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Username Post: Best lift points when pulling engine?        (Topic#359947)
AmericanPie 
Senior Member
Posts: 516

Loc: Camarillo, CA
Reg: 07-28-01
02-26-20 11:12 AM - Post#2787388    

What are the best lift points when pulling the engine and tranny (327/PG) together? I have the original 461 heads (so no accessory holes). I thought of simply using a lift plate on the intake manifold however I think hookups on the both the front and rear of the engine would allow me to make better use of the load leveler I have available, which would probably make the job easier. Any suggestions?

Thanks!

1965 Impala SS 327, Crocus Yellow


Edited by AmericanPie on 02-26-20 11:14 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 


mjc1 
Senior Member
Posts: 1612
mjc1
Loc: Burlington Ontario Canada
Reg: 09-15-04
02-26-20 12:00 PM - Post#2787392    
    In response to AmericanPie

I've lifted out a SBC with a TH400 using just a single rear intake bolt and a single forward intake bolt opposite. Used longer bolts and washers with the chains and lugs provided with the cheap lifting balancer I'd bought. 4 points probably would have been better, but two worked just fine.



1967 Grande Parisienne 4DR HT
My Flickr page



 
jktucker92 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 358
jktucker92
Loc: West Richland, WA
Reg: 02-05-17
02-26-20 02:09 PM - Post#2787396    
    In response to mjc1

I've lifted the engine out a multiple times (327/PG). The first time I used a chain bolted to the front exhaust bolt on #1 and the rear exhaust bolt on #8, and then the hook in the middle, with no leveler. It was a bit to handle, but it came out just fine.
The second time I used a single lift plate bolted where the carb goes. As expected the engine / trans wouldn't balance, so it required a 2nd person to hold the back of the tranny as it came out. I was in high school at the time, and didn't worry about banging the engine around a bit. The third time, I used the same lift plate, but hooked a come-along around the back of the tranny, then hooked it to the chain from the cherry picker. That worked also and allowed me to do it by myself. Using a load leveler and hooking to the #1 and #8 exhaust holes would probably be a good way to do it.



 
wagonman100 
Super Senior Member
Posts: 14409
wagonman100
Loc: Baltimore, MD
Reg: 11-27-04
02-26-20 04:00 PM - Post#2787400    
    In response to jktucker92

I have also done it several ways and almost always by myself. The first time was with the chain bolted at the front and rear accessory holes in the dead catty corner with no leveler. The #1 and #8 exhaust bolt holes are essentially the same locations. Needed to jack up the trans to get it off of the crossmember and had to lift the tail end of the trans over the core support. After about 4 engines I bought a leveler with the chains bolted to the accessory holes in each head front and back. Again, the exhaust bolt holes are the same for all intents and purposes. I had to remove the crank handle and use a socket because the crank would hit the hoist arm. That made it much easier to lift/balance/remove and reinstall the engines. It’s easier to balance the motor if you leave the trans behind, but I have only done that once because it was a 4wd vehicle and I didn’t want to deal with the transfer case. Getting the engine and trans to line back up and get the converter seated presents its own challenges when installing the motor by itself.

Jay
Friends don’t let friends drive Fords.

1999 Silverado Z71 4X4 extra-cab short bed
1983 Malibu Fauxmad - tubbed
1978 El Camino Kustomized
1972 Monte Carlo
1957 210 handyman wagon
1957 Nomad sport wagon
1957 Cameo Carrier


 
AmericanPie 
Senior Member
Posts: 516

Loc: Camarillo, CA
Reg: 07-28-01
02-26-20 05:31 PM - Post#2787404    
    In response to wagonman100

Thanks for the help guys. I haven't pulled an engine for several decades and I'm looking for the easiest way to do it since I'm not getting any younger.

Looks like using the exhaust manifold bolt holes is a good way to go. I guess I could use the intake bolt holes, but when I re-install the engine the intake manifold will be torqued down and I don't want to remove any of the bolts once that's done.

mjc1 - I have the same load leveler (got mine at Harbor Freight) which is rated for 3/4 ton. I figured between the all-iron 327 plus the PG I'll be lifting a total of about 675 lbs. so it should be fine, but it's still good to know those Chinese-made chains held up OK.

Once you've got the engine plucked out and it's hanging, is it generally preferable to roll the car back or roll back the crane? I can probably do it either way, but I have a slight slope in front of my garage which may complicate things.

1965 Impala SS 327, Crocus Yellow


 
mjc1 
Senior Member
Posts: 1612
mjc1
Loc: Burlington Ontario Canada
Reg: 09-15-04
02-26-20 06:09 PM - Post#2787408    
    In response to AmericanPie

The exhaust manifold bolt holes would work good. Use longer chains wrapping around the front and back of the heads. Take your valve covers off to avoid crushing the flange with the chains (or protect them with heavy rags).

Take the front tires off and block the control arms under the ball joints, at the height that the lift can just roll under the arms. Raise the rear of the car up as high as you safely can (If you have fuel in your tank, plug the fuel line or you'll have a siphon). Dropping the front, and raising the rear will let you keep the hoist a little lower going in (or out), and will reduce the angle you'll need to bring the trans down into (or out of) the firewall hump.

Use a swivel on an short extension chain between the lifting arm to the leveller. Keep the crank handle facing the firewall.

1967 Grande Parisienne 4DR HT
My Flickr page



 
AmericanPie 
Senior Member
Posts: 516

Loc: Camarillo, CA
Reg: 07-28-01
02-26-20 06:59 PM - Post#2787410    
    In response to mjc1

Great idea about dropping the front/raising the rear of the car for a better angle. I've read that some guys just deflate the front tires which would help get you pretty low. (I do have a small air compressor so I could just inflate them once the engine is out.) But, I can see that the lower the better and removing the front wheels would really help get it down even further.

1965 Impala SS 327, Crocus Yellow


 
mjc1 
Senior Member
Posts: 1612
mjc1
Loc: Burlington Ontario Canada
Reg: 09-15-04
02-26-20 09:19 PM - Post#2787419    
    In response to AmericanPie

Every little bit can help. Having the front end sit a little lower also makes it easier to reach over and in finessing the motor mount long bolts into place. If you'e rolling your hoist on the floor or drive, give the area a very good sweep of debris and grit, and lube the wheels beforehand. Cheers and good luck with the project.

1967 Grande Parisienne 4DR HT
My Flickr page



 
Oshawa65SS 
Contributor
Posts: 960

Age: 59
Loc: Burnaby BC Canada
Reg: 09-22-14
02-26-20 11:27 PM - Post#2787424    
    In response to AmericanPie

https://www.bowtiemuscleparts.com/products/camaro-...

The factory used two of the intake bolts.
These are missing on my Impala, but I have the equivalent on the 351W in my 69 Mach 1.

Ryan

65 Impala SS Evening Orchid convertible 283 2V with Powerglide and 10 bolt 3.08 open by PO, originally 3.36
Build date Dec. 21 '64 Oshawa


 
6T5 
"2nd Year Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 241
6T5
Age: 67
Loc: Asheville, NC
Reg: 07-22-17
02-27-20 05:20 AM - Post#2787427    
    In response to Oshawa65SS

That's what I used with this motor...

Attachment: New_crate_motor_May_2015.jpg (2.66 MB) 11 View(s)




...Ed

1965 Impala SS


 
65_Impala 
Very Senior Member
Posts: 4440

Reg: 12-29-02
02-27-20 08:10 AM - Post#2787445    
    In response to AmericanPie

I made a carb lifting plate and haven't done it any other way since. With the transmission attached, I just put a ratchet strap from the transmission to the hoist arm and lift the transmission enough to clear the body of the car. With help, you can hold the transmission up as you move it over the nose of the car.

You'll want to put a jack under the rear of the transmission, remove the crossmember and then lower the transmission 3-4 inches. Then, when you start lifting, the transmission will just lift off the jack. Installation is the reverse, you get it into the approximately right position and jack the transmission up until it's mostly level. Then, drop the engine onto the mounts and install the crossmember.

If you can, get a spare driveshaft yoke and plug it into the tailshaft of the transmission. IF not a yoke, then buy a plastic plug. Without one of those, the transmission will dump fluid everywhere when it gets tilted with the tailshaft down.

Make sure you start with the chains short enough the hoist will go high enough to clear. That's one of the reasons I've never bothered to used the lifter I have, it requires the hoist to go higher then it can lift to clear.

I've also pulled engine only without even removing the hood.



 
Gaspains 
"6th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 343
Gaspains
Loc: Mankato, MN
Reg: 11-23-09
02-27-20 11:22 AM - Post#2787468    
    In response to 65_Impala

I built a lifting plate for my small block. Not pretty, but it works. I've used it 3 or 4 times. I didn't have to lift over the sheet metal this last time, but would have still made the lift if I'd shortened the chain.

Attachment: Engine_lift.jpg (2.04 MB) 4 View(s)




Kevin
1965 Impala SS Coupe
Regal Red with Black Interior
L74 327
M-20
3.31 Open, 12 bolt

65-66 FSCC #512
NIA #2832


 
AmericanPie 
Senior Member
Posts: 516

Loc: Camarillo, CA
Reg: 07-28-01
02-27-20 10:24 PM - Post#2787494    
    In response to AmericanPie

Thanks for all the great info guys. This should make the job go much smoother than I anticipated.

I'm gathering a few more parts and hope to start this project in earnest within a month or two. I'll probably have a few more questions as it goes along.

1965 Impala SS 327, Crocus Yellow


 
65_Impala 
Very Senior Member
Posts: 4440

Reg: 12-29-02
02-28-20 12:13 PM - Post#2787529    
    In response to AmericanPie

Good luck with your project.

Just remember whichever way you go to watch the chain length from engine to hoist arm so you don't get it part way out and run out of lifting height. I've taken the engine and transmission out together with my car on 4 jack stands about 1' higher than if it was sitting on the wheels. That was using a carb plate with a hook bolted right in lift arm and no extra chain links.




 
MarkISS 
"2nd Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts: 144
MarkISS
Loc: Brevard, NC
Reg: 05-14-18
03-02-20 08:26 AM - Post#2787762    
    In response to 65_Impala

another ref picture, used the front left and right rear header bolts

Mark

Attachment: IMG_5359.JPG (3.79 MB) 5 View(s)




Mark - Brevard, NC - 66 Impala SS RestoMod
My detailed build thread link: chevyta.lk/66SSResto


 
Techhead 
Senior Member
Posts: 910
Techhead
Loc: Etobicoke, Canada
Reg: 10-25-05
03-02-20 10:09 AM - Post#2787775    
    In response to MarkISS

I probably over thunk while lifting 327/TH700r4

leveler and 4 points of contact on the engine.
I used the 4 outer manifold bolts.





I'll be Frank, this hobby isn't getting any easier.
58 Delray in disaray


 
65_Impala 
Very Senior Member
Posts: 4440

Reg: 12-29-02
03-02-20 12:39 PM - Post#2787794    
    In response to Techhead

Techhead - You won't get high enough to clear the front sheet metal with that chain setup.



 
Techhead 
Senior Member
Posts: 910
Techhead
Loc: Etobicoke, Canada
Reg: 10-25-05
03-02-20 12:58 PM - Post#2787796    
    In response to 65_Impala

  • 65_Impala Said:
Techhead - You won't get high enough to clear the front sheet metal with that chain setup.


65_Impala,
As you can see, no sheet metal to worry about. I do have another set of shorter chains.

I'll be Frank, this hobby isn't getting any easier.
58 Delray in disaray


 
mjc1 
Senior Member
Posts: 1612
mjc1
Loc: Burlington Ontario Canada
Reg: 09-15-04
03-03-20 07:49 PM - Post#2787907    
    In response to Techhead

Weren't you worried about hurting the purdy valve cover paint with those chains? I'm anal, and would have stuck some old leather welding gloves behind em'.

1967 Grande Parisienne 4DR HT
My Flickr page



 
Texasray 
"4th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 110
Texasray
Loc: Texas
Reg: 11-01-16
03-07-20 01:05 PM - Post#2788139    
    In response to mjc1

Just a note, I haven't seen this talked about yet. Drain the trans first. I've made Exxon Valdez type spills before, when in a hurry (end of day) and thought "can't be that much oil in it." Don't miss this step!
You will spend a lot more labor & time cleaning it up!


Sam




 
mjc1 
Senior Member
Posts: 1612
mjc1
Loc: Burlington Ontario Canada
Reg: 09-15-04
03-08-20 08:20 AM - Post#2788188    
    In response to Texasray

Have an old depleted plastic calking tube? Cut it off a few inches from the end and stick it in the trans output. Wire it to the tail housing and around the spout. Most tubes will fit perfect against the seal, and will prevent another Valdez.

1967 Grande Parisienne 4DR HT
My Flickr page



 
AmericanPie 
Senior Member
Posts: 516

Loc: Camarillo, CA
Reg: 07-28-01
03-10-20 10:09 PM - Post#2788395    
    In response to Techhead

  • Techhead Said:
I probably over thunk while lifting 327/TH700r4

leveler and 4 points of contact on the engine.
I used the 4 outer manifold bolts.








I think this is probably the ideal arrangement, the one that would give you the most control while tilting the engine/tranny unit and directing it into into the tunnel and then setting it on the engine and tranny mounts.

Wouldn't it be a good idea to just remove the valve covers completely to avoid any dents and/or scratches from the chains? It seems like even protecting them with heavy cloth might not be enough.

1965 Impala SS 327, Crocus Yellow


Edited by AmericanPie on 03-10-20 10:10 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
brickwhite 
Contributor
Posts: 106
brickwhite
Loc: Missouri
Reg: 09-05-19
03-11-20 06:12 AM - Post#2788408    
    In response to AmericanPie



intake plate... Amazon



Ted


 
65_Impala 
Very Senior Member
Posts: 4440

Reg: 12-29-02
03-11-20 07:01 AM - Post#2788415    
    In response to AmericanPie

  • AmericanPie Said:
I think this is probably the ideal arrangement, the one that would give you the most control while tilting the engine/tranny unit and directing it into into the tunnel and then setting it on the engine and tranny mounts.

Wouldn't it be a good idea to just remove the valve covers completely to avoid any dents and/or scratches from the chains? It seems like even protecting them with heavy cloth might not be enough.





I've gone around or over valve covers with a chain when I didn't care and dented the covers so I would be concerned about them getting damaged. Got to also be careful with the paint on the heads.

That arrangement won't even come close to clearing the front sheetmetal.




 


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