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Username Post: Cranks but will not fire        (Topic#359251)
mauryfrench 
Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 28
mauryfrench
Loc: Wylie, TX
Reg: 12-26-19
12-26-19 02:19 PM - Post#2782965    

Good day everyone. I have deleted my first attempt and will start over. I just bought a 98 chevy pickup, 5.7 Vortec with 208000 miles. It had a weird starting problem even when I bought it, but finally started. I got it home; drove just fine. I got it home, and maybe got it started one more time after fixing the lights for inspection. Now it cranks and cranks but will not fire. I have now changed the Ignition Module, Coil, Distributor Cap and Rotor. The old cap was in bad shape and only had one screw in it. BUT,I digress. Even with all those new parts, no change. cranks and cranks with no fire.

So a) is it possible to put the rotor on exactly backwards, and b) what else do I check. I know the fuel pump is fairly new, and I can smell the gas when I am trying to crank, so I don't think it is fuel pressure. Ideas?

Maury French
Wylie, TX
1998 Chevy ECLB 5.7 Vortec


 
CowboyTrukr 
"9th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 4385
CowboyTrukr
Loc: Salt Lake City
Reg: 06-20-09
12-26-19 02:29 PM - Post#2782969    
    In response to mauryfrench

It is possible, but you’d be more likely to get backfiring than zero spark.

Greg

'95 K1500 Z71 EC Short Step 5.7L+0.040/NV3500
'00 Explorer XLT 4.0 V6 Auto
'94 K2500 5.7 NV4500 ECLB - SOLD
‘87 GMC S15 SCLB 4.3 Auto - SOLD

"The only thing necessary for evil to triumph is for good men to do nothing" Sir Edmund Burke


 
mauryfrench 
Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 28
mauryfrench
Loc: Wylie, TX
Reg: 12-26-19
12-26-19 03:04 PM - Post#2782972    
    In response to CowboyTrukr

thank you Greg. Yeah, I just switched it, and still nothing. I figure when I actually get it to fire I will know real quick whether I have the rotor on right or not!

Thanks for your response.


Maury French
Wylie, TX
1998 Chevy ECLB 5.7 Vortec


 
454cid 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3141

Age: 47
Loc: West Michigan
Reg: 02-18-12
12-27-19 09:10 AM - Post#2783021    
    In response to mauryfrench

Have you tried pulling codes?

If you've already changed the ICM, I'd suspect maybe it's the crank sensor.

Hold onto the old ICM, especially if its the original. The originals seems to last longer than replacements, and if it didn't solve your problem it's probably still ok.

99 K3500 RCLB


 
mauryfrench 
Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 28
mauryfrench
Loc: Wylie, TX
Reg: 12-26-19
12-27-19 09:58 AM - Post#2783024    
    In response to 454cid

Thanks for the reply! I will keep the old one.

I did check the codes and there are none. One of my best purchases ever was that code reader.

And to followup further, I did go get a Fuel Pressure Gauge and a spark tester. Fuel Pressure is right at 60 psi, and their is still no spark.

BUT, and here is where I am currently feeling a little foolish, there is no, continuity from one end of the Coil to Distributor cap wire. None. Nothing. Nada, Zilch. So as soon as my other car gets back I am going for one of those. More to come!

Maury French
Wylie, TX
1998 Chevy ECLB 5.7 Vortec


 
mauryfrench 
Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 28
mauryfrench
Loc: Wylie, TX
Reg: 12-26-19
12-27-19 11:55 PM - Post#2783051    
    In response to mauryfrench

I should follow up. I was wrong thinking the continuity was an issue in Spark Plug / and coil to distributor cables; they need to be checked for resistance. I got a new cable anyway, and it is installed with the coil and ignition module, cap and rotor. All that remains it seems is the crank position sensor and the @^%@$%# ECM itself!

Maury French
Wylie, TX
1998 Chevy ECLB 5.7 Vortec


 
mauryfrench 
Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 28
mauryfrench
Loc: Wylie, TX
Reg: 12-26-19
01-01-20 05:53 PM - Post#2783446    
    In response to mauryfrench

well now I have a new coil, ICM, distributor cap, rotor and crankshaft position sensor. Still no fire.

If I decide to get a pre-programmed PCM for it, have any of you had luck changing that, or do I truly have to get it to a dealer?

Maury French
Wylie, TX
1998 Chevy ECLB 5.7 Vortec


 
rockfangd 
"7th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 2870
rockfangd
Age: 34
Loc: Utica ny
Reg: 04-13-10
01-01-20 07:36 PM - Post#2783452    
    In response to mauryfrench

Humor me and verify the distributor is good.
Not sure if that year still had the shaft wear issue.
Remove the cap.
Check the rotor for excessive play.
Bump the engine over with coil unplugged to see that the rotor turns normally

Old School GM fan FOREVER


 
mauryfrench 
Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 28
mauryfrench
Loc: Wylie, TX
Reg: 12-26-19
01-01-20 08:29 PM - Post#2783455    
    In response to rockfangd

I will do that. I have been testing back from the coil to the CPS, but am constantly surprised with how things work.


Maury French
Wylie, TX
1998 Chevy ECLB 5.7 Vortec


 
mauryfrench 
Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 28
mauryfrench
Loc: Wylie, TX
Reg: 12-26-19
01-15-20 08:40 PM - Post#2784457    
    In response to mauryfrench

A followup to all; I finally said uncle and had it towed to the shop. Turns out it was the ignition switch the whole time. I did test it, but I thought it tested okay. I am guessing now my test tool was not appropriate, and showed me a positive while cranking. Oh well, watch out for cheap test lights.


Maury French
Wylie, TX
1998 Chevy ECLB 5.7 Vortec


 
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