg: 03-03-11
10-17-20 12:43 PM - Post#2805654    
    In response to Stickdude

I went with a kit from Waltons Fab. Mounts on the firewall petal hangs down, haven't run the lines yet but I like it so far, quite a few similar kits all about the same price. Easy access to MC.

Roger
1951 2 door Deluxe Bone stock, well not quite, bucket seats.
Broken hearts and dirty windows
Make life difficult to see
Thats why last night and this morning
Always look the same to me
John Prine



 
GreatNorthWoods 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1170
GreatNorthWoods
Age: 78
Loc: Littleton, New Hampshire,...
Reg: 03-31-02
10-18-20 06:01 AM - Post#2805679    
    In response to Stickdude

I would suggest moving to a hanging pedal and use nothing less than an 8 inch booster. My '53 has a hanging pedal from a 2012 Chevy Captiva with a 9 inch dual diaphragm booster. This combination with rear discs will give you brakes like a new car. My son drove mine and said it stops better than his Lexus.

Vern

1953 Chevy Belair Sport Coupe - 355 Blueprint Engine, 700-R4, EZ Wire, Vintage Air, Ididit column, Cruise/Tilt, PS, 59 Corvette Steering Wheel, 4-Wheel Discs, Posies Rear Springs, Coker Radials, Nova 10-bolt, Mustang II, NCA Continental Kit.


 
Stickdude 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 50
Stickdude
Loc: Wyoming
Reg: 07-29-17
10-18-20 07:26 AM - Post#2805686    
    In response to GreatNorthWoods

I've been avoiding hanging pedals, not for any particulier reason just personal choice. Mostly I don't want to clutter the under dash. I'll review that option again. I know it makes more sense than hanging stuff under the floor for maintenance reasons.



 
54delivery 
Contributor
Posts: 128

Loc: Salem, OR
Reg: 11-19-13
10-19-20 08:49 AM - Post#2805763    
    In response to Stickdude

Check our Master Power Brakes https://www.mpbrakes.com/
They have complete kits for what you are looking into. I put one of their "under floor" disc/disc master cylinders with booster in my 54 sedan delivery and it worked our very well. The only hassle is, it's not real easy to check or fill the master cylinder under there.
You will appreciate a booster with front and rear discs, but if you have a strong leg and don't mind exercising it with every stop, you can get by without a booster.



 
51chevcoupe 
Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 139
51chevcoupe
Age: 58
Loc: Washington state
Reg: 08-14-09
10-19-20 08:07 PM - Post#2805797    
    In response to 54delivery

Uh... that website doesn't list ANY Chevy car models prior to '55.
Not so helpful on the 49-54 forum.... just sayin'

Ed
1941 Master Deluxe 2 door sedan- 283/TH350
1950 Fleetline 2 Door project
1950 Styleline 4 Door sedan
1951 Ford Deluxe 4 door sedan- 302/AOD



Still confused after all these years!


 
Stickdude 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 50
Stickdude
Loc: Wyoming
Reg: 07-29-17
10-20-20 05:28 AM - Post#2805806    
    In response to 54delivery

I have looked at that kit and looked at your pictures of it installed. It looks like you must have made some sort of extension. I called MP and they do not offer a power version of that kit.



 
Stickdude 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 50
Stickdude
Loc: Wyoming
Reg: 07-29-17
10-20-20 05:30 AM - Post#2805807    
    In response to 51chevcoupe

https://www.mpbrakes.com/pc_product_detail.asp?key...




 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 428

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
10-20-20 07:53 AM - Post#2805812    
    In response to Stickdude

Whether you need a booster or not depends on how strong your leg is, or how much effort you need to stop the car. I've got manual on my '39 Chev and I can lock up the brakes if I hit the pedal hard enough, but it takes some effort. I'm contemplating adding a vacuum booster over the winter, but I purposely left it out of my build because I didn't like the look of a firewall mounted booster. So I'll probably go with a chrome unit just so it's a little dressier.
A hanging pedal doesn't really clutter up anything under the dash. Since it's mounted to the firewall, there's just a brace to the dash to keep flexing to a minimum. Even with my shallow dash area on my '39 it's not an issue, and it's around the steering column area where that's already crossing the same area.
I made up all of mine from a new Corvette type master, and then built my own firewall reinforcing plate, and used a 2001 Subaru Legacy pedal assembly I got at the wrecking yard for $25. So I've got very little into my new brake conversion "kit".
The plate I used is overkill at 1/4" thick, and 1/8" would likely be fine. I built a cardboard template I bolted the master, and the pedal assembly to first, and then I determined where the pedal needed to sit under the dash, and drilled my center hole in the firewall first. Laid the cardboard template on the firewall, and marked out all the holes. Laid it on my plate and marked out all the holes too. Then simply bolted everything together and it was done. An easy less than one day project to build.







I've got maybe $60 into the whole brake setup, and another $35 for a manual proportioning valve to set front/rear braking.




1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
51chevcoupe 
Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 139
51chevcoupe
Age: 58
Loc: Washington state
Reg: 08-14-09
10-20-20 08:00 AM - Post#2805813    
    In response to Stickdude

I stand corrected but... A guy with a 1950 Fleetline or a '52 Styleline isn't going to look up a '53 Belair when searching for parts.

Ed
1941 Master Deluxe 2 door sedan- 283/TH350
1950 Fleetline 2 Door project
1950 Styleline 4 Door sedan
1951 Ford Deluxe 4 door sedan- 302/AOD



Still confused after all these years!


 
Stickdude 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 50
Stickdude
Loc: Wyoming
Reg: 07-29-17
10-21-20 06:25 AM - Post#2805892    
    In response to 51chevcoupe

That's for sure.



 
54delivery 
Contributor
Posts: 128

Loc: Salem, OR
Reg: 11-19-13
10-21-20 07:17 AM - Post#2805896    
    In response to Stickdude

Sorry, my bad. I should have checked out what Master Power Brakes is up to recently, as they have changed their product offering. Looks like they are focused on newer stuff now.
The master kit with booster I used from them is apparently no longer offered.
And yes, it included a long extension frame that placed the master and booster well behind the original crossmember mounting location, but with the pedal still swinging thru the original slot in the floor.



Edited by 54delivery on 10-21-20 07:21 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Lead sled 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 2045
Lead sled
Age: 60
Loc: Walton,NY.
Reg: 11-04-09
10-21-20 09:17 AM - Post#2805899    
    In response to 54delivery

Unless you plan to use a remote reservoir on the firewall, you'll most likely have to enlarge the original hole in the floor pan to fill the master cyl.

Late yr model (Dec. 51 BelAir/ 52 trim), with a basically stock 67 Camaro SS350/295hp Turbo Fire Edelbrock 1405, Saginaw 4spd/355 geared 55/6 Chevy rear.2,1st place,and 1 top five award trophies so far
http://www.picturetrail.com/bris51deluxe


 
Stickdude 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 50
Stickdude
Loc: Wyoming
Reg: 07-29-17
10-22-20 06:08 AM - Post#2805954    
    In response to 54delivery

I'd like to see some better pictures of that setup.



 
Stickdude 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 50
Stickdude
Loc: Wyoming
Reg: 07-29-17
10-22-20 06:14 AM - Post#2805956    
    In response to Lead sled

I do plan on using a remote fill. I think I read somewhere in this forum that the remote fill is also necessary to keep the brake fluid level above the wheel pistons. Still looking for that post again.



 
Stickdude 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 50
Stickdude
Loc: Wyoming
Reg: 07-29-17
10-22-20 06:26 AM - Post#2805957    
    In response to 54delivery

54, I was confused, the pictures I saw of the MPB w/booster I saw were in Bob Hayden's pictures. Do you have pics online?



 
1971BB427 
Contributor
Posts: 428

Loc: Portland,Or
Reg: 12-06-09
10-22-20 08:54 AM - Post#2805969    
    In response to Stickdude

A remote fill wont keep the brake level above the wheel cylinders. When using an under floor master you need to install backchecks in the lines so the fluid doesn't flow out of the wheel cylinders, or calipers.
This is why I prefer firewall mounted masters, if I'm not concerned about keeping a stock look. But if it's got to be under floor, you need the restrictors to keep the calipers/wheel cylinders full.


1969 Suburban 2wd 350
1939 Chevy pass. coupe 350/700R4
1937 Austin gasser 327/TH350


 
Stickdude 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 50
Stickdude
Loc: Wyoming
Reg: 07-29-17
10-22-20 12:20 PM - Post#2805979    
    In response to 1971BB427

Thank you very much for that info.



 
54delivery 
Contributor
Posts: 128

Loc: Salem, OR
Reg: 11-19-13
10-22-20 12:46 PM - Post#2805980    
    In response to Stickdude

Sorry I don't have pics online anywhere or any pics of the old MPB kit all by itself.
I do have some pics taken from under the car of it installed, although partially obscured by an exhaust pipe that I can email. If you think it could help you, pm me your email address.



 
54delivery 
Contributor
Posts: 128

Loc: Salem, OR
Reg: 11-19-13
10-22-20 05:28 PM - Post#2806000    
    In response to Stickdude

Check this out. This is very similar to what I installed.
https://www.performanceonline.com/1949-54-Chevy-Be...



 
Stickdude 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 50
Stickdude
Loc: Wyoming
Reg: 07-29-17
10-23-20 07:24 AM - Post#2806019    
    In response to 54delivery

I have seen that before. It is for auto trans only, I have a T5. It's not clear to me from their info how easily I might be able to adapt a clutch pedal mount to it. I'll give them a call. Kinda looks like that MC ends up under the front seat. I could fab my own but I have so much left to do on this car I am trying to short cut to speed things up a little. Thanks for the info.



 
Stickdude 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 50
Stickdude
Loc: Wyoming
Reg: 07-29-17
10-23-20 07:28 AM - Post#2806020    
    In response to 1971BB427

Thanks for sharing. That might be a good way to go. If it took you a day to fab it would likely take me 3 days, lol.



 


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