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Username Post: 12v to 6v on fuel sending unit        (Topic#360164)
jbouchard 
Contributor
Posts: 321

Reg: 08-07-12
03-15-20 06:00 AM - Post#2788672    

Hello,
A few years ago I put a 235 in my 41 and in the process converted it to a 12 v system. I also put in a new fuel tank, but didn't put in the sending unit until recently.
Question: My instrument gauges are still set up as 6v. Is there a cheaper way to reduce the 12v sending unit to the instrument panel 6v, such as purchasing a 12v to 6v converter found on Amazon by Drok, or a 6v Zener diode? I read in other places this has been done, but does anyone have any experience? It looks like the main issue is the amp pull from the sending unit, which should be low.
At this point I only need to convert the fuel gauge.
Thanks,
Judson



 


jbouchard 
Contributor
Posts: 321

Reg: 08-07-12
03-15-20 06:14 AM - Post#2788674    
    In response to jbouchard

So, to answer my own post, I guess I will have to run power initially to the instrument panel and it is before it reaches the cluster at which I will have to reduce the power. (Note: I have not previously run power to the cluster)

Is the only way to do this in purchasing a 12v to 6v reducer that can handle the power drawn from the cluster? How much amperage is drawn by the sending unit and oil gauge (not mechanical, and no turn signals.)?

Second question, once the instrument panel is reduced to 6v, will the newer sending unit work properly with the 6v's being sent to it?

Thanks again,
Judson



 
Ray P W 
Contributor
Posts: 511

Reg: 09-30-15
03-15-20 10:12 AM - Post#2788693    
    In response to jbouchard

"My instrument gauges are still set up as 6v. Is there a cheaper way to reduce the 12v sending unit to the instrument panel 6v, such as purchasing a 12v to 6v converter found on Amazon by Drok, or a 6v Zener diode?"

Judson,

In my experience the original 6 volt gauges and sender will work accurately with either 6 or 12 volt power. When I got my now-restored '36 Chevy pickup in 1965 I made it into a sbc powered "rat rod" with 12 volt electrics and ran it that way as a daily driver for about 5 years and 50,000 trouble free miles. The instruments required only replacement of the 6 volt bulbs with 12 volt bulbs.

Then I restored it to all original and again only the bulbs needed changing. The instruments in that '36 are the same ones that were in it in 1965 and they all still work perfectly.

Based on that I think those voltage reducers are a solution looking for a problem.

It's the same as my wife's kitchen stove. When we moved to a rural area where natural gas is unavailable and propane is the available fuel I saw kits to convert stoves from one fuel to another. An honest stove restorer told me the kits are unnecessary and told me to simply turn the adjusting screw on each valve to adjust the mixture to a neutral (blue) flame, just like and oxy-acetylene welding torch.

Ray W





 
jbouchard 
Contributor
Posts: 321

Reg: 08-07-12
03-15-20 05:00 PM - Post#2788712    
    In response to Ray P W

Cool. I appreciate the advice Ray. Judson



 
McCargar 
Poster
Posts: 58
McCargar
Reg: 12-07-11
03-17-20 08:29 AM - Post#2788840    
    In response to jbouchard

The fuel sending unit measures resistance not voltage so it doesn't matter 6v or 12v.
If there is a need or desire to reduce the voltage to 6v put a 1 1/2 ohm resistor in line, like the one some vehicles use to reduce the voltage to the coil when running.



 
jbouchard 
Contributor
Posts: 321

Reg: 08-07-12
03-17-20 09:28 AM - Post#2788845    
    In response to McCargar

thank you!



 
38TownSd 
Newbie
Posts: 29

Age: 71
Loc: Bracebridge Ontario Canad...
Reg: 04-04-13
05-05-20 01:02 PM - Post#2792863    
    In response to jbouchard

I reduced the voltage on my 51 when I changed to 12 volts. The original sender was 30 ohms and I put a 30 ohm, 2 watt resister in series with the supply to the fuel gauge. My gauge works correctly.



 


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