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Username Post: 63 Fuse Box labels//aux connections        (Topic#360377)
Highlander1 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1740
Highlander1
Loc: SE North Carolina
Reg: 08-19-04
04-02-20 07:42 PM - Post#2790171    


On the left hand side of the fuse box/panel there are four vertical recessed blade type (male connectors) labeled (from top): IGN, Fused, Batt and Lamps. A basic definition for each and examples would be appreciated. My car, a Bel Air, does not use any of them but I was wondering if accessories such as under dash courtesy lamps, for example, could plugged in here.

Thanks,

Don




 


turbo38s10 
"9th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1783
turbo38s10
Loc: Agawam,MA
Reg: 09-17-09
04-03-20 05:42 AM - Post#2790192    
    In response to Highlander1

Ign= 12v triggered when ignition switch is turned on

Fused= 12v constant fused circuit (not sure what amp)

Batt= 12v battery constant voltage

Lamps= I believe is triggered by the light switch being turned on.



 
kingkreeton 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1405
kingkreeton
Loc: Houston TX
Reg: 04-15-11
04-03-20 06:17 AM - Post#2790199    
    In response to Highlander1

You can definitely use them for additional power sources for auxiliary items you would like to install. If you need more than what is provided at the fuse box, there are other safe ways to get power to your aux equipment without having your under dash look like a birds nest. You just need to determine what power source you want for your item, ie. constant 12v vs ignition 12v.

Send me a PM and I can elaborate if you need additional information.

Shane
64 Impala SS:
Chevy Performance 350HO
4 Speed Muncie

Proud member of Big Blue Nation, University of Kentucky Basketball. "Go Big Blue"


Edited by kingkreeton on 04-03-20 06:19 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Highlander1 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1740
Highlander1
Loc: SE North Carolina
Reg: 08-19-04
04-05-20 04:11 PM - Post#2790399    
    In response to kingkreeton

Eric & Shane, thanks for your responses. A lot of help.Since Eric commented on each of the four terminals I'm gonna use that to pose (in bold) a few clarifications or questions and then I may need to take Shane up on his offer.

Ign= 12v triggered when ignition switch is turned on Can I tap here for 12v for HEI dist upgrade? What about tach power? No fuse?

Fused= 12v constant fused circuit (not sure what amp) Can I get power here with ignition switch in off /locked position? Could it be 10a since that is the fuse directly across from it?

Batt= 12v battery constant voltage
Power comes off the horn relay so unswitched. Should use appropriate inline fuse?

Lamps= I believe is triggered by the light switch being turned on.Is this where I would tap for tach lamp or extra gauge lamps?



 
ragtp66 
Contributor
Posts: 892

Reg: 12-09-07
04-05-20 09:34 PM - Post#2790429    
    In response to Highlander1

You will find a ton of information out there but not much is concise. I will try to make it so.

GM never wired the HEI through a fuse box. It was thought that if you had a circuit failure and lost ignition because of it that could be potentially dangerous. So the short answer is I would not use the fusebox as your source. I would tap into the IGNITION side of the ignition switch. The next hiccup you will run into is that that circuit may or may not be HOT in the crank position. Simple test light will tell you. If it is not HOT with key in crank position all you need to do it take the wire that is on the R terminal of the starter and splice that into your HEI power feed wire that will allow the HEI to get power in both the CRANK and RUN positions. The original points system used 12v(ish) for starting then dropped down once it started. Tape your original wire that went to your points coil positive terminal as it is a resisitor wire and should not be used with HEI If someday you want to go back to original it will be there. Friendly advise buy either AC DELCO or ECHLIN for your ignition module and make sure you use the di electric grease when installing it. I would keep a spare in your glove box JUST in Case with the screwdrivers or nut drivers to swap it out. Inevitably one day you will go to start the car and just like when an electric fuel pump croaks out of nowhere so does your ignition module. If you have a spare with you ten minutes later you are up and running instead of waiting for a flatbed to come rescue you. You may NEVER need it but I would rather have it and not need it then to need it and not have it, especially since they take up almost no space. Also be sure that your hood to cowl rubber seal is in place, if it is missing and it rains or you wash the car it is easy for water to run right onto/into the HEI. If you are not concerned with originality and since you are putting in a HEI I assume you are not. I would consider adding a relay kit to your headlights moving them off the main harness and upgrading the alternator to a 3 wire 10si or 12si internal regulated alternator these are both Saturday projects and worthwhile. Some good reference can be found here http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/onewir ...



Toys:
1958 Impala 2dr Hardtop Under Construction
1966 Chevelle Malibu Convert M20/350 Aztec Bronze
1987 Sea Ray Pachanga 22
2002 Cadillac Escalade EXT Parts chaser
2007 Trailblazer SS -gone and missed


 
Highlander1 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1740
Highlander1
Loc: SE North Carolina
Reg: 08-19-04
04-14-20 02:17 AM - Post#2791113    
    In response to ragtp66

Ragtp,

Thanks for your response and I apologize for the delay.  I wanted to get under the dash with my wiring diagrams and try to sort this out.  Some days my back and hips don't think much of it.

The reason I ask about goring directly to the male IGN connector on the fuse panel is that I am hesitant about cutting the insulation (sometime I get a strand or three...) in order to splice into the 18 pink wire coming off the IGN terminal.  In using Figs 73-75 in the 63 SM Supl I can trace the 18 pink wire from the Ign switch IGN terminal thru the fuse box to the firewall connector for the 20 neutral / orange & violet resistor wire to the Coil+ terminal (and then on to the starter R terminal - as you noted - via 20 pink). 

I wonder if just because its called a fuse block do all connections have to be fused? Rather, is it just logical/ convenient to have all aux power terminals in one place?  From all I can tell its the same as what you get at the IGN terminal on the ignition switch. Incidentally there is also a 18 yellow that comes off the fused side and goes thru the same firewall connector to the wiper motor and is fused - although I don't see that the IGN terminal uses this fuse.  As a precaution if I decide to go with FB IGN terminal I can always hook up a test light and then pull the fuse to see what happens.

Your advice on the spare module is excellent. Probably makes more sense than a spare tire and jack and - as you noted - doesn't take up nearly as much space  (besides, AAA can deal with a flat tire - not so much the module).  Also, I also concur with the headlight relays - already have them.  I don't care for the yellow sheathing (although likely in the minority) on the ones I ordered (Classic Industries) but the price was right - so I will wrap the harness with the correct black tape that I got for the engine harness.  Although right now I am mostly interested in getting this thing running so I can move it more easily I think that there could be a time to think about relays for the wiper and heater blower motors and maybe the brake lights (esp if I add a third) and horns (I remember when my mother had a 55 wagon that the headlights dimmed for about everything mentioned).  

Regards,

Don

PS Tried to upload an iPhone photo of the wires going into the backside of the fuse box but it told me that my 2.19 MB image was too large for the 233.14 KB max attachment. That was unfortunate as I went to a lot of trouble to take it...



 
kingkreeton 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1405
kingkreeton
Loc: Houston TX
Reg: 04-15-11
04-14-20 07:18 AM - Post#2791122    
    In response to Highlander1

You should consider using a relay for your starter. Its a much longer run of wire that contributes to voltage drop when the engine is warm.

Also, as mentioned above, upgrading to a higher amp 3 wire 10si or 12si internal regulated alternator will eliminate your dimming headlight issue.

I'm also big fan of Mad Electrical and spent a couple hours on the phone with Mark designing an electrical system that met the needs for the additional components I installed.

Shane
64 Impala SS:
Chevy Performance 350HO
4 Speed Muncie

Proud member of Big Blue Nation, University of Kentucky Basketball. "Go Big Blue"


 


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