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Username Post: '50 Styleline Rear Brakes Stuck?        (Topic#361957)
Rust-O-Matic 
Newbie
Posts: 8

Age: 36
Loc: Gallatin, MO
Reg: 05-23-19
07-30-20 07:13 AM - Post#2799911    

'Mornin, fellas. I just bought a '50 4 door sedan that's been sitting in a barn since the '80s. I spent the last week buffing on the old faded paint and collecting tune up parts to get the 216 running.

I noticed when I loaded it on the trailer that the car didn't want to roll very freely, and realized last night that I cannot turn either rear wheel by hand (though, I believe they did roll when winching on/off the trailer). I'm not familiar with the Huck style brakes on these old rides and was hoping maybe you guys could suggest the best way to free it up, or at least where to begin.

On a '60s GM (I've got several), I would just find the adjustment hole/slot and turn the star adjuster until the shoes retract far enough to free the drum. Since the '50 doesn't have such an adjuster, I'm kinda stumped. To make matters worse, it doesn't look like many replacement brake parts are readily available for '50, so I wanna do as little damage as possible.

I'm also not familiar with the torque tube driveline setup, but I presume my issue is related to brakes rather than the rear end/driveshaft.(?) If there are other common problems that cause the rear to freeze up on these models though, please enlighten me.

Thanks!

If the ladies don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.


 


Rust-O-Matic 
Newbie
Posts: 8

Age: 36
Loc: Gallatin, MO
Reg: 05-23-19
07-30-20 07:19 AM - Post#2799912    
    In response to Rust-O-Matic

Here's a link to some photos of the car.

'50 Chevy Photos


If the ladies don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.


 
Tony 
Founder & Grand PoohBah
Posts: 18409
Tony
Age: 63
Loc: Orange County CA.
Reg: 03-15-99
07-30-20 07:41 AM - Post#2799913    
    In response to Rust-O-Matic



What a great start. Great photo quality by the way, what did you shoot those with?

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Dean50 
"14th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1532
Dean50
Loc: Detroit area
Reg: 01-02-07
07-30-20 08:49 AM - Post#2799916    
    In response to Rust-O-Matic

Welcome to Chevy Talk. There are adjuster wheels on the Huck brakes, one for each shoe.
Your NAPA store will be able to get brake parts, ignition parts, etc.
Here is the shop manual. Enjoy your new ride!
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1949_53/...

Dean50



 
2blu52 
"19th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 19378
2blu52
Age: 87
Loc: Montana
Reg: 03-12-02
07-30-20 09:03 AM - Post#2799917    
    In response to Rust-O-Matic

Check the emergency brake at the handle in the car and then where the cables run.If you can turn them you should be able to remove the drum. First check the studs as there is a slip on lock washer located at the base of at least one stud. Then if not able to remove you will have to try and un-adjust the brakes per the manual.

"PEACE IS THAT GLORIOUS MOMENT IN HISTORY WHEN EVERY ONE STANDS AROUND RELOADING"

THOMAS JEFFERSON


 
Keith_Knox 
Member #189 Moderator and "18th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 6444
Keith_Knox
Age: 78
Loc: Napa, Ca USA
Reg: 04-02-00
07-30-20 09:37 AM - Post#2799919    
    In response to Rust-O-Matic

Welcome to ChevyTalk. Looks like a good project. Buffing looks good. I got my brake parts from The Filling Station.
Chevs of the 40’s-- http://www.chevsofthe40s.com/
The Filling Station http://www.fillingstation.com/
Kanter http://www.kanter.com/
Landon’s Stovebolt http://www.stoveboltengineco.com/
http://www.steelerubber.com/
http://www.thehotrodcompany.com/
Jim Carter http://www.oldchevytrucks.com/
Your local Napa Store



29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1946 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup, stock. Purchased 11/18/17.
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crew


 
Rust-O-Matic 
Newbie
Posts: 8

Age: 36
Loc: Gallatin, MO
Reg: 05-23-19
07-30-20 11:36 AM - Post#2799925    
    In response to Tony

Thanks very much for the warm welcome and the quick responses. I'll see if I can address everyone individually below. It sounds like I just overlooked the adjusted holes when I was looking at it last night. I'll take a closer look after work and see what I can tear up...

  • Tony Said:

What a great start. Great photo quality by the way, what did you shoot those with?



Thanks, Tony. I actually took those photos with my cell phone (Moto G7), nothin' fancy. It doesn't hurt that the subject is so photogenic!

  • Dean50 Said:
Welcome to Chevy Talk. There are adjuster wheels on the Huck brakes, one for each shoe.
Your NAPA store will be able to get brake parts, ignition parts, etc.
Here is the shop manual. Enjoy your new ride!
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1949_53/...


Unfortunately, Napa and the other local parts places do not seem to carry drums, cylinders, hardware, etc. for '49-'50. Ignition parts seem to be common though. Which is good, because it looks like my distributor was stored in the bottom of a river for a few years. I appreciate the manual link, I shoulda started there before I started asking questions lol.

  • 2blu52 Said:
Check the emergency brake at the handle in the car and then where the cables run.If you can turn them you should be able to remove the drum. First check the studs as there is a slip on lock washer located at the base of at least one stud. Then if not able to remove you will have to try and un-adjust the brakes per the manual.


I am sorta suspicious of the e-brake as well, since its both rear wheels acting up. I made sure the handle was in the released position, but that doesn't necessarily mean the mech inside the drum IS released. I noted quite a bit of slack in the cable running to the rear. I'll look into the items you mentioned.

  • Keith_Knox Said:
Welcome to ChevyTalk. Looks like a good project. Buffing looks good. I got my brake parts from The Filling Station.
Chevs of the 40’s-- http://www.chevsofthe40s.com/
The Filling Station http://www.fillingstation.com/
Kanter http://www.kanter.com/
Landon’s Stovebolt http://www.stoveboltengineco.com/
http://www.steelerubber.com/
http://www.thehotrodcompany.com/
Jim Carter http://www.oldchevytrucks.com/
Your local Napa Store


Thank you very much for this list of vendors! I'm aware of the first few, but never heard of the others. I'll check em out.


If the ladies don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.


 
lobucrod 
Contributor
Posts: 672
lobucrod
Age: 68
Loc: Slaton, TX
Reg: 10-01-07
07-30-20 11:45 AM - Post#2799926    
    In response to Rust-O-Matic

If the car was in a humid environment the brake shoes man have swollen and can even rust to the drums. The adjustment for the huck brakes is at the top of the backing plate instead of the bottom. Theres a good chance that the adjusters are stuck too. Might have to do some prying to get the drums off. they can be a bear especially if the shoes are worn into the drum enough to form a lip on the edge of the drums.

'38 Chevy Coupe Gasser 409 powered
'50 Sedan Delivery 401 Nailhead powered
'62 Buick Electra original survivor


 
Rust-O-Matic 
Newbie
Posts: 8

Age: 36
Loc: Gallatin, MO
Reg: 05-23-19
07-30-20 12:00 PM - Post#2799928    
    In response to lobucrod

  • lobucrod Said:
If the car was in a humid environment the brake shoes man have swollen and can even rust to the drums. The adjustment for the huck brakes is at the top of the backing plate instead of the bottom. Theres a good chance that the adjusters are stuck too. Might have to do some prying to get the drums off. they can be a bear especially if the shoes are worn into the drum enough to form a lip on the edge of the drums.



I suspect you are correct, and I will have a fight on my hands. I'll probably locate the adjusters this evening and start soaking them in PB blaster so they can soak until I have more time this weekend.


If the ladies don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.


 
51chevcoupe 
Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 106
51chevcoupe
Age: 58
Loc: Washington state
Reg: 08-14-09
07-30-20 12:19 PM - Post#2799930    
    In response to Rust-O-Matic

You will probably have to go "old school" to get them freed up if they have rusted to the drums. Jack the car up and remove the wheel, then take a 2-3 lb. hammer and sharply rap around the outer diameter of the drum then on the edges of the face of the drum being very careful NOT to strike the lug studs. It can take awhile to get them to vibrate loose. A lot of times you have to back the adjusters off AND smack it several times to get clearance to allow the wheel to rotate freely. Patience (and controlled violence with the hammer, lol) will get them free. BTW, you've got a good looking car, it looks like it will clean up nicely.


Ed
1941 Master Deluxe 2 door sedan- 283/TH350
1950 Fleetline 2 Door project
1950 Styleline 4 Door sedan
1951 Ford Deluxe 4 door sedan- 302/AOD



Still confused after all these years!


 
Rust-O-Matic 
Newbie
Posts: 8

Age: 36
Loc: Gallatin, MO
Reg: 05-23-19
07-30-20 01:04 PM - Post#2799933    
    In response to 51chevcoupe

  • 51chevcoupe Said:
You will probably have to go "old school" to get them freed up if they have rusted to the drums. Jack the car up and remove the wheel, then take a 2-3 lb. hammer and sharply rap around the outer diameter of the drum then on the edges of the face of the drum being very careful NOT to strike the lug studs. It can take awhile to get them to vibrate loose. A lot of times you have to back the adjusters off AND smack it several times to get clearance to allow the wheel to rotate freely. Patience (and controlled violence with the hammer, lol) will get them free. BTW, you've got a good looking car, it looks like it will clean up nicely.



Thank you kindly! I get a little more excited with each piece I polish. And "controlled violence" shoulda been my middle name. I'll give 'er a whirl.

If the ladies don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.


 
Rust-O-Matic 
Newbie
Posts: 8

Age: 36
Loc: Gallatin, MO
Reg: 05-23-19
08-03-20 11:15 AM - Post#2800211    
    In response to Rust-O-Matic

Just a quick update:
3 of the 4 adjusters on the rear cylinders were seized and I ended up damaging them a little bit.

Since the (presumably original) drums have 3 grooves cast into the exterior of them, I was able to use a hammer and a large screwdriver to drive them off. This worked like a charm. Now I have access to everything and can start collecting replacement parts. Thanks everybody for your help!

If the ladies don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.


 
2blu52 
"19th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 19378
2blu52
Age: 87
Loc: Montana
Reg: 03-12-02
08-03-20 01:46 PM - Post#2800219    
    In response to Rust-O-Matic

It may be that the grooves were not cast into the drums, in the days of riveted linings grooves were a very common result of worn out shoes and lack of bucks for a proper repair. I make this comment as it has been a long time since I have viewed a Huck brake drum.

"PEACE IS THAT GLORIOUS MOMENT IN HISTORY WHEN EVERY ONE STANDS AROUND RELOADING"

THOMAS JEFFERSON


Edited by 2blu52 on 08-03-20 01:48 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Rust-O-Matic 
Newbie
Posts: 8

Age: 36
Loc: Gallatin, MO
Reg: 05-23-19
08-03-20 08:06 PM - Post#2800253    
    In response to 2blu52

  • 2blu52 Said:
It may be that the grooves were not cast into the drums, in the days of riveted linings grooves were a very common result of worn out shoes and lack of bucks for a proper repair. I make this comment as it has been a long time since I have viewed a Huck brake drum.



The friction surface looks to be in pretty good shape. Grooves are on the outside. Here's a couple pics. Everything is fairly clean.









If the ladies don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.


 
51chevcoupe 
Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 106
51chevcoupe
Age: 58
Loc: Washington state
Reg: 08-14-09
08-03-20 08:21 PM - Post#2800254    
    In response to Rust-O-Matic

Glad to see that you prevailed!! Controlled violence is frequently the answer, huh?!

Ed
1941 Master Deluxe 2 door sedan- 283/TH350
1950 Fleetline 2 Door project
1950 Styleline 4 Door sedan
1951 Ford Deluxe 4 door sedan- 302/AOD



Still confused after all these years!


 
junky 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3475

Loc: Northeast CT
Reg: 06-27-10
08-04-20 01:39 PM - Post#2800301    
    In response to Rust-O-Matic

For getting rusted parts apart, I gave up on PBlaster, and now use Deep Creep by SeaFoam. Works faster and better! I would be careful removing the parts, and turn 1/4 turn off, and then 1/4 turn on, until you get the bolt or part removed. There are a few ways to remove rust, such as Enviorust, electrolysis, glass beading, etc. Before you start, using a cheap bristle paint brush, brush all the brake parts with dishwashing liquid and water to remove brake dust and do a general clean up. Hose it off, and once it dries, you have clean parts to remove. If you can save the wheel cylinders, that is best. You can hone them and then give them a follow up bath in soapy water to finish up. Then rebuild using brake assembly fluid, and new parts. You will be miles ahead than if you buy new "made in China" parts. Also check the condition of the brake lines, and replace if necessary. Don't forget the rubber lines at the front wheels and the one over the differential.
The linings on the car were originally riveted, but they have been replaced with bonded linings. I would just reuse them unless you find some defect in them. Do only one side at a time, so you have the other side for reference if it doesn't go back together correctly.

Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level, then beat you with experience.


 
2blu52 
"19th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 19378
2blu52
Age: 87
Loc: Montana
Reg: 03-12-02
08-04-20 02:52 PM - Post#2800308    
    In response to junky

Wheel cylinders for the Huck brakes can be expensive, I would check on having them bored out and stainless steel liners installed. My apologies for my remarks concerning the grooves I missed the word EXTERNAL when reading the post.

"PEACE IS THAT GLORIOUS MOMENT IN HISTORY WHEN EVERY ONE STANDS AROUND RELOADING"

THOMAS JEFFERSON


 
Rust-O-Matic 
Newbie
Posts: 8

Age: 36
Loc: Gallatin, MO
Reg: 05-23-19
08-04-20 05:10 PM - Post#2800324    
    In response to 2blu52

I've actually already ordered wheel cylinders, master cylinder, hoses, and shoes. I have tubing and fittings in the shop to replace any hard lines that look bad. Got new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil, points, condenser, and service manual while I was at it.

The crappy part is that '49-'50 wheel cylinders are no longer in production, at least according to lots of searching and several forums. The $40-$100 repops sold by the specialty places like Chevsofthe40s and Ecklers, marketed as '49-'50, appear to be standard pre-'48 style, as their bore sizes are each off 1/16". The same cylinders can be had much cheaper at Rockauto.

I presume my cylinders have been worked over before, because there was a brake hone laying in the back seat, and the condition of the brake parts would seem to suggest someone has done some work in there in recent... decades. I'm gonna swap in the reproduction cylinders to get the car on the road again, and can always look into rebuilding the originals right later.

If the ladies don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.


 


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