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Username Post: 65 Roof rail stainless trim        (Topic#359178)
Motown_mtrhd 
Poster
Posts: 69
Motown_mtrhd
Age: 67
Loc: Grand Blanc Mich
Reg: 12-22-15
12-20-19 11:15 AM - Post#2782557    

What method are u guys using to remove and remount the stainless roof rail trim on the 65-66 models? The car I bought has had it done before me and boy did they beat it up. I have replacement trim but don't want to approach it until someone out there can suggest some ideas.

Steve, 65 SS numbers 396,TH400 A/C Lots of power options. 1970 Chevelle, LS-LQ9 Tremec 5 spd,nuthin stock left. Drop Top . 34 Chevy 350 TPI,38 Chevy coupe.


 


Gaspains 
"6th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 333
Gaspains
Loc: Mankato, MN
Reg: 11-23-09
12-20-19 01:21 PM - Post#2782564    
    In response to Motown_mtrhd

There is an excellent write up with pictures in the Reference Materials area shown at the top of the home page. Look under the Body Section for drip rail removal. Click this link to go there directly.

You literally curl the trim as described to remove it. Re-installation is a nerve wracking effort, but doable. Just make sure you don't have heavy paint buildup on the gutter sheet metal under where the trim covers. If you do, the new trim won't "roll" back on. Might be why your current trim is beat up.

Kevin
1965 Impala SS Coupe
Regal Red with Black Interior
L74 327
M-20
3.31 Open, 12 bolt

65-66 FSCC #512
NIA #2832


 
Bramlettjk 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 84
Bramlettjk
Age: 41
Loc: N. MISSISSIPPI
Reg: 12-19-08
12-20-19 05:24 PM - Post#2782577    
    In response to Motown_mtrhd

https://youtu.be/60cmEhryisE

It is a ford, sorry, but I do better with visual instruction.

67 SS 396 CHEVELLE
65 SS 396 IMPALA

Life is easy, until you have four daughters.


 
Oshawa65SS 
Contributor
Posts: 954

Age: 59
Loc: Burnaby BC Canada
Reg: 09-22-14
12-20-19 11:34 PM - Post#2782591    
    In response to Bramlettjk

Yikes, doesn't bode well opening the package on the trunk of the painted car.
Afraid to keep watching to see what happens next.

Ryan

65 Impala SS Evening Orchid convertible 283 2V with Powerglide and 10 bolt 3.08 open by PO, originally 3.36
Build date Dec. 21 '64 Oshawa


 
Bramlettjk 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 84
Bramlettjk
Age: 41
Loc: N. MISSISSIPPI
Reg: 12-19-08
12-21-19 03:09 PM - Post#2782626    
    In response to Oshawa65SS

I learn a little from everyone. Both suggestions have good tips that help.

67 SS 396 CHEVELLE
65 SS 396 IMPALA

Life is easy, until you have four daughters.


 
bigbowtielover 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 2569
bigbowtielover
Loc: Surrey British Columbia
Reg: 09-01-13
12-24-19 08:56 PM - Post#2782861    
    In response to Bramlettjk

I used to use a can opener. Last few I removed I used a wide wood chisel and a small hammer and a 1/2" square piece of wood about 3" long (for prying leverage). Putting it back on is tricky. Rubber hammer and careful tapping after molding is positioned correctly. Start at rear and work towards front. Getting it to snap into the groove is hard. Too much paint in the area covered by molding won't let it fit. When these cars were built they had one thin coat of primer and one thin coat of paint. Keep that in mind. Most molding damage is done removing it. I destroyed a few myself before mastering removal techniques that worked.



 
Motown_mtrhd 
Poster
Posts: 69
Motown_mtrhd
Age: 67
Loc: Grand Blanc Mich
Reg: 12-22-15
12-29-19 02:28 PM - Post#2783144    
    In response to bigbowtielover

Thanks to everyone for your ideas' I can see where the excess paint may have been the problem. This car was repainted with what looks like enamel before I bought it and seeing the masterful job they did on the paint its probably got a bunch of runs in that area they didn't address first.

Steve, 65 SS numbers 396,TH400 A/C Lots of power options. 1970 Chevelle, LS-LQ9 Tremec 5 spd,nuthin stock left. Drop Top . 34 Chevy 350 TPI,38 Chevy coupe.


 


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