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Username Post: anyone done high amp alternators?        (Topic#361545)
Posts: 180

Reg: 03-20-18
06-27-20 07:08 PM - Post#2797341    

added 7-29-20: I should clarify The high amp alt needs to be "continuous duty" heavy duty style.
to handle the long continuous charge time of house batteries.

Covid -19 paranoia has seriously and devastatingly harmed those of us in the disability community.

If I do not solve my van power and heating problems. It is very likely I will not survive winter. Due to the exclusion of people with disabilities out of irrational fears over covid-19.

I have lost so much access to services and am starting to lose access to food with plenty of money to buy it. Due to discrimination related to irrational fears over covid-19. Like not being able to wear masks due to health complications. Along with other issues that keeps me from getting food in other ways. So physical access is the only means for me.

Also public places are not being opened and I fear that these places will not be open over the winter, Meaning Living in the van 24/7 in minnisota cold winters which been getting colder due to all the volcanic activities over last couple of years.

So I need power for when my van is NOT running and I need it to be able to charge solely off the alternator quickly. Do to exclusion and inability to get landline power.

I think I can up my idle a bit via drilling out the plug in the Throttle body and adjusting it up because at its lowest it runs at only 485 rpm at idle.

Its almost entirely stop and go driving I am doing so the alternator needs to have high output at idle. but my issue I am seeing is the base idle vs the voltage. How high can I increase the voltage on the system alternator output?

THe factory only does 13.5 volts at idle. THe X2 power battery when first installed was 14.3 volts.

The factory alternator is seriously struggling to charge the battery. THe battery has now dropped in voltage too low twice in single year. because the alternator is unable to fully charge the capacity of the battery.

The factory alt is working flawlessly. So what ever I do I need to upgrade the alt. but problem having is finding the right one for stop and go that won't fry the van but also charge a solid core high capacity battery or battery with house batteries quickly. SOlid core agm top battery post goes straight through the core no wires between post and core. This allows dumping high amps possible with minimal harm to battery. Unlike other AGM's.

Right now am considering going two batteries get a starter battery and use the current dual purpose battery as house battery. so need to isolate the two off the same alternator as well.

I get generally what I need to do but my head starts swimming with too many details when trying to visualize how the system will work, especially when I don't have the system right in front of me to look at.

What ever I do is going to be custom, I get that unless someone know actual working kits that can be thrown in.

I am trying to avoid adding a second alternator on the basis that you can't charge one battery with two alts.

I am trying to keep costs down because I could suddenly lose this van which almost happened last fall, when rear ended by distracted overly aggressive driver.

but was prepared to pay up to $800 or slightly more if second battery is involved.

Would like to stick to factory mounts since do not have a shop to custom build brackets etc.

Van spec 1987 GMC g2500 vandura 4.3l v6. The alt is a single wire off back I believe its a 4pin connector. to the internal regulator. the belt is a 4ribed serpentine. (NOT 6)

I was looking at either a propane based heater that exhausts through the floor or a diesel heater. with a tank in cab. thinking modifying a fire safety fuel can . I am already carrying propane in van using the kwik trip 20lb tanks?

but need power to run the fans etc, when van is off.
problem I am having with that besides the power is getting it shipped to me being I have only a P.O. box. and these businesses refusing to return my emails to resolve shipping issues etc because the local assesory truck modifying shops refuse to special order things from their catalogs and or can't because the manufacture is anal about who they distribute to.

in terms of the heater REFUSE to buy the Chinese knockoffs Their circuit board is exposed to condensation etc. and they claimed it was gas powered when it was in fact a knockoff of the diesel version. based on youtube review comparing the two.

the heater system about 600-800 thus why I put limit at about 800 for power system upgrade.

I am relying on the stimulus to pay for the bulk or all of what ever I do. NO I have not spent that yet.

Any help that you could provide would be greatly appreciated and could possibly save my life.


PS I wrote this while sitting outside on the ground of the CLOSED library.

when asking Questions its related to van I own: 1987 GMC 3/4 ton G2500 vandura, V6, No AC, standard length. 3speed trans(no overdrive).

Edited by VanLife on 07-29-20 04:32 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

Member #271 Senior Chevytalk Moderator
Posts: 25197
Loc: Austin, TX 78748
Reg: 05-09-00
06-28-20 09:34 AM - Post#2797369    
    In response to VanLife

Increasing voltage above 13.5 is not a good charging gauge. Increasing amps does help. I'm running a 165 Denali amp alternator in my truck. It's amp hungry due to dual cooling fans, A/C demand, power options, and stereo equipment. When the battery goes low for alarm use or non driving time, a quick boost starts it up. After a short drive, the 165 amp alternator charges the battery enough to keep starting it over and over. A stock alternator should be able to go 110 amps. Camaro and Corvettes used 110 amp or higher models. Can you identify the alternator model? Or send me a pic and I'll post it.

'83 Silverardo XST - ZZ4 powered
'95 Jimmy SLT (Bought @131,814)
'96 GMC Jimmy LS Ret. @236651 miles
'08 GMC Acadia 3.6L SLE

Senior Chevytalk Moderator -- Performance Subject Matter Expert --
Posts: 17520
Age: 72
Reg: 03-16-01
06-28-20 10:45 AM - Post#2797374    
    In response to gchemist

heres a 200 amp alt for the 88-91 corvettes
I installed on in my 1985 corvette and it made a significant improvement,
in the cooling fan speed and ignition spark strength, smoothing the idle.

Call (800)753-2242
they are knowledgeable and if you ask questions before buying youll have zero problems ... 0-amp.aspx

related links and threads


Edited by grumpyvette on 06-28-20 10:47 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

Super Senior Member
Posts: 5661

Loc: paradise
Reg: 09-05-03
06-28-20 12:13 PM - Post#2797380    
    In response to VanLife

you may need to add on deep cycle batteries. a regular battery does not like to be deep cycled. i would try to get your vehicle as insulated as possible.

70 L camino, grampa engine, g-force 5 spd, road rage suspension. Pray first before all else fails.

"2nd Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 14
Loc: Riverside county ,CA
Reg: 04-05-19
06-29-20 08:16 PM - Post#2797495    
    In response to VanLife

check out high output alternators 865-522-6166

Posts: 180

Reg: 03-20-18
07-25-20 08:44 AM - Post#2799493    
    In response to tractordrivindan

I am using the dual purpose x2 power 68ah starter/deepcycle the 105-110 amp is NOT enough I upgraded the alternator to the stock AC version in the non AC van. so went from 85 amp to 105 or 110.

THe problem with stock alternators is the number of rectifiers in the alt. and other issues that causes the alt to over heat and cause a safety shutoff. or voltage drop off.

I am thinking of moving the starter battery into the van cab since its a sealed AGM. little to no off gassing. Since the house battery/ies will be in there as well.

I was looking at the x2 power SLI8dAGM truck battery its a 2 in one Northstar solid core.

But I am trying to find out the charging profile compared to two individual batteries daisy chained. THe thing is: unless you put in an extreme duty alt or better you do NOT want to charge battery from deep discharge using a alternator because you will fry a standard alternator from continuous charging. Which is what I will be doing unless I can get the charging profile down to fraction of my total drive time.

Reason I was asking about the voltage is its standard for alts to put out 13.8 up to 14.5 even the factory OEM one on my van currently puts out 14.3 volts while in charging mode but kicks down when it thinks the battery is fully charged.

I am going with a redarc smart isolator that is priced at about $266

I saw a "smart switch" isolator, dual diode style one with an ultra low heat loss curve of 9watt energy loss instead of the 166 or 366 watt loss its competitors have. but I am not comfortable dishing over600-700$ for it. (used in firetrucks ambulances commercial crafts. etc.

I will be removing the passenger seat Since I plan on adding a heater that rated as 2.2 amp draw at full heating. I think it will make enough room for everything. Just have not figured out how am going to handle diesel fuel in cab. everyone around here last winter was running into problems with it freezing fuel, want it where its not going to get to cold and solidify. It is extremely expensive to treat diesel fuel from freezing. Saw a treatment that was priced at 89$.

I Was looking at the appollo v-2 parking heater.

will probably be using high performance 0awg cabling for entire charging system and upgrading the wire that connects the starter battery to the terminal on the fire wall if I move the battery to cab right over the starter to reduce resistance.

I was originally thinking using 2/0 wire but Was told not to use that in automotive applications. with no explanation of why.

By moving the starter battery into the cab it will not suffer the high engine compartment heat problem that is deter-mental to recharging batteries and can keep the voltage up for the whole charging process. The key is having the right regulator that switches the voltage down on the Alt once it detects charged batteries.

It will also be closer to the starter and grounding point meaning not needing as long of cables. so less drop in current loss.

What I do not understand is why there is no fuse between the starter and starter battery anyone can explain that?

when asking Questions its related to van I own: 1987 GMC 3/4 ton G2500 vandura, V6, No AC, standard length. 3speed trans(no overdrive).

Posts: 180

Reg: 03-20-18
07-25-20 09:04 AM - Post#2799496    
    In response to tractordrivindan

I bumped into mechman site. I do not want to be paying premium price to cover cosmetic improvements. I am focused on spending my money on performance and durability I don't give 2cents to looks. My aim is to survive.

What I have to be careful with is not exceeding the isolator max amp which is 200amp or fry the isolator.

I also looked at DC power inc. at their xp line. THe lowest amperage one I see on their site is for a 250amp :/ so not the right one for me.

I was also looking at the cs144 style alternators with dual rectifiers.

here example

I do not know if this would be the right path for me because I am NOT familiar with them.
One thing I do know is I am limited in space due to location of the oil fill tube and small engine size that causes the front of the engine to be back where the firewall is. so its tight and NO room for secondary alternator.

when asking Questions its related to van I own: 1987 GMC 3/4 ton G2500 vandura, V6, No AC, standard length. 3speed trans(no overdrive).

Posts: 180

Reg: 03-20-18
07-25-20 09:22 AM - Post#2799499    
    In response to bobb

First thing I did was 2inch foamular (pink panther) r10-r11 insulation board on floor, walls, and roof and 4 of 5 doors. even covered over the side windows behind seats. and rear windows in winter.

I need to redo the roof to remove the airspace and put the insulation in strips to follow the curve of roof. Too much condensation in winter. sealing did not help, cold still pulled the moisture between the roof and insulation.

If you missed it I said I was using a dual purpose battery that is rated 68ah alternator could not keep up to that.

I think my issue is I am using more power than I realize. or the fans I am using use a higher amperage than they claim. but it should not be an issue when I dropped the voltage from 9 volts down to 7.5 volts for the fans. but I am running them 24-7.

I think my battery is suppose to be able to run fans for 20 hours at a 2.5 amp draw. This is MORE than what it actually draws I believe. my battery is rated with reserve of 25amp draw for 122 minutes.

SO took ((25amps divide 2.5amp) then times 122minutes) divided by 60 minutes to = come up with run time? 20 hours

when asking Questions its related to van I own: 1987 GMC 3/4 ton G2500 vandura, V6, No AC, standard length. 3speed trans(no overdrive).

Posts: 180

Reg: 03-20-18
07-25-20 09:41 AM - Post#2799503    
    In response to grumpyvette


many of the links do not work for me and the retail site is not working either. will look at that site later date.

I disabled all adblockers and noscript did not help

One of the things about DB electrical is no mention of whether they use dual rectifiers etc If they are bumping the amps but only using 6 rectifiers then your going to burn out under continuous use. OR it is going to continually frequently turn off when you need the charging ON.

or it will drop the voltage while keeping amps high that is a problem for charging profile. that can make difference between hours vs days. If I understood someone else explaining the problem .

when asking Questions its related to van I own: 1987 GMC 3/4 ton G2500 vandura, V6, No AC, standard length. 3speed trans(no overdrive).

Edited by VanLife on 07-25-20 09:44 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

Posts: 180

Reg: 03-20-18
07-25-20 09:48 AM - Post#2799504    
    In response to gchemist

@gchemist 14.5 max. That is the default voltage on the alts including the one that is OEM spec that is currently in van when in active charging mode. I am assuming it is that based on the expected voltage drop due to resistance etc prior to getting to battery.

so at battery its reading 14.0 or 14.3 while charging. dropping down to 12 something when it kicks out and battery is charged.

when asking Questions its related to van I own: 1987 GMC 3/4 ton G2500 vandura, V6, No AC, standard length. 3speed trans(no overdrive).

Super Senior Member
Posts: 5661

Loc: paradise
Reg: 09-05-03
07-26-20 08:28 PM - Post#2799632    
    In response to VanLife

i dont know the specs on insulation but the vehicles i see use styrofoam blocks in the panels and spray foam underneath for insulation. im thinking to use the packing spray foam in the walls that have been paneled. if your pulling current 24/7 thats alot. you might need solar help. boat and rv stuff is what you might need. do you also have an auxiliary heater like those found in busses that run off engine coolant heat?

70 L camino, grampa engine, g-force 5 spd, road rage suspension. Pray first before all else fails.

Posts: 180

Reg: 03-20-18
07-29-20 03:38 PM - Post#2799866    
    In response to bobb

I don't think the heater will run continuously. I do not have it installed. I am just using the 2.5 amp draw as a MAX current pull from battery. in order to know what house battery size I need to go with. which is 200ah.

I don't have the financial means for spray in insulation. And there are no companies around here that does it, that I know of.

The fans on the other hand are running at all times climate and breathing for both me and my cat.

I found a continuous use alternator made by zena (welding alternator rigged to be alternator)I am in the process of trying to get information from them it is a welder alternator. That can be used as an alternator or an add-in for charging house batteries.

What information I am trying to get is can a 200 amp handle the house batteries and van load. and still be small enough to get under the hood.

It turns out that most of the alts you see on market are NOT continuous use, even though they are high amp.

looking at the 200amp I think it may be too big for my van :/ will wait to hear from them.

definitely need to change the pulley.

This is to give you guys a better IDEA of what I need. but will work in my van. The standard high amp alts will not cut it. they peak for 10 minutes at most I need it to stay as high as possible till the batteries are charged. With a special standalone regulator will keep this from frying my system. Will have to figure out how to bypass the OBD1 Computer. but if I can fit it in with the stock alt then I can use the continuous use alt separate, to charge the house batteries as a separate charging system.

I am constrained by the firewall. and money.... :/

If I put a beast like this in I may have to run a fan and duct to blow fresh air directly on the alt. It gets HOT, the higher the amps.

when asking Questions its related to van I own: 1987 GMC 3/4 ton G2500 vandura, V6, No AC, standard length. 3speed trans(no overdrive).

Edited by VanLife on 07-29-20 03:44 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

Posts: 180

Reg: 03-20-18
07-29-20 04:28 PM - Post#2799872    
    In response to VanLife

here is a possible contender. If continuous alt is not possible. ut...

when asking Questions its related to van I own: 1987 GMC 3/4 ton G2500 vandura, V6, No AC, standard length. 3speed trans(no overdrive).

Posts: 1252

Loc: Mission,BC
Reg: 02-03-05
07-29-20 07:36 PM - Post#2799889    
    In response to VanLife

I have always had dual battery's in my trucks with stock alternators (85amp and 105amp) and never had issues even with winch that will draw 300amps,lights,stereos etc

get the biggest stock alt that will fit or upgrade to a different series like a cs144 or see if a ad244 will fit
and look at adding a 2nd one where the ac comp would go
look at cadillacs,fullsize trucks,corvettes for one

put the money saved towards insulation and a heater

run a stock 650-750 cca battery for starting and 2x6v golf cart battery or a deep cycle for the fans/heater

do not mess around with a $250 isolator,get a $25 200 amp continuous duty solenoid,I have had this setup for 15+ years in my silverado without issues

the solenoid get triggered by the ign switch in ign and start,this is how the factory dual battery trucks do it to,no fancy voltage detecting

why wouldn't 2/0 wire work? thats what I have had for 15+ years,the only issue is the + is black welding cable so I had to wrap it with red tape

if your dropping to 12v when running you have a issue,gm didnt turn the alternator on and off until the mid 2000's

as for bumping the idle up,definitely do this,800-1000 will be good
these are popular with the offroaders

shop around there are good chinese diesel heaters and bad ones,tons of reviews on youtube
I would get one with basic temp controls vs digital color displays
find a semi wrecker and get a used espar or webasto but make sure you grab everything esp the fuel pump (flow rate is matched to the size of the heater)
a used RV convection furnace,propane,dry heat and no power needed
just need a hole in the side of the van

69 Canadian Pontiac 2+2 Convertible
Factory L48 350 Chev,TH350,PW,PT
99 Silverado RCLB 4.8 NV4500 14BSF 4.10's locker 6" Procomp 35'S
07 Town Car Loaded,Tinted,Getting Bagged

Edited by 2plus2 on 07-29-20 07:38 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

Posts: 180

Reg: 03-20-18
07-30-20 12:58 PM - Post#2799932    
    In response to 2plus2

Quote the solenoid get triggered by the ign switch in ign and start,this is how the factory dual battery trucks do it to,no fancy voltage detecting

That was the first thing I looked at when looking to add a house battery to van that far exceeded the starter battery.

The problem with this is if the house bank batteries of 200ah is depleted to 50% or more. When you go and do the ign switch it will instantly pull the charge off the starter battery. Leaving your starter battery with too little charge to start the engine or puts too much strain on the starter battery trying to both charge the house battery and start the engine at the same time. This is why you need an isolator in a house battery configuration in a dual battery system. IN my case I will have 3 batteries.
1 starter, 2 house.
I believe in you application your not dealing with a full starter battery and a huge house battery?.

The dual truck battery system is used differently than dual battery system where there is a huge house battery as the second battery that is in a depleted state. The truck dual battery system is not meant to run accessories most or all the time with the vehicle NOT running.

I am using almost all my power in a NON running state. completely different charging and power requirements.

The charging power requirements I need are more in tune with modern marine applications. but marine alternators have diverged from auto alternators in the last decade or so and are no longer interchangeable.

I had already done the suggestions you made minus the 6voly battery. and no second alt. Putting in a second alt would be even more expensive than replace the the biggest stock alt I could get which was only 105 amps

I do not have the means to charge "deep cycle" That is why I set on using dual purpose because the charging profile will allow charging from alternator quickly.

I am also not parked for weeks on end so the house batteries is going to get a charge regularly and not wait till they are 80% depleted before even thinking of charging them.

North star who makes my battery said using a 50 amp battery to battery charger, it would take something like 6-8 or more continuous hours to charge my 68ah AGM. Up the amps shortens the time to fully charge. You can't do that with 2- 6volt deep cycle.

I do not like the Chinese knockoff heaters they are POORLY designed and constructed in its control unit with exposed circuits wiring etc. I had watched the youtube vids reviews prior. They are more expensive in long run due to premature failure. Also they do not class them correctly saying its a gas heater when it is in fact a diesel heater. But you do not know that till you experiment with fuel. I do NOT want to experiment.

there are no rig wreckers around here. And their heaters new are in the thousands.

I can get a new Appallo v-2 for $599-$699 their portable one with built in tank is $965 both vented through the floor.

I am not using my rig the same way you are. I am using almost all my power when the van is off. NOT in a constant running state. Your advice is great if I had "constant charging", "solar" "regular Landline". Because i have NO other means of charging batteries. I need a setup that can charge entirely off alternator. So the only way to do that is with some kind of continuous duty alternator.

putting in second alt is going to be really expensive I would have to do the entire layout on the front end differently in order to put it where the AC compressor would go. My setup is configured WITHOUT the ac So everything is routed differently. meaning its expensive to move everything I believe the wire harness is also shorter for a non-AC system. It took a shortcut straight off the engine block up to the hood and across to the fuse box. SO the harness is sitting where the compressor normally would go. so I believe I am about 4-8inches short in the harness to make room for a second alt. Harness would have to be routed farther to the passenger side in order to make space. Air intake is in the way so moving it directly up is not viable.

The belt diagram on the air intake only allows for steering pump and air compressor. add or removal.

Where the harness is placed along the hood it has to stay due to 2 relays mounted on the firewall left of center right under the hood. I was trying to find a way to relocate the harness before. Decided not worth risking it on a 30+ year old harness.

AC setup also has a completely different tension-er. The one in the unit the pulley is sitting right where the AC would be, this one is pushing outwards. But if you add an alt there I believe you need one that pushes in on the belt instead. in order to provide enough friction on the alt to turn it. I also have an air compressor in mine down lower. That feeds air to engine and air intake. the only space available is where the tension-er is sitting currently. I can see one of the mount holes for the compressor bracket or ac compressor that is NOT being used.

I only get one chance at this.

I was looking at one of the Cs144 as possible alternative but still not continuous duty . I will eventually fry it charging house batteries. If I was a monthly tripper or yearly and not daily user I believe your setup would be sufficient

300 amp winch is not classified as continuous draw. so the charging off a 160 amp or 100 amp alt is fine. In a way what I am doing is using everything all the time if the van was running it would burn your rig out. your not running everything at once all the time when the vehicle is running. That is what charging depleted house batteries is equivalent to running everything all the time and some. power demand is completely different.

I am currently trying to get info from company for this one ut...

I need to up the base idle on my van anyway to compensate for the minor head-gasket leak. all need to do is drill the plug out and adjust the idle ever so slightly.

The pulley on mine is an 8inch. So I have away to increase the RPM on the alt by changing the pulley on the alt. I currently have 2 1/2 inch pulley on the alt. that is over a 3-1 ratio as is. so I do not need to get my RPM up too much I believe.

Still trying to find the conversion for ignition coil spark RPM to crankshaft pulley RPM in order to know what my RPM of the alt is.

The factory idle for my van is in the high 500 low 600 800-1000 may be too much for my van to handle also at that RPM my van is really trying to go when the foot is on the brake. As in front end is lifting.

in your application could you be dealing with 6inch pulley? that might explain the 800-1000rpm range you suggested.

I don't dare add in a manual idle adjuster like you linked I do not have a gauge to measure RPM on continuous basis so that is extra expense for a manual idle adjuster like your link. . cheaper to drill the plug on TBI and adjust it up a little and adjust the pulley size.

when asking Questions its related to van I own: 1987 GMC 3/4 ton G2500 vandura, V6, No AC, standard length. 3speed trans(no overdrive).

Edited by VanLife on 07-30-20 01:43 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

Posts: 180

Reg: 03-20-18
07-31-20 08:09 PM - Post#2800044    
    In response to VanLife

anyone know the alternator "style" in the 1987 GMC g2500 vandura 4.3l V6?

Like cs144,cs130,AD244?

Knowing the style would be helpful when google searching alternatives and upgrades.

Also is this the right word Lester number?? If it is where do I find it?

I kind of like the cs144 but not sure how it stays cool without vents. Also I think I read that the front case end can be changed to fit various vehicles. and possible multiple rectifiers up to 3 I think can be added.

Really sucks living in a conservative city. No customizers. Other than plug and play upgrade kits and accessories.

So the second alt is out unless I could find a pre-made kit.

I raided the junk yard today managed to nab me a ladder rack for $75 can now do 1/2 the roof I been planing to do for a while. I would like to get to point I can leave the van in full sun without it overheating with minimal fans.

I am just trying to figure out what is the best roofing material to use. Like the corrugated roofing metal where the ribs run side to side and in 3 sections since the ladder rack is a 3 sided arch. will need to run front to back runner rails to support the roofing. and add a slanted front wind guard to keep it from causing upward air turbulence under the roof ripping it off in process.

Not sure what to use for the rails that is light enough but strong and won't corrode. it already has round front to back pipe support along the outside edge. portable permanent awning for the van

when asking Questions its related to van I own: 1987 GMC 3/4 ton G2500 vandura, V6, No AC, standard length. 3speed trans(no overdrive).

Edited by VanLife on 07-31-20 08:12 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

Super Senior Member
Posts: 3824

Loc: Bedford, Texas, USA
Reg: 11-13-02
08-01-20 07:55 PM - Post#2800110    
    In response to VanLife

If you are not using the a/c. Raid the junkyard for a 96-99 Vortec accessory setup. Can come from a 4.3 or a 350 in a truck, S10, full size van or even astro/safari van. An AD244 alternator is a direct bolt on. I have a 200amp AD244 and have no problem at all charging 4 batteries (starting and 3 deep cycles. One 12v on the frame under the van and 2 x 6 volt golf cart batteries on the nose of my travel trailer) while running dual 16" electric engine fans. It outputs over 120 amps hot at idle. You really don't want to charge a battery at more than 15-20 amps anyway. The vortec accessories need to be spaced away from the block 1/4" with washers for belt alignment but the brackets bolt right on. Even a stock AD244 from an 01-02 5.3 Tahoe is around 100 amps at idle. March makes an overdriven alternator pulley for them as well. Assuming you have a serpentine belt setup you can keep your stock crank pulley and water pump. To make it cheaper to purchase you can ditch the compressor and bolt an idler pulley onto the compressor bracket as the compressor bracket has provisions for the idler machined into the front of it.

1983 G20 Van, 350 TPI, Ported 906 Vortecs, Edelbrock 3817 Base, ASM oversize runners. Reed Custom Roller cam, 700r4, 12 bolt with 3.08 gears, Doug Thorley Tri-Y headers, true duals

Edited by 1983G20Van on 08-01-20 08:04 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

Posts: 180

Reg: 03-20-18
08-04-20 10:41 PM - Post#2800347    
    In response to 1983G20Van

Northstar X2 power is suppose to charge 5 times faster if the advertising is accurate. Its not built like other deep cycle its a dual purpose. Northstar also did not warn me from putting more than 50 amps on a 200 ah setup. Said: because they use solid post from terminals all the way through the core. No wires attaching the terminals to t he core like other AGMs you can dump more amps into the setup and charge it in shorter amount of time.

unfortunately most salvage centers around here destroy their inventory after so much time. So pickings are kind of slim to none. several destroy the inventory within weeks of taking the engine and trans out.

The only engine parts I have seen are on destroyed vehicles. when they are brought in the first thing they do is remove the engine if it runs at all.

The Dc power 180amp is a cs130 family "130 amps at 2250 rpm They claim this is the industry standard RPM for idle

12 40amp rectifiers 6needle stators? with triple thermal protection.

would need to increase the rpm on engine to run at noless than 650 rpm and use a smaller pulley of 2.25in for a 3.55-1 ratio

if your talking about the air compressor I do not believe it can be removed. It feeds air to TBI intake and engine block on top for both sides.

when asking Questions its related to van I own: 1987 GMC 3/4 ton G2500 vandura, V6, No AC, standard length. 3speed trans(no overdrive).

Edited by VanLife on 08-04-20 10:46 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

Posts: 180

Reg: 03-20-18
08-11-20 11:02 AM - Post#2800850    
    In response to 2plus2

@ 2plus2

Have you used that hand throttle? in your link?

My main concern with it is it is a "throttle" so it is going to be adjusted when I try to use my gas peddle not keeping the same setting I manually set to the throttle. in the link it does not explain exactly how it works.

I believe this is the case based on how it is described in the link you provided. that it is not meant as a cruise control substitute.

What ever I use has to allow free movement of the throttle plate on the TBI for regular driving and gas peddle

what I need is some kind of mount that has a plate that sits behind the movable throttle plate.
Where a manual adjuster with a flat foot goes through that will push on the back side of the throttle plate. that can allow very small adjustments manually on the fly. This would allow the free movement of the throttle because the device is only keeping the throttle from going all the way back to its rest stop against the idle screw.

Sites that sell this who have fitment settings claim it will not work with my van.

The factory site says it to be used with only 4 jeep types. as long as the engines for these jeeps used a cable throttle.

when asking Questions its related to van I own: 1987 GMC 3/4 ton G2500 vandura, V6, No AC, standard length. 3speed trans(no overdrive).

Posts: 180

Reg: 03-20-18
08-11-20 12:21 PM - Post#2800860    
    In response to VanLife ut...

If I can ever get my idle up. I think This is the alternator I believe I will be going with .

It is designed a little different where it has 2 internal fans instead of the external one .If I understood, it has a better cooling capacity than standard OEM.

12 40 amp diode rectifiers.

Triple thermo protection system.

180 amp total with 130 amps at 2250 alternator idle RPM.

engine crank pulley is 8 inches with a 2.25 alt pulley for 3.56 to 1 ratio So I need to get my engine baseline rpm up to 650 for a 2311 alternator RPM. which is I think about 80ish RPM over factory for my van. Think it is suppose to be 585 rpm in repair manual.

about 160-168 amp output when hot.

It fits factory with no changes. belt is in same position too. But might need to replace belt if the smaller pulley is smaller than mine.

It turned out the speck sheet online is old and the set point voltage is either 14.5 - 14.8 This drops when battery is charged. So no overcharge worries on long trips. it will only provide what the system requests of it.

when asking Questions its related to van I own: 1987 GMC 3/4 ton G2500 vandura, V6, No AC, standard length. 3speed trans(no overdrive).

Edited by VanLife on 08-11-20 12:31 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

Posts: 180

Reg: 03-20-18
08-11-20 12:49 PM - Post#2800862    
    In response to VanLife

So the next question is how many amps for the circuit breakers connecting alternator to To the Battery electrical system for a 180 amp alternator???? will be using 200 amp isolator and 0awg cables.

Because I am using High amp alt I am changing the route the power flows. instead of the alternator going to the firewall terminal and then to the battery that used a small gauge wire. The alt is going directly to battery with 0awg then have a second wire with a smaller fuse going to the vans terminal on the firewall. This way the van is isolated from the high amp through a lower amp fuse to prevent frying computer etc. while allowing the batteries to take and dump as much of the amps it needs too.

So is the fuse amps suppose to be just below the rating of the wire amperage limits or is it suppose to be just bellow the alternator amperage output?

the part that has eluded me is knowing what size fuse to use when building your own accessory electrical system. I know you want it below the accessory breaking point. But also so the fuse blows if the "+" wire is ever compromised and grounds out.

I am leaning towards the wire

I do not understand why the battery to the firewall terminal would not have a fuse or fuse link in it. it in the event that wire developed a short when its insulation was compromised.

Anyone know why this is?

when asking Questions its related to van I own: 1987 GMC 3/4 ton G2500 vandura, V6, No AC, standard length. 3speed trans(no overdrive).

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