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Username Post: My official jag thread        (Topic#360014)
drew1987 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3588
drew1987
Age: 32
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
04-19-20 04:20 PM - Post#2791548    
    In response to drew1987

Plates are finished and in. Ready to be tacked to the jag

Attachment: F59F2ACF-C955-4BC1-BA87-3CC750FD5E5A.jpeg (2.5 MB) 3 View(s)




Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


 


rickityfifty 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 127
rickityfifty
Loc: south australia
Reg: 10-08-14
04-21-20 12:54 AM - Post#2791658    
    In response to drew1987

Drew,
I've checked with guy with the XJ6. The Jag had some alignment problems that were all fixed at the same time as the spring swap so he's not sure what all the improvements were from. It now is about 2" lower and handles much more predictably. The ride is very smooth like you are looking for, but as I said before, in the Jag the front end is isolated from the chassis by those big rubber mounts so my and your ride is not going to be as good as that.
Every answer brings more questions.
Rick

1952 Chevy Business Coupe
1967 Chevy C10 Panel Truck SOLD
2005 Holden Rodeo Pickup (Isuzu)
1923 Tbucket SOLD


 
drew1987 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3588
drew1987
Age: 32
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
04-21-20 05:24 AM - Post#2791669    
    In response to rickityfifty

Thanks rick. Last night I went to do the tacking and realized the plates want to rest on those diamond shape motor mount brackets and not against the crossmember itself. I believe I can correct this by changing the angle that the car is jacked up at (higher in the rear)

When I was under there I was looking at those front bushings and the location where the rear ones would be if I had them. There is some interface; the nubs on the frame that push into the stock Chevy sway bar up front, the Chevy frame it self in the rear. The rear would likely need the mount welded to a plate and the plate bolted to the Chevy as one of the two bolt holes is right under the frame

I’d be curious to see how others did it. Also steering - if the jag double knuckle was used or regular ujoints

Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


 
rickityfifty 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 127
rickityfifty
Loc: south australia
Reg: 10-08-14
04-21-20 10:46 PM - Post#2791738    
    In response to drew1987

Drew,
you would need the Jag uni-joint only if you use the soft mount. It allows the movement between the chassis and crossmember. It's a big ugly thing, if you could find a steering shaft with a decent sliding spline in it, that would probably do too.

I think on youtube there was was a guy fitted the Jag unit to an early F100. It might be useful.

Rick

1952 Chevy Business Coupe
1967 Chevy C10 Panel Truck SOLD
2005 Holden Rodeo Pickup (Isuzu)
1923 Tbucket SOLD


Edited by rickityfifty on 04-21-20 10:48 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
drew1987 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3588
drew1987
Age: 32
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
04-23-20 04:13 PM - Post#2791900    
    In response to rickityfifty

Rick,

I’ll take a look, much appreciated

In other new, I am taking a break from this project though. It’s been frustrating and that’s not what leisure vehicles are supposed to be about.

I’ll report back when I figure out what I want to do

Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


 
38Chevy454 
Newbie
Posts: 2

Loc: Cincinnati, OH
Reg: 05-12-20
05-12-20 05:57 PM - Post#2793626    
    In response to drew1987

  • drew1987 Said:


I'd be curious to see how others did it. Also steering - if the jag double knuckle was used or regular ujoints



I'm a new guy here, but have experience with the Jag IFS on my 52 GMC pickup. I used the original Jag drag link, from the rack up to a conversion U-joint where that drag link connected to a GM column. Very easy and I had the room for the straight shot between the rack and column. Steers great. Jag used that funny u-joint to allow for slight movement due to the rubber bushing mounting of the front suspension relative to the body. I just used it because it worked out, but could have also just used double-D shaft and couple U-joints. Saved a little money using the stock Jag drag link. I also used the Jag sway bar.

On mounting the Jag crossmember, I cut off the big front arms and welded the crossmember to the GMC frame. A bit easier on the truck since it has C-channel frame. Just pay attention to the crossmember angle so your caster comes out right. The only thing you need to fabricate is the upper shock mounts as you have figured. So use whatever shocks fit and make the mounts. I welded to the upper spring hats. Ultimately, you want the lower control arms to be close to level once installed and at ride height. I did the low budget way and cut my XJ6 donor car springs to get the ride height. Not totally correct but it works.

FWIW, I also used the Jag IRS in the GMC. Also the Jag brake master cyl. Truck rides and drives great.



Edited by 38Chevy454 on 05-12-20 05:59 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 


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