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Username Post: Driveshaft shortening on 200 r4 conversion        (Topic#358905)
tikiwagon 
Senior Member
Posts: 464
tikiwagon
Loc: dorset, england
Reg: 04-23-04
11-22-19 11:53 AM - Post#2780763    

I got the crate 350 and 200r4 bolted into my 59 and rebuilt the driveshaft with a HD center bearing just tried to get it back into the car and it seems to be too long, Has anyone done this conversion on a 59 and if so how much do i need to remove from this, I was told the 200r4 was the same length as my stock iron powerglide but this appears to be longer, Beginning to wish i had not started this project!



 


killerkjn 
Member
Posts: 74

Loc: Edgewood, WA, usa
Reg: 12-19-02
11-22-19 01:46 PM - Post#2780772    
    In response to tikiwagon

On my cast iron powerglide to 2004r swap I had to shorten my front driveshaft 2 1/4 inches.



 
Hards..60 
Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 569
Hards..60
Loc: Northern Ontario,Canada
Reg: 10-20-07
11-23-19 05:14 AM - Post#2780807    
    In response to killerkjn

Although I didn't do an engine swap...kept my 348...I had to cut my driveshaft by 2 inches.

I heard the same thing you did, easy swap, fits right in......not but don't let that change your plans... it's worth it

Roger.

1960 Impala 2dr hard top - 348 tri















 
killerkjn 
Member
Posts: 74

Loc: Edgewood, WA, usa
Reg: 12-19-02
11-25-19 08:06 AM - Post#2780913    
    In response to Hards..60

All I can say is keep hanging in there with the swap. You will love how your car performs with the overdrive.



 
tikiwagon 
Senior Member
Posts: 464
tikiwagon
Loc: dorset, england
Reg: 04-23-04
11-26-19 02:14 PM - Post#2781015    
    In response to killerkjn

My car was originally a 235 with a stock cast iron powerglide and was told that the 200 will bolt straight in( Yes it did) and will be same length as what i had but that does not seem to be the case,IThought it might be the new front yoke being too long but i cant see it will be a minimum of 1 1/2 " long any one else done this without cutting the driveshaft?



 
killerkjn 
Member
Posts: 74

Loc: Edgewood, WA, usa
Reg: 12-19-02
11-27-19 08:46 AM - Post#2781063    
    In response to tikiwagon

The tape measure never lies. I had my cast iron powerglide and my 2004r transmission sitting side by side and the 2004r is 2 1/4 inches longer. I can not see how you can do this swap without shortening your front driveshaft. I had mine shortened balanced and new u-joints and carrier bearing installed and painted for $275 usd. Kind of costly but fit perfectly and runs out smoothly.



 
ragtp66 
Contributor
Posts: 819
ragtp66
Reg: 12-09-07
11-30-19 11:25 AM - Post#2781291    
    In response to tikiwagon

Question first
Are you lowered or plan to lower it? Static drop or air bags?

The question relates to the billet carrier bearing. The solid bearing does not have the same amount of "give" as the original style bearing which will run into an additional problem. As the suspension articulates the original carrier bearing had enough give to allow the rear shaft to move slightly forward and back as the suspension when through its arc of travel going over bumps, rr tracks, more passengers etc. The new bearing is too rigid to allow this to happen so you should have a slip yoke added to the rear driveshaft, that will correct this problem. As far as measuring for the new shaft every guy has their own way that they want you to measure so I would ASK they guy who is doing the work how they want you to measure. Some guys want the measurement from the end of the tail housing, some want it from the end of the output splines, another guy want the yoke in the trans and want the measurement from the vertical surface of the end of the yoke, the next guy from where the bearing cap seats. Then one guy will want the next measurement from the first slotted hole in the frame closest to the trans the next guy wants it where the bolt is centered in the slot.

The next detail is on regards to the front half of the driveshaft. The front shaft ujoints are NOT supposed to be installed in phase. The guy building it is probably going to argue why he thinks it should be BUUUT GM designed it to be 90* OUT of phase. If they are installed in phase you will end up with a nasty vibration. The original GM parts book even shows the ujoints out of phase. Here is an old article that talks about it. http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/engines-drivet rai...

Good Luck ---Even with all the grief you will be VERY pleased with the end result.



Toys:
1958 Impala 2dr Hardtop Under Construction
1966 Chevelle Malibu Convert M20/350 Aztec Bronze
1987 Sea Ray Pachanga 22
2002 Cadillac Escalade EXT Parts chaser
2007 Trailblazer SS -gone and missed


 
tikiwagon 
Senior Member
Posts: 464
tikiwagon
Loc: dorset, england
Reg: 04-23-04
12-03-19 12:28 AM - Post#2781414    
    In response to ragtp66

Thanks for that very comprehensive answer, It is on airbags already and i have had no problem so far with this set up, It did have a replacement stock center bearing which i did a few years ago when the car was first on the road, I thought it would be a good idea to replace it with the HD version this time round which what i got from inland empire driveline



 


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