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 Page 1 of 3 123
Username Post: My official jag thread        (Topic#360014)
drew1987 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3591
drew1987
Age: 32
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
03-01-20 08:01 PM - Post#2787722    

Hey all. Not too much to tell, not too much to ask.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/brg-034937

That’s the best I can come up with for a 48 spline u joint that goes to 3/4 dd AND dampens. Wondering if anyone knows of better

Also wonder if I should run a DD to DD u joint worth dampner up at the column instead as it’s easier to find and I want the car to be on the road in 2100 (my oldest would be 85)

I know some don’t run a dampener but I am going for the smoothest ride possible and I think it can’t hurt

Is our steering shaft 3/4? I know it’s round but is it 3/4?

I’ll be getting on this soon. And I’ll be keeping track of time. ‘Been encouraged by guys that get stuff done. This won’t take too long. I need it on the road in 5 weeks.

Thanks

Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


Edited by drew1987 on 03-01-20 08:04 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 


Cruzin Okie 
"4th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 736
Cruzin Okie
Loc: Jay, Oklahoma
Reg: 10-26-11
03-03-20 08:17 PM - Post#2787909    
    In response to drew1987

It's kinda lonesome huh?

Johnnie

1950 styleline deluxe sports coupe, 350 cid, TH 400, nova rear end. Gen IV Vintage air. SOLD!
1953 210 4 Door, 235 with Powerglide. All original except for the 1954 hood bird.

John 3:16



 
rickityfifty 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 127
rickityfifty
Loc: south australia
Reg: 10-08-14
03-03-20 10:13 PM - Post#2787917    
    In response to Cruzin Okie

I'd step in and tell you what I did just to break the silence, but mine is now RHD and using a Holden Ute column so it's a bit irrelevant.

1952 Chevy Business Coupe
1967 Chevy C10 Panel Truck SOLD
2005 Holden Rodeo Pickup (Isuzu)
1923 Tbucket SOLD


 
drew1987 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3591
drew1987
Age: 32
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
03-04-20 06:15 AM - Post#2787921    
    In response to rickityfifty

Yes it is! At the end of the day my car will still go down the road it’s just nice to chat about what others are doing and such.

Rickity thanks man. I’ll take it. Holden fascinates me. We’ve had the commodore here under Pontiac and Chevy. Nice car

Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


 
cbmkr56 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1207
cbmkr56
Age: 64
Loc: Basehor Ks
Reg: 02-11-13
03-05-20 12:11 PM - Post#2787987    
    In response to drew1987

No damper needed, There are 34-48 1" DD on ebay for 34 bucks. Here's a pic down on mine. Mine is 3/4 DD son in laws is 1" DD. Sorry for the dirty view lost a radiator at 70 making sure everything is ok with the new one before i detail it again.

Attachment: IMG_20200305_130032122.jpg (1.3 MB) 6 View(s)






 
drew1987 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3591
drew1987
Age: 32
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
03-05-20 07:35 PM - Post#2788015    
    In response to cbmkr56

I meant to ask you. You feel zero vibration? Modern cars don’t have them. I want my wheel to feel like a new impala or Camry. Right but No road feel
Many thanks

Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


Edited by drew1987 on 03-05-20 07:35 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
cbmkr56 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1207
cbmkr56
Age: 64
Loc: Basehor Ks
Reg: 02-11-13
03-05-20 07:37 PM - Post#2788016    
    In response to drew1987

None , i have more feel in the gas pedal because it is mechanical linkage.



 
drew1987 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3591
drew1987
Age: 32
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
03-22-20 04:00 PM - Post#2789266    
    In response to cbmkr56

Thanks

What did you do on the column side?

Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


 
drew1987 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3591
drew1987
Age: 32
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
03-28-20 01:46 PM - Post#2789648    
    In response to drew1987

This awful pandemic has us stuck home so I started on the jag swap

https://youtu.be/HjwUdLeNaPU

Hope all of you are safe and healthy

Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


 
56sedandelivery 
Dedicated Member
Posts: 5775
56sedandelivery
Age: 68
Loc: Everett, Wa.
Reg: 02-26-08
03-28-20 08:38 PM - Post#2789685    
    In response to drew1987

Who's the bearded, long haired guy? Could't possibly be the same "preppy" guy in your avatar!!! Like our old cars, we all go through changes. And, it looks like you're committed to the Jag swap now. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.




 
drew1987 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3591
drew1987
Age: 32
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
03-29-20 05:17 AM - Post#2789695    
    In response to 56sedandelivery

Ha! Always wanted to grow it out. Ran out of reasons why not to. Yes committed for sure. Part of me will miss the old front end as it's so soft and floaty but the coil spring company in Wichita area said confidently they can reproduce that ride in the jag

They say they can go a little lower, too 4” down from stock would be delightful but even that is less important than a stable ride and power steering



I am absolutely going to save the 54 front end. Just not sure where



 
tommy49 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2895
tommy49
Loc: Kaleva, Michigan
Reg: 09-28-12
03-29-20 07:33 AM - Post#2789703    
    In response to drew1987

Hey, Scruffy, nice to see you back working on the car!

Tommy

49 Deluxe Sport Coupe, 4.8/4L60E swap in progress, Blazer rear axle, 4 wheel power disc brakes.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/tommyfortynine /album...




 
40grit 
Contributor
Posts: 696

Age: 74
Loc: Chattanooga, Tn
Reg: 07-08-13
03-29-20 08:29 AM - Post#2789708    
    In response to tommy49

Somebody pop me an email if Drew comes back. I have no idea who this imposter is!

Ok, No that you've started, I'm subscribed!

John

Just Slightly Abrasive


 
drew1987 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3591
drew1987
Age: 32
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
03-29-20 08:50 AM - Post#2789710    
    In response to 40grit

Lol thanks guys it was hard to get started with everything else going on in my life but 2 things moved it along:

My day job is extremely slow (and from home) and my business is shutdown due to the crisis AND I took the car out last week about 60 miles worth. Fell back in love with driving it but was reminded of its issues and why I have the jag front end sitting here.

Then there is the other issue. She fired up and ran perfectly for 40 miles. The last 20, degraded to rough running and a stumble off idle. I’m very sick of this motor. Short story is, it’s worn out and needs replacing. Considering my options... LS, the 4-bolt gen1 sitting in my garage... not sure. Either way, now that I started, got to get it done!

Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


Edited by drew1987 on 03-29-20 08:51 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Keith_Knox 
Member #189 Moderator and "18th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 6393
Keith_Knox
Age: 78
Loc: Napa, Ca USA
Reg: 04-02-00
03-29-20 11:09 AM - Post#2789722    
    In response to drew1987

Glad to see you are back at it Drew. Good luck with the conversion.

29-41, 42-48, 49-54 Moderator
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe Purchased 6/2010. Stock with rebuilt 52 216 installed May 1966.
1946 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup, stock. Purchased 11/18/17.
2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crew


 
drew1987 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3591
drew1987
Age: 32
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
03-30-20 02:59 PM - Post#2789825    
    In response to Keith_Knox

Thanks man!


Got a little work done today. Went to the steel store, elated that they were open to the public, and happened upon a 4.0625” by 12.25” piece of 1/4” plate. Grabbed that!

Next I cut it into 12” pieces and used a piece of cardboard from a 12 pack of soda water and used a center punch to make a template. Taped it upside down to one plate and center punched the wholes.


Took a break as I remembered my flag holder broke in a recent wind storm, so out of love for America I stopped and built an intentionally industrial style flag holder.


Then I drilled the holes and bolted the plate to the Chevy frame. Fits just fine!

I vice clamped the plates together and transferred the hole locations with the original drill bit, now broken and only long enough to make the holes.

Attachment: F0087B5A-A9F5-4EE7-AB27-B597EE8A6A7D.jpeg (2.7 MB) 7 View(s)




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Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


 
eplantage 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 2318

Loc: Southern MN
Reg: 03-15-04
03-31-20 05:09 AM - Post#2789873    
    In response to drew1987

Following with interest.

Age: 66 at the moment
1950 Chevrolet Sedan Delivery
1953 BelAir Convertible Project
2002 Heritage Springer FLSTSI
1930 Model A Standard Coupe


 
drew1987 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3591
drew1987
Age: 32
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
03-31-20 09:40 AM - Post#2789899    
    In response to eplantage

Thanks!

So I have been working on the plates today in between phone calls. I am dedicated to keeping the holes on the frame 100% un-filed/unmodified so its demanding precision. The rear 4 studs are welded into the passenger plate and at worst it needs to be "tapped" into its home position, The front four bolts just drop right in. Going to use the factory rectangular double nuts up there, but modify the length of the inner front set so it can be upside down (bolts on the bottom, rectangle nut on the top) as my brake lines run there and its impossible to get on the bolt head with the radiator in the car







Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


 
drew1987 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3591
drew1987
Age: 32
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
03-31-20 09:44 AM - Post#2789900    
    In response to drew1987

shocks...


started looking into them, saw 53chevy (has anyone heard from him) used Ford truck shocks, Monroe Gas-Magnum 34796. Monroe says these are for trucks, and my ONLY care with this is a very smooth ride and power steering. Not after handling/performance and dont want a harsh ride... not sure if truck shocks will be still. Gabriel posts a catalog that, unfortunately, only appears to go by make and model of car BUT has icons that indicate what the two ends of the shock are. I scrolled randomly through and found a small Suzuki SUV (I rode in one 20 years ago and it was a pleasant ride) has the rough size and style we need. cross referenced In rock auto and found Monroe 37070 or Gabriel g63799. Not sure about bolt sizes or if it even matters - not sure if a truck shock is necessarily harder, if not might as well use 53chevy's research.

I also wondered why not use a rear 1950 Chevy car shock? Its the same style as the Jag and obviously has that soft 50's feel. Its a bit longer, though.

Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


 
drew1987 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3591
drew1987
Age: 32
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
03-31-20 10:14 AM - Post#2789902    
    In response to drew1987

FYI if anyone is going to use this data, 53chevt got his part from a 2005ish Ford E150. Its a front "heavy duty" shock. Original ridge quality, so softer, is 37128



Extended Length (in.) 14.250
Upper Mounting Description
Stem Mount - 2.3/8" Stem Length X 3/8"-16 Thread Pitch

Lower Mounting Description
Loop Bushing Mount - 5/8" Bushing ID X 1.5/16"

Compressed Length (in.) 9.375
Travel Length (in.) 4.875

Parts Pack(s) P01135

Compressed Bumper Stop No
Extended Bumper Stop Yes

Extended Hydraulic Lockout No

Dust Shield Material Metal








OR Monroe 5763 for a 1964-66 Thunderbird:

Extended Length (in.) 14.750

Upper Mounting Description
Stem Mount - Stem Length X 3/8"-24 Thread Pitch

Lower Mounting Description
Loop Bushing & Sleeve Mount - 1/2" Sleeve ID X 1.3/8" Sleeve OAL

Compressed Length (in.) 9.875
Travel Length (in.) 4.875
Parts Pack(s) P00002
Cylinder Included No
Compressed Bumper Stop No
Extended Bumper Stop Yes
Extended Hydraulic Lockout No





Monroe 37015 in Ford Ranger 1991 (rwd)

Extended Length (in.)14.500

Upper Mounting Description Stem Mount - 2.3/8" Stem Length X 3/8"-16 Thread Pitch

Lower Mounting Description
Loop Bushing Mount - 5/8" Bushing ID X 1.5/16"

Compressed Length (in.) 9.750
Travel Length (in.) 4.750

Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


Edited by drew1987 on 03-31-20 10:30 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
56sedandelivery 
Dedicated Member
Posts: 5775
56sedandelivery
Age: 68
Loc: Everett, Wa.
Reg: 02-26-08
04-01-20 03:19 AM - Post#2789957    
    In response to drew1987

  • drew1987 Said:
Thanks man!


Got a little work done today. Went to the steel store, elated that they were open to the public, and happened upon a 4.0625” by 12.25” piece of 1/4” plate. Grabbed that!

Next I cut it into 12” pieces and used a piece of cardboard from a 12 pack of soda water and used a center punch to make a template. Taped it upside down to one plate and center punched the wholes.


Took a break as I remembered my flag holder broke in a recent wind storm, so out of love for America I stopped and built an intentionally industrial style flag holder.


Then I drilled the holes and bolted the plate to the Chevy frame. Fits just fine!

I vice clamped the plates together and transferred the hole locations with the original drill bit, now broken and only long enough to make the holes.



To make things easier, there are some 53-62 Corvette front suspension shims, that could be used for templates, or possibly even as the plates themselves; on E-Bay the item # is 112028770468.
I am Butch/56sedandelivery.




 
drew1987 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3591
drew1987
Age: 32
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
04-01-20 06:25 AM - Post#2789967    
    In response to 56sedandelivery

WHERE WERE THOSE 5 DAYS AGO!?! I'm done making them now. Never knew they existed! These will hopefully really help someone else


Many thanks!

Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


 
drew1987 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3591
drew1987
Age: 32
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
04-01-20 06:31 AM - Post#2789969    
    In response to drew1987

I am a bit nervous about the strength of a 3/8 bolt plug welded into a 3/8 hole IF its ground flat. I did an experiment with one and put some washers and a nut on it and was able to keep turning it with a wrench until it pulled out, if I had to guess it took no more than 120 foot pounds. Of course, if 25% of the way into the hole and welded continuously until its a decent size bump thats NOT ground off, its much stronger. Thats how my inner rear sets of studs will be, but the outer rear ones have to be ground enough for the plate to lay flay against the crossmember

Any advice on this? i've seen guys counter sink machine screws. Too late for that (it is what it is)

Thanks

Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


 
eplantage 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 2318

Loc: Southern MN
Reg: 03-15-04
04-01-20 07:17 AM - Post#2789971    
    In response to drew1987

Did you bevel the threaded studs before welding?

Age: 66 at the moment
1950 Chevrolet Sedan Delivery
1953 BelAir Convertible Project
2002 Heritage Springer FLSTSI
1930 Model A Standard Coupe


 
drew1987 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3591
drew1987
Age: 32
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
04-01-20 09:15 AM - Post#2789980    
    In response to eplantage

Yes a little

Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


 
50hotrod 
"8th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1066
50hotrod
Loc: Wisconsin
Reg: 07-25-11
04-01-20 09:30 AM - Post#2789982    
    In response to drew1987

Hi Drew,
Are you using 3/8-16 standard threaded bolts? The originals were fine thread 3/8-24 and at least grade 8. You need the fine thread to achieve the torque and holding power required for a bolt in suspension.

As eplantage mentioned in his post, you need to bevel the bolt to a point, flatten the tip, and place it just below the surface of the plate. Now weld it in. If done this way, it will snap the stud before it pulls out.

What are your plans to center the cross member for tracking and achieve the correct wheel base? When I did the Mustang II on mine, I leveled the car, and marked axle center lines on the floor using laser lines. Then I used plumb-bobs on the axle center lines and frame locations to square it out measuring criss cross front to back.



1950 CHEVY 2 DOOR 327 TRI POWER FENDERWELL HEADERS HEIDT FRONT SUSPENSION 700R4 TRANS 411 REAR



 
drew1987 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3591
drew1987
Age: 32
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
04-01-20 02:55 PM - Post#2790022    
    In response to 50hotrod

Hey thanks!

These are grade 8 regular thread, in the rear, them the factory fine thread and rectangular double nut in the front. Is that not sufficient?

Many thanks!

drew

Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


 
50hotrod 
"8th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1066
50hotrod
Loc: Wisconsin
Reg: 07-25-11
04-02-20 11:49 AM - Post#2790117    
    In response to drew1987

Well, GM used fine thread and I suspect there was a reason. My first thought is a fine thread bolts can be tighten tighter. More threads per inch. If it were mine and all that held my complete front crossmember in were bolts, I'd copy how the factory did it. Just trying to help ya.

1950 CHEVY 2 DOOR 327 TRI POWER FENDERWELL HEADERS HEIDT FRONT SUSPENSION 700R4 TRANS 411 REAR



 
drew1987 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3591
drew1987
Age: 32
Loc: Rochester, New York
Reg: 02-23-14
04-02-20 01:34 PM - Post#2790131    
    In response to 50hotrod

I appreciate, thanks for looking out. I just figured grade 8 trumped old fine thread stuff. I have thought about redoing it with fine threaded taper head bolts. It’s not in yet. Doubt my steering can clear the insanely wide exhaust manifolds I used in ‘15. Might shelf this until I have an LS engine to put in. I don’t know. This will be my first year without my car if things don’t work out

Andrew D. Carapella (Drew)

'50 Deluxe 4dr v8 auto

Member:

Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970
http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org

CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2
http://www.crossmemberscc.com


 
rrausch 
"16th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 14285
rrausch
Loc: L.A, Cal. & St. Louis...
Reg: 04-07-03
04-02-20 10:25 PM - Post#2790176    
    In response to drew1987

My go-to source for Grade 8 has fine thread Grade 8 bolts and nuts. It's a farm supply store.

1953 210 Convertible, 261 with dual Carter YF 966S carbs, P.S., Remote Bendix P.B. Booster... shade-tree restoration about done.




 


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