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Username Post: Engine is overheating!        (Topic#359087)
Eth727 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 284
Eth727
Loc: San Diego
Reg: 04-17-19
12-09-19 01:07 PM - Post#2781800    

Hey guys I've got a 283 engine that didn't overheat until I installed
New: Edelbrock carb, Edelbrock intake manifold, 2 radiator flushes, both radiator hoses, thermostat,radiator cap, coolant sensor.
I also did a pressure test of 13lbs and that held without leaks.
I drained the old coolant and even did 2 flushes with cleaner and distilled water.
The weird thing is I went to refill the radiator and it overflowed at 2.5 gallons. That's little over 1/2 the coolant capacity.
Before it use to run 1/4 hot. Thats why I wanted to put a new thermostat and coolant temp sensor.
I let it idle for 15 and it went all the way to HOT.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks



 


55Brodie 
Contributor
Posts: 293
55Brodie
Age: 67
Loc: Little River, SC
Reg: 12-26-15
12-09-19 01:42 PM - Post#2781803    
    In response to Eth727

I would start by verifying the temperature with a mechanical gauge.



 
turbo38s10 
"8th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1716
turbo38s10
Loc: Agawam,MA
Reg: 09-17-09
12-09-19 01:52 PM - Post#2781804    
    In response to Eth727

Sounds air bound or your intake gaskets are installed wrong or are incorrect.

Try taking the themostat back out and drill a 1/8" hole in the flat sheet metal part to allow air and water to flow when the thermostat is closed.

Or use a vacuum system to fill the radiator.
If those don't work the only way I know to check the gaskets is to remove the manifold to see if you blocked a passage with the gasket. Someone else may know better but I would try the others first.




 
Bad56Sedan 
"13th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1200
Bad56Sedan
Loc: Pasadena, Texas
Reg: 04-29-04
12-09-19 02:28 PM - Post#2781809    
    In response to Eth727

As described above it is possible since you have changed the manifold air is trapped.
Do you have mechanical thermometers in each head?
Not that that makes any difference, but if so you can see the radical temp bouncing in each head due to trapped air.
Another method if you don't want to drill the thermostat bypass holes is to remove the upper coolant hose and housing and the thermostat, fill the block reinstall the upper radiator hose , , ,thermostat and housing, slowly fill the radiator allowing the coolant to fill the upper radiator hose and then the radiator.
Surely this will solve your issue, another thing to do is start up cold if you drill the two 1/8" bypasses in the thermostat then with radiator cap off, then slowly increase engine rpm, you should see increased traffic in the rad.
only do this cold


VC56S 2 door Sedan, 39 Years



 
Eth727 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 284
Eth727
Loc: San Diego
Reg: 04-17-19
12-09-19 03:49 PM - Post#2781816    
    In response to Bad56Sedan

I verified the gaskets were installed properly because the shiny side stays up and fits either side. I also put rvt around the water jacket holes not too much. How often does a new thermostat go bad? I checked the upper hose by squeezing it. By 15 minutes of idle the hose is full and hot too the touch.
My last test will be removing the thermostat again and drilling the hole but I'm hesitant to do that since it's a pain to clean of and reglue the gasket.



 
Bad56Sedan 
"13th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1200
Bad56Sedan
Loc: Pasadena, Texas
Reg: 04-29-04
12-09-19 05:39 PM - Post#2781828    
    In response to Eth727

I would say I have never seen a thermostat go bad, come apart or destroy itself or failed to open.
Of course there is the method of testing.
Even with trapped air the upper radiator hose can fool you.
do you have any plugs in the Intake manifold that go into the water jacket?
If so it is possible to vent the air out that way. Then refill the rad.


VC56S 2 door Sedan, 39 Years



 
dcairns 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 2095
dcairns
Loc: Orange CA
Reg: 11-07-03
12-09-19 05:56 PM - Post#2781829    
    In response to Eth727

Those thermostats that have the little holes drilled in them are the greatest thing! Saves all that tedious burping the system. You can by thermostats with the holes or make them yourself.

- Dave
1964 Impala 4-door sedan

_________
/ --------------- \
_/ /___________\ \_
/_________|_________\
|OOO ___________ OOO|
\______|====|______/
|_|------------------|_|




 
Eth727 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 284
Eth727
Loc: San Diego
Reg: 04-17-19
12-09-19 05:59 PM - Post#2781830    
    In response to Bad56Sedan

What I don't get is, I've flushed the system 2 times and I wasn't able to fill it with 17 quarts of water.



 
Eth727 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 284
Eth727
Loc: San Diego
Reg: 04-17-19
12-09-19 06:36 PM - Post#2781835    
    In response to Bad56Sedan

Right now I have both heater holes plugged. I though it got hot because I hooked up the heater core again but I went back and repligged them and it's still the same. I took the heat core and got it repaired for a leak. I removed the upper radiator hose from the radiator side and water spilled all over the place.



 
ragtp66 
Contributor
Posts: 838

Reg: 12-09-07
12-09-19 09:34 PM - Post#2781847    
    In response to Eth727

Are you using just the gauge? Try using an IR heat gun you can find them for less than $20 see if it is really getting that hot.

Did you use teflon tape installing the sending unit? If so remove the sender and teflon tape and put thread sealer on the threads and reinstall.
Teflon tape interferes with the grounding and will give you a very inaccurate gauge reading.

Rechecking timing also if it is retarded it will run hot as well.

Toys:
1958 Impala 2dr Hardtop Under Construction
1966 Chevelle Malibu Convert M20/350 Aztec Bronze
1987 Sea Ray Pachanga 22
2002 Cadillac Escalade EXT Parts chaser
2007 Trailblazer SS -gone and missed


 
turbo38s10 
"8th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1716
turbo38s10
Loc: Agawam,MA
Reg: 09-17-09
12-10-19 05:25 AM - Post#2781856    
    In response to ragtp66

If you do the thermostat replace it with a high flow and drill the vent holes.



 
58Yeoman 
Newbie
Posts: 48

Loc: Burlington, Ontario
Reg: 12-22-15
12-10-19 05:49 AM - Post#2781858    
    In response to Eth727

Did you change the temp sending unit on the intake? If so, are you sure you got the right replacement one? I had an "overheating problem" on my'60 vette similar to your problem many years ago. It turned out I had the wrong sending unit. If so and you still have the old one, swap that back in to see what happens.

1958 Chevrolet wagon (Yeoman)
1961 Impala convertible
1964 Impala Sport Sedan (parts car)


 
Eth727 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 284
Eth727
Loc: San Diego
Reg: 04-17-19
12-10-19 08:13 AM - Post#2781869    
    In response to 58Yeoman

Where do I point the I.R. reader at? The upper RAD hose?



 
64ss409 
Senior Member
Posts: 921

Loc: Montana
Reg: 12-04-02
12-10-19 09:30 AM - Post#2781873    
    In response to Eth727

In your first post you mentioned new intake manifold. Is that when the problem started? Did you time it correctly? I have seen retarded timing turn the exhaust manifolds red very fast. Everything else could heat quicker than it should.
Ron

1964 SS 409/340 4 spd, bought new Oct '63 from Ken Boggs Chevrolet, Geraldine, Montana


 
Lead sled 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1967
Lead sled
Age: 59
Loc: Walton,NY.
Reg: 11-04-09
12-10-19 01:41 PM - Post#2781887    
    In response to Eth727

Does the block have 2 drain plugs ( 1 on each side) to completely drain the block of coolant?
If so, raise front of car a little bit, then drain the coolant,and flush from radiator, then the drain plugs, till block is completely empty. Fill rad with 50/50 mix of coolant/ water(after closing drain plugs) start engine till warmed up, coolant level should drop in rad. Fill it back up to completely full while engine is still running. This should push all the air from system, and allow you to get your 17 quarts.

Late yr model (Dec. 51 BelAir/ 52 trim), with a basically stock 67 Camaro SS350/295hp Turbo Fire Edelbrock 1405, Saginaw 4spd/355 geared 55/6 Chevy rear.2,1st place,and 1 top five award trophies so far
http://www.picturetrail.com/bris51deluxe


 
CATS 09 
Poster
Posts: 53
CATS 09
Reg: 05-27-12
12-10-19 04:47 PM - Post#2781906    
    In response to 58Yeoman

Ignition timing if not set properly will make it run hot too, maybe go back to that and make sure it’s correct.



 
Lead sled 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1967
Lead sled
Age: 59
Loc: Walton,NY.
Reg: 11-04-09
12-10-19 08:13 PM - Post#2781920    
    In response to CATS 09

I don't understand what timing has to do with the cooling system not holding the capacity of 17qts, that he's looking for

Late yr model (Dec. 51 BelAir/ 52 trim), with a basically stock 67 Camaro SS350/295hp Turbo Fire Edelbrock 1405, Saginaw 4spd/355 geared 55/6 Chevy rear.2,1st place,and 1 top five award trophies so far
http://www.picturetrail.com/bris51deluxe


 
Eth727 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 284
Eth727
Loc: San Diego
Reg: 04-17-19
12-10-19 09:22 PM - Post#2781924    
    In response to Lead sled

Yeah I made reference marks on the distributor before I removed it, even took photos and it's in the same spot.
I put a spill proof funnel and bled the air out. Then heater core leaked. I just had it repaired yesterday. The guy repaired it and tested it to 25lbs. I'm going to plug it again and try a new thermostat.



 
ragtp66 
Contributor
Posts: 838

Reg: 12-09-07
12-10-19 10:21 PM - Post#2781925    
    In response to Eth727

Put a timing light on it. Even when you mark it, it can still go back in a tooth off.

You can use the IR gun from top to bottom on radiator. You can also shoot the intake manifold and exhaust ports. You are looking for consistency not so much a specific temperature. If all exhaust ports are 200* and all the intake runners are 195* your fine but if one is 220* and the rest are 200* your problem is in that cylinder.
I prefer to do all the things that do not cost anything to double check before going forward especially if it just started since the manifold change. Pull dipstick and make sure you do not have coolant in the oil also.


Toys:
1958 Impala 2dr Hardtop Under Construction
1966 Chevelle Malibu Convert M20/350 Aztec Bronze
1987 Sea Ray Pachanga 22
2002 Cadillac Escalade EXT Parts chaser
2007 Trailblazer SS -gone and missed


 
DonSSDD 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 7239
DonSSDD
Loc: Nova Scotia, Canada
Reg: 08-21-01
12-11-19 10:26 AM - Post#2781940    
    In response to ragtp66

If it’s overheating, you should see steam? Antifreeze overflowing?
When you fill these rads, you fill to cover the fins in the rad filler neck, not to the top. The car will likely burp a bit out if you fill to the top, but that’s ok, as long as the antifreeze is visible above the fins, you’re fine. That’s the way they worked from factory as they were built without an overflow tank.

63 Pontiac Parisienne Sport Coupe(CDN Chev mechanically (409, 4 speed),62 Bel Air SC (sold), 59 El Camino (sold), 62 Bel Air SC(sold), 63 SWC Vette (sold),
Member #2194


Edited by DonSSDD on 12-11-19 01:00 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Bad56Sedan 
"13th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1200
Bad56Sedan
Loc: Pasadena, Texas
Reg: 04-29-04
12-11-19 12:13 PM - Post#2781945    
    In response to Eth727

Geez, another high jacked thread,
OP stated what he had done,
It is a simple case of trapped air,
If you read the replys it sounds like he should pulled the engine, replace the rear axles, checked the fuse box and then deem it irrepairable and sell the car for what ever he can get for it!
Why does this happen, almost every post that someone asks a question ends up as nearly irreparable?
Read the original posters post, what did he do?
now he has issues.
What did he post that he did?
You would think re-painting the car is the only cure after reading the replys.



VC56S 2 door Sedan, 39 Years



Edited by Bad56Sedan on 12-11-19 12:14 PM. Reason for edit: I hope you get a laugh, I did!

 
Bad56Sedan 
"13th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1200
Bad56Sedan
Loc: Pasadena, Texas
Reg: 04-29-04
12-11-19 12:20 PM - Post#2781946    
    In response to Bad56Sedan

I'm still laughing

VC56S 2 door Sedan, 39 Years



 
55Brodie 
Contributor
Posts: 293
55Brodie
Age: 67
Loc: Little River, SC
Reg: 12-26-15
12-11-19 01:27 PM - Post#2781951    
    In response to Bad56Sedan

Pretty funny.
I'm still wondering 2 things: how the OP knows it is hot and how does he know he is short of the 17 quarts of coolant he thinks he needs?
Unless the block drain plugs were removed there will still be coolant in the block. I would put the original temp sender back on the engine and check temp again. Or verify with an IR gun or mechanical gauge.



 
Eth727 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 284
Eth727
Loc: San Diego
Reg: 04-17-19
12-11-19 01:55 PM - Post#2781954    
    In response to 55Brodie

I don't know if it is really overheating. I just went off what the gauge showed. I don't even know what temperature is considered normal or not. I bought and installed a new thermostat. This one is for 190 something degrees. It's what oreilly said was oem. I don't have the original one that I took off the 1st time. I have the one that I just took off and not sure if it's the same temp. I burped the coolant with a spill proof funnel. My heater core started to leak. It had just been repaired and tested. When I burped it I saw foamy bubbles and it went away. I'm going to keep trying I need to resolve this. Next will be the original temp sensor will go back on but it takes three days for the thread seal to cure. After that I will go and buy a IR sensor.



 
Mel Foye 
*VIP* Original Founding Member Group
Posts: 4955
Mel Foye
Reg: 09-29-00
12-11-19 02:56 PM - Post#2781959    
    In response to Eth727


I drained the old coolant and even did 2 flushes with cleaner and distilled water.
The weird thing is I went to refill the radiator and it overflowed at 2.5 gallons. That's little over 1/2 the coolant capacity.
Before it use to run 1/4 hot. Thats why I wanted to put a new thermostat and coolant temp sensor.
I let it idle for 15 and it went all the way to HOT.
A COUPLE of things. A lot of what I learned about cars came from a buddy who made things simple so here goes. Picture a five gal bucket that you want to put in about 4.5 gals but it overflows at 2.5 gal. going in. Either the bucket had a sealed bag of air at the bottom or my favorite in this case--there was fluid still in the bucket.
I would want to get that mix of flush and crud out now.
A 190 is not original as per the counter person. But it will not cause overheating in a good set up. Me I run 180s in my old stuff because they run better. Get an irf gun and find out the real temps. I don't think you have a major problem here.




 
Lead sled 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1967
Lead sled
Age: 59
Loc: Walton,NY.
Reg: 11-04-09
12-11-19 03:30 PM - Post#2781963    
    In response to Eth727

Like I stated earlier, OPEN THE DRAIN PLUGS IN THE BLOCK. They may be plugged with crap,if so, poke some wire in them to knock it loose.

Late yr model (Dec. 51 BelAir/ 52 trim), with a basically stock 67 Camaro SS350/295hp Turbo Fire Edelbrock 1405, Saginaw 4spd/355 geared 55/6 Chevy rear.2,1st place,and 1 top five award trophies so far
http://www.picturetrail.com/bris51deluxe


 
Eth727 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 284
Eth727
Loc: San Diego
Reg: 04-17-19
12-11-19 07:21 PM - Post#2781990    
    In response to Lead sled

Where are the drain plugs? Can I close them up again with teflon tape?I thought everything came out of the radiator drain petcock. Nobody mentioned the drain plugs in the engine in the YouTube videos I watched. Why didn't all the crud come out when I removed the bottom hose?
I just boiled my last thermostat and it opened up right before boiling. It has 180 on it. Should I replace the 195 with the 180.
It's a pain because the housing only uses permatex gasket maker and it takes 24hrs before I can run it. For some reason the other gaskets leak.



 
Verne_Frantz 
Member #574 "61-64 Subject Matter Expert"
Posts: 5655
Verne_Frantz
Loc: Hightstown,NJ USA
Reg: 08-22-00
12-11-19 08:16 PM - Post#2781992    
    In response to Eth727

Here are the drain plugs (one per side). They will be very tight. Be careful not to round them off trying to remove them.
A little Teflon tape is all you need when you reinstall them.
Verne



Attachment: eng.crank.rods.drain_plug.jpg (529.72 KB) 9 View(s)






 
Eth727 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 284
Eth727
Loc: San Diego
Reg: 04-17-19
12-11-19 09:20 PM - Post#2781995    
    In response to Verne_Frantz

Is that the oil filter to the left? Thanks



 
The Factory Man 
Member
Posts: 145
The Factory Man
Age: 68
Loc: Tacoma Washington
Reg: 05-28-04
12-11-19 11:06 PM - Post#2781999    
    In response to Eth727

Yes.

Retired and loving it!!!
Steven L Jones
33 years with General Motors Product Service Engineering.
A.S.E. Certified.


 


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