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Username Post: Changing steering coupler        (Topic#359110)
Posts: 57

Loc: Germany
Reg: 08-08-05
12-12-19 11:43 AM - Post#2782017    

Hi there, I need to pull the steering coupler off ny 59 Sedan Delivery for a rebuilt. It,s the upper coupler, not the rag coupler at the bottom of the steering shsft. Can I remove it without pulling the steering column or the upper half of the steering shaft? Thanks for any advice.Cheers Cornelius


Valued Contributor
Posts: 3653

Loc: Northeast CT
Reg: 06-27-10
12-13-19 09:14 AM - Post#2782071    
    In response to flowbench

You have to provide room to remove it, so it is either remove the upper part of the steering column, or remove the steering box from the frame, along with disconnecting it from the steering linkage. Either one is going to be work that has to be done. My experience is that if either of the joints is worn, then there is also wear in the upper and lower bearings of the column itself, and you might as well clean up and replace all worn parts at once. The factory service manual should contain instructions and pictures of the break down of parts. Sourcing the replacement parts might be the bigger problem.

Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level, then beat you with experience.

"9th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1601
Loc: Smyrna, Georgia
Reg: 06-07-12
12-13-19 04:12 PM - Post#2782096    
    In response to flowbench

I’m not sure if the ’59 Sedan Delivery steering parts between the steering wheel and the steering box are the same as my ’60 Impala or not and if they aren’t then the following want work for you. While I had my car disassembled, I disassembled the steering coupler because I wanted to rebuild it and change the boot because it was cracked and leaking some of the lubricant. After I got it apart I found that there is really not much to rebuild, I guess if the coupler was completely dry that could wear the slot and the little square parts but mine looked pretty good and there was very little play of the square parts and the slot so I just cleaned everything up lubed and reassembled them. I guess that you could do what I did without removing the upper steering shaft but in order to change the boot the shaft will have to be removed and like junky said while you have it out you should go ahead and replace the bearings as well. You can remove the lower shaft by removing the nuts and remove the clamp on the other end just below the coupler. This will allow the lower shaft to be pushed up into the bottom part of the coupler enough to allow the rag joint to be separated. This is the part that I’m not completely sure of because it has been a while since I did mine. With the steering wheel removed the upper shaft will slide out but I’m not sure when I did mine if the shaft column was completely fastened down or not. If the column has to be movable in order for the shaft to be removed then that is a lot of stuff to disconnect just to get the shaft out. Hope that this helps, Lamar

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My ’60 Chevy history video:

Edited by PLS on 12-13-19 04:38 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

Posts: 997

Loc: Scotts Valley, CA
Reg: 03-20-10
12-14-19 10:28 AM - Post#2782139    
    In response to PLS

I had a persistent "clunk" in the steering shaft of my '58 for years. After replacing/repairing all other parts on the column, I finally disassembled the coupler above. Careful measurements showed small (0.003" or so, but my memory may be failing me) play between the pin blocks (part "A" above) and the coupler housing (part "C"). Further inspection revealed wear marks in both components. I located new pin blocks (part "A") sourced from a Jeep parts distributor, plus an NOS coupler housing. The results were great: the clunk was completely eliminated. Problem solved. Furthermore, it was an easy job all around. Wish I had done it a long time ago.

'58 Delray 283 3-speed OD
In the family since new

Edited by Delray_58 on 12-14-19 10:29 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

Senior Member
Posts: 955
Loc: Etobicoke, Canada
Reg: 10-25-05
12-14-19 12:15 PM - Post#2782142    
    In response to Delray_58

If you need to replace "Part A" DanChuk sells them for the Tri-5's. I picked up a pair years ago from there.

I'll be Frank, this hobby isn't getting any easier.
58 Delray in disaray

Very Senior Member
Posts: 4091

Age: 70
Loc: Above the red Texas dirt
Reg: 08-12-02
12-15-19 09:45 AM - Post#2782197    
    In response to Techhead

Here's the link to the Jeep parts that Delray 58 alluded to in his above post :

The Jeep models listed use Saginaw steering parts just like your Chevrolet. I ordered a set and they are identical to the original in all sizes. Danchuck may sell them as well, but check pricing first. The ones I ordered were sent in a small padded envelope and the shipping cost was very cheap.


Posts: 57

Loc: Germany
Reg: 08-08-05
12-31-19 06:41 AM - Post#2783290    
    In response to 62sedan

Thanks guys !
I pulled now the entire steering column and am in the process of dissassembling everything.Although the "plays" within the bearings and the coupler are marginal I am going to replace everything.
Thanks, Cornelius

Posts: 6

Loc: Sth.Australia
Reg: 04-19-20
05-15-20 02:28 AM - Post#2793826    
    In response to flowbench

Hi just jumping in on this subject guys, is there anything I could use instead of this joint on my 60 Belair? maybe a standard uni joint?

Posts: 997

Loc: Scotts Valley, CA
Reg: 03-20-10
05-23-20 09:04 AM - Post#2794551    
    In response to davethepommie

That might be possible. However, the factory joint is also intended to absorb some axial movement or adjustment, in addition to the typical rotational (X-Y) movement. A typical Borgeson-style joint doesn't provide an axial movement or compensation. I imagine that without that axial movement there might be the chance of binding during rotation, but that's just a guess as I haven't tried that.

'58 Delray 283 3-speed OD
In the family since new

Posts: 2

Loc: Idaho, USA
Reg: 05-25-20
05-25-20 07:06 PM - Post#2794841    
    In response to davethepommie

For my '59 I had a machine shop mill the coupler block slot a few thousandths larger and press-fit a new pin in the top steering shaft. Then I had another shop make two new bearing blocks in a slightly oversized dimension to match the slot. No one reproduces this part, so I had to make my own. All play was eliminated.


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