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Username Post: High beams won't turn off        (Topic#358947)
Jeff1951 
Poster
Posts: 52

Age: 73
Loc: Bloomfield Township, MI
Reg: 11-12-18
11-26-19 02:10 PM - Post#2781014    

Hello All!
A new issue just started on my '51 concerning the hi beam headlights- they won't turn off. I can't switch to low beams. I removed the dimmer switch and thought that the problem was in that but it checked out perfectly. There is continuity from the "BAT" lug to each of the low and high lugs as the switch is operated. I put the switch back in and, on the car, it doesn't seem to disconnect from the high lug. What I did find is that with the wires off the switch, there is continuity from the low beam wire to the high beam wire. This doesn't make sense. I removed the headlights to see if perhaps there was a short in the bulb. Same thing. Electrical is not my strong suit so any help would be greatly appreciated. I also posted this on the VCCA site.
Jeff



 


bobt 
Contributor
Posts: 243

Loc: colonial heights va
Reg: 06-28-14
11-27-19 02:23 AM - Post#2781042    
    In response to Jeff1951

Are you running 6 volt or 12 volt? I had to put headlight relays on my 1951 Fleetline 12 volt because I kept frying my headlight switch. bobt



 
Jeff1951 
Poster
Posts: 52

Age: 73
Loc: Bloomfield Township, MI
Reg: 11-12-18
11-27-19 06:11 AM - Post#2781049    
    In response to bobt

bobt,
Thanks for the reply. The system is 6 volt, all original.
Jeff



 
lobucrod 
Contributor
Posts: 653
lobucrod
Age: 67
Loc: Slaton, TX
Reg: 10-01-07
11-27-19 08:55 AM - Post#2781064    
    In response to Jeff1951

Use a jumper wire to connect the terminals on the dimmer switch plug and see I’m you have separate high and low beams. It so the switch is the problem. If still only high beams you have the high and low circuits in the wiring harness shorted together somewhere. If you just wired the switch you may have the hot lead on the wrong terminal

'38 Chevy Coupe Gasser 409 powered
'50 Sedan Delivery 401 Nailhead powered
'62 Buick Electra original survivor


Edited by lobucrod on 11-27-19 02:23 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
chevyivar 
Poster
Posts: 98
chevyivar
Age: 39
Loc: Norway
Reg: 08-30-12
11-27-19 10:02 AM - Post#2781068    
    In response to bobt

I had the same problem with a Willys MB that i have, i know you say that the switch is working, this is how i fixed mine.
A old timer told me that they would have problems with the floor switches back in the days if the switches wasnt used that often, sometimes they would get stuck in either high or low beam...
I was told to step dance on that switch like cracy, and it did the trick,after a few seconds the High/low beam was working, just a thought:)

1939 Chevrolet Master Deluxe 85
1954 Chevrolet Bel Air Sport Coupe
1954 Chevrolet Bel Air Convertible


Edited by chevyivar on 11-27-19 10:04 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
53sd 
Contributor
Posts: 167

Reg: 12-08-08
11-27-19 10:06 AM - Post#2781069    
    In response to Jeff1951

Continuity between hi and low wires? Shouldn't be [of course]
Check for wires touching at light wire connectors, on each side of the rad support.
Disconnect light wires that go thru tube in front of rad, too see if problem is before or after that place.
Adding one headlight wire at a time, may reveal issue.



 
Jeff1951 
Poster
Posts: 52

Age: 73
Loc: Bloomfield Township, MI
Reg: 11-12-18
11-27-19 10:24 AM - Post#2781070    
    In response to lobucrod

  • lobucrod Said:
Use a jumper wire to connect the terminals on the dimmer switch plug and see I’m you have separate high and low beams. It so the switch is the problem. If still only high beams you have the high and low circuits I’m the wiring harness shorted together somewhere. If you just wired the switch you may have the hot lead on the wrong terminal


That is a great suggestion and I will give it try.
I'll report back when I do.
Jeff



 
Jeff1951 
Poster
Posts: 52

Age: 73
Loc: Bloomfield Township, MI
Reg: 11-12-18
11-27-19 10:27 AM - Post#2781071    
    In response to chevyivar

  • chevyivar Said:
I had the same problem with a Willys MB that i have, i know you say that the switch is working, this is how i fixed mine.
A old timer told me that they would have problems with the floor switches back in the days if the switches wasnt used that often, sometimes they would get stuck in either high or low beam...
I was told to step dance on that switch like cracy, and it did the trick,after a few seconds the High/low beam was working, just a thought:)


That I have done and no change. I don't believe that the switch is the problem because I get continuity to the "L" post and when I activate the switch the continuity to this goes away and there is continuity to the "U" post. That would indicate that the switch is switching from one to the other as it should.
Jeff



 
Jeff1951 
Poster
Posts: 52

Age: 73
Loc: Bloomfield Township, MI
Reg: 11-12-18
11-27-19 10:28 AM - Post#2781072    
    In response to 53sd

  • 53sd Said:
Continuity between hi and low wires? Shouldn't be [of course]
Check for wires touching at light wire connectors, on each side of the rad support.
Disconnect light wires that go thru tube in front of rad, too see if problem is before or after that place.
Adding one headlight wire at a time, may reveal issue.


Another good suggestion. Thank you!
Jeff



 
Jeff1951 
Poster
Posts: 52

Age: 73
Loc: Bloomfield Township, MI
Reg: 11-12-18
11-29-19 10:38 AM - Post#2781248    
    In response to Jeff1951

Update- problem solved! It turns outhat the high and low filament on one of the bulbs were touching. A different bulb soved the problem. Thanks again for all your suggestions.
Jeff



 
mahlmann 
"9th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 1730
mahlmann
Age: 75
Loc: Las Cruces, NM
Reg: 01-20-11
11-30-19 08:35 AM - Post#2781280    
    In response to Jeff1951

That is a weird one. Good detective work and thanks for letting us know. I like mysteries with a happy ending.


Mike Ahlmann
Las Cruces, NM
'50 Tin Woodies (two) Ramon and Willard
'58 Impala Sport Coupe
'69 El Camino SS-396
'07 Ford F150 to haul parts for above
'16 Ford Explorer 3.5 EcoBoost - Red Rocket


 
Jeff1951 
Poster
Posts: 52

Age: 73
Loc: Bloomfield Township, MI
Reg: 11-12-18
12-01-19 06:38 AM - Post#2781327    
    In response to mahlmann

What I suspect is that one of the filaments was ready to break and was starting to melt and was drooping down and touched the other. In a very short time it would have broken and gone dead.
Jeff



 
RAM_51 
"3rd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 5444
RAM_51
Loc: Yakima, WA. USA
Reg: 12-28-02
12-01-19 10:14 AM - Post#2781333    
    In response to Jeff1951

When I worked in the sign industry and we were sent out to replace bulbs on a lighted sign with a mover. We would flick the bulbs with our fingers to get the broken filament to fuse back together if we could. It would save the customer a few dollars. But never heard of that happening to a car head light. Interesting.



1951 Fleetline Preservation
'51 Fleetline DeLuxe 2 DOOR SEDAN (Fathom Green)
'51 Styleline Special BUSINESS COUPE (Shadow Gray)
'53 6500 Dump Bed (Oxidized Red)
'50 Styleline DeLuxe 4 DOOR SEDAN (Mist Green)


 


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