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Username Post: replacing companion flang seal        (Topic#361990)
Posts: 65
Loc: michigan
Reg: 12-28-12
08-02-20 09:24 AM - Post#2800139    

need to replace the front seal what do i need to watch out for when doing this do i just put the flang back on and tighten it back up or do i need to do anything spefic never done rear end work before

its getting back on the road finally

Edited by ck122 on 08-02-20 09:25 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.


Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1244

Loc: Tennessee
Reg: 12-06-10
08-05-20 07:19 AM - Post#2800359    
    In response to ck122

You are supposed to replace the crush sleeve and reset the proper the pre-load on the bearings by turning torque and use a new companion flange nut. But that is a bit hard for most of us to do without completely disassembling the rear end.

But, I just removed the nut and companion flange, removed and installed a new seal, coated the splines with Permatex to stop oil migration, re-installed the companion flange and old nut and tightened it to about 150 lb/ft, enough keep it from coming loose but not too much to crush the sleeve further and change the pre-load on the bearings. It’s been about 10 years and 50,000 miles and still no leaks or noise.

Posts: 65
Loc: michigan
Reg: 12-28-12
08-05-20 06:56 PM - Post#2800408    
    In response to YOUNG57


its getting back on the road finally

Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 5820
Age: 69
Loc: Everett, Wa.
Reg: 02-26-08
08-06-20 10:53 AM - Post#2800445    
    In response to ck122

I would send a P.M. to Tom Parsons, AKA DZAUTO, here on Chevy Talk. He is THE 55-64 rear end guy on the board. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.

Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 14
Reg: 07-01-12
08-06-20 01:19 PM - Post#2800455    
    In response to ck122

I just replaced my companion flange seal - I was advise to mark the nut and flange with a chisel so when I put it back together it would be in the exact same spot. I won't know for a while if I messed up the pre-load because I have yet to put the engine in the car.

Member #248 Senior Member
Posts: 1713

Loc: kingman,az
Reg: 04-29-00
08-23-20 04:12 PM - Post#2801817    
    In response to UnclBob

I agree. mark the nut. carefully count the # of turns, down to a part of a turn. try to find a short length of pipe which will fit the far outside of the new seal. nowadays, seal metal is cheap and will bend very easy. apply a thin coat of silicon on but the seal housing and the machine surface of the center section. use a small hammer to just get the seal started, make sure it is square. then seat it home with a bigger hammer and whatever you find as a pusher. white lube the seal! check the companion flange for a worn groove. there are seal saver repair kits available from most parts places. if in doubt, buy a seal saver sleeve now. you dont want to have to do this again.
if the flange is OK, white lube it and install. I doubt that you will be able to get the nut up to 90 lbs. especially under a car. most important is that you get the nut back where it was and then if its very tight, call it good. if not 1/16 to 1/8 more wont hurt. I just did a 64 Olds and had to use a 4 foot breaker bar and a 4 foot flange holder to get 90 lbs.
make sure all surfaces are clean Clean CLEAN. and lube the seal and flange.
best of luck.
Rod in AZ


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