Gain extra benefits by becoming a Supporting Member Click here find out how!

Classic Performance Products Classic Industries
American Auto Wire
Danchuk Catalog
Hellwig Products IncPerformance Rod & CustomNu-Relics Power Windows



Username Post: Remove big block pan in place? - Ackerman fix problem        (Topic#361523)
Crusty66 
"8th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 399
Crusty66
Age: 60
Loc: Albany, eNZed
Reg: 11-04-12
06-25-20 02:06 PM - Post#2797180    

So guys - I am in the middle of assembling the 67 steering parts and find that the Moroso pan I have fouls the '67 drag link on turns. I need to remove the pan and cut the corners off the wings.

Has anyone removed a pan without lifting the engine out?

Steve
1966 Caprice 396 496 496mkII TH400


 


grumpyvette 
Senior Chevytalk Moderator -- Performance Subject Matter Expert --
Posts: 17509
grumpyvette
Age: 72
Loc: FLORIDA USA
Reg: 03-16-01
06-25-20 02:19 PM - Post#2797183    
    In response to Crusty66

be aware that the crank front rods counterweights position may allow you to slide the oil pan back out,
from under the engine and out,
over the front cross member and allow clearance required,
only if the front crank counterweight is in the 12 o'clock location
and yes removing the motor mount bolts and jacking the engine up a few inches certainly tends to help
, but if you do, remove the distributor before you start,
more than a few guys ignored that bit of advice and the result gets darn expensive

IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!


Edited by grumpyvette on 06-25-20 02:21 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
jktucker92 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 387
jktucker92
Loc: West Richland, WA
Reg: 02-05-17
06-26-20 10:41 AM - Post#2797241    
    In response to grumpyvette

I pulled a pan off a 327 with the engine still in the car. I did lift the engine up a little to do so, but it wasn't too bad. I have no idea what position my crank was in when I did it, so it's possible that I would have had an easier time if I had know that tidbit back in '88 when I was doing it. The biggest issue I had was keeping the gasket in place when I was putting it back together. These days, there's a one-piece silicone gasket kit that would make that much easier, and probably seal better too.
Grumpyvette is right that you have to be careful about the distributor. With the original small cap distributor, if you're careful, you can simply remove the cap, but definitely keep an eye on it.



 
Crusty66 
"8th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 399
Crusty66
Age: 60
Loc: Albany, eNZed
Reg: 11-04-12
06-26-20 01:47 PM - Post#2797247    
    In response to grumpyvette

thanks Grumpy.

I need to remove the intake anyway as I have an annoying oil leak from the back, so will pull the distributor.

Steve
1966 Caprice 396 496 496mkII TH400


 
1965C-10 
Very Senior Member
Posts: 7419
1965C-10
Age: 42
Loc: San Tan Valley AZ "Phoeni...
Reg: 11-18-01
06-26-20 10:23 PM - Post#2797279    
    In response to Crusty66

In 1998 I put in a high volume oil pump in a 1981 Camaro Z28.

It was not easy.

The bad thing was I never got the car running again, had it towed to new home and continued to try to get it to start, burned out starter motor, using a battery charger on boost to help.

Got another starter, wires started smoking and smelled battery acid.

Let car sit trying to figure it out, life goes on, one day I found yellow jacket nest, got that out (was risky) then discovered mice ate the seats, carpet and wiring to make nests.

I ended up selling it to pick n pull in Fairfield CA in 2004, they would not tell me price, I was thinking 300 bucks, it was a $16.00 check they mailed me.

Years later I had the answer, I had the distributor in it 180 degrees out, or maybe some other degree. What's weird it just popped in my mind one day, just a random thought.

I remember it was very hard to crank like it was fighting, and that's what killed my starter motor.

I had the distributor marked before moving, but as Grumpy said I had to spin engine to get crank counterweights out of way.

Was 20 years old and very disappointed I could not get it running.

I didn't have a engine hoist.

Might be easier to just pull engine.

Edit, if there were forums then maybe I could have figured out the distributor being way out if time.






Edited by 1965C-10 on 06-26-20 10:29 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
brickwhite 
Contributor
Posts: 127
brickwhite
Loc: Missouri
Reg: 09-05-19
06-29-20 08:27 AM - Post#2797439    
    In response to 1965C-10


To remove the Pan I used a cherry picker to lift the engine a couple inches. Disconnect the radiator hoses and couple wires not too bad. I pulled the trans also.

In 1998 I was about the same age used to use the
http://forum.roadfly.com forum back then. It was pretty good. But internet was pretty slow, ol dial up.

Ted


Edited by brickwhite on 06-29-20 08:34 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
66cayne 
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2888
66cayne
Reg: 08-06-08
06-30-20 06:51 AM - Post#2797515    
    In response to brickwhite

Also, if you do jack up the engine a few inches be sure to loosen the fan shroud and let it hang on the fan or you will bend your fan as the engine is raised. I know this from my own experience!



 
emil 
"5th Year Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 110
emil
Age: 77
Loc: Belle Mead, N.J.
Reg: 07-02-12
07-03-20 06:29 PM - Post#2797831    
    In response to grumpyvette

In addition to the distributor removal, you should also make sure your fan assembly clears your radiator/shroud. Best to pull radiator before lifting the engine.

emil
69 Kingswood 4-sp
69 Impala SS 4-sp
66 Biscayne 511 BB Legends 5-sp
69 Biscayne 468 BB 4-sp
71 BelAir 250 250-6 3-sp
95 Caprice Classic wagon
2000 2500HD Chev 5-sp
2016 Ram Rebel
4 Harleys


 
Rick Dorion 
"6th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 279
Rick Dorion
Loc: Accord, NY
Reg: 09-21-12
07-04-20 05:21 AM - Post#2797849    
    In response to emil

I know on a sbc, if you turn the engine over so the TDC line is at 5 o'clock, the front counterweights are up in the block. I've changed a few pans with the engine in the car easily. Put a 2x4 piece of wood under the engine mount once all the other steps were done as outlined above.

1967 Belair - perfect floor, frame and pinchwelds. Oh boy.


 


Icon Legend Permissions Topic Options
Report Post

Quote Post

Quick Reply

Print Topic

Email Topic

308 Views
FusionBB
FusionBB™ Version 2.1
©2003-2006 InteractivePHP, Inc.
Execution time: 0.151 seconds.   Total Queries: 15   Zlib Compression is on.
All times are (GMT -0800) Pacific. Current time is 08:03 PM
Top