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Username Post: Driver rear leaking brake fluid        (Topic#362563)
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 740
Loc: From Memphis to Florida
Reg: 12-01-15
09-13-20 03:05 PM - Post#2803400    

well had a scary time last night, luckily was only going about 3 mph when my brake pedal went to the floor. I can see brake fluid dripping out of the rear driver brake line right where it goes into the wheel cylinder. Its dripping out of the nut. Can't seem to get a wrench on it to tighten it. Do I need a line wrench or does anyone know what size wrench ? Thanks !


Posts: 323
Age: 68
Loc: Little River, SC
Reg: 12-26-15
09-13-20 04:21 PM - Post#2803406    
    In response to Adam63impala

probably a 3/8 line wrench or a new brake cylinder.

Valued Contributor
Posts: 3576

Loc: Northeast CT
Reg: 06-27-10
09-13-20 06:20 PM - Post#2803414    
    In response to Adam63impala

I am willing to bet that the line or lines are rusted, and that it has failed. Once you get under there, you will see for yourself the condition of the steel lines. If one is rusted, then I suggest that you replace all of them. Usually when a line is rusted, you will also find that the inside of the wheel cylinders also have rust. Most times you can remove the wheel cylinders and hone them, put in new seals, and you are back in business. I don't know your mechanical ability, so there is no sense in me going any further details. Should you decide that you want to tackle the job, it isn't rocket science, but you need some mechanical ability to complete the repair. Your other choice is to find a friend to help or take it to a repair shop. Depending on the shop, the complete job can cost approximately $500 for all 4 wheels with new cylinders, lines, and linings. At other shops, this could be a $1200/1500 job. The shops that I know are very fair, but not all are like them. You can go to rock auto to get an idea of what the parts cost.

Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level, then beat you with experience.

"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 209
Loc: Portland, OR
Reg: 04-16-13
09-13-20 06:21 PM - Post#2803415    
    In response to 55Brodie

3/8 should be correct. Sometimes replacement cylinders are 5/16. By line wrench, you must be referring to what I call a tubing wrench or a flare nut wrench. Do not use an open end wrench or you could easily round off the nut and make it useless.

Good luck,


"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 740
Loc: From Memphis to Florida
Reg: 12-01-15
09-13-20 06:42 PM - Post#2803419    
    In response to dgstarr

Went and picked up a 3/8 flare wrench and didn't take much but I tightened it and no more leaks ???????????? oh and the lines all look pretty new .. ive had the car 20 years now but they def aren't rusted and I haven't replaced them.

4dr 57 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 4691

Loc: Texas Hill Country
Reg: 11-10-04
09-13-20 07:50 PM - Post#2803424    
    In response to Adam63impala

I hope you checked all the other nuts before you bleed the system as it's an easy thing to forget in the heat of the moment sometimes.

It's all good. mostly


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