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Username Post: Window regulator wheels for 1954        (Topic#358995)
dsacton 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1210
dsacton
Loc: Boulder, CO
Reg: 11-01-11
11-30-19 10:32 AM - Post#2781290    

Hi Folks,

Has anyone ever replaced the plastic wheels in your window regulator? NCA offers a plastic wheel and I think I will buy a set. What have you all done after removing the rivets? I'm thinking about threading some standoffs.

Here's the link to the NCA part. Looks like they include somekind of a plastic thing to replace the stud.

https://www.nationalchevyassoc.com/1074

Thanks,




Attachment: image0.jpg (133.51 KB) 6 View(s)




Scott Acton
1954 Chevy Bel Air 2-door
http://www.my54chevy.com


 


rrausch 
"16th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 14181
rrausch
Loc: L.A, Cal. & St. Louis...
Reg: 04-07-03
11-30-19 02:01 PM - Post#2781296    
    In response to dsacton

Is that the original steel slider, or a broken plastic roller? I can't tell from the photo. If it's the steel slider, it should have a leather washer behind the head. These are far superior to any of the aftermarket rollers available. In the glass shop we never replaced these--they are just too dependable and rugged.

1953 210 Convertible, 261 with dual Carter YF 966S carbs, P.S., Remote Bendix P.B. Booster... shade-tree restoration about done.




 
dsacton 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1210
dsacton
Loc: Boulder, CO
Reg: 11-01-11
11-30-19 03:04 PM - Post#2781301    
    In response to rrausch

It's a broken plastic roller. This is the side that was burned; surprizingly good condition, all things considered. The steel sliders cleaned up very well. But I need to at least replace the rollers.

So do you mean there is supposed to be a leather washer between the roller and the head on the stud? Here's a picture from the other side of the car. Thanks!



Attachment: roller.jpg (105.88 KB) 8 View(s)




Scott Acton
1954 Chevy Bel Air 2-door
http://www.my54chevy.com


 
rrausch 
"16th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 14181
rrausch
Loc: L.A, Cal. & St. Louis...
Reg: 04-07-03
11-30-19 09:32 PM - Post#2781316    
    In response to dsacton

The leather washer was only used with the steel slider.

1953 210 Convertible, 261 with dual Carter YF 966S carbs, P.S., Remote Bendix P.B. Booster... shade-tree restoration about done.




 
dsacton 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1210
dsacton
Loc: Boulder, CO
Reg: 11-01-11
11-30-19 09:54 PM - Post#2781317    
    In response to rrausch

Oh--I think I understand. You mean **instead of** a roller.



Scott Acton
1954 Chevy Bel Air 2-door
http://www.my54chevy.com


 
lobucrod 
Contributor
Posts: 663
lobucrod
Age: 67
Loc: Slaton, TX
Reg: 10-01-07
12-01-19 05:10 AM - Post#2781324    
    In response to dsacton

The black piece that NCA shows is a black colored steel stud.

'38 Chevy Coupe Gasser 409 powered
'50 Sedan Delivery 401 Nailhead powered
'62 Buick Electra original survivor


 
rrausch 
"16th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 14181
rrausch
Loc: L.A, Cal. & St. Louis...
Reg: 04-07-03
12-01-19 05:45 AM - Post#2781326    
    In response to lobucrod

I believe that black thing is a hollow-end rivet. These hollow-end rivets do not hold up nearly as well as a solid steel rivet, which is what we used in the glass shop anytime we had to change out a roller.

1953 210 Convertible, 261 with dual Carter YF 966S carbs, P.S., Remote Bendix P.B. Booster... shade-tree restoration about done.




 
chevyivar 
Contributor
Posts: 103

Age: 39
Loc: Norway
Reg: 08-30-12
12-01-19 01:05 PM - Post#2781338    
    In response to dsacton

Hi.

Im about to install factory power windows in my 54 and swapped out those wheels last week at the same time checking the motors.
I drilled the back side of the rivet, not much- just until i was able to tap out the rivet and wheel, then i swapped out the wheel with a new one, using the same old rivet.
I carefully welded the rivet where i had been using the drill.
A glas of water on the bench cause the plastic dont like heat, you have to be quick.
Worked for me.
Or you can fabricate if you have a lathe;)

1939 Chevrolet Master Deluxe 85
1954 Chevrolet Bel Air Sport Coupe
1954 Chevrolet Bel Air Convertible


 
RAM_51 
"4th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 5544
RAM_51
Loc: Yakima, WA. USA
Reg: 12-28-02
12-01-19 04:14 PM - Post#2781342    
    In response to chevyivar

I like it! Being in Norway, and with not a lot of '53-54 Chevs laying around, that you've devised many little tricks to repair different items. One has to do, what one has to do.

1951 Fleetline Preservation
'51 Fleetline DeLuxe 2 DOOR SEDAN (Fathom Green)
'51 Styleline Special BUSINESS COUPE (Shadow Gray)
'53 6500 Dump Bed (Oxidized Red)
'50 Styleline DeLuxe 4 DOOR SEDAN (Mist Green)


 
dsacton 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1210
dsacton
Loc: Boulder, CO
Reg: 11-01-11
12-18-19 07:49 PM - Post#2782452    
    In response to lobucrod

Well, I got the regulator rebuilt. I have to say, I was not impressed with the parts I order from the National Chevy Association. The hollow end rivets would have been fine, except that they were too small for the holes in the regulator. I ended up turning some aluminum sleeves to make up the gap, holding it on by drilling and tapping the stud. It's going to work fine, but it sure would have been nice if they just sold the right part to begin with!


Attachment: roller1.jpg (194.7 KB) 1 View(s)


WIndow regulator roller


Scott Acton
1954 Chevy Bel Air 2-door
http://www.my54chevy.com


 
rrausch 
"16th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 14181
rrausch
Loc: L.A, Cal. & St. Louis...
Reg: 04-07-03
12-19-19 06:24 AM - Post#2782479    
    In response to dsacton

The regulators were made by different vendors, and they probably used different hardware. Let us know how it holds up.

1953 210 Convertible, 261 with dual Carter YF 966S carbs, P.S., Remote Bendix P.B. Booster... shade-tree restoration about done.




 


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