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Username Post: Want to upgrade alternator-goofy wiring?        (Topic#362136)
iRiE 
Poster
Posts: 88
iRiE
Loc: Sacramento, CA
Reg: 07-02-12
08-12-20 10:03 AM - Post#2800928    

Hey all...been a while!

Ive been noticing my car has trouble keeping its battery charged. At first I attributed it to a bad battery. And then to the rare driving habits. But recently Ive come to realize..that probably aint it.

Even with a brand new battery and keeping it topped off with a battery charger while not driving I still seem to have trouble. Specifically my voltage drops below 12v while Im driving and using the stereo. If it warms up and the electric fan kicks on it wont start once off and acts like the battery is dead while the fans on. When I wait it out until it cools or disconnect the fan it will start but just barely. Ive come to think its likely the 60amp alternator I have thats the problem. I need better charging!

So Im looking into getting a 140amp and upgrading the wiring to bigger gauge. But when I look at what the last guy did here Im baffled. Ive never upgraded an alternator so this is all new. But the way this is run doesnt sound like what others had when they upgraded. Namely a fat wire connecting directly to a battery or starter. Mine seems to go off into the firewall. Maybe to the ignition first?? What do you guys think?

Looks like 2 wires from the alternator (Small red and small brownish black) and a third green one from the firewall go to what must be the voltage regulator attached to the side of the engine compartment. The big red one from the alternator seems to go into the firewall. No grounding wire on the alternator. Im guessing he used the mounting bracket attached to the block as grounding. Does this routing make sense to anyone?

I suppose this means I should buy a 3 wire version Alternator (vice single wire) and then upgrade the wire to the ignition (or wherever its going!). Is this wiring setup even correct? Should I redesign this routing to go directly to the battery? Very confusing..



Smile...it confuses people.


 


iRiE 
Poster
Posts: 88
iRiE
Loc: Sacramento, CA
Reg: 07-02-12
08-12-20 01:32 PM - Post#2800939    
    In response to iRiE

Never mind. Found a schematic and configuration instruction deep in a Danchuk link. Looks like its probably correct. That “external regulator” I thought I was looking at was the horn relay. The red wire going off into the firewall is likely going to the after market amp gauge as shown in the diagram. My guess is this one has an internal regulator.

Smile...it confuses people.


 
GreatNorthWoods 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1140
GreatNorthWoods
Age: 78
Loc: Littleton, New Hampshire,...
Reg: 03-31-02
08-13-20 09:58 AM - Post#2800987    
    In response to iRiE

I'm running a 100 Amp three wire from a mid-80s Buick Century. If you convert to a high amp alternator ditch the ammeter and install a voltmeter. You don't want 100+ Amps flowing through your ammeter...:)

Vern

1953 Chevy Belair Sport Coupe - 355 Blueprint Engine, 700-R4, EZ Wire, Vintage Air, Ididit column, Cruise/Tilt, PS, 59 Corvette Steering Wheel, 4-Wheel Discs, Posies Rear Springs, Coker Radials, Nova 10-bolt, Mustang II, NCA Continental Kit.


 


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