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Username Post: Front and Rear Disc Brakes        (Topic#362936)
Posts: 40

Loc: Wyoming
Reg: 07-29-17
10-16-20 08:35 AM - Post#2805587    

I'm getting mixed info on whether or not I need (or should have) a vacuum brake booster for front and rear disc brakes. As a side note I want to keep the pedals through the floor so I am trying to figure out how to get a booster under there. I will be upgrading to a dual master cylinder. I am looking at kits and fabricating my own. Any help will be appreciated.


Posts: 99

Age: 64
Loc: Salt Lake City, Utah
Reg: 06-21-19
10-17-20 06:19 AM - Post#2805633    
    In response to Stickdude

Stickguy , KoraB here Im chiming in on this post first for encouragement, There are many posts on brakes, take time to read All Posts, on topic and not, its all good knowledge. Build relationships w/posters You feel that are knowledgeable, most are, great tech from factory and new info can be found. Ebay use will augment your build for parts, also the reg. source supply companies. As for brakes , with disks F/R you will find vac, assisted brakes work best . Your choice on which . There are 7 inch vac pods for frame mount w/pedal through the floor. W/change comes some form of fab, on your part or sub it out. Up grades bring change know that . Purists need parts and a good base to procure them, all parts wear. Skys the limit. Wish i had your rotisory for my car But, its getting done differently. Welcome to the forum, KoraB...

MB in SLC, UT.

Edited by KoraB on 10-17-20 06:22 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 131
Age: 58
Loc: Washington state
Reg: 08-14-09
10-17-20 08:00 AM - Post#2805638    
    In response to KoraB

It's not totally required to have a booster for disc brakes but it IS necessary to make sure that your dual pot master cylinder is for disc/disc. The booster just makes for less pedal effort. I have 4 wheel disc on my '41 Chevy and I put in a disc/drum master cyl. by mistake after an accident. Brakes were next to impossible to get dialed in between front and rear; drove me nuts. Finally figured out that the parts house had sold me a mis-packaged M/C. Swapped it out for the right one and I have excellent brakes again.
Oh and if you go with a under-floor booster set-up, make darn sure you protect it with a skid plate!

1941 Master Deluxe 2 door sedan- 283/TH350
1950 Fleetline 2 Door project
1950 Styleline 4 Door sedan
1951 Ford Deluxe 4 door sedan- 302/AOD

Still confused after all these years!

Posts: 40

Loc: Wyoming
Reg: 07-29-17
10-17-20 09:55 AM - Post#2805647    
    In response to KoraB

I've read post after post and am learning a lot. That's part of the reason I don't post much, I read and read until I figure out what I need to know. Sometimes when I read and read I come away more confused, lol. Like when some people think a booster is necessary and some don't. I also have called a couple of the tech support folks at brake suppliers (and read their tech tips and such) and get different responses. I'm still doing different searches and finding more brake threads. Thanks for your reply, good advice.

Posts: 40

Loc: Wyoming
Reg: 07-29-17
10-17-20 10:00 AM - Post#2805648    
    In response to 51chevcoupe

Thanks, right now I am leaning toward no booster but that may change. I will definitely put skid plate under what ever I do with the under floor MC. I'm in rural Wyoming so have to deal with gravel roads, mud, snow, running over small critters and such.

"10th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1146
Loc: So. Prairie Washington
Reg: 03-03-11
10-17-20 12:43 PM - Post#2805654    
    In response to Stickdude

I went with a kit from Waltons Fab. Mounts on the firewall petal hangs down, haven't run the lines yet but I like it so far, quite a few similar kits all about the same price. Easy access to MC.

1951 2 door Deluxe Bone stock, well not quite, bucket seats.
Broken hearts and dirty windows
Make life difficult to see
Thats why last night and this morning
Always look the same to me
John Prine

"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1168
Age: 78
Loc: Littleton, New Hampshire,...
Reg: 03-31-02
10-18-20 06:01 AM - Post#2805679    
    In response to Stickdude

I would suggest moving to a hanging pedal and use nothing less than an 8 inch booster. My '53 has a hanging pedal from a 2012 Chevy Captiva with a 9 inch dual diaphragm booster. This combination with rear discs will give you brakes like a new car. My son drove mine and said it stops better than his Lexus.


1953 Chevy Belair Sport Coupe - 355 Blueprint Engine, 700-R4, EZ Wire, Vintage Air, Ididit column, Cruise/Tilt, PS, 59 Corvette Steering Wheel, 4-Wheel Discs, Posies Rear Springs, Coker Radials, Nova 10-bolt, Mustang II, NCA Continental Kit.

Posts: 40

Loc: Wyoming
Reg: 07-29-17
10-18-20 07:26 AM - Post#2805686    
    In response to GreatNorthWoods

I've been avoiding hanging pedals, not for any particulier reason just personal choice. Mostly I don't want to clutter the under dash. I'll review that option again. I know it makes more sense than hanging stuff under the floor for maintenance reasons.

Posts: 125

Loc: Salem, OR
Reg: 11-19-13
10-19-20 08:49 AM - Post#2805763    
    In response to Stickdude

Check our Master Power Brakes
They have complete kits for what you are looking into. I put one of their "under floor" disc/disc master cylinders with booster in my 54 sedan delivery and it worked our very well. The only hassle is, it's not real easy to check or fill the master cylinder under there.
You will appreciate a booster with front and rear discs, but if you have a strong leg and don't mind exercising it with every stop, you can get by without a booster.


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